Ouch. I care about those things and been at it well over a decade. Grain of salt I guess lolafter a while everyone i know who is a decent grower is the same
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Ouch. I care about those things and been at it well over a decade. Grain of salt I guess lolafter a while everyone i know who is a decent grower is the same
Not rattling your cage, but I would agree with @bluterOuch. I care about those things and been at it well over a decade. Grain of salt I guess lol
Ouch. I care about those things and been at it well over a decade. Grain of salt I guess lol
Can’t really over water coco. Maybe water to frequent. Pass 20L though it as long as it’s once a day twice if your ladies are asking for it.I have to say over watering seems to be an issue with us new folks who grow in soil or coco too………..
I have an Xtra 4” inline fan, what are your thoughts on fan on the input, and filtered attached fan output ?
Can’t really over water coco.
Light bleed keep a hole open is one issue.I'd never put a fan on an intake vent unless I had a setup in which I had to run an intake hose out, over, down, left, back around, down some more... But for a simple setup that doesn't need to draw air directly from a distant location, I have always done passive intake / active exhaust. Helps ensure that everything leaves through that exhaust, and keeps a negative pressure in the garden. If I'm not able to move an adequate amount of air that way, it'll be because I used a wimpy (or the wrong type of) exhaust fan that cannot handle the carbon filter restriction.
Heh... There is no extra fan - there is only short one tent, carbon filter, whopping great light, and plants. But the correct number of fans, ha ha ha. If budgets were merely suggestions .
With any non-soil hydroponic type media, "over watered" = "not enough air in the root zone," that's why DWC (deep water culture) works so well - the plant's root system is actually submerged in water (nutrient solution), but there is enough active aeration to ensure access to O₂. The coco allows for oxygenation. It's not going to be as good as an actively-aerated setup (at least in theory), but it's better in that regard than soil, or should be.
Light bleed keep a hole open is one issue.
negative pressure how many tents zip have broken due to that.
Also as you know what works in your house wont in mine.
Vapor pressure deficit has nothing to do with lighting. Read through the paper from Pulse - it's a good explanation.I'd say a lot of his VPD concerns would be based on the area he lives in. Whether Hot & Dry climate or Cool & Wet. Also on the type of lights he's running. I think the VPD charts are designed for HPS lighting & not so much for LED's.
I have no reason to doubt that what you're saying is true. What you and I believe or experience does not change the fact that that temperature and humidity have immediate, direct, and measurable impacts on how plants grow. Vapor Pressure Deficit gives us a number that covers a variety to combination of temperature and humidity values in which plants will tend to grow well…or not so well.If you were to look at my 2 current grows you would see I dialed everything in at 77F & 65% RH in one of the journals. Plants grew at a snails pace. I removed my AC & let temps go up in the 80's with 25% - 35% RH & the plants doubled in size in less then 2 weeks. In my other grow I didn't dial anything in right from the beginning & those plants are growing like fire. The only time I worry about VPD being kind of close is about 1/2 way through flower as I don't want too high of RH because of the possibility of WPM or Mold. I also prefer to lower my temps to about 70F the last couple weeks to increase trichome production & bring out some color. So my thought is, VPD isn't real important until the end of flower.
Been there, tried all that. Been growing for 5 years now. I had everything Automated (RH, AC, Intake & Exhaust, Humidifier & Dehumidifier, etc.) using a Saturn 4. Temps constantly at 77F & RH of 65%. My plants grew very, very slowly. With the higher temps & lower RH they grow really fast. I believe it's more the Leaf Surface Temp that matters. I think at a tent temp of 84F you get a leaf temp of 77F when using LED's. This is where the difference in HPS & LED vary when it comes to VPD as an HPS will give you a hotter leaf surface temp with a grow room of 84F at the same PAR level because they put off more heat than LED's. This is why I think the VPD charts were designed for HPS.Vapor pressure deficit has nothing to do with lighting. Read through the paper from Pulse - it's a good explanation.
I have no reason to doubt that what you're saying is true. What you and I believe or experience does not change the fact that that temperature and humidity have immediate, direct, and measurable impacts on how plants grow. Vapor Pressure Deficit gives us a number that covers a variety to combination of temperature and humidity values in which plants will tend to grow well…or not so well.
Here in the US, we have a variety of climates. The Southeast has high humidity and can hit very high temperatures. I call it "80 and 80". I don't care for that climate. Go west of the Mississippi River and RH starts to drop. We get climates like the desert southwest where temperatures are even higher but RH plummets. A simple experiment to see how temperature and humidity can impact plants would be to swap some plants between the Louisiana bayou and the desert in Arizona. Do that and you're going to have dead plants in a hurry. Take a herd of armadillos from Texas and move them to Barrow Alaska for the winter and we'll see how well they do. The undeniable truth is that, setting aside human beings, living things can only exist in a very narrow set of conditions. VPD is number that describes the the combinations of temperature and RH values under which plants will tend to grow well.
The VPD values for cannabis are 0.8 seedling stage, 1.0 in veg, and 1.2 in flower. Obviously, the cannabis grows in temperature and RH conditions other than those but that does not take away from the fact that, under those values of temperature and humidity, the plant will tend to do better than if it is not grow in those combinations of temperature and humidity.
The reason why I use VPD is that temperature and RH are two of the factors that a comprise the grow environment. The graphic that I've attached (it's a screenshot from one of the videos by Dr Bugbee) and it's a good roadmap to having a successful grow. VPD is not magic and there's no mystery to it. It's a piece of the "growing equation" and, by controlling all of the variables, you will be successful in growing whatever you're growing.
"This is why I think the VPD charts were designed for HPS." - Ok, now I understand why you're thinking that.Been there, tried all that. Been growing for 5 years now. I had everything Automated (RH, AC, Intake & Exhaust, Humidifier & Dehumidifier, etc.) using a Saturn 4. Temps constantly at 77F & RH of 65%. My plants grew very, very slowly. With the higher temps & lower RH they grow really fast. I believe it's more the Leaf Surface Temp that matters. I think at a tent temp of 84F you get a leaf temp of 77F when using LED's. This is where the difference in HPS & LED vary when it comes to VPD as an HPS will give you a hotter leaf surface temp with a grow room of 84F at the same PAR level because they put off more heat than LED's. This is why I think the VPD charts were designed for HPS.
The type of lighting that's used will directly impact temperature and temperature is a key component of VPD but light source is not in the equation used to calculate VPD.
Where light source comes in to play is that HPS tends to heat things up whereas LED's don't.
When switching from HPS to LED, growers are advised to boost ambient temps by 10° to compensate.
Leaf surface temperature is an important factor in calculating VPD, so important that you cannot calculate VPD without it which is why it's part of the discussion on the page at the link. When you look at the VPD chart, there are only two things to do - click the stage of growth and enter the leaf surface temperature offset.