Not my first grow but I’m still learning and need some guidance

[Farmer Reading]

You've probably read about how to properly water by now, so you know to water around the pot instead of in the middle of the pot.

When my girls are vegging (18/6 or 14/10) they can go ten days without watering/feeding. All fairness they are watered/fed over a three day period. I use 14/10 for larger plants that are in what I call perma veg.

Once the girls are full steam in flowering give them what they want and typically go two to three days between watering/feeding.

Day one use 1/2 to 3/4 nutrients.
Day two use 3/8 to 1/2 nutrients.
Day three (actually watering) use reverse osmosis water until there is some runoff---this seems to keep everything balanced in the soil.

As a cultivator generally I just know when to water/feed the girls, but I have had a sh!t ton of practice.

Height is definitely and issue. The below clones are all but touching the light:

Clones

• Farmer Reading
• Mar 27, 2022

Look forward to watching the remainder of your grow

 

[New2this420]

Let me start by asking what exactly are you concerned about with the new growth? Color? Leaf texture? Something else? I see pretty happy, healthy plants. They call this thing 'weed' for a reason - it wants to grow almost no matter what you do to it. So, try not to over think it.

On to the questions and comments:


As others mentioned, this could be an issue. You often get weird crinkled leaves if you are overwatering. Watering on a schedule is not recommended. A better method is to water after the plant has used all of the water, and just before it begins to droop. The watering link provided by @013 above to Emilya's watering thread will explain it in some detail.

But, it doesn't look to me like it is any major watering problem. Those plants are pretty big and I would imagine the root structure is sufficient to handle the water you are throwing at it. But still, better to not be on a schedule until the plant tells you that it wants water every three days, etc.


I know some growers like to use a 24/0 light schedule, particularly for autos since they have a pretty short time frame before they go into flower and they like it to have as much light as possible before that happens. However, the plants will only be able to absorb a certain maximum amount of light in any 24 hour period, so how fast you get there depends on your lights. Any light after they have reached their max is essentially wasted.

Personally, I like to give my plants a rest period in the dark. I understand that the dark promotes root growth, and nature gives them a rest so, so do I.


Agreed.


Great link. Not everyone agrees with the wet/dry cycle, but it has proven a very effective method for those that do employ it. If you do, the link points to the thread with the advice to follow.


I see you have already done this.


This 'finger in the soil' method tells you nothing about what's going on in the bottom half of your pots and is not recommended. Follow the guide in the above link while in veg. In flower you'll want to push more water at them assuming you've built a good root structure, which I suspect you have.


With photoperiod plants (as opposed to autos) you can stay in veg indefinitely, as long as you provide enough of a light period. And it's actually the dark period that the plant is concerned with. Anything around 12 hours of darkness will cause the plant to go into flower as long as it is sexually mature enough to do so. It is sexually mature enough when it starts growing with alternating, as opposed to opposite, nodes on the plant. I suspect yours are already there.

So, the question becomes when to flip them into flower? The longest you'd want to leave them in veg is more of a height issue in an indoor grow. Indica based plants often stretch to double the height they were when you flipped them. Sativa based plants can stretch 3x or more! so you want to figure out how much height you have in your flower space, and account for the lights and the recommended distance the manufacturer suggests you keep them from the lights. Then divide that by 2 or 3 or whatever you need based upon your plants and that will allow you to max out your space without overgrowing it.

If you are already past the recommended flip height, you can do some training on the plants like LST (Low Stress Training), supercropping, topping, etc. to help you manage the plant for the space you have.


Unless you flipped it to a flowering schedule and then back to this 24/0, revegging is likely not it. And it is not a gradual decrease in light but actually the number of dark hours that is the issue.

Also, be sure that when you do flip to a flower schedule that the dark period is truly that. Dark. Any light leaks like from a seam or zipper, or from an indicator light on a power strip or appliance that the plant can see, counts. This can cause hermies or in extreme cases confuse the plant enough that it does want to return to veg (revegging).


The pistils are another indication that the plant is sexually mature, not that it is starting to flower under a 24/0 schedule unless it is an auto. Those are called pre-flowers and it is totally normal as the plant matures, even if it is still under a vegatative lighting schedule.


Revegging, or reverting the plant from flower back to veg, is very stressful on the plant and something you want to avoid without lots of experience. An example of why some growers might do it shortly after they flipped to flower mode is if they suddenly notice a bug issue or some other thing that they think they can correct quickly. But again, very hard and stressful on the plants and they throw some very weird leaves as they struggle through that period.


Agreed.


See above, but I think it is more of a height issue once the plants reach alternating node status which tells you they are ready whenever you are. The fact that they are showing pre-flowers also tells you they are ready.

So, in short, the plants look pretty good to me, and I thnk you're stressing too much on a non-issue.

You can keep any auto's in the same space as your regular photoperiod plants and they'll flower when they want to. So, I'd flip to a flowering schedule based on the photoperiods and the height you have and then when you're ready, and the autos will just go along fo the ride.

Thanks for you feedback on everything. I’m going to order the flowering nutes now, any recommendations? The plant in the pictures actually didn’t get much feedings during the veg stage because once I saw the tips I stopped the feedings but I think I was adding too much to the water when doing so and also not phing the water on top of that. I’ll let it sit in the 18:6 until I get the nutes for flowering but mean while the 3 autos I already moved them to a little tent I had for drying. I’ll get the correct measurements of that tent and the light that’s in there but I wish I knew I could of left them in the big tent I wouldn’t have done all that moving and setting up a new outlet but the autos will be under 18/6 light schedule so it’s all good. Once I hit post I will be reading on the watering journal and will let you guys know that I have read everything. Now that I’m home for the rest of the day I have the time now. I also need to look up that supply of water that was mentioned in this tread. Reverse Osmosis ? I feel like I heard it from a YouTube video aka mr grow it? Several things I need to look up that were mentioned.

 

[Azimuth]

I’m going to order the flowering nutes now, any recommendations?

A lot of growers had success in soil with some of our sponsor's products in the GSC comparative grow that happened last year. @GeoFlora Nutrients @Prescription Blend were two of the sponsor's products that showed great success. @Jon @StoneOtter @Emilya @VetSmoke85 @BakedARea and many others all used one or both of them in recent and or current grows with great success.

I also need to look up that supply of water that was mentioned in this tread. Reverse Osmosis ?

R/O water is only needed if you have really bad water like super high or low pH or lots of mineral deposits (like high calcium) in your tap water so that really depends on your current supply.

 

[New2this420]

A lot of growers had success in soil with some of our sponsor's products in the GSC comparative grow that happened last year. @GeoFlora Nutrients @Prescription Blend were two of the sponsor's products that showed great success. @Jon @StoneOtter @Emilya @VetSmoke85 @BakedARea and many others all used one or both of them in recent and or current grows with great success.


R/O water is only needed if you have really bad water like super high or low pH or lots of mineral deposits (like high calcium) in your tap water so that really depends on your current supply.

Yeah someone just mentioned to me the Geoflora nutes but I haven’t ever done dry nutes before, how beginner friendly is applying dry nutes to the top of the soil? Shouldn’t be hard right? I see Amazon has the geoflora, should I just buy that one? Im used to fox farm but im open to buy anything different. Like right now ready to buy and My second that was decent I used distilled water im just going to keep buying distill or spring water, which one? Im going to still ph and all that but im going that route so which one?

 

[LKABudMan]

I'm going to second the recommendation for @Prescription Blend - I'm just finishing up my first soil grow and the two biggest factors were learning how to water (I followed the wet-dry cycle in Emilya's link) and great nutes. The feeding schedule is very simple and I didn't need to add anything else the entire grow. I used my well water and the pH always came out right at 6.3 so I never had to measure anything; just mix and feed Check out my second grow in my signature and let me know if you have any questions. You can get it on Amazon.

BTW, don't start your flowering nutes when you switch the lights to 12/12. Wait until you start to see flowers to give the flowering nutes. Good luck and happy growing!

 

[Azimuth]

Yeah someone just mentioned to me the Geoflora nutes but I haven’t ever done dry nutes before, how beginner friendly is applying dry nutes to the top of the soil? Shouldn’t be hard right? I see Amazon has the geoflora, should I just buy that one? Im used to fox farm but im open to buy anything different. Like right now ready to buy and My second that was decent I used distilled water im just going to keep buying distill or spring water, which one? Im going to still ph and all that but im going that route so which one?

The Geoflora dry nutes are supposed to be super easy as all you do is top dress according to their schedule. But you'll get a discount if you use one of the sponsor's links.

Spring water will typically have a few extra goodies that are helpful llike minerals and things. Some nutes need to be adjusted of you're using distilled water because it doesn't have the other things.

 

[Azimuth]

I'm going to second the recommendation for @Prescription Blend - I'm just finishing up my first soil grow and the two biggest factors were learning how to water (I followed the wet-dry cycle in Emilya's link) and great nutes. The feeding schedule is very simple and I didn't need to add anything else the entire grow. I used my well water and the pH always came out right at 6.3 so I never had to measure anything; just mix and feed Check out my second grow in my signature and let me know if you have any questions. You can get it on Amazon.

BTW, don't start your flowering nutes when you switch the lights to 12/12. Wait until you start to see flowers to give the flowering nutes. Good luck and happy growing!

This is another one that has received good marks from the growers that have used them.

It all depends on how you like to grow, I suppose. Either one will should you done to a great harvest.

And great point by @LKABudMan . Use the veg nutes even after flipping to flower for the first couple of weeks or until you see pistils, then switch over the the flower nutes.

 

[New2this420]

I only looked up the geoflora nutes but I will look up the second one now. And wait to feed got it. And spring water, got it. Does anyone know the ph of spring water?

 

[HappyHazmat88]

It's neutral(7) I believe

 

[Azimuth]

The beauty of an organic grow with microbes which Geoflora provides each watering (and I think PB does as well) is that you don't have to care about pH as long as it's not crazy high or low. So, if you're going to use spring water, you don't have to care.

 

[LKABudMan]

I only looked up the geoflora nutes but I will look up the second one now. And wait to feed got it. And spring water, got it. Does anyone know the ph of spring water?

Spring water varies. Reverse osmosis and distilled water should be 7.0, but spring water will depend on the spring and what if any minerals are added. Do you know anything about your tap water?

 

[New2this420]

6.5 something the last number is jumping

 

[New2this420]

I feel like I have a shitty ph tester

 

[LKABudMan]

You're not a shitty pH tester - you just have a shitty pH meter 6.5 is close enough. Do you have a PPM/TDS meter?

 

[New2this420]

Lol thanks for that but I meant my ph meter is a shitty one but no I don’t have a ppm meter, any recommendations on a AFFORDABLE METER FOR PH AND PPM?

 

[New2this420]

The light does work though…….

 

[New2this420]

The measurements above were tap water that was sitting for long time opened. This new picture below is tap water from the bathroom that hasn’t been sitting and it started at 7. Something and counting down? I’m confused

 

[LKABudMan]

I started with the same pH meter and a cheap PPM meter. They're not exact, and you need to calibrate more often, but they're usually close enough. It also takes a couple of minutes for the pH to read correctly.

When messing with water pH I think of it as a car battery. The pH is how much the battery is charged, and the PPM is how big the battery is. If you have a small PPM (small battery), then the pH changes easily (easy to charge). If you have a big PPM (usually due to calcium carbonate) it will take a lot more pH up/down to change the pH.

Also, the more PPM you have in the water the more minerals you're starting with. If the PPM is due to calcium or magnesium you might be fine, in moderation. If it's sodium you'll want to use other water.

Can you contact your municipality and ask for a water report? I sent my well water to a lab to have it tested so I know what I'm dealing with. I was lucky to only have 100ppm, mainly calcium. My water starts at pH 8.1, but since I have low PPM i don't need to use much pH down to get it in the right range. And the @Prescription Blend always mixed to 6.3 without adding anything

 

[New2this420]

I have seen the free test your water kits at Home Depot, has anyone tried them?

 

[New2this420]

I started with the same pH meter and a cheap PPM meter. They're not exact, and you need to calibrate more often, but they're usually close enough. It also takes a couple of minutes for the pH to read correctly.

When messing with water pH I think of it as a car battery. The pH is how much the battery is charged, and the PPM is how big the battery is. If you have a small PPM (small battery), then the pH changes easily (easy to charge). If you have a big PPM (usually due to calcium carbonate) it will take a lot more pH up/down to change the pH.

Also, the more PPM you have in the water the more minerals you're starting with. If the PPM is due to calcium or magnesium you might be fine, in moderation. If it's sodium you'll want to use other water.

Can you contact your municipality and ask for a water report? I sent my well water to a lab to have it tested so I know what I'm dealing with. I was lucky to only have 100ppm, mainly calcium. My water starts at pH 8.1, but since I have low PPM i don't need to use much pH down to get it in the right range. And the @Prescription Blend always mixed to 6.3 without adding anything

Do I contact the water company that I pay every month?