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- #21
Man thats good to hear im going Crazy here with só much information definetly good to hear advice from you guys with experience.
First grow need some help: white spot
- Thread starter rillo954
- Start date
you’ve come to the right place…
make sure that light hanger hook is in the ceiling joist not just sheetrock, and for sure I’d ditch the bungee cord and swap it out with a rope ratchet
make sure that light hanger hook is in the ceiling joist not just sheetrock, and for sure I’d ditch the bungee cord and swap it out with a rope ratchet
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- #23
Hey 013 i do have It in the ceiling joist but definetly gona ditch the bungee i looked at a few rope ratchets after a previous comment and thats no doubt the way tô do It, im trying tô get everything down as right as possible tô hopefully have a half decent harvest appreciate you taking the time for the advice.
no worries, just checking,
that’s most excellent!
I put 2 ratchets on every tie point, one is used to hold equipment, the second is a backup with 5 inches of extra slack in case the first one ever bites the bullet.
that’s most excellent!
I put 2 ratchets on every tie point, one is used to hold equipment, the second is a backup with 5 inches of extra slack in case the first one ever bites the bullet.
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- #25
Thats a hell of an Idea actually. Would you have a picture If its not tô much of a bother só I can see How you set It up id love to have a safety Net kind of thing in case something happens to one of the ratchets.
it would be my pleasure… however it’s lights out right now but can do tomoz
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- #27
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- #28
Good Morning @rillo954 I am not sure I understand your question.
What size container are you going to use?
What size is she currently in?
A couple image would make the answer easier.
Stay safe, and grow well my friend,
Tok..
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- #30
Is that that container your little one is in?
Most of us grower that grow DWC, normally start out with a cup or solo cup, and once the roots appear it is transferred into a large container.
I do something most DWC growers don't do. I use 1,2,3 and 5 gallon buckets progressively. Once, I get enough roots for a large container, I transfer to the next larger container. If this sound familiar, I adapted it from the uppot practice used when growing in soil. It saves me a lot of nutrients doing it this way.
Most of us grower that grow DWC, normally start out with a cup or solo cup, and once the roots appear it is transferred into a large container.
I do something most DWC growers don't do. I use 1,2,3 and 5 gallon buckets progressively. Once, I get enough roots for a large container, I transfer to the next larger container. If this sound familiar, I adapted it from the uppot practice used when growing in soil. It saves me a lot of nutrients doing it this way.
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- #32
Yes I was planning on using that same container since It would be Just 1 plant and its 10lts is that not a good Idea about containers I was unsure If It has to do with size or depth i read a few places mentioning the amount of water the container can hold and not só much the depth.
If you check out some of the DWC journals you will notice many different size containers. The size make a difference, but I personally do not believe shape make a difference, as long as the roots can reach the water/solution.
Hard to see so I can't say for sure just by looking at a photograph. But, there is 99% chance that is is a layer of skin that grew on the cotyledons while the seed was developing. It grows on them as a protection to help slow down the parts of the seed from drying out.
When the seed was germinating or sprouting (both words have the same basic meaning) the two cotyledons pull apart as they break through the surface of the soil. As they pull apart sometimes that layer of skin will start to pull off a bit from the cotyledon. It has never been a problem that I have noticed. By the way, it is easy to see it happeing if a gardener is growing something with larger sized seeds -- maybe something like beans. The smaller the seed the harder it is to see.
Or, figure out a way to raise and lower the plant. Put the plant on an upside down bucket while it is small and as it grows taller take the bucket out and use a smaller bucket. Or, use a series as buckets like @Tokin Roll mentions. Each time you pull the next sized larger bucket out it will lower the plant. Clean the used bucket and put it somewhere out of the way.
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- #35
Hard to see so I can't say for sure just by looking at a photograph. But, there is 99% chance that is is a layer of skin that grew on the cotyledons while the seed was developing. It grows on them as a protection to help slow down the parts of the seed from drying out.
When the seed was germinating or sprouting (both words have the same basic meaning) the two cotyledons pull apart as they break through the surface of the soil. As they pull apart sometimes that layer of skin will start to pull off from the cotyledon. It has never been a problem that I have noticed. By the way, it is easy to see if a gardener is growing something with larger sized seeds -- something like beans. The smaller the seed the harder it is to see.
Or, figure out a way to raise and lower the plant. Put the plant on an upside down bucket while it is small and as it grows taller take the bucket out and use a smaller bucket.
The only thing is that you will have to drill holes in the bottom to let water drain out.
Just my thoughts but once you drill the holes the dishpan or whatever that container is will be ruined for just about any other use. Best to get a proper plant pot of 10 or 12 liter size, or maybe even larger, with the holes already cut into the bottom.
Kind of like when someone has a 15 meter length of rope. Once they start cutting it they have pieces of rope and when they need to do something with a long piece of rope they will have to go out and buy another 15 meter length. Save the pan for when you might actually need it for something, maybe to hold water for mixing up some liquid fertilizer.
Hey Smoking Nice to meet you my friend. I was honestly in doubt How to empty the container I was thinking of buying another one and when i change the water and nutes Just placing the lid over the other container while i do work on the reservoir but honestly It would be much simpler to do as you Said tô drill a hole and Just drain It since these containers aré cheap here.
The white spot is still there bit since i actually put proper ph'd water the leaves are reacting well thanks for clarifying That it is nothing to Go crazy over.
And raising the plant instead may be a more viable solution at the moment for me actually, hydro is not cheap pockets started hurting lol.
Really appreciate all this great info.
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- #36
I was for sure in doubt about the depth If the roots would adapt tô the container and maybe grow sideways instead of straight down but I Will check out the journals you mentioned and maybe find some grow experiences using a widercontainer and a deeper one holding the same amount of water tô see If there were any major differences.Thanks again my friend
think you want to hand water her to start with… no pump just yet.
in this tent I went full overboard and put 3 hangers on each end of fixture, one rope ratchet holds up this end of fixture and other 2 are safeties, right now they have too much line slack
next one shows back side of fixture- same, same, 1 to hold the light, other 2 are safeties
the back safeties have more slack that they need, I’ll adjust later, but here the fronts straps have been tightened
in this tent I went full overboard and put 3 hangers on each end of fixture, one rope ratchet holds up this end of fixture and other 2 are safeties, right now they have too much line slack
next one shows back side of fixture- same, same, 1 to hold the light, other 2 are safeties
the back safeties have more slack that they need, I’ll adjust later, but here the fronts straps have been tightened
lifting a dwc bucket to remove or shovel stuff under it is a complete time wasting back breaking pain in the ass easily solved with a couple cheap ratchet straps.
20L or 5gal is standard size. 10L will probably not be enough room for roots. dwc gets massive root balls when done well.
hydro is easily the most expensive way to grow hands down. the gear costs more and you need twice as much as any other method. it needs more things that use more power, so it has a higher expense to run, and it needs enzyme cleaners and other additions to the nute mix not required in other media.
that reminds me .. if you are in brazil you'll need to budget for enzyme cleaners and a chiller to regulate your reservoir temps, and keep bacteria at bay. have you figured out if you are running a sterile or live res yet ?
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- #39
That is genius, and I saw your plants hats off that looks like some fire.think you want to hand water her to start with… no pump just yet.
in this tent I went full overboard and put 3 hangers on each end of fixture, one rope ratchet holds up this end of fixture and other 2 are safeties, right now they have too much line slack
next one shows back side of fixture- same, same, 1 to hold the light, other 2 are safeties
the back safeties have more slack that they need, I’ll adjust later, but here the fronts straps have been tightened
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- #40
Good Morning my friend, I actually Just found some good ropes for a great deal so thats the way im going regarding the weather I live in the south off Brazil It even Snows here só the season right now is entering fall around 20-25c Max every day which I heard is good correct me If im wrong tho.
Now you caught me with the enzyme cleaner and chiller I have something called root soldier which can either bê placed directly in the water and/or used tô clean tô keep fungus bactéria away, só far i have only used it to clean my container along with some 3%peroxide but I left the root soldier in the reservoir for 24 hours before then rinsed with distilled water and then later that day i actually put the seed and cup with the water. I was thinking of placing this at about a 1/4 strenght Just tô keep the reservoir cleaner and apparently It helps stimulate the root a bit but i wanted tô hold back on this until i start feeding.
Chiller I dont have i place the ph water in the fridge then a few hours before Im Going tô use It i take It out the fridge and measure the tempo right now its around 23 i think which o heard is not the best but still ok not sure If It is or not tho but since i changed the water tô proper ph water like you guys Said the plant is definetly a much more vibrant Green and the two First set of leaves are already visible and took shape, the seed was placed in the res on Tuesday night at 10pm.
Help me out with the sterile or live res yet because i honestly have no Idea what that means is that refering tô keeping the good bactérias or not? I was planning on changing the water and feed New nutes every week and when they get older just top off the res with ph'd water If they respond well to this method.
