N420 Grows Barney's Farm Orange Sherbert & Special Guests

[Sparkey224]

Just a quick photobomb update of the Gz. She has already come right back after the lst last night. Can already see a couple of branches that will need to be tied down again particularly on plant #1

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• N420
• Sep 2, 2019

The next morning

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• N420
• Sep 2, 2019

The next morning

This is plant #1 the 2 main branches are the highest above the canopy so will try to get them a little lower.

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• N420
• Sep 2, 2019

The next morning

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• N420
• Sep 2, 2019

The next morning

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• N420
• Sep 2, 2019

The next morning

Looking great brother. Starting to get bigger

 

[N420]

Very nicely done with the training and bounce back. Happy healthy ladies.

Thanks Hh. trying my best to keep these ladies flat and wide. Would like to keep them the same height but #1 is not cooperating lol.

 

[N420]

Looking great brother. Starting to get bigger

Hey Sparkey. They are cruising just hope they will fit in the tent in a just over a month when the flower tent will be available. Kinda wish I got another 4x4 when I got the second tent lol.

 

[N420]

Hey 420 fam. I was checking out my Os that are just 2 weeks into flower and I think I may have spider mites

Couple of pics below that I think is spider mite damage. I noticed it on 2 of the plants near the bottom of the plant.

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• N420
• Sep 3, 2019

Spider mite damage?

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• N420
• Sep 3, 2019

Spider Mite Damage?

Took a macro shot of the back of the leaf. The black dot is a spider mite I think. It moves around and looks to have 8 legs hard to tell from the picture.

20190903_210347.jpg

• N420
• Sep 3, 2019

Back of the leaf with macro lens

I can easily see the mites but your not supposed to be able to see them with the naked eye. Do you guys think it's mites or something else? If they are mites what do I do to get rid of them? I'm considering just putting them back outside cutting my losses and moving on. I would thoroughly clean the tent and bug bomb it and move the Gz in there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ProfessorFlora]

I can't quite tell from the pic but looks like some kind of mite to me. I've not had spider mites before but I've heard you can bud wash the harvested bud and remove any webbing they produce. I'll have a look around for any useful info for you N. we'll all be experts on spider mites by the end of the day

 

[ProfessorFlora]

Would it be ok to see a pic of the entire plants? A full defol followed by a preventative spray could help. How widespread is the infestation?

 

[scrogster]

White bigger dot looks like mite and smaller clear dots running down stem of leaf looks like might eggs. Nuke those f%&$@×*

 

[N420]

I can't quite tell from the pic but looks like some kind of mite to me. I've not had spider mites before but I've heard you can bud wash the harvested bud and remove any webbing they produce. I'll have a look around for any useful info for you N. we'll all be experts on spider mites by the end of the day

Thanks prof. Any info you could dig up would be very appreciated I've never really dealt with these before. Lesson learned don't bring outdoor plants into your grow tent.

 

[N420]

Would it be ok to see a pic of the entire plants? A full defol followed by a preventative spray could help. How widespread is the infestation?

20190904_063546.jpg

• N420
• Sep 4, 2019

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• N420
• Sep 4, 2019

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• N420
• Sep 4, 2019

I grabbed a few pics this morning before lights out. I can see mite damage on 5 or 6 leaves on each plant sorry I don't think the pics are very good hard to capture the damaged leaves and the whole plant in one shot. I like the idea of a leaf stripping then a spray don't think it's to wide spread. I am still considering just putting them back out side the Gz will be ready to flower in about a month.

 

[N420]

White bigger dot looks like mite and smaller clear dots running down stem of leaf looks like might eggs. Nuke those f%&$@×*

Thanks Scrogster. Any suggestions as far as sprays. I do have a Castile soap mix I've been using for thrips but I think I need something stronger to deal with these fu**ers.

 

[ProfessorFlora]

I've found some info on these pests which could be helpful. I've copy and pasted this for you....

Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.
Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.
Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.
Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.
Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.
Life Cycle
Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.
After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.
Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.
Damage
Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.
The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:

• On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
• On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
• On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.

How to Control
Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.

1. Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
2. Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
3. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
4. Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
5. BotaniGard ES is a highly effective biological insecticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains! Weekly applications can prevent insect population explosions and provide protection equal to or better than conventional chemical pesticides.
6. Mix Pure Neem Oil with Coco-Wet and apply every 3-5 days to kill pest eggs indoors and interrupt the reproductive cycle. Make sure to spray all plant parts, including the undersides of leaves. Do NOT apply when temperatures exceed 90˚F and wait at last six hours before turning lights on.
7. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
8. Insecticidal soap or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
9. On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
10. Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
11. Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.

 

[scrogster]

Thanks Scrogster. Any suggestions as far as sprays. I do have a Castile soap mix I've been using for thrips but I think I need something stronger to deal with these fu**ers.

Im at work in the field right now but I found this product called mite rid real expensive shit all organic highly consutrated stuff all organic. years ago I had them little fuckers bad did 2 applications and never seen 1 again. Im pretty sure I could only find it in Oregon and Australia. Search it up if you cant find the product when I get home later ill snap a pic of the container good stuff.

 

[N420]

I've found some info on these pests which could be helpful. I've copy and pasted this for you....

Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.
Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.
Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.
Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.
Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.
Life Cycle
Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.
After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.
Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.
Damage
Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.
The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:

• On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
• On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
• On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.

How to Control
Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.

1. Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
2. Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
3. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
4. Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
5. BotaniGard ES is a highly effective biological insecticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains! Weekly applications can prevent insect population explosions and provide protection equal to or better than conventional chemical pesticides.
6. Mix Pure Neem Oil with Coco-Wet and apply every 3-5 days to kill pest eggs indoors and interrupt the reproductive cycle. Make sure to spray all plant parts, including the undersides of leaves. Do NOT apply when temperatures exceed 90˚F and wait at last six hours before turning lights on.
7. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
8. Insecticidal soap or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
9. On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
10. Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
11. Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.

Thanks prof much appreciated.

 

[N420]

Im at work in the field right now but I found this product called mite rid real expensive shit all organic highly consutrated stuff all organic. years ago I had them little fuckers bad did 2 applications and never seen 1 again. Im pretty sure I could only find it in Oregon and Australia. Search it up if you cant find the product when I get home later ill snap a pic of the container good stuff.

That would be great Scrogster. I want to try something more natural cause I'm in flower. A picture would be great.

 

[MrSauga]

Check this link out. I believe this what Scrogster is referring to.
sustainablevillage.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=781

 

[MrSauga]

Here's a pic... I'll probably have to remove the link in a few minutes.

View media item 1708423

 

[scrogster]

Here's a pic... I'll probably have to remove the link in a few minutes.

View media item 1708423

Yes that's the shit 100% kills them 1 treatment they all was gone 2nd treatment double make sure. Never seem another since knock on wood fuck those suck lmao good luck bud.

 

[N420]

Here's a pic... I'll probably have to remove the link in a few minutes.

View media item 1708423

[QUOTE="scrogster, post: 4610385, member: 27
Yes that's the shit 100% kills them 1 treatment they all was gone 2nd treatment double make sure. Never seem another since knock on wood fuck those suck lmao good luck bud.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks Mr. S and scrogster I will look into that. I did talk to my go to guy at the grow store and he suggested just putting them back outside. I am seriously considering doing that as I just harvested the Os and have the Gz waiting in the wings.

 

[N420]

Gz Update

I was a little busy in the Garden tonight. I have bumped up the feed to 3ml per liter of seni grow a+b and am feeding B 52 @ 2ml per liter. They were handling the other feed I was giving them well with no burning so I figured it was time to give them a little more.

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

Gorilla Zkittlez Group Shot

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

Gorilla Zkittlez

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

Gorilla Zkittlez

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

Gorilla Zkittlez

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

Gorilla Zkittlez

Next up it was time for a trim! There was lots of hidden growth tips hidden under the fans so I took them off. I am experimenting with more heavy trimming in veg to see if I can create more stronger growth sites to have many tops on each plant going into flower. I also repositioned my lst ties trying to stretch them out some more and reposition some of the branches filling in holes in the structure after my first round of lst.

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

After Trim Group Shot

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

After Trim

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

After Trim

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

After Trim

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• N420
• Sep 5, 2019

After Trim

Happy growing everyone

 

[N420]

This Morning's bouce back. Happy Friday everyone!!!! Hope you all have a great weekend.

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• N420
• Sep 6, 2019

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• N420
• Sep 6, 2019

Left Side

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• N420
• Sep 6, 2019

Right Side