DrCannaCanadian: MarsHydro & Seedsman, Soil & Coco, 2020

[DrCannaCanadian]

MY Growing Experiences


By DrCannaCanadian


You Gotta Know When To Fold Them - With MY Notes​

Hey 420!

In life, when you are dealt a bad hand - You gotta know when to fold them!

Note: Remember we want a MY Grow - a Maximum Yield Grow - plants tall & wide!

A while back, our soil was too "hot" and we almost lost Chewbacca & Han Solo - our two Chemdawgs.

We worked for days and we managed to save them - which is a great experience for any grower.

However, the trauma they suffered essentially stunted their growth rate to the point that they would never really be strong growers.

And here's the lesson:

We never keep a slow growing plant that is going to take up valuable resources like space and nutrients because the slow growing plant will ultimately give you a low yield and a low quality harvest!

We are much better off to cull the stunted runts, and to allow our stronger plants to use the valuable space to provide a high yield and high quality bud!

 

[GardeningGnome]

MY Growing Experiences


By DrCannaCanadian


You Gotta Know When To Fold Them - With MY Notes

Hey 420!

In life, when you are dealt a bad hand - You gotta know when to fold them!

Note: Remember we want a MY Grow - a Maximum Yield Grow - plants tall & wide!

A while back, our soil was too "hot" and we almost lost Chewbacca & Han Solo - our two Chemdawgs.

We worked for days and we managed to save them - which is a great experience for any grower.

However, the trauma they suffered essentially stunted their growth rate to the point that they would never really be strong growers.

And here's the lesson:

We never keep a slow growing plant that is going to take up valuable resources like space and nutrients because the slow growing plant will ultimately give you a low yield and a low quality harvest!

We are much better off to cull the stunted runts, and to allow our stronger plants to use the valuable space to provide a high yield and high quality bud!

Per usual; great guide!

Think the reasoning and logic will resonate with everyone and specifically with anyone that has ever dealt with a slow-growing plant.

Personally, I feel the problem with cutting down and throwing a plant is psychological. We've spent so much time, often growing it from seed, nurturing it, giving it care, food and resources, trying and trying...
And then kill it....

It's also hard because somewhere in the back of your head there is a notion of: "It will turn around. I just need to do X,Y&Z". Hope.

take up valuable resources like space and nutrients

This is what resonated most with me. I've got a smaller tent used for bloom, with only two LED's that isn't much to talk about. Any lady that goes into that space needs to show great vigor and be at their best. The light provided is only for those that will give me in turn, a great crop.


I have myself one plant that is particularly slow-growing at the moment. So I can completely relate to this post. It got beaten up bad by pest (that problem has since been addressed) during it's seeding period and has been struggling since, never recovering completely. Perhaps also a dash of bad genetics. Any fluctuation in pH, nutrients, light and it freaks out and show warning signs that it isn't doing well.
Since I'm still learning a great deal with every grow, this is a plant I will keep. Not at all to expect great crop from, but to become a valued member of the "GardeningGnome's Test Pilots". It will be kept where I have space for it, and stay in a small pot. And since it is flashing warning-signs for anything, I'll perhaps feed it a bit too low pH. And study it. And learn. How does it react? This grow I'll be using a regiment of new nutrients like Liquid Oxygen, the test-pilot might get this first and higher dose. How does that look? (With the previously mentioned problem with pest ealier in the grow, I want to use Liquid Oxygen as a secondary measurement to be extra sure I keep the plants free from the buggers.) It might get no feed at all for several days. And so forth, and so on.


Finally, it will get the knife.
Hopefully, I've learned something valuable before cutting her down.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Per usual; great guide!

Think the reasoning and logic will resonate with everyone and specifically with anyone that has ever dealt with a slow-growing plant.

Personally, I feel the problem with cutting down and throwing a plant is psychological. We've spent so much time, often growing it from seed, nurturing it, giving it care, food and resources, trying and trying...
And then kill it....

It's also hard because somewhere in the back of your head there is a notion of: "It will turn around. I just need to do X,Y&Z". Hope.



This is what resonated most with me. I've got a smaller tent used for bloom, with only two LED's that isn't much to talk about. Any lady that goes into that space needs to show great vigor and be at their best. The light provided is only for those that will give me in turn, a great crop.


I have myself one plant that is particularly slow-growing at the moment. So I can completely relate to this post. It got beaten up bad by pest (that problem has since been addressed) during it's seeding period and has been struggling since, never recovering completely. Perhaps also a dash of bad genetics. Any fluctuation in pH, nutrients, light and it freaks out and show warning signs that it isn't doing well.
Since I'm still learning a great deal with every grow, this is a plant I will keep. Not at all to expect great crop from, but to become a valued member of the "GardeningGnome's Test Pilots". It will be kept where I have space for it, and stay in a small pot. And since it is flashing warning-signs for anything, I'll perhaps feed it a bit too low pH. And study it. And learn. How does it react? This grow I'll be using a regiment of new nutrients like Liquid Oxygen, the test-pilot might get this first and higher dose. How does that look? (With the previously mentioned problem with pest ealier in the grow, I want to use Liquid Oxygen as a secondary measurement to be extra sure I keep the plants free from the buggers.) It might get no feed at all for several days. And so forth, and so on.


Finally, it will get the knife.
Hopefully, I've learned something valuable before cutting her down.

Hey @GardeningGnome ,

It's always a pleasure reading through your thoughts and ideas.

I agree, and it was difficult for me to cull those Chemdawgs, In the back of mind I did have hope they would recover. But experience says, 90% of the time they will not, and the stronger plants will benefit more.

My goals are always clear though - I am going a plant to produce high yield and high quality Canabinoids which will be a medicine to help me and my family.

And kudos to you! Your "GardeningGnome's Test Pilots" program is a fantastic idea!

I'm looking forward to chatting again soon.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


Growing Cannabis In Coco Coir Or Peat Moss​

Growing cannabis in soil alone offers good results, but soil amendments such as peat moss and coco coir can make good results great. They add structure, hold water, improve acidity, and boost microbial life.

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Growing marijuana in coco coir is a fantastic alternative cultivation style. For beginner growers and those more practised in typical hydroponics or soil substrates alike, coco coir cultivation is easy to learn. By the end of this blog, you will be fully prepped for a coco coir cannabis cultivation experiment.

WHAT IS COCO COIR?

Coco coir is the recycled and processed natural fibre from the husk of coconuts, grown mostly in India and Sri Lanka. What was once regarded as waste material, in contrast today constitutes a magnificent growing medium for cannabis plants both indoors and outdoors. With a pH of typically between 6.5-7.0, coco coir is comparable to unfertilised soil. Coco coir is available from most grow shops in 50l sacks. It's sold just like soil. But usually more readily available in tightly compressed coco bricks.

HOW TO GROW MARIJUANA IN COCO COIR

In the last few years, most soil growers have begun blending coco coir into their own homemade super soils. Even the manufacturers of most common grow shop soils recommend buffering the substrate with coco coir these days. Coco coir drains better and keeps the roots oxygenated more than standard peat-based mediums. So you already have experience cropping in soil. Why not dabble with a soil and coco coir mix before making the switch?

Most coco coir growers like to add approximately 30% perlite to the mix for best results. Although a lot of growers are also mixing clay pebbles in at a similar ratio. With equally great results. So much so, that premixed blends of coco coir and clay pebbles can be found in some online grow stores.

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If you have coco coir in brick form, make sure to purchase a high-quality brand. Every brick will be relatively uniform. When you add 4-5l of water and leave it to soak for about 30 minutes, a consistent 9-10l of medium will be produced from each brick. Simply add perlite and mix by hand in a good-sized bucket.

Low-grade coco coir bricks can sometimes be overdried. Occassionaly they can have odd sizes. Worse, some can be really tough to break down into usable growing medium. No matter how much water you add, bunk bricks won't crumble easily.

Jiffy pellets are made from coco coir. Jiffys have been popular rooting mediums with growers for decades. Cuttings and seedlings once rooted can be transplanted into virtually any other substrate. Alternatively, you can use 1l starter pots filled with coco coir mixed with 30-50% perlite and transplant to larger containers of your preferred substrate later.

HOW TO FEED CANNABIS CULTIVATED IN COCO COIR

Watering and feeding cannabis plants cultivated in coco coir is a relatively simple transition for hydroponics growers and organic growers. Generally, hydroponic fertilisers perform better than most brands' organic soil nutrients in coco coir. Specifically, coco specific nutrient ranges are worthy of consideration.

Coco coir is more forgiving than most hydroponic mediums, but not quite as an effective buffer as soil. That being said, you absolutely can hand-water cannabis plants in coco coir as one would soil cultivated marijuana. Moreover, the grower can assess when to water by picking the pots up. Light and dry just as is the case with soil. That's your cue to water.

Coco coir unlike most soils for cannabis cultivation is unfertilsed. This is where hydro growers get to transfer their skill set. A light nutrient solution must be applied just like in a hydro crop from the beginning. The pH of your water will have to be adjusted to ensure you stay at the sweet spot for coco coir, namely a pH value of 6.0. In order to accurately keep the pH and nutrient solution dialled in, you have two options.

The simple option is to purchase high quality nutrients with pH perfect blends. Alternatively you can use standard hydro equipment. A pH meter and bottles of pH-Up and pH-Down will do the job. So you can either let the wonder nutrients work their magic or dial in the old fashioned way.

Without coco specific nutrients you will pretty soon discover, that coco coir doesn’t retain calcium very readily. Dialling in the nutrient solution can be tricky for beginners. More so with a mix and match of hydro nutrients and supplements. Iron is another missing micronutrient in coco coir that growers experience deficiencies with and often never resolve, thus reducing the final harvest. Start with the coco specific nutrients and you won’t have to troubleshoot later. Especially if you are a first-time grower.

HOW TO GROW CANNABIS IN PEAT MOSS

Peat moss also makes a useful soil amendment. Also known as Sphagnum, peat moss is a genus of around 380 separate species of mosses. Peat moss works to acidify its environment by uptaking cations like magnesium and calcium, and in turn releasing hydrogen ions. By outputting hydrogen, peat moss slowly builds bog-like conditions that can reach deep into the ground. In nature, the mosses eventually form a peat bog.

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Growers need to properly prepare peat moss before adding it to a soil mix. The moss is known to be particularly resistant to absorbing water at first, and therefore needs to be well-moistened. To do so, place the desired amount into a deep tray. Spread the peat moss out across the tray and leave it exposed outdoors for several weeks. Allow dew and rainwater to soak the moss, but drain the tray as soon as the water begins to collect. If you live in a dry region, manually soak the moss before it dries out.

After several weeks have passed, add the peat moss to equal parts organic potting soil and perlite. Thoroughly mix them in a large bucket. The perlite will help to aerate the mix and keep oxygen flowing through the soil.

Peat moss will add beneficial microorganisms to the soil. Before planting, add RQS Easy Roots to enhance nutrient uptake and complement the peat moss microbes.

Taking the extra step of adding a nutrient supplement, such as the RQS Easy Combo Booster Pack, will provide your plants will all the minerals they need throughout the vegetative and flowering phases.

Once your seeds have grown into seedlings and outgrown their starter pots or plugs, transplant them into the peat moss mix.


PROS AND CONS OF COCO COIR AND PEAT MOSS

Now, let’s round up a list of advantages and disadvantages to using these substrates. Each has proven its effectiveness in specific grow setups, although they may not be effective for every operation. Use the list below to help guide you.

ADVANTAGES OF COCO COIR

LESS STRESS MORE SUCCESS

Cultivating cannabis in coco is pretty uncomplicated and just like any other grow op; once you have your system dialled in, it's plain sailing. 'Nuff said.

ROOTS

Being oxygen-rich and an excellently water-retaining medium makes coco coir a really great habitat for cannabis plants' roots. In addition, coco coir retains phosphorus very well and combined with the aforementioned attributes roots will positively thrive.

100% ECOFRIENDLY AND REUSEABLE

Coco coir is a natural product and a totally reusable. In fact, by growing ganja with coco coir you are recycling and putting to good use what would have been wasted coconut husk left to rot and pile up like trash.

LIGHT WEIGHT AND COVERT

If you want to keep your growing activities stealthy and delivery costs to a minimum, coco bricks are an elegant solution. A couple of 6 packs of coco coir bricks is feather light in comparison to lugging two 50l bags of soil home from the grow store. Also, should you choose to have coco bricks delivered, they will incur far lower delivery charges and less attention than heavy sacks of soil. Perlite to mix with the coco coir can be discreetly sourced from the local garden centre.

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LESS VULNERABLE TO INSECTS AND PLAGUES

Root rot and nasty root invading fungi and insects are far less likely to plague the coco coir grower. Coco coir is nice and sterile and so well aerated, the roots develop almost as quickly as in advanced hydroponic setups.

DISADVANTAGES OF COCO COIR

The only real disadvantage of coco coir is if you happen to mistakenly buy a low-quality brick, that may have been incorrectly processed or somehow contaminated. This is rare and if you stick with reputable high-quality coco coir brands you won’t have to worry about this kind of problem. It really comes down to grower preference which way to cultivate cannabis. If you ask us, you really can’t go wrong with coco coir.

ADVANTAGES OF PEAT MOSS

ENHANCES SOIL HEALTH

Peat moss works to cultivate a healthy community of microorganisms. Advances in the understanding of soil science have made it apparent that a diverse community of fungi and bacteria play a fundamental role in the health of the root zone. These organisms help to break down organic matter and make nutrients more available to roots. Fortunately, peat moss contains its own array of beneficial microbes.

FREE OF COMPETITION AND CONTAMINANTS

Peat moss boasts clean and resistant properties. The growing medium is void of seeds, pest insect species, and pathogens. This trait makes it a risk-free soil amendment that will keep your growing medium free of invasive weeds and damaging critters.

HELPS TO ACIDIFY THE SOIL

Soil pH is a common reason for nutrient deficiency in plants. Even if minerals are abundant in the soil, the roots won’t be able to access them if pH is outside the required range. Soil-grown cannabis thrives in a pH between 6–7. If your soil is too alkaline, peat moss will help to balance things out.

EFFECTIVE AT RETAINING WATER

Peat moss can help growers reduce their water usage. The substance is capable of holding up to 20 times its own weight in water. This makes it extremely economical, and especially useful in dry and drought-prone regions. Although damp soils can sometimes lead to mould and root rot, the aeration provided by perlite will help to counteract these threats.

CONTAINS KEY NUTRIENTS

Peat moss is a source of several nutrients that are beneficial for cannabis. One of the most prominent among them is sulphur. This essential mineral helps to form key enzymes and build proteins. Sulphur is also used in the creation of terpenes and may enhance the flavour and taste of cannabis flowers.


CONS OF PEAT MOSS

LENGTHY PREPARATION

One downside to using peat moss as a soil amendment is that it requires a rather lengthy preparation process. If you’re growing outdoors, you will need to start preparing it in early spring so it’s ready for the growing season.

CAN BE ENVIRONMENTALLY UNSUSTAINABLE

Industries commercially mine and harvest peat moss from naturally occurring peat bogs. This can sustain a substantial impact on this natural environment, which often has to be restored and repaired.

CAN LEAD TO COMPRESSED SOIL

The water-holding ability of peat moss can make it extremely damp. The surrounding soil can squash the substance together, which leads to compact soil void of air. This is a recipe for root rot and air-starved roots. However, this is only a problem when growers use peat moss in isolation—additives like perlite can help to maintain adequate aeration.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


Rookie Guide: 3 Steps to Master the Seedling Stage​

Mastering the delicate seedling stage is crucial to grow strong and healthy cannabis plants. Read this blog for further information on how to cultivate cannabis from seed to seedling.

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CONTAINER AND GROWING MEDIUM

Before germinating our cannabis seeds, we make up our mind about containers and soil, assuming most rookies prefer soil due to simplicity. At this point, we already need to differentiate between autoflowering - and feminized/regular seeds.

A. POTS FOR AUTOFLOWERING SEEDS

Growers of autoflowering varieties will get best results when they plant the seed directly into the final pot, and need to pay very close attention to seedlings for the first three weeks. Mistakes in the vegetation period of autoflowering strains have fatal consequences, meaning low yields. Depending on the strain and growing method, pot sizes ranging from 5-15 liter can be used. The size of the pot will have an influence on the size of your plants, on yields, and on the frequency you water your plants.

Tip: Airpots allow more oxygen to get to the root system and will boost vitality and final yields.

B. POTS FOR FEMINIZED SEEDS

Feminized- and regular cannabis varieties give growers the possibility do decide when the vegetation period ends, and the flowering period starts. This is why transplanting “feminized” seedlings is not such a big concern, in contrast to autoflowering strains. When a few days are lost due to stress recovery of the plant, growers simply increase the time-span of the vegetation period and compensates the loss of growth. Internet forums and grow reports can help to get you an idea what works best in terms of pot size(s) matching your setup.

C. GROWING MEDIUM

High quality organic soil that is “light” when it comes to pre-added nutrition works best.

GERMINATION TECHNIQUES

There are basically two different techniques that are commonly used to germinate cannabis seeds.

A. THE WET PAPER TOWEL METHOD

Carefully place your cannabis seeds between wet paper towels and place them in a sealable plastic container. Aim for high humidity levels inside the container, temperatures between 20-25 °C, and moist, but not overly wet paper towels. Check moisture and humidity levels regularly. Don’t completely close the container and allow some air exchange. This happens at a dark place.

B. GERMINATING SEEDS IN WATER

Simply drop your seeds into a glass of drinking water and wait 24-48 hours until seeds have cracked. Wait until you see the first few millimeters of the root, and make sure water temperatures are between 20-25 °C. Place your cup somewhere light doesn’t reach it.

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ENVIRONMENT: LIGHT, HUMIDITY AND WATERING

After seeds have germinated, it’s time to plant them into the pots. Plant the seeds just 3-5 millimeters below the surface of the earth, ideally with the tiny root facing downwards. This can help to avoid time-loss and seeds don’t have to figure out how gravity works.

A. LIGHT

It’s not necessary to use your powerful HPS or LED the first 10-14 days. CFL’s with a blue light spectrum (daylight/coolwhite) will get you very good results. Either built your own light fixture using T5/T8 sockets or buy 23-30W CFL’s with the standard European E27 lamp socket. Compare different bulbs and choose the ones with highest lumen output.

B. HUMIDITY

Aim for humidity levels of approximately 70%. Small propagators can be an option if you start in very small containers but autoflowering growers planting in final pots need to monitor, and eventually raise, the humidity inside the grow room.

C. WATERING

This is by far the most important part when growing seedlings, and cannabis in general. Don’t overwater your plants due to overly high levels of affection for your cannabis plant! The root system has no motivation to grow if it’s constantly flooded with water. You need to find your individual rhythm or cycle between wet and dry. This will come over time and your seedlings will thrive if you pay close attention to watering. Remember, less is sometimes more!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


'Entourage Effect': How Cannabinoids And Terpenes Work Together ​

Learn what is the ' Entourage Effect ' and how its proven cannabinoids and terpenes work together in harmony. How they effect the brain and medical uses.

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From a normal perspective on Cannabis buds, most will know that the bud gets frosty with trichomes and can identify that there is THC and CBD within the precious milky looking resin glands. However, when looking from the standpoint of medical research, Cannabis contains over 400 natural components and through research and development, scientists have identified over 66 as Cannabinoids.

WHAT IS THE ENTOURAGE EFFECT?

Raphael Mechoulam is a heavily decorated scientist who has done copious amounts of research in the field of Cannabis. In 1964, he became the first person to ever isolate THC by itself. There was a famous synthetic form of THC available by prescription named Marinol, used as treatment for patients who suffered chemotherapy, yet many doctors found Marinol a poor substitute for the real thing. Later research proved that all cannabinoids work simultaneously with one another in a therapeutic way, so that isolation of just THC had different effects as when grouped with other terpenes and cannabinoids.

MIXING DIFFERENT CANNABINOIDS RESULTED IN DIFFERENT EFFECTS ON THE BRAIN

During Raphael Mechoulam’s research in the 1960’s, he discovered that for THC to be totally utilised it must be grouped with the other components. The BBC actually did a programme where the TV reporter was given a dose of THC and then a dose of THC and CBD together. The results were that the isolated THC alone gave her a feeling of sadness and feeling low, however when she was given a mix of THC and CBD combined, she becomes very happy and with fits of uncontrollable laughter.

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THERAPEUTIC EFFECTS OF CANNABINOIDS AND TERPENES

The Stanley Brothers from Colorado broke the doors open for alternative medicine when they created a CBD strain for a girl named Charlotte Figi. The strain which would later be known as Charlotte's Web and the plant extract was used to prevent her extreme level of daily seizures. CBD is now being used to treat a huge list of illness and disease and to help improve the quality of everyday life. CBD is now used as treatment for MS, Crohn's Disease, Parkinson, Diabetes, nausea, spinal injury, Glaucoma, Cancer, Epilepsy, Osteoporosis, depression and many others.

MEDICAL EXAMPLES OF THE ENTOURAGE EFFECT

The spray called Sativex is a perfect example of how the entourage effect works and utilises all of the plants terpenes, as well as cannabinoids and links them together like one big chemistry chain. Sativex is made by GW Pharmaceuticals based in the UK and this is what company chairman Dr. Geoffrey Guy had to say regarding the therapeutic compounds of cannabinoids and terpenes working in harmony…

“More than a decade of experiments revealed that a whole plant extract, bred to contain roughly the same amounts of THC and CBD in addition to the other components in the plant, was more effective in reducing the pain and spasms of MS than a medication made of a single compound. It could be that multiple individual compounds play a role, or it could be due to their interaction in the body; it could also be combination of both.“

MEDICAL MASS

Medical Mass is an example of a strain that puts the entourage effect to work. As well as providing a variety of terpenes that deliver sweet and spicy flavours and aromas, the strain also offers a balanced cannabinoid profile. The flowers produce a CBD:THC ratio of 1:1, with each molecule occurring at levels of approximately 10%. Smoking or ingesting these flowers delivers a wide mix of terpenes and cannabinoids into the body, where they’ll interact and produce effects much different than strains that feature a less balanced composition of compounds. This molecular concoction produces a clear-headed high that promotes a calm state of mind whilst keeping the user motivated.

Medical Mass produces substantial yields regardless of the growing environments. Indoor plants can be expected to produce yields of 500–550g/m² and climb to heights of 60–100cm. Outdoor plants produce 500–550g per plant and grow to taller heights of 120-150cm. Medical Mass has a flowering time of approximately 7–8 weeks and outdoor plants will be ripe for harvesting during the end of September.

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TERPENES AND CANNABINOIDS COMBINED

There are 120 discovered terpene profiles discovered in Cannabis and these are the precious aromas and fragrances we associate with the plant. Terpenes are found naturally all over the world and perfume is a prime example of how terpenes are isolated and preserved. For example, if you eat a mango and then smoke Cannabis, the terpenes from the mango you have just eaten will naturally interact with the terpenes present not only in the mango but also the terpenes present in the cannabis. The result is a different high or body stone, depending on the alchemy of cannabinoids working together in your brain.

LET'S TAKE A LOOK AT SOME OF THE IDENTIFIED COMPONENTS:

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


Top Fruity Marijuana Strains ​

An introduction into what causes cannabis to taste or smell a certain way with a more in-depth look at how some cannabis strains taste and smell like fruit and a top list of 5 fruit-flavored cannabis strains.

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Cannabis plants feature a wide selection of aromas and flavours, ranging in both quality and quantity. Each cannabis strain has its distinct palette of tastes and smells. Those unique and defining characteristics are accomplished through careful and knowledgeable breeding. Getting the desired aromas in such a manner is very time-consuming.

On the other hand, there are quick ways of artificially flavoring cannabis both pre-harvest and post-harvest. The process of artificial flavoring is manageable by most growers but is unlikely to satisfy true cannabis connoisseurs and purists. Also, all the potential benefits that naturally occurring smell molecules may have, are thought not to be present in artificially flavored cannabis.

TERPENES AND TERPENOIDS

A wide range of compounds has been found in the cannabis plant. Those responsible for scent are called terpenes and terpenoids. Terpenes are a large class of aromatic hydrocarbons while terpenoids are a derivative of terpenes made by oxidation. Most terpenes are quite volatile, that is why even at room temperature cannabis can smell so strongly.

Since terpenoids are oxidized terpenes, curing cannabis changes the terpenoid composition and can largely influence the flavours of a certain strain. Improper curing is the main cause why different batches of the same cannabis strain sometimes taste different.

Studies have shown that some terpenes and terpenoids have sedative effects[1]. Some argue that these terpenoids may have merit in preventing THC caused anxiety. It is worth noting that the high is thought to be a synergistic effect of cannabinoids, terpenes, and terpenoids on the unique biochemistry of the consumer’s body; it is called the entourage effect [2].

FRUIT SCENT IN CANNABIS

Some Cannabis strains have a scent with an uncanny similarity to fruit. Those fruity scents are loved by many, and for most, round up the smoking experience to an even more pleasurable one. Strains with fruit-like scent usually offer a high that is uplifting and happy; THC caused anxiety is rarely a problem, and sometimes severe body relaxation is present inducing a so-called “couch lock”.

Most dominant terpenes found in the terpene composition of fruit-flavored cannabis are myrcene and limonene.

MYRCENE

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Myrcene is a terpene found in large quantities in mango; it is also present in cannabis. It is thought that myrcene facilitates cannabinoid uptake in the brain, therefore strengthening and lengthening the high.

Myrcene has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties, as well as being a muscle relaxant and a sedative when in high doses[3]. Strains with high doses of myrcene usually provide strong body relaxation.

LIMONENE

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Limonene is a terpene associated with citrus fruit. Citrus flavoured cannabis is considered to feature the most uplifting and happy highs while still having considerable muscle relaxing properties. Limonene has a wide variety of applications; the folk ones being weight loss and skin treatments. Limonene has been observed to help with anxiety [4]and depression[5]; it also exhibits strong anti-inflammatory properties[6].

Other than myrcene and limonene a lot of other terpenes and terpenoids are found in fruit-flavored cannabis. Some of those include undecanal, methyl-2-methylvaleratem, geraniol, valeraldehyde, terpineol-4-ol, β-Ionone and β-Ionol.

TOP 5 FRUIT-FLAVORED STRAINS

For all those that love fruit scents and flavours, we bring a top list of five of the best fruit-flavored strains. The cannabinoid and terpene profiles of those strains guarantee world class highs. Enjoy your fruit, it’s healthy.

PINEAPPLE KUSH

Pineapple Kush comes from Super Bud (ERSB). This hybrid's genetics include a variety of tropical sativas from around the world. Generations of inbreeding are responsible for the strains very pronounced flavours; sweet pineapple and tropical tastes dominate the flavour palette. The high is euphoric and happy, ideal for the couch-bound laughs with friends.

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SOMANGO XL

Somango XL is a hybrid strain from the breeders at Soma Seeds; it is a 75% indica. The parent strains include Jack Herer, Super Skunk and Big Skunk Korean. The name of the strain comes from the mango-like flavour of the strain; the flavour is enhanced by hints of flowery scents. Despite being a dominantly indica hybrid, Somango’s high is very cerebral. Somango allows creative minds to relax and enjoy a focused and productive session.

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HAZE BERRY

Haze Berry is a cross between Super Silver Haze and Blueberry; an 80% sativa hybrid with a sweet berry flavour. The strain is very potent and most often contains more than 20% THC. Haze Berry starts with an euphoric high ideal for creative individuals; later it gradually gives away to the sensation of complete relaxation.

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LEMON SHINING SILVER HAZE

Lemon Shining Silver Haze is a sativa with strong citrus aromas. It is high with THC, averaging between 15-20%. The strain is a delight for stoners with a rich and smooth smoke that goes down easily. Great daytime smoke; uplifting and energetic, makes you excited about what you are going to do next.

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FRUIT SPIRIT

Fruit Spirit is a 60% sativa-dominant hybrid bred by Royal Queen Seeds through crossing Blueberry and White Widow. The aromas of Fruit Spirit are quite complex; it is woody and peppery with a subtle blueberry theme. This strain has a talkative and creative high that creates a great atmosphere when hanging out with friends or meeting new people.

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[DrCannaCanadian]

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020


By DrCannaCanadian​

Another great walk again - and this time, to another one of my favourite stomping grounds!

We went along the trail just East of the "Tiffin Launch" on a pretty chilly day. It was about -17°C (1°F) and thankfully, there was no windchill. We put this to Pink Floyd "Wish You Were Here", and we hope you enjoy the babbling brook as much as we did!



Here's one of the big sculptures still kicking around from the Winterfest. It's huge - and stands about 3.7 meters (12' ) high and 6.0 meters (20' ) wide. They did a great job on it!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 8, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

Here's one of the big sculptures still kicking around from the Winterfest. It's huge - and...

Along the path, we can see the old train station across the road. They've recently restored it - and we can't wait until it opens - hopefully they will have some kind of nostalgic theme going on in there! What we really need is one of those really old steam engines.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 8, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

Along the path, we can see the old train station across the road. They've recently restored it...

We always see lots of dogs on our walks - and we love dogs! This is Koda - a service dog for her owner who has MS who just happens to be an advocate for medical marijuana.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 8, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

We always see lots of dogs on our walks - and we love dogs! This is Koda - a service dog for...

It's always beautiful along the trail. This is a little inlet we go into with the canoe in the summer! It is always packed full of ducks and geese that you can feed. If you decide to feed them, give them grain - not bread - too much bread is not nutritious for them.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 8, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

It's always beautiful along the trail. This is a little inlet we go into with the canoe in the...

This is a great pic I took near the babbling brook. I like how the red berries look against the sky! Come for a visit in the summer and have a BBQ picnic with your family!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 8, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

This is a great pic I took near the babbling brook. I like how the red berries look against the...

And this is looking East down the trail. In the summer it's really peaceful to sit on the bench and play my 12 string acoustic guitar!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 8, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

And this is looking East down the trail. In the summer it's really peaceful to sit on the bench...

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


When To Switch Your Cannabis Grow From Vegetative To Flowering​

When switching cannabis plants from the vegetative stage to the flowering stage, growers need to be aware of numerous considerations. Making the switch at the right time is crucial to maximising yield and avoiding complications.

​

Knowing when to flip your grow from the vegetative to the flowering stage is one of the most important factors to ensure the success of your plants. This is because making the switch too early can result in a smaller total yield. Conversely, making the switch too late can result in overgrowth, or burned buds. The decision to make the switch should be based on the careful consideration of numerous factors such as the age of the plant, the maximum height that the plant can obtain within your setup, the type of strain(s) being grown, the source of the plant (from seed or clone), and the growing method being employed.

When making the switch, growers need to be aware of all of these conditions, and of the ways in which they can affect the final product. Since each grow is unique, growers should be careful when copying the methods and techniques used by others. They may actually end up giving you dramatically different results than what you intended.

DOES PLANT AGE MATTER?

Sort of—not really. Some growers believe that plants grown from seeds must be given 60 days of maturation in the vegetative state. However, this is not necessarily true. It is important to remember that young seedlings cannot start properly flowering for 2–3 weeks. However, when growing from clones, age is not an issue. Growers can switch to the flowering stage as soon as the clone has established a solid root system.

In optimal conditions, plants should be kept in their vegetative stage for approximately 60 days. This time period should give the plant the opportunity to maximise yield and acclimatise to growing conditions. This is important because complications and mistakes are much more difficult to recover from during the flowering stage. It should be noted that this time period is just a recommendation. If maximum yield is not a priority, or if growing conditions will not permit for a lengthy vegetative stage, plants can be flowered long before the 60-day benchmark.

​

FACTOR #1: MAXIMUM PLANT HEIGHT

The most important consideration is the amount of space available for your plants. The longer that plants are kept in a vegetative state, the taller they will become. As such, vegging your plants for too long in a confined space can result in an overgrow situation. Plants that grow too high can potentially reach too close to light fixtures and suffer damage as a result. Ideally, you should never let your plants reach closer than 30cm from the lights above them. This is a rough estimate. However, growers risk burning or frying their buds if they allow them to reach any closer.

Be sure to consider the light fixtures being used in the grow. Some bulbs glow hotter than others, and this will certainly affect the minimum distance that should be kept between the plants and the lights. How long you let your plants grow in their vegetative state should also depend on the kind of strain that you are growing.

FACTOR #2: STRAINS—INDICA OR SATIVA?

The genetic differences between indica and sativa strains must be considered when making the switch to the flowering stage. That is because indicas and sativas behave differently during flowering. Indica strains are known for producing shorter, thicker, bushier plants when compared to their sativa counterparts. Typically, they will gain only 25–50% of their height in the flowering stage. By comparison, sativas are known for their height, and for their ability to keep growing taller throughout the flowering stage. They have been known to double their height from the first day of flowering until harvest.

Keep in mind that these characteristics apply to pure sativa and indica strains. Most strains will demonstrate characteristics representative of both kinds since they are not 100% indica or sativa. When dealing with hybrids, make sure to research the genetic makeup of the plant so as to have a better idea of what to expect during the grow. A basic rule of thumb for growing hybrids is to expect that the plant will grow to be twice the height it is at the end of its vegetative state.

​

FACTOR #3: CLONES OR SEEDS?

The planting method chosen for the grow will also affect the timing of the switch. The difference between growing from seeds or clones will affect the growth rate of the plant’s root system. If the plant has not established a solid root system, then there may be issues and complications during the flowering stage.

Clones can grow very tall very quickly, forcing growers to make the flip to flowering based on plant size alone. However, growers should make sure to give their clones the necessary amount of time to establish themselves before flowering. Seedlings can be flowered much earlier, but remember that they will require 2–3 weeks before being able to do so.

FACTOR #4: GROWING METHODS

Different growing methods such as the sea of green (SOG) method, the screen of green (ScrOG) method, lollipopping, and super cropping can all affect the switch. Depending on which method you choose, your flowering time will likely be different.

Sea of Green (SOG)
This method relies on flowering plants early so that they only produce one large bud. This method is usually employed with indica strains that are packed tightly together in the grow space. When using this method, plants should be flowered when they reach a height of between 15–30cm.

Screen of Green (ScrOG)
This method utilises a mesh screen that is layered horizontally above the plants. The screen is typically placed 30–60cm above the base of the plants. This allows them to grow right through it. When using this method, plants must remain in a vegetative state for several more weeks than with the SOG method.

Lollipopping
Lollipopping is a technique that involves removing the lower growth of the plant that receives very little to no light. Because plants need light to grow, these regions will produce smaller buds and drain the plant of energy that could be better spent elsewhere. By removing the lower leaves and bud sites, the plant can focus its energy on the upper colas that grow denser, thicker nugs. This method typically involves a height-based flowering switch. Sativas are usually switched when they reach 30–45cm, since they grow so much during the flowering stage. Indicas are switched when they reach a height of around 100cm, giving them more time in the vegetative state.

Super Cropping
This method is designed to produce very heavy yields from a minimal number of plants. As such, plants grown using this technique need to remain in the vegetative stage for longer. Super cropping involves bending upper branches down so as to allow more light to reach the lower parts of the plant. This keeps the height of the plant in check throughout the grow, and allows for a longer vegetative period.

​

OUTDOOR CONSIDERATIONS

Typically, outdoor growers allow their plants to flower by themselves. This usually occurs after mid-summer when days become shorter than 12 hours. Outdoor growers should take care to ensure that their plants do not receive any kind of light at night. This includes light sources such as garden lights, street lights, or spotlights.

However, outdoor plants do not necessarily need to be left to their own devices. Similarly to indoor plants, they can also be forced to flower by a change in conditions. Some climates simply do not offer plants enough time to flower before winter. Other climates may require a grower to force flowering so as to keep the plant in check. Additionally, some growers choose to force flowering in order to harvest multiple grows during the same season.

Whatever the reason, forcing outdoor plants to flower is a simple process. Outdoor growers usually force flowering by covering up their plants, reducing their exposure to sunlight as a result. Cultivators using greenhouses simply need to cover the windows of their grow room.

WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN FLOWERING

For most cannabis strains, the flowering period will last somewhere between 7 to 10 weeks. What happens during this period will vary from week to week and strain to strain. For more information about what you can expect during the flowering period, check out the week-by-week Royal Queen Seeds flowering guide.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


How To Grow Cannabis From Seed Under 12-12 Lighting​

Force flowering marijuana from seed can provide excellent quality, resinous flowers, all the while saving space, time, and money. For those with space constraints, it is a win-win!

​

Do you want to go from seed to bud quicker and cheaper? A faster, space saving and economical way to grow is the no veg, seed to flower, 12-12 light cycle method.

Growing with a 12-12 photoperiod is a solution to space and resource problems. This method eliminates the vegetation phase of growth and forces the plant to go straight into flower from a seedling. Yields are lower than that of a regularly grown cannabis plant, but results are obtained much faster, with a few advantages.

The 12-12 lighting technique makes the grow cycle 7-9 weeks in general, rather than the much longer time needed when giving plants a vegetative phase. For the space constrained, and those willing to experiment and give it ago, it can be a dream come true.

WHAT IS 12-12?

12-12 simply refers to the hours of light and darkness a cannabis plant is exposed to – 12 of each. Normally, a cannabis plant is exposed to an 18-6 light cycle. This tells the cannabis plant conditions are good for growth, and it focuses on building up size and foliage. When light cycle is changed to 12-12 (either naturally or through human intervention), it tells the cannabis the seasons are changing, and it is time to flower. By forcing a 12-12 light period from the start, the cannabis plant goes directly into flowering, in a bid to reproduce. You are essentially tricking the plant into thinking the growing season is coming to an end, so it needs to produce flowers ASAP.

METHOD

Growing 12-12 is as simple as changing the timing on your light cycles, giving your plants equal amounts of day and night right from when they sprout. The plants will look different to a cannabis plant that goes through vegetative growth. Photosensitive hormones in cannabis make the highest point the largest cola. This method all but guarantees only main bud growth on every small plant. Essentially you will be growing a cola with a few short, budded side branches – with the plant basically being a bud in itself. Be sure to stake your plants.

Everything to which you would pay attention in a normal grow remains unchanged and are still just as important. pH and water quality, nutrient mixing, pest control, grow medium conditions, EC and ppm all still play their major roles in the dankness and weight of your finished product.

Growing this way still requires all the knowledge that would be needed to flower plants with any other method, and maintenance routines still remain unchanged. After diluted nutrients, while still young, treat your plants as you would during a normal bud cycle. However, flush more often, every ten days at most, so as to avoid salt build-up in the smaller pots.

Done with expert practice and a willing strain of cannabis seeds, it is not unknown to produce 1 gram of ganja per watt of lighting. That’s an impressive 250g in 7-9 weeks for a 250W light in a small cupboard!

ADVANTAGES

• Lights have full penetration to the floor. Keep an eye on the soil wetness as lights will dry the medium quicker than if protected by a canopy
• This method is fast. 7-9 weeks on average
• Less drama trimming as there are far less sugar leaves to deal with
• Plants are easier to handle for maintenance
• Can grow in tiny areas
• Save wear and tear on moving components
• Save money

SPACE SAVING

Plants with less side branching and canopy spread need less space between them, increasing efficiency. As an example: 1x 15-litre pot produces one plant with a large volume and difficult maintenance issues in a cramped space. 4x 3.5-litre pots in the same sized space can produce just as much dried material with the benefit of being easier to rotate, so the whole plant gets 360-degree light. The entire crop is less hassle during maintenance as each plant is 100% accessible and physically easier to move about. There is no need for a separate sprouting and veg space or time wasted on 18-6 vegetation. The seeds can be sprouted under the 12-12 growing lights providing continual flowering plants.

​

RESOURCE EFFICIENT

There is a lesser demand for resources across the boards.

You will experience only half the water consumption with less moisture loss due to evaporation, and a third less nutrients are used. CO₂ and electricity use including most peripherals are reduced by a staggering 650 grow hours annually.

Taking hours to accomplish, tipping, fimming, branch control, and mainlining are now unnecessary freeing up your most precious resource, time.


CLEANLINESS

Always be sure to re-sterilize your grow space after each crop.

Keep a keen eye out for moulds and mildews as the grow space will be getting less light with more moulding opportunity in warm dark corners and creases.

​

SIDE NOTES

There are some haters of this method, but many love it. Those who hate on it often have not actually tried it. It is all about giving it a go and seeing what works for you. Even if you decide against it after trying it, it all helps expand your knowledge as a grower.

Some sativas will still stretch to 1.2 metres using this method, so species selection right at the very start is key. Indicas are the obvious choice for maximum space saving. They are generally smaller, and 12-12 will keep them very manageable. You will enjoy small pots full of colas, like a miniature stinky forest. Buds grown this way are indistinguishable from vegetated plants in flavour and effects, and at the end of the day, getting buds in the jar quicker and more often is a good thing right?

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


What To Do When Your Homegrown Cannabis Won’t Flower​

Successful breeders know that getting cannabis to bloom is a strategic process. Most bloom issues are caused by a failure to manage the light your plant receives. There are some basic step by step things to do and check if your plant is not flowering. Worst case? Only grow autoflowering varieties.

​

It is always exciting. You have set up your home-grow op. You have planted and germinated your precious seeds and the little green sprouts have finally turned into real plants.

But. Then. There. Is. No. Flowering.

We all know that without flowers, there are no buds, no payoff.

No need to panic though! It is actually a common enough phenomenon. The following is an easy-to-fix checklist of common problems that interfere with efficient bloom and bud production.

CHECK YOUR LIGHT

Cannabis is like any other plant. It needs spectrum energy to grow. When planted outdoors, cannabis follows a seasonal cycle in spring and summer. Flowering generally occurs in late summer. It is also triggered by the summer solstice (June 21st). After this date, days begin to shorten gradually. Longer nights are thought to trigger blooming. Blooming usually starts in early August.

If you are growing indoors, obviously the lighting cycle is man-made. If you are not successful in getting your plant to bloom, the first culprit is probably the light. You will need to tweak your setup to make sure that it gets the right kind and temperature of light for the right amount of time.

​

UNDERSTAND THE LIGHT SPECTRUM

Cannabis growers don’t need to be electrical engineers. That said, there are some basics to master when growing this plant. Blue spectrum light is best for vegetative growth. Red spectrum light is for flowering.

Particularly if growing indoors, investing in a red/blue spectrum LED light is one way to handle this issue. However, for those who do not want to invest in LED, merely changing the colour of the lightbulb at the right time in the grow cycle will do the trick.

Some growers leave their lights on 24/7 during the vegetative grow state. If and when the plants begin to show signs of stress, lessening the amount of light they get will help. 6 Hours of darkness is usually recommended.

Once plants get to a healthy size, growers can actually force the plant to flower by exposing it to 12 hours of red light and 12 hours of darkness. Be aware however, that even the smallest amount of off-cycle light during this process can stop the flowering process. Some people claim that a random flashlight beam can halt the process. Others feel that if lights are left on when they should not be for about a day, this should not adversely affect the growth. However, if the plants are left exposed to several days of extra light, be aware they will probably revert to a growing rather than flowering phase and you will have to coax them back.

KNOW YOUR STRAIN

Different cannabis strains mature and flower at different rates. This can to some extent be manipulated by indoor growers who match their lights to ideal growing situations for their personalised nursery. However, on top of this, it is also good to know your plant’s tendencies. Indicas will flower between 45 and 65 days. Sativa dominant strains take a little longer. They normally flower between 60 and 90 days.

​

MISCELLANEOUS

If your plant still refuses to bloom, there is a very good chance that you have the wrong type of cannabis plant. Only female plants make buds. Male plants only make pollen sacs. Because these can also pollinate your female plants, reducing yields and creating seeds, many growers discard male plants immediately.

PICK AUTOFLOWERING SEEDS

There are some types of cannabis that are known as “autoflowering” varieties. This means that they will automatically start flowering, no matter how much or what kind of light they get. This is also one of the best reasons, particularly for beginners, those on tight budgets and indoor growers, to buy seeds from an established breeder.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Eyes Wide Shut


By DrCannaCanadian


Man, 80, Arrested For Growing Cannabis For CBD Oil That’s ‘Saving His Life’



‘Is it better to be illegally alive or legally dead?’
​

I see first hand now, just how much medical cannanis is helping me with my pain. It is hard to imagine that this health-filled plant was ever made illegal - let alone being made a Class B drug!

Cannabis is classified as a Class B drug, meaning that, whilst it is a harmful substance, it is not quite as harmful as drugs with a Class A classification.

The government lied and said cannabis was harmful and even started a war on cannabis!

This guy is at risk of dying - and he gets arrested for growing medicine! He actually gets arrested for growing a plant filled with health values that was only made illegal to control minorities and hippies!

How many more people have to die before the lie is finally redacted?

It's not right that New York citizens have to go another year without legalized cannabis because New York electives can't figure out how to divvy up the tax dollars properly!

There are a lot of people who aren't going to be sent to prison for weed charges soon - and that's bad for the prison business.

And what do we do with the people who are in prison now over a plant that was made illegal based on a lie?

Man, 80, Arrested For Growing Cannabis For CBD Oil That’s ‘Saving His Life’
By Olivier Vergnault - February 7, 2020
​

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

MY Growing Experiences


By DrCannaCanadian


How To Determine When To Flip To 12-12 Using Maximum Plant Height - With MY Notes​

Hey 420!

We are going to be calculating the maximum plant height we want our Peyote WiFi to be before switching to 12-12.

Note: Remember we want to be saying MY Grow will be a Maximum Yield Grow - plants tall & wide!

Step 1: Raise Light To Top Of Tent

We begin by raising our Mars Hydro TSL 2000 light to the top of the tent.

Step 1: Raise Light To Top Of Tent

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 9, 2020
• my growing experiences when to flip to 12-12

We begin by raising our Mars Hydro TSL 2000 light to the top of the tent.

Step 2: Find Light's Sweet Spot

We want to find the sweet spot under our light.

Note: We define the sweet spot as the point under our light where the peak of the Peyote WiFi cola will be getting around 45k LUX with temperatures no higher than 25°C (77°F).

Essentially, we want the peak of the cola to have enough light to grow dense buds without being subject to light intensity burn. Also, we do want the cola too close to the light or it will burn from too much heat.

Using our LUX meter, we find the position under our light where we are reading about 45k LUX. In our case, it turns out we read 44k LUX 30 cm (12") below the light.

Step 2: Find Light's Sweet Spot

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 9, 2020
• my growing experiences when to flip to 12-12

We want to find the sweet spot under our light.

Note: We define the sweet spot as the point...

​

Step 3: Find Maximum Plant Height

When we measure from the "Top of the Soil" in our pot to the "Sweet Spot", we find that the "Maximum Plant Height" for our Peyote WiFis is going to be 120 cm (48"). Recall, that if we exceed this value we will be in an overgrow situation.

Step 2: Find Light's Sweet Spot

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 9, 2020
• my growing experiences when to flip to 12-12

We want to find the sweet spot under our light.

Note: We define the sweet spot as the point...

The most important consideration is the amount of space available for your plants. The longer that plants are kept in a vegetative state, the taller they will become. As such, vegging your plants for too long in a confined space can result in an overgrow situation. Plants that grow too high can potentially reach too close to light fixtures and suffer damage as a result. Ideally, you should never let your plants reach closer than 30 cm (12")from the lights above them. This is a rough estimate. However, growers risk burning or frying their buds if they allow them to reach any closer.

Be sure to consider the light fixtures being used in the grow. Some bulbs glow hotter than others, and this will certainly affect the minimum distance that should be kept between the plants and the lights. How long you let your plants grow in their vegetative state should also depend on the kind of strain that you are growing.


Note: We can review the article here:

When To Switch Your Cannabis Grow From Vegetative To Flowering


Step 4: Calculate Flip Plant Height

​

Knowing the growth characteristics of our strain, such as 'how much it will stretch after flipping to 12-12' is important. In our case, we are going to assume that our Peyote WiFis will double in size when we flip them to a 12-12 light schedule.

For us, this means we will flip our Peyote WiFis when they are 60 cm (24") tall - and they will double in height to 120 cm (48") .

With respect to our mascot poster in our tent, we will be flipping to 12-12 when the Peyote WiFis are just above Yoda's feet. This is shown as the solid line in the picture.

Note: We will lollipop the bottom third [10 cm (8")] of the plant 1 week before we flip to 12-12. This will allow the plant to focus its growth energy on the top two thirds [20 cm (16")] of the plant where there will be light penetration.

Step 3: Find Maximum Plant Height

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 9, 2020
• my growing experiences when to flip to 12-12

When we measure from the "Top of the Soil" in our pot to the "Sweet Spot", we find that the...

​

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


What To Do When Your Cannabis Plants Grow Too Tall
​

Everybody loves big cannabis plants, but sometimes they can get too tall. This is bad news in a restricted space or for the stealth outdoor grower. Find out how to control your overeager marijuana plants with this informative blog from Royal Queen Seeds.

​

WHEN CANNABIS GROWS TOO TALL

When marijuana is exposed to prime growing conditions, it should fulfill its genetic potential. Sometimes, this means your plants will grow too tall. This can easily happen with sativas that stretch substantially or Kush varieties that tend to have generous distances between nodes. Some species of cannabis stretch notoriously when they enter the flowering phase, even doubling their vegetative height in some cases. Although the whole idea is to get the largest of plants with the heaviest yields of mature flowers possible, depending on the situation, plants that are too tall can be inconvenient.

Often, space is limited indoors and plants that are too tall can exceed the height of the grow space. If the grow room is a multi-strain grow, raising the lights to suit the taller plants can deprive shorter plants of sufficient lighting. Outdoors, especially in stealth grows, plants that are too tall can attract unwanted attention. Controlling the height of your marijuana plants is not very difficult and can be done in a number of ways. Here are a few techniques that can keep the height of your marijuana under control.

​

THINK AHEAD

If you are well aware that the strain you are growing is going to be tall, then height control starts in the early vegetative phase. Alternatively, the size of your grow space may require height control no matter the strain. Topping or fimming when plants are young encourages a shorter, but bushier plant. Grow room space still needs to be considered, however, as you are exchanging height for floor area.

Air circulation is a priority when plants become bushier in tight quarters. Controlling the height of your crop, only to suffer from mould or fungus due to lack of circulation is definitely a no-no. Lollipopping your plants will guarantee good air circulation below the canopy, preventing pathogens from taking hold. This also has the added bonus of chunkier and weightier colas come harvest, with less unwanted popcorn buds.

​

TRAINING

LST or low stress training is the art of gently tying the branches of your plants to grow more horizontally. Either the main stem is tied down, encouraging the side branches to be dominant, after which the side branches are also tied down; or the plants are topped a number of times and the new growth is tied down in the mainlining style. LST and mainlining have the benefit of exposing more of the plant to light, therefore encouraging weightier flowers all over.

What’s great about these techniques is an even canopy instead of one main cola. The extreme of this style is ScrOGging, in which the whole plant is encouraged to grow horizontally. A screen of netting is used to hold down all new growth until the plants form a mat. Appropriately called “screen of green,” one or two plants may fill an entire grow space.

PRE-FLOWER TOPPING

Letting your plants grow untouched during the vegetative phase, then topping just prior to flowering also controls height. When your plants are about to enter the flowering stage, top all branches. This has the effect of reining in the flower stretch. The plants are urged to produce new flower growth instead of focussing energy on stretching out.

Occasionally, pre-flower topping needs to be a full pre-flower pruning. If your plants fill the grow space during the vegetative phase, there is no way there will be enough room for flowering. It is time to get drastic. Aggressively prune the plants to half their size and switch lights to the 12/12 flower cycle. Don’t worry, cannabis is very hardy and can even recover from being reduced to a stalk with only one or two leaves remaining. Try not to beat yourself up about the loss of time and reduced final yields. All lessons are good lessons on the way to becoming a weed growing expert.

​

HUMIDITY

Cannabis plants transpire a substantial amount of water. Marijuana prefers a relative humidity (RH) of 50-65%. When they get too big, humidity can become a problem as the plants constantly release water vapor into the air. Water then gathers on leaves and other surfaces in the grow room, potentially causing mould and other issues. If humidity is becoming a problem, the use of a dehumidifier or increasing exhaust fan power can help. Defoliating can also increase airflow to control humidity. Remove lower and mid-level fan leaves only. This has the added benefit of increasing light penetration to the lower flowering branches.

TEMPERATURE

As with humidity, when plants get too big, temperature in the grow-op can rise. Reduced airflow and excessive height can drive up temperature and position plants too close to grow lights. Cannabis thrives when the temperature averages 25°C. When temps exceed this, plants are more likely to stretch. High temperatures can also affect leaf and flower formations, as well as final bud flavours and potency.

​

LIGHT INTENSITY

If your plants are getting too tall or too hot and you have the room, simply raise the grow lights as high as possible. Remember, lights that are too far from the tops of your plants can also cause stretching, so make sure to achieve the ideal light positioning.

Light intensity can be adjusted as a method for controlling growth speed and height. Some grow lights have adjustable outputs. If your plants are getting unruly, reduce the intensity. If you are using more than one lamp, simply turn some off.

During the flowering phase, growth can be controlled by reducing the photoperiod - but only if your plants have been flowering for at least six weeks. Reducing leaf production and stem stretching can be achieved by reducing the “lights-on” period from 12 hours to 11 or 10 hours.

CHOOSE WISELY

Appropriate strain choice can help avoid height issues before they even arise. If you have limited space, your dreams of cultivating a classic sativa will need to remain just that, dreams. Stout indicas and hybrids or autoflowering genetics can keep heights under control. Many autoflowering strains are ideal for indoor growing as they have relatively no vegetative period. Some strains will not grow taller than 50cm, but will still provide excellent yields per m².

DON’T WORRY, BE HAPPY

With a little bit of consideration and forethought, height need not be an issue when growing marijuana. Some research into strain characteristics is the first, very important step. Then, appropriate growing techniques will make sure you get lots of yummy buds with no drama.

Happy growing!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


How to Get Clones from Your Cannabis Plants​

Although it sounds complicated, cloning a cannabis plant is a relatively straight forward process. You just need to know how. We have put together a guide covering the fundamentals.

​

Cloning means making a copy of a cannabis plant with a cut off piece (“cutting”) from the parent plant. The cutting will then grow roots on its own and will grow into an almost identical plant (“clone”) as the mother plant. Cloning is an easy, fast, and economical way for growers to make new cannabis plants.

What’s special about cloning cannabis is that the clone will have the same genetics as the parent. This means that the new plant will have identical qualities and characteristics. If you take a clone from a female, you will know for sure that the new plant will be female too. If you have a favourite cannabis plant with qualities that you like, such as a great taste, good potency or yield, you can grow dozens of free copies of this plant.

Cloning cannabis means that you can preserve your best plants almost indefinitely!

THE BEST WAY TO GET CLONES FROM YOUR MARIJUANA PLANTS

Cloning cannabis involves cutting a piece of a plant and giving it the opportunity to grow new roots from its stem. Yet, if you do some reading around on cloning cannabis on the internet, you may find different opinions on the best way to go about it. While some cloning methods may vary, some guidelines apply to all methods. To get you started with cloning right, the first piece of important advice is to always select your best and healthiest plants for cloning. Let’s look at the required steps for cannabis cloning in more detail.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO CLONE YOUR CANNABIS PLANTS

• A healthy “mother” plant where you want to take clones from
• A scalpel, razor or sharp scissors
• Starter cubes (Rockwool cubes, Rapid Rooters)
• Cloning gel or cloning powder
• Adequate “mild” light for your clones. A low wattage CFL grow light or a special light for clones and seedlings is ideal
• High-proof alcohol for disinfecting your tools
• Optional: Heating mat, mini greenhouse or humidity dome, “pH down”

HOW TO TAKE CLONES FROM YOUR CANNABIS PLANT

1. The first thing to do is assess whether your cannabis is ready to be cloned. A good indication of readiness is when branches of the plant start alternating as they grow. Watch for branches that are not growing from the same spot on the stem, like is the case with younger plants.
2. Once you have a plant that is ready for cloning, you need to clean and disinfect your tools. Know that freshly cut clones are very sensitive to bacteria, microorganisms, and dirt, making clean tools and a clean work-area is essential for cloning success.
3. Read the instructions for your rapid rooters or starter cubes. Soak the starter cubes in water for several minutes before use. Rockwool cubes normally have a rather high pH, and this is why it is recommended that you soak them in water that you brought down to a pH of 4-4.5pH.
4. Take a cutting. The best location on a plant to take a cutting is where there is new branching with a new top. You need to cut a little below this new growth at a 45-degree angle. Each cutting should be between 10-20cm long.
5. Where you take the cutting from your plant matters. You can take cuts from any plant location, but new growth in the lower half of the mother plant will grow roots faster than cuttings taken from the top. This can make them better suited for cloning.
6. As soon as you cut the cannabis clone, put it in a glass of water. This helps to prevent air bubbles from getting into the stem.
7. If there are any big leaves at the bottom of the cutting or any large fan leaves, cut those as well. If the clone has too many large leaves, it may waste energy with photosynthesis that it should now better spend on establishing new roots.
8. While some cultivars can grow clones with nothing but water, rooting helpers and cloning products with rooting hormones help the clone to establish its roots faster. Rooting helpers are available in gel or powder form. You dip the bottom of your cuttings where you made the cut instantly into the gel or powder to seal the cut off. Some use both types and dip their cuttings into the gel first and after that into the rooting powder. Read the instructions for your products so you know how to use them properly. As a guideline, cover the entire area of your cutting that you will put into the starter cube with gel.
9. Carefully place your clone into the moistened starter cube. You should slightly press the bottom of the cube to make sure that everything is tightly sealed.
10. If you have an automatic cloner, humidity dome, or mini greenhouse, place your new clones inside. This helps to keep moisture trapped around the clones. The young clones don’t have roots yet, so they need to take in moisture from the air to grow. Although not required, a humidity dome or mini greenhouse can greatly help with growing your clones.

FRESH CUTTING
from mother plant

REDUCE LEAF SURFACE
as it is hard to sustain big leafs

CLONNING GEL
apply for 2 - 3 minutes

MAKE A HOLE IN MEDIUM
COMPACT SOIL
hole must be humid when planting your clone

READY CLONE!
place your new plant in stable conditions

​

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW CLONES

Your clones should be placed in nice warm and wet conditions. If you don’t use a humidity dome, mist your clones several times a day. The perfect temperature for your clones is slightly above room temperature, 22-25 °C. If you grow in cooler conditions, you can use a heating mat to keep the temperature in-check. Some commercial cloners and propagators come with an integrated heater and adjustable heat setting.

As for the right light for your clones, they won’t require light for the first couple of days. After that period, you want to use a weak CFL bulb or special grow light for clones and seedlings to keep them growing. If you want to use your existing grow light, you may need to move it further up to decrease the light's intensity. What’s important is that you don’t supply light 24 hrs a day but keep an 18/6 light schedule for your clones. The period of darkness is where most of the root growth happens.

Your clones are ready to be transplanted when you see roots coming out the Rockwool or starter cubes.

​

SOME ADDITIONAL TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL CLONING

Remember that your new clones don’t have roots, they need moist and misty conditions. Frequently mist to keep their leaves moist especially in the first week. Watch out for mould growth. If the clones are under a humidity dome, lift the top several times a day to prevent mould from growing.

Not a requirement, but it can help your clone’s growth when you spray them with a mild nutrient solution.

Make sure to never contaminate your rooting gel or cloning powder. The slightest dust or dirt in the jar can spoil your cloning efforts. Never dip the clones directly in the jar with the gel or powder. Always take the required amount of gel or powder and put it into an external tray. Dip the clones in there. Store cloning gels and powders in a dark and cool place.

When you clone a cannabis plant, the clone will always be the same age and at the same growing stage as the parent. One of the best times to take clones is just before you flower the mother plant.

Don’t hesitate to grow more clones than you think you will need. Not all clones will always turn out a success, especially if you’re still new to cloning. It can be a good idea if you grow more just in case you should lose some.

Be patient. Most clones should start rooting in several days, but some can take several weeks until they grow roots.

You can keep desired mother plants for your clones in the vegetating phase for a long time. If you prevent them from flowering by keeping them under a vegging 18/6 light schedule, you can have mother plants that will give you clones for several years!

With our marijuana cloning guide, making clones from your favourite cannabis plants should be easy.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


Cannabis Clones And Rooting Hormones
​

Clones are the best way a home grower can keep hold of dank genetics and continue to crop a specific cannabis strain long-term. Similarly, if you plan on growing large numbers of plants, cannabis cuttings are the smart option. Rooting hormones play a key role in cloning. Find out why here.

​

Cloning is consistently inconsistent for all kinds of growers, from novices to cultivators with decades of grow room experience. Taking cuttings is hit-or-miss for a variety of reasons. Although, to be clear from the outset, the number one cause of death for cannabis clones is the cannabis cultivator. Grower error is responsible for most clone casualties.

To successfully root cannabis cuttings, the grower must be willing to experiment in order to discover the custom formula that works for them. Expect to take losses and stack up a cutting kill count before you figure it out. There is no one way to take cuttings and root them. But no matter which method you use, the biological fuel for root development are rooting hormones.

Sure, you can cut stems at a 45 degree angle with scissors, or cut finely with a razor blade, or cut precisely with a scalpel. But without a dose of rooting hormone and a new home inside a propagator, odds are, plenty of your clones are already done for.

WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO ROOT CLONES?

Ok, so you’ve decided on a clean cutting tool, invested in a propagator, and perhaps you have some cutting practice, albeit with mixed results. You have three types of rooting product to choose from; rooting hormone is available in gel, liquid, and powder form. It’s best to stick with the cannabis-specific brands. Some square gardening products work and some don’t. Why take the risk?

Using homemade rooting products or those from the garden centre is amateurish and not recommended. High-quality cannabis rooting hormones are inexpensive and will cost you less than €20. If you want a high rate of success and a process that you can repeat, you must match the right tools with the right techniques. And practice, practice, practice until you’ve got it down perfect. The best way to root clones is the way that works for you, again and again.

WHAT ARE ROOTING HORMONES?

Generally, there are five agreed plant hormones: auxins, abscisic acid, cytokinins, ethylene, and gibberellins. When it comes to rooting cannabis cuttings, it’s all about the auxins:cytokinins ratio. In ordinary decent stoner terms, auxins are root juice. The two most important natural auxins are, brace yourself for the science, indole-3-acetic acid or IAA, and IBA or indole-3-butyric acid.

HOW TO USE ROOTING HORMONE PRODUCTS

Typically, rooting hormone products are based on either IBA or a synthetic auxin like NAA (1-naphthaleneacetic acid). There are lots of really effective cannabis rooting products available, both from the grow store and online. Let’s discuss the three most commonly-used forms of rooting hormone by home growers.

CLONING POWDER

Cloning powder is favoured among commercial growers and those planning on large crops. As a powder, it has by far the longest shelf-life of any rooting product; plus, you can root a lot of clones using little powder. After you make your cut, you need to cover the tip in powder. Most growers fill a bottle cap or small cup and tap off the excess. Then, place your cutting in your medium of choice.

CLONING LIQUID

Cloning liquid is pretty versatile. Some growers like to dilute a few ml in 6.0pH water and immerse rooting mediums like coco coir, Jiffy pellets, or rockwool cubes in the solution to promote root zone development. More common is for growers to dunk a fresh cutting in a lid full of cloning liquid for 5 seconds, and then insert in the rooting medium.

CLONING GEL

Cloning gel is probably the most popular form of rooting hormone used by home growers these days. Again, to use gel, it’s more or less the same as the other two methods. You dunk your cutting into a small cup full of gel, only the gel is a gooey consistency and covers more of the cutting base and lower stem. Gel is easy to use and very effective. Dunk and pop your clone in a rooting cube.

​

HOW TO PROMOTE SEEDLING ROOT DEVELOPMENT

Some home growers will mix cloning powder with seedling potting mix to make it more auxin-rich. This is most effective with seedlings in small pots or containers. As the plants transition to vegetative growth proper, you need to transplant to a medium with fewer auxins or stem development will be stunted.

Other growers will use a light solution to assist rooting by adding a few ml of cloning liquid with watering, directly after transplant. This is in order to promote root development without building up too many auxins in the medium that will inhibit stem growth later.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS

The ideal habitat for cannabis clones is a propagator under an 18-6 light schedule. Cool white CFL, MH, or LED will do just fine. Powerful lamps are too intense and not needed. 250W is about right for any light system. Don’t be tempted to run 24 hours straight to speed things up. Clones do most of their actual rooting during the dark cycle. So stick with a conventional 18-6 cycle.

Maintaining optimal environmental conditions during propagation is critical to clone survival. Try to keep humidity 60%+ and temps at 24°C. You can occasionally mist plants with pure water if the RH gets a bit too low. Successfully rooting clones can become routine if you can control the climate and master your method.

NATURAL HOMEMADE ROOTING COMPOUNDS

There are a number of commercial rooting hormones available that promote the healthy striking of clones.

With the demand for high quality organic weed increasing all the time. It makes sense to begin the life of your plants with an organic homemade rooting compound. Here are 6 natural and homemade methods for helping cuttings develop their first shoots.

1. CINNAMON

Yes, cinnamon. Cinnamon isn’t so much a rooting compound as a natural antifungal agent that prevents pathogens from harming developing roots.

In a well prepared quality medium, cuttings will eventually develop roots without the need for rooting compounds. It can take a little longer and cinnamon will protect the young plant while it strikes roots.

1. Shake some cinnamon into a small container.
2. Dip the cutting into the cinnamon.
3. Plant as normal.

​

2. HONEY

Honey is an old school way to aid with striking cuttings. It has a number of beneficial enzymes and vitamins and is a natural antibacterial and antifungal. As with cinnamon, honey might not be considered a rooting compound as much as a protectant for emerging roots. It goes without saying that natural honey needs to be used. Be careful, many of the shelf brands contain substantial amounts of sugar syrup. Be sure the honey is pure.

1. Decant an amount of honey.
2. Dip the clone in the honey and let any excess drip away.
3. Plant as normal.

3. WILLOW WATER

Certainly the most traditional rooting compound, used by gardeners since time immemorial. Willow water has naturally occurring indolebutyric acid, which is a growth stimulant. This is why a willow branch laid on the ground will sprout roots and grow.

1. First source some willow and cut a small bunch of young branches, enough to fill 2 cups. Don’t collect fallen branches as the important compound is gone. The size and thickness of a pencil is ideal. You can also use the bark of the willow tree itself, however you will need 3 cups as the indolebutyric acid is weaker in bark.
2. Cut the branches or bark into small pieces and place in a container that can hold at least 5 litres of fluid.
3. Using a large saucepan boil 3.7 litres of water.
4. Pour the boiling water over the willow bits and leave to steep for at least 12hrs, preferably 24hrs.
5. Your rooting hormone is now ready. Strain into clean glass bottles making sure no bits get into the mix. Label and date bottles and store in the fridge. It will keep for up to 2 months.
6. When ready to make clones, decant some of the tonic into a container large enough to hold your cuttings. Let them rest for a few hours while the indolebutyric acid works it rooting magic.
7. Plant as normal.

​

4. ALOE VERA

Aloe Vera is a common succulent with many uses. A favourite for sunburns and getting rid of dark rings under the eyes. Aloe is also a handy natural rooting aid for clones, as it contains salicylic acid, which is a growth stimulant. Aloe can also be watered into mature plants to encourage healthy overall growth.

1. Break off an Aloe frond and squeeze out the sticky juice into a clean container of pure water. Give it a stir until the goo is well dissolved. Container size depends on how many cuttings are being made.
2. Make your cuttings and put them into the aloe and water mix. Leave them to soak for 24hrs. You will notice they increase their turgidity.
3. 24hrs later break off another Aloe frond and push the cut stalk into the wound. Agitate it a bit to make sure the juice gets onto the stalk. Agitation has the added benefit of mildly scoring the outer cambium where root shoots will be encouraged to develop.
4. Plant as normal.

​

5. APPLE CIDER VINEGAR

Apple cider vinegar is a useful rooting tonic for clones. It must be diluted, otherwise it can be too acidic and harm the clones whilst dropping the medium pH.

1. Dilute the apple cider vinegar with fresh. 1 teaspoon of ACV to 6 cups of water and stir well. Any stronger than this is too acidic.
2. Dip the cutting in the diluted mix.
3. Plant as normal.

​

6. ASPIRIN

Uncoated aspirin tablets can also be used to make a rooting agent. They contain salicylic acid, which is why aspirin in vase water helps cut flowers last longer. Follow the method for the willow tonic to make a rooting agent. Aspirin may not be totally organic, but is a cheap homemade solution to expensive rooting compounds.

1. Purchase uncoated aspirin tablets. There’s no need for any additives that may harm young plants.
2. Dissolve a tablet in a clean glass of water. Give it a quick stir to ensure there are no solids left over.
3. Place the cuttings in the solution and leave to sit for a few hours.
4. Plant as normal.

​

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds


Monster Cropping Cannabis: About A New Technique to Increase Yields and Efficiency​

Learning how to monster crop can be beneficial if you want continuous harvests without having to keep a mother plant. Clones from flowering plants produce branching monsters.

​

If you grow cannabis, following situation might sound familiar: There is not a single cm² in your tent(s) that is not effectively used by your plants to collect all the light possible. Some plants are in vegetation state, a few plants are in flowering, and there might be one giant mother, taking up a lot of room, energy and air.

There is a technique called “monster cropping” that can help you to grow more efficiently. When using this method, you don’t necessarily need to keep a motherplant to ensure continuous harvests. Combining this method with other forms of training, with a SCROG (Screen of Green) for example, can help to cut down on energy costs and increase yields.

WHAT IS MONSTER CROPPING?

Monster cropping is a relatively new training technique and is also known as Flowering Clones. It works from the phenomenon that clones taken from a flowering plant grow extremely bushy when they are reverted into vegetation phase. Monster cropping can also be successful when growing outdoors, or in a greenhouse.

​

Benefits of Monster Cropping

One of the main advantages of Monster cropping is that growers don’t necessarily need a mother plant to ensure continuous harvests. By simply taking clones from your plants that are already been put into flowering, you can send all of your plants into flowering phase, and then take the next generation of clones from them. This method allows you to use the space, light and air, your mother plant normally needs, for the production of delicious buds.

The second huge benefit of Monster cropping is that clones, taken from flowering plants, grow extremely bushy. They form tons of nodes and side branches.

If you already made your first experiences with growing cannabis, you might noticed the substantial difference between a plant that has very small and weak side branches, to one that produces lots of heads and branches aggressively.

Lots of side branches mean lots of buds exposed to direct light. High yields are the direct consequence of homogeneous light distribution to a high number of buds.

​

HOW TO MONSTER CROP

If you are not familiar with taking clones form cannabis plants, it’s better to do some reading about this topic before experimenting with Monster cropping. The main difference is that you take your cuttings while the plant is in flowering, and not in vegetation.

When taking cuttings or clones, it can be a good strategy to do this according to the shotgun principle, taking more clones than you actually plan on cultivating. Not all of you cuttings will root and the reverting process can sometimes fail. It’s a balancing act, between taking as many clones as possible, and leaving enough growth on the donor plant to ensure high yields.

The first new leaves produced by your clones can be deformed and weird looking. You don’t have to worry about this at all. If the clone survives and is healthy looking, it will produce normal looking leaves as soon as the reverting process is completed.

HOW TO REVERT FLOWERING CLONES INTO VEGETATION

The optimal timeframe to take your “Monster-Cuttings” is around 2-3 weeks after switching to 12/12. When you see the formation of the first buds, it’s time to take your cuttings. Place them into a glass of water for some time to ensure that no air to enters the vascular system.

Now, you simply switch back to the light cycle you prefer for vegetating your clones, meaning 18/6, 20/4, or 24/0. You don’t need a lot of light intensity at this point. CFL’s with a daylight or “cool white” light spectrum get the job done. If you remove buds of your clones at this point, they will revert into the vegetation state.

TRAINING METHODS ARE CAUSING STRESS

Monstercropping, and every other training method causes stress for the plant. This stress is on a hormonal level and can potentially be a good thing. It can induce the development of the desired growing characteristics. Most techniques are used to “train” the plant, to form a shape that uses the footprint of the individual growroom or tent most efficiently. Often it’s not just the space, effecting yields, but also the light intensity, and -distribution.

It’s important to know that plants need some time to recover from stress. Stress can be caused by poor growing conditions but also by taking cuttings or removing parts of the plants like tops, lower branches and leaves. Beware that most of these methods, including Monster cropping, are primarily used when growing regular, photoperiod cannabis strains.


If you grow autoflowering varieties, it’s best to keep the stress to the minimum. The life cycle is usually too short to give the plant enough time to recover and still finish with the desired quality and quantity. All kinds of Low Stress Training (LST), like leave tucking, Super Cropping (bending branches) or SCROG (Screen of Green) can be very beneficial when growing autoflowering strains.

Everything which causes greater stress, for example pruning techniques like Topping, Fimming or Lollypopping, can potentially cause problems with autoflowering strains. Stunted growth can be the consequence, for example. This is a debatable topic though.

COMBINE MONSTER CROPPING WITH A SCREEN OF GREEN (SCROG)

You created a heavy-branching monster. The next logical step would be to think of ways to tame your beast. The SCROG-Method, or Screen of Green, is a simple but very effective method to do that.

Combining Monster cropping with a SCROG makes perfect sense. By installing a SCROG-net at a certain distance over the canopy, one can increase horizontal growth and effectively use the heavy branching characteristics of the plants that have been Monster cropped before. The desired result is a grow space with an even canopy that makes best use out of the light provided. High yields and a superior quality product will be the consequence.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Dagobah Frost Forest
Update


Vegetation - Day 30​

Hello 420!

We just want to take a few minutes and review our long-term goals and our short-term goals.

Our primary long-term goal is to be able to grow sustainable custom medicine for our family and pets.

In order to do this, we need the following:

01) A strong pheno - high THC & low CBD
02) A strong pheno - low THC & high CBD
03) A strong pheno - high in terpenes - Myrcene & Limonene

04) A strong technical knowledge of growing & troubleshooting growing cannabis
05) A strong practical knowledge of growing & troubleshooting growing cannabis

06) The ability to grow/store pollen
07) The ability to grow/store seeds

08) A strong technical knowledge of cannabis recipes and edibles
09) A strong practical knowledge of cannabis recipes and edibles

10) The ability to custom mix: 1) high THC:low CBD and 2) low THC & high CBD for our bodies' individual and constantly changing needs.

11) The ability to create custom strains which automate number (7). I am not sure if this is possible, because I suspect our bodies needs may be constantly changing.


Well, so far, our current grow:

a) Has always been about the Seedsman Peyote WiFi strong phenos which covers (1).
b) Has always been about the Royal Queen Seeds Daily Tips & Tricks and answering FAQs which covers (4).
c) Has always been about reading 420 Magazine Grow Journals which covers (5).
d) Has always been about learning about cannabis recipes and making cannabis edibles which covers (8) & (9).

Hopefully, one of the Tangie Cookies will be a male so we can cover (6) & (7).

We will have to cover (2), (3) , (10) & (11) in our next grow.

***************

Now, on with the show!

Today, we culled Rey, our Tangie Cookies growing in soil - because she just won't be able to keep up with the coco plants.

It appears that coco grows have earned a solid place in my future grows.

We rearranged the plants to help with spacing.

The Tangie Cookies are only a week behind the Peyote WiFis, so we should see significant growth this week in the Tangie Cookies .

I noticed Seedsman had some Tangie Cookies available again, but they sure do sell out fast!!!

It will be nice to implement @Preston9mm 's drip irrigation design.

Honestly, I think he has custom built the veg/flower rooms, installed temp & humidity controls, and now installed an irrigation system.

In my opinion, @Preston9mm is certainly on track to becoming a leader in building custom grow spaces in Texas and beyond!


This week, I will put some effort into learning about YouTube End Screens.


And here we are, trying to grow high quality medicine with the help of Seedsman and Mars Hydro:

Dagobah Frost Forest - Group Photo

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 10, 2020
• mars hydro peyote wifi royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Group Photo - Veg Day 30

 

[GardeningGnome]

Dagobah Frost Forest
Update


Vegetation - Day 30​

Now, on with the show!

Today, we culled Rey, our Tangie Cookies growing in soil - because she just won't be able to keep up with the coco plants.

It appears that coco grows have earned a solid place in my future grows.

We rearranged the plants to help with spacing.

The Tangie Cookies are only a week behind the Peyote WiFis, so we should see significant growth this week in the Tangie Cookies .

Thanks for the update!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Thanks for the update!

Thanks @GardeningGnome ,

I'm trying to get practice doing videos and just log my thoughts and practices that I can look back on in the future.

I am hoping in a few weeks I'll have the basics covered so I can delve more into terpenes and breeding - plants that is lol