- Thread starter
- #61
Yeah I was an idiot... I figured the seedlings weren't even using the damn water and it was just fine. I don't get why people even start with a huge 30 gallon tub when they are that little. Now I know better.
Dro’s Top-Feed DWC Green Crack Fem & Northern Lights Auto Journal, 2019
- Thread starter Dro
- Start date
Yeah I was an idiot... I figured the seedlings weren't even using the damn water and it was just fine. I don't get why people even start with a huge 30 gallon tub when they are that little. Now I know better.
I like starting my seeds in the cloner , looking back it’s 9 out of 10 success starting with a cheap led 300w . You came here to live and learn we all have some kind of problem or we’d never as I said learn . I’ve always learn the hard way also ! You can always bet someone is coming to help in here even though some do it differently you’ll pick the one you like best then pass that along to someone else !
- Thread starter
- #63
That is definitely true! That's why I decided to do this journal, so others can learn from my own mistakes (and hopefully successes) as well as get help from all of you! There is only so much you learn from reading and studying. At the end, you gotta go through it yourself!
Thanks for the feedback. When I start new seeds I will do it in a cloner as well and then move them to 3gallon buckets then 5 eventually. Now I am just crossing fingers and staying positive these girls will come right back up!
Icemann420
Well-Known Member
With a ppm of 240 starting and not knowing what all the parts are. Is going to be a huge issue in dwc. I generally start with 2-8 ppm. Also make sure you get micro for hard water then. In my area there is a dispensary for ro water 25c a gallon. Hydroponic has to be controlled by all elements. And water is top priority. It can be done but I’d advise a water quality Analysis To give you a heads up on your ppm. Best of luck to you.
- Thread starter
- #65
Yeah, those plants will be 100% in water so you are totally right, knowing what goes in helps. I just thought hard water would be better for them but the more I think about it, it's another variable that I will keep me guessing!
Icemann420
Well-Known Member
General hydroponic sells a hard water formula. Get that if it’s your only option.
I want to give you something @Grandpa Tokin gave me when I was having water , nutrients and EC(tds)ppm problems . If you see someone else with hydro you can pass it along to them if having problems!
Attachments
I got it from @Rifleman a few years ago, who got it from someone else, etc. I love when this stuff gets passed around. Especially when it helps. I use it all the time. It works.
Most definitely works , I’ve been using this Bible since you gifted me with it! My grows will be recorded based on this Bible for Hydro Growers!I got it from @Rifleman a few years ago, who got it from someone else, etc. I love when this stuff gets passed around. Especially when it helps. I use it all the time. It works.
@Grandpa Tokin @West Hippie and anyone else using the dwc how to chart.
The notes for that chart are slightly harder to find. I **HAD** all that stuff in my Blog Posts, but @420 hasn't restored them yet.
Not to fear though, I'll just paste them below. Enjoy.
*The ideal scenario you are looking to achieve is where the EC is either dropping slightly or remaining static, with a static or slightly rising ph and a dropping water level. If you get this situation, keep doing exactly what you are doing because your plant is feeding and drinking.
Note 1. When pumping air into a nutrient solution in order to add Dissolved Oxygen, not only oxygen is present, CO2 is also pumped in. If you live near a busy road, this may be higher than normal, so you may get a dropping ph quite often. I have noticed most of the growers who suffer from a falling ph in DWC tend to live in large cities. This may not be a link but it could be. When CO2 is added to water, it makes it more acidic. This is the precise process which causes acid rain, pollution from power stations etc pouring CO2 into the air, this mixes with the water vapour in clouds causing acid rain.
Note 2. Most people assume that with a rising EC, it is the plants way of saying, I dont want more food, here, have some back. What is actually happening is this. Plants roots take in water/nutrients through a process called Osmosis. Effectively, if you think in terms of the roots having their own internal EC. The osmosis process will always try to balance out the EC's, taking from the higher side of the barrier and giving to the lower part. So if the EC of the nutrient solution is higher than the "internal EC", then food & water will flow from the solution to the roots, this is the normal process. If however, the EC of the solution is higher than the "internal EC", then the balancing will work the other way and nutrition will be leeched from the roots to the solution. A res change or increase in EC should resolve depending on the other factors such as ph and water levels.
Note 3. Nutrients flow around a well hydrated plant much more effectively and faster than one which isnt as well hydrated. How can growers use this? By feeding at lower levels, the plant needs to take on more water in order to get the nutrition it requires. So by feeding at moderate levels, this forces the plant to drink more. By drinking more, it is better hydrated, because it is better hydrated, it needs more food, making it eat more. So feed at moderate levels rather than overly aggressive levels. The method of pushing the EC until you see signs of nute burn is damaging to the plants and although many growers use this method, I am not a fan though your plants are not mine!
The notes for that chart are slightly harder to find. I **HAD** all that stuff in my Blog Posts, but @420 hasn't restored them yet.
Not to fear though, I'll just paste them below. Enjoy.
*The ideal scenario you are looking to achieve is where the EC is either dropping slightly or remaining static, with a static or slightly rising ph and a dropping water level. If you get this situation, keep doing exactly what you are doing because your plant is feeding and drinking.
Note 1. When pumping air into a nutrient solution in order to add Dissolved Oxygen, not only oxygen is present, CO2 is also pumped in. If you live near a busy road, this may be higher than normal, so you may get a dropping ph quite often. I have noticed most of the growers who suffer from a falling ph in DWC tend to live in large cities. This may not be a link but it could be. When CO2 is added to water, it makes it more acidic. This is the precise process which causes acid rain, pollution from power stations etc pouring CO2 into the air, this mixes with the water vapour in clouds causing acid rain.
Note 2. Most people assume that with a rising EC, it is the plants way of saying, I dont want more food, here, have some back. What is actually happening is this. Plants roots take in water/nutrients through a process called Osmosis. Effectively, if you think in terms of the roots having their own internal EC. The osmosis process will always try to balance out the EC's, taking from the higher side of the barrier and giving to the lower part. So if the EC of the nutrient solution is higher than the "internal EC", then food & water will flow from the solution to the roots, this is the normal process. If however, the EC of the solution is higher than the "internal EC", then the balancing will work the other way and nutrition will be leeched from the roots to the solution. A res change or increase in EC should resolve depending on the other factors such as ph and water levels.
Note 3. Nutrients flow around a well hydrated plant much more effectively and faster than one which isnt as well hydrated. How can growers use this? By feeding at lower levels, the plant needs to take on more water in order to get the nutrition it requires. So by feeding at moderate levels, this forces the plant to drink more. By drinking more, it is better hydrated, because it is better hydrated, it needs more food, making it eat more. So feed at moderate levels rather than overly aggressive levels. The method of pushing the EC until you see signs of nute burn is damaging to the plants and although many growers use this method, I am not a fan though your plants are not mine!
I just did #3 nutrients, I ran 25% nutrients through all the flower grow . Only had a Co2 saturation in the water and nutrients with help from the chart sent myself in the right direction! Then came the light burn towards the end . Thanks for the info @Rifleman @Grandpa Tokin , my new grow you’ll see Static Falling Falling in every check.@Grandpa Tokin @West Hippie and anyone else using the dwc how to chart.
The notes for that chart are slightly harder to find. I HAD all that stuff in my Blog Posts, but @420 hasn't restored them yet.
Not to fear though, I'll just paste them below. Enjoy.
*The ideal scenario you are looking to achieve is where the EC is either dropping slightly or remaining static, with a static or slightly rising ph and a dropping water level. If you get this situation, keep doing exactly what you are doing because your plant is feeding and drinking.
Note 1. When pumping air into a nutrient solution in order to add Dissolved Oxygen, not only oxygen is present, CO2 is also pumped in. If you live near a busy road, this may be higher than normal, so you may get a dropping ph quite often. I have noticed most of the growers who suffer from a falling ph in DWC tend to live in large cities. This may not be a link but it could be. When CO2 is added to water, it makes it more acidic. This is the precise process which causes acid rain, pollution from power stations etc pouring CO2 into the air, this mixes with the water vapour in clouds causing acid rain.
Note 2. Most people assume that with a rising EC, it is the plants way of saying, I dont want more food, here, have some back. What is actually happening is this. Plants roots take in water/nutrients through a process called Osmosis. Effectively, if you think in terms of the roots having their own internal EC. The osmosis process will always try to balance out the EC's, taking from the higher side of the barrier and giving to the lower part. So if the EC of the nutrient solution is higher than the "internal EC", then food & water will flow from the solution to the roots, this is the normal process. If however, the EC of the solution is higher than the "internal EC", then the balancing will work the other way and nutrition will be leeched from the roots to the solution. A res change or increase in EC should resolve depending on the other factors such as ph and water levels.
Note 3. Nutrients flow around a well hydrated plant much more effectively and faster than one which isnt as well hydrated. How can growers use this? By feeding at lower levels, the plant needs to take on more water in order to get the nutrition it requires. So by feeding at moderate levels, this forces the plant to drink more. By drinking more, it is better hydrated, because it is better hydrated, it needs more food, making it eat more. So feed at moderate levels rather than overly aggressive levels. The method of pushing the EC until you see signs of nute burn is damaging to the plants and although many growers use this method, I am not a fan though your plants are not mine!
- Thread starter
- #72
Thanks @West Hippie , @Grandpa Tokin and @Rifleman for passing this great knowledge! I really appreciate it and has encouraged me to not give up!
It has been a pretty busy week at work and home so I have not been able to do a proper update but so far the plants have been responding positively to the hydrogen peroxide "cleanse" as recommended by @Pennywise. Both photo green crack (GC) and auto northern light (NL) are growing more roots around the net pot but nothing down to the water yet but there is enough bubble splash to keep them growing. The plants are actually getting their second set of leaves and they grew vertically very quickly almost overnight!! This gives me hope. The bottom leaves still have that frown face droop but the new ones are perky.
I am still a bit concerned about the GC roots coming from almost the top of the rooter so I covered the whole thing with hydroton so the light doesn't damage those little roots. I hope these eventually make their way down.
One of the NL first set of leaves turned a bit light green with a shade of yellow as if it had some nute burn but I have not given them any nutrients over the past 2 weeks which is leading me to believe that it may be the hard water but I don't see how if it's barely splashing or nutrient deficiency. I am still researching this part.
I changed the water this morning, cleaned the buckets (good to see no slime or any other build up!) added z7, hydroguard and pH down. PPM is at 232, pH 5.52, light 24hrs. No other nutrients and waiting for third set of leaves as suggested by @Icemann420
Now the big challenge starts as I am going on family vacation for the next two weeks.... I will have one of my good buddies come next week, change the water for me and check on them daily. He has been coming everyday this week and learning my set up and what I have going. I knew this day was coming and prepared as much as I can, I just wished they would have been in a better shape before I left them
. I decided to wait to switch to RO water after vacation as I didn't want to introduce another variable.
Here is a pic update from the "tent cam" as I sit here in the airport. I was up at 3am to do the water change and all so didn't get any pics. I was more worried to get things right and go through my checklist correctly so early in the morning.
Crossing my fingers everything goes well!
It has been a pretty busy week at work and home so I have not been able to do a proper update but so far the plants have been responding positively to the hydrogen peroxide "cleanse" as recommended by @Pennywise. Both photo green crack (GC) and auto northern light (NL) are growing more roots around the net pot but nothing down to the water yet but there is enough bubble splash to keep them growing. The plants are actually getting their second set of leaves and they grew vertically very quickly almost overnight!! This gives me hope. The bottom leaves still have that frown face droop but the new ones are perky.
I am still a bit concerned about the GC roots coming from almost the top of the rooter so I covered the whole thing with hydroton so the light doesn't damage those little roots. I hope these eventually make their way down.
One of the NL first set of leaves turned a bit light green with a shade of yellow as if it had some nute burn but I have not given them any nutrients over the past 2 weeks which is leading me to believe that it may be the hard water but I don't see how if it's barely splashing or nutrient deficiency. I am still researching this part.
I changed the water this morning, cleaned the buckets (good to see no slime or any other build up!) added z7, hydroguard and pH down. PPM is at 232, pH 5.52, light 24hrs. No other nutrients and waiting for third set of leaves as suggested by @Icemann420
Now the big challenge starts as I am going on family vacation for the next two weeks.... I will have one of my good buddies come next week, change the water for me and check on them daily. He has been coming everyday this week and learning my set up and what I have going. I knew this day was coming and prepared as much as I can, I just wished they would have been in a better shape before I left them
. I decided to wait to switch to RO water after vacation as I didn't want to introduce another variable. Here is a pic update from the "tent cam" as I sit here in the airport. I was up at 3am to do the water change and all so didn't get any pics. I was more worried to get things right and go through my checklist correctly so early in the morning.
Crossing my fingers everything goes well!
Have a safe trip Dro , while they are in veg they don’t drink and uptake nutrients as much . Just have your friend send you pics you can post if they need any help we’re here !
Icemann420
Well-Known Member
Looking good so far.
- Thread starter
- #75
Thanks! @West Hippie ! That is exactly what I told him to do. I hate the fact the burple light changes the colors of the plant so it's hard to tell just by looking at the cam.
Now the hardest part for me will be no weed for the next 14 days to keep me chilled! Lol
Icemann420
Well-Known Member
Tape up those lids man.
- Thread starter
- #77
Yeah that's actually in my to do list but ran out of time this week (packing and getting things taken care at work before vacation). I actually saw a member Scoooter use reflective insulation foam like the one in the link below. I think it will help keep my water temps in check and obviously any light. Price is a bit high but I should be able to reuse them for a long time. Thanks for the tip!
SmartSHIELD -3mm 16"x50Ft Reflective Insulation roll, Foam Core Radiant Barrier, Thermal Insulation Shield, Commercial Grade (16"x50')
Take photos just after lights out and use your flash. Only way to get a real take on how they look when you run blurples.
They’re tiny little babies and you’re leaving them with a baby sitter? You should be ashamed... 
The leaf issue could just be a little water droplet or whatever and then the lights caused a blemish. Or, it could be genetic. Many reasons but they don’t appear bad to me. Hard to really tell in the lighting. I wouldn’t worry about it. Continue on with the plan; they’ll be huge when you get back. Or, the baby sitter will kill them...
LOL!
Edit: I’m just yanking your chain. Have a safe trip!
The leaf issue could just be a little water droplet or whatever and then the lights caused a blemish. Or, it could be genetic. Many reasons but they don’t appear bad to me. Hard to really tell in the lighting. I wouldn’t worry about it. Continue on with the plan; they’ll be huge when you get back. Or, the baby sitter will kill them...
LOL!Edit: I’m just yanking your chain. Have a safe trip!
- Thread starter
- #80
They’re tiny little babies and you’re leaving them with a baby sitter? You should be ashamed...
The leaf issue could just be a little water droplet or whatever and then the lights caused a blemish. Or, it could be genetic. Many reasons but they don’t appear bad to me. Hard to really tell in the lighting. I wouldn’t worry about it. Continue on with the plan; they’ll be huge when you get back. Or, the baby sitter will kill them...
Edit: I’m just yanking your chain. Have a safe trip!
Hahahah yeah I know @Grandpa Tokin! The baby sitter will more likely drink some of my beer and smoke my stash as payment!
I could have waited to start this grow after this trip but I was like a little kid in Xmas when I got my seeds so got things going before I was fully ready. It was either that or delay everything almost a month!
The leaves are getting way bigger now so I am not as concerned for that discolored one. I will get my buddy to snap some pics with no burple so we can all see.
It's driving me nuts that I can only spy on them through the cam!
