20210219_141634.jpg

Imagine my surprise when I walked by the planter today as saw this little lass above ground.

Slap in the face. They do WAY better when I don't touch them. ROFL!

Lesson well learned. Touchè, Mother Nature.
 
I guess my leaves will have to rest on the ground then.

Well, the little AC/DC is overfert'd by nutrient teas. Any leaves on the ground are of no concern at this point.

No worries on this mishap. This run is to get my hands on a watering can again and relearn how to care for plants indoors again. I am well supplied in herb for a spell.
20201011_145621.jpg


I watched it happen as I applied too much nutrient tea. The tea had Alfalfa (caused clawing), Rock Phosphate (caused iron or zinc lock out + potassium lock out) and Kelp.

It is being displayed as a myriad of deficiencies. Yellowing tops (iron or zinc).
20210219_120032.jpg


Yellowing and burning edges (potassium)
20210219_120303.jpg


My Bay Area brother @Plant Daddy told me..."watch out". I didn't listen and continued to play with my rediscovered guns until 1 went off. ;)

I beat myself up a ton over it, but I believe @Bill284 jumped on and reminded me to go easy and treat it as a learning experience. Indeed, that was exaclty what I did.

This may be (will be) long winded and there is some astonishing finds i discovered on the web regarding nutrient interactions.

When I got here, everyone spoke about a "K" excess will lock out Cal and vice versa. That is interesting. As i researched issues regarding other member's issues i also ran across the info of "...a "P" excess can cause iron & zinc lock out. So this info goes along with the idea of an excess of one causes a lock out of another.

This made me consider that some act as "protagonists" and negatively affect other nutrients. Then i wondered if some nutes would aid in the absorption of others. In my searching i ran across the "Mulder's Chart".
Screenshot_2021-02-19-13-00-25-1.png


In the diagram it shows how elements can lock out each other and how a few elements can aid in the absorption of others. Far out!

This is not a fix all for every lock out due to an antagonizing interaction between elements. This does show how certain elements can assist in the absorption of other nutrients.

Here is the text from the helpful people at cannanutes...

---

Interactions between nutrients

Most growers know the importance of applying the right amount of macro- and micro-nutrients, and there are several ways of knowing whether a plant is lacking any of these elements. However, some of these deficiencies – or excesses on occasion – are not caused by a shortage of the element in question but rather by a poor combination with other nutrients, either in the potting mix, in the plant or both. In this article, we are going to look at the importance of the interaction between different nutrients and how it can affect the final crop.
By Inaki Garcia, CANNA Research

In 1953, D. Mulder published his “Les elements mineurs en culture fruitière”, one of the first studies of how different nutrients interact. The study included a graph, which is now commonly used. Over the years, other researchers have added other possible synergies and antagonisms. Clearly, studying the interactions between nutrients is essential for improving crop yield.

The relative proportions of different nutrients has a direct effect not only on plant nutrition, but also on the substratum in which the plant grows. Cations (positively charged elements) are to a greater or lesser extent retained by the negative charges in certain soil components, such as clay and organic matter. Cations include Na+, K+, Ca2+, Mg2+, NH4+ and H+ (sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium and hydrogen).

Plants absorb elements that are dissolved in water, which means that elements trapped in the soil cannot be used directly. In some cases, however, these elements can filter into the water in the substratum and thus be assimilated by the plant.

The more cations that the soil or substratum can hold, the greater its ‘Cation Exchange Capacity’ (or CEC). The proportion of cations in the soil directly influences the texture of the soil or substratum.

Interactions between nutrients

Here are some of the most important interactions between nutrients.

Nitrogen

When in the form of ammonium, NH4+, nitrogen interacts negatively with the plant’s uptake of calcium, magnesium and potassium, particularly when the NO3- (nitrate)/NH4+ (ammonium) ratio is low.

As a result, excess NH4+ can lead to a deficiency in any of these three elements. This is an important problem in hydroponic growing, which normally uses an inert growing medium with a low or zero CEC index; here the quantity of available calcium, magnesium and potassium depends solely on what is in the nutrient solution, unlike soils or substrata with high CECs which normally hold a large quantity of these elements.

There is also an antagonistic interaction between the anions Cl- and NO3- . Excess Cl- (very common in saline and/or sodic water) can reduce the plant’s absorption of NO3- .

The N/K ratio is also crucial when plants are passing from the growth (vegetative) phase to the generative (flowering or fruit-bearing) phase. The primary stimulus for a short-day or long-day plant to go from vegetative to generative is the number of consecutive hours of darkness. However, other stimuli, such as the N/K ratio, also affect these phenological states to some extent.

Fruit contains an abundance of potassium, and it is therefore essential to ensure a proper supply of potassium during generative periods. Yet regardless of how much potassium there is, if the ratio to nitrogen is too low, this can lead to a reduction in flower formation and plants with many vegetative parts (leaves and branches) and few generative parts (flowers and fruit).

Potassium

It is essential to get the proportion of potassium right, since it interacts both in the soil and in the plant with phosphorus, sodium, calcium and magnesium.

In clay soils with a high CEC, when the plants are irrigated with fertilizer solutions in which the potassium is dissolved in its ionic form, some of the potassium is adsorbed by the mineral and humic parts of the soil.

If you irrigate with a low-potassium solution, the potassium held in the soil is released for uptake by the plant. This exchangeable potassium and the solution are known as available potassium. As its name suggests, it is this kind that the plant absorbs most readily.

However, the potassium also comes in non-exchangeable forms which are strongly fixed to the soil components. In this case, it is not directly available to the plant and only enters into the solution when levels of exchangeable potassium are very low. The problem of using this potassium is that it takes a long time to go from its fixed state to the interchangeable state, which means that it is not readily absorbed by the plant.

Applying too much calcium and magnesium can cause a potassium deficiency; the K/Ca and K/Mg ratio should always be kept above 2 (but below 10, since too much K can hinder the absorption of calcium and magnesium). Too much potassium can also prevent the absorption of certain micro-elements, such as zinc. It is particularly important to take account of this interaction when using very hard water with a high calcium and magnesium content.

Phosphorus

An excess of phosphorus interacts negatively with the majority of micro-elements (Fe, Mn, Zn and Cu). In some cases, this is due to the formation of insoluble precipitates and in other cases, to metabolic processes in the plant which prevent the transfer of the nutrient from the root to other parts of the plant. This is the case, for example, with the P/Zn interaction. The P/Fe interaction appears to be negatively regulated at the cellular level and by the formation of insoluble complexes. The P/Cu interaction normally involves the formation of precipitates in the root area.

Genetic interactions can vary from one species to another and even between different varieties of the same species. For example, in some species a positive effect has been observed between the amount of available phosphorus and the plant’s resistance to salinity, meaning that an increase in this element leads to greater resistance. Other studies, however, conclude that the effect is negative.

There have also been reports of a reduction in the availability of sulfur and calcium when large quantities of phosphate are applied. In the case of calcium, this is caused by the formation of insoluble phosphates.

In contrast, phosphorus favors the absorption of magnesium, so a shortage of phosphorus could also lead to a magnesium deficiency if the latter is present in small quantities.

Both NO3- and NH4+ facilitate the absorption of phosphorus. In the case of NH4+, the reason appears to be the excretion of H+ ions by the plant when nitrogen is administered in this form in significant quantities. These H+ ions cause a slight acidification of the root area, which can favor the solubility of some phosphorus salts which would otherwise be trapped or remain in an insoluble form.

Interactions between nutrients
Root nodule. Colored Scanning Electron Micrograph (SEM) of a root nodule on a pea plant (Pisum sativum) caused by the nitrogen-fixing soil bacteria Rhizobium leguminosarum. The plant and the bacteria have a symbiotic relationship. The bacteria convert (‘fixes’) atmospheric nitrogen in the soil to ammonia. The plant cannot carry out this process itself, but it is vital for the production of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. In return, the plant passes carbohydrates produced during photosynthesis to the bacteria for use as an energy source. The bacteria enter the plant through its root hairs, where an infection thread leads it to the nodule.

Magnesium

It is also important to take account of the Ca/Mg ratio. Its most important effect is its influence on the soil structure. Calcium in the soil tends to improve aeration, while Mg favors the adhesion of soil particles. Thus, if the Ca/Mg ratio is very low, which means that much of the exchange complex will be occupied by these Mg ions, the soil becomes less permeable, harming the development of the crops. Because of this, the Ca/Mg ratio should always be kept above 1.

This ratio is also important for the mineral balance within the plant. The Ca/Mg ratio in the leaves of some plants is about 2:1, which means that it is necessary to apply greater quantities of calcium than magnesium via the nutrient solution.

Magnesium uptake is also influenced by Zn and Mn levels in the growing medium; an overdose of these micro- elements, as well as being toxic, could also reduce the plant’s absorption.

Interaction of Sodium with Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium
Sodium has a negative effect on most plants due to its toxicity, when it accumulates in certain tissues of the plant, and its capacity to harm the soil structure by competing with other cations for adsorption (the adhesion of the cation to the surface of some soil components). When a soil contains a level of sodium that might prove harmful to crops, it is said to be sodic. Soil sodicity should not be confused with soil salinity, which refers to the total quantity of salts in the soil, without specifying which salts are more prevalent.

There are two ways of determining where there is a risk of harm from excess sodium. One is by calculating the ratio between the sodium and other dissolved cations that will be absorbed by the plant. This is known as the sodium adsorption ratio or SAR. The formula is as follows:

Interactions between nutrients

Irrigation water with a SAR over 18 is considered as having a high sodium content.

Another way is by calculating what proportion of sodium cations is retained in the exchange complex, as compared to others. This is known as the exchangeable sodium percentage (ESP).

ESP = 100 x Na / CEC
A soil is considered sodic if it has an ESP of over 15%.

Finally, the ratio between calcium, magnesium and sodium can be altered by the presence of carbonates and bicarbonates. In other words, even if there is initially more Ca and Mg than Na – in principle a good ratio for avoiding problems – if you irrigate with very hard water containing large quantities of carbonates and bicarbonates, they can make the calcium and magnesium precipitate in the form of insoluble carbonates, tipping the scales in favor of sodium and increasing the SAR.

This is known as the residual sodium carbonate (RSC) index. The formula is as follows:

RSC=(CO3-+HCO3-)-(Ca+2+Mg+2)
Tap water with values over 2.5 should not be used, as it can cause problems.

---

This is amazing stuff. Some people use hydro nutes that are mainly nitrates and if an excess happens, a simple leeching or a flush of the media can aid in the removal of the excess.

As an organic gardener, flushing is not always possible as the nutes can be locked up in the soil and not easily precipatated out. This little article illuminates as few options for organic growers to address a lock out.

In the meantime, the article states flushing the media with "hard water" to precipitate the calcium. I don't have hard water. I did go looking and found how to make hard water. It requires the use of calcium chloride (substitute = Alum) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). I am not about to add more calcium amd screw with the pH just yet.

Again, the AC/DC is a touch ill but it is only a learning moment given the info I have gleaned that otherwise would have gone unseen.

At this point I am foliar feeding kelp twice weekly in hopes of bypassing the root issue and get some nutes to her.

If she does go south, I will take that opportunity to usher in the grow move to the out building. This stuff presently happens in the back bedroom. As our baby get bigger, that room is needed ASAP.

As much as I want this to be a journal of successes, it is a journal of my grow education. If I knew it all, I would be pompous.
I'm sorry patient I can't read that all right now but I saved in my quotes for later
What I did get to was interesting. Keep smiling my friend.
 
I am well supplied in herb for a spell.
Wow, what a beautiful sight all that lovely bud drying like that - looks great! :hookah:

Some good stuff that you've researched on nutrient requirements, altho it kinda does my head trying to take it in. Which is why I am pleased to just be growing organically, I never use a pH meter and if worms are still alive in my containers a year later then I feel it points to the soil being good.
 
Mate im glad you take the time to write this all out , this is why i voted your journal , you put a heap of work into things ,
You explain what i like to do , i cant explain because i haven't the brains lol

silly question , do you ever ph your teas ?, i couldn't read it all ive seen them as low as 4.5 and i never checked one and my plant turned horrible in days ,
 
I cheat i use a water soluble potassium sulphate , a water soluble cal/mag water soluble kelp, all gets it into the plant without causing problems , but i only use mostly late flower when i need the extra (k) cal/mag sulphate and kelp for micro , don't always need it but knowing I'm getting it into the plant helps , its all organic so its not really cheating lol
 
Nah, I do not have a pH pen. That would be a wonderful recommendation. Hmm...for teas?

You did say you have seen a plant go south...I need to listen. That will be a new addition on my prospective acquisitions list. That would be an advantageous purchase and all around good tool to have.
 
I added some info today , i try to run a neutral tea, well between 6.8 7.5 then i use last years ferments to bring my ph down and some juice ferments .
Once i didn't check the ph that i brewed and my plant looked like a cat pissed all over it lol almost instant death , so i have to be more careful what i add to the teas now as the real acidic brews can burn roots overnight ,

If you understand this , i added pics today so it will give you an idea .
 
I guess my leaves will have to rest on the ground then.

Well, the little AC/DC is overfert'd by nutrient teas. Any leaves on the ground are of no concern at this point.

No worries on this mishap. This run is to get my hands on a watering can again and relearn how to care for plants indoors again. I am well supplied in herb for a spell.
20201011_145621.jpg


I watched it happen as I applied too much nutrient tea. The tea had Alfalfa (caused clawing), Rock Phosphate (caused iron or zinc lock out + potassium lock out) and Kelp.

It is being displayed as a myriad of deficiencies. Yellowing tops (iron or zinc).
20210219_120032.jpg


Yellowing and burning edges (potassium)
20210219_120303.jpg


My Bay Area brother @Plant Daddy told me..."watch out". I didn't listen and continued to play with my rediscovered guns until 1 went off. ;)

I beat myself up a ton over it, but I believe @Bill284 jumped on and reminded me to go easy and treat it as a learning experience. Indeed, that was exaclty what I did.

This may be (will be) long winded and there is some astonishing finds i discovered on the web regarding nutrient interactions.

When I got here, everyone spoke about a "K" excess will lock out Cal and vice versa. That is interesting. As i researched issues regarding other member's issues i also ran across the info of "...a "P" excess can cause iron & zinc lock out. So this info goes along with the idea of an excess of one causes a lock out of another.

This made me consider that some act as "protagonists" and negatively affect other nutrients. Then i wondered if some nutes would aid in the absorption of others. In my searching i ran across the "Mulder's Chart".
Screenshot_2021-02-19-13-00-25-1.png


In the diagram it shows how elements can lock out each other and how a few elements can aid in the absorption of others. Far out!

This is not a fix all for every lock out due to an antagonizing interaction between elements. This does show how certain elements can assist in the absorption of other nutrients.

Here is the text from the helpful people at cannanutes...

---

Interactions between nutrients

Most growers know the importance of applying the right amount of macro- and micro-nutrients, and there are several ways of knowing whether a plant is lacking any of these elements. However, some of these deficiencies – or excesses on occasion – are not caused by a shortage of the element in question but rather by a poor combination with other nutrients, either in the potting mix, in the plant or both. In this article, we are going to look at the importance of the interaction between different nutrients and how it can affect the final crop.
By Inaki Garcia, CANNA Research

In 1953, D. Mulder published his “Les elements mineurs en culture fruitière”, one of the first studies of how different nutrients interact. The study included a graph, which is now commonly used. Over the years, other researchers have added other possible synergies and antagonisms. Clearly, studying the interactions between nutrients is essential for improving crop yield.

The relative proportions of different nutrients has a direct effect not only on plant nutrition, but also on the substratum in which the plant grows. Cations (positively charged elements) are to a greater or lesser extent retained by the negative charges in certain soil components, such as clay and organic matter. Cations include Na+, K+, Ca2+, Mg2+, NH4+ and H+ (sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium and hydrogen).

Plants absorb elements that are dissolved in water, which means that elements trapped in the soil cannot be used directly. In some cases, however, these elements can filter into the water in the substratum and thus be assimilated by the plant.

The more cations that the soil or substratum can hold, the greater its ‘Cation Exchange Capacity’ (or CEC). The proportion of cations in the soil directly influences the texture of the soil or substratum.

Interactions between nutrients

Here are some of the most important interactions between nutrients.

Nitrogen

When in the form of ammonium, NH4+, nitrogen interacts negatively with the plant’s uptake of calcium, magnesium and potassium, particularly when the NO3- (nitrate)/NH4+ (ammonium) ratio is low.

As a result, excess NH4+ can lead to a deficiency in any of these three elements. This is an important problem in hydroponic growing, which normally uses an inert growing medium with a low or zero CEC index; here the quantity of available calcium, magnesium and potassium depends solely on what is in the nutrient solution, unlike soils or substrata with high CECs which normally hold a large quantity of these elements.

There is also an antagonistic interaction between the anions Cl- and NO3- . Excess Cl- (very common in saline and/or sodic water) can reduce the plant’s absorption of NO3- .

The N/K ratio is also crucial when plants are passing from the growth (vegetative) phase to the generative (flowering or fruit-bearing) phase. The primary stimulus for a short-day or long-day plant to go from vegetative to generative is the number of consecutive hours of darkness. However, other stimuli, such as the N/K ratio, also affect these phenological states to some extent.

Fruit contains an abundance of potassium, and it is therefore essential to ensure a proper supply of potassium during generative periods. Yet regardless of how much potassium there is, if the ratio to nitrogen is too low, this can lead to a reduction in flower formation and plants with many vegetative parts (leaves and branches) and few generative parts (flowers and fruit).

Potassium

It is essential to get the proportion of potassium right, since it interacts both in the soil and in the plant with phosphorus, sodium, calcium and magnesium.

In clay soils with a high CEC, when the plants are irrigated with fertilizer solutions in which the potassium is dissolved in its ionic form, some of the potassium is adsorbed by the mineral and humic parts of the soil.

If you irrigate with a low-potassium solution, the potassium held in the soil is released for uptake by the plant. This exchangeable potassium and the solution are known as available potassium. As its name suggests, it is this kind that the plant absorbs most readily.

However, the potassium also comes in non-exchangeable forms which are strongly fixed to the soil components. In this case, it is not directly available to the plant and only enters into the solution when levels of exchangeable potassium are very low. The problem of using this potassium is that it takes a long time to go from its fixed state to the interchangeable state, which means that it is not readily absorbed by the plant.

Applying too much calcium and magnesium can cause a potassium deficiency; the K/Ca and K/Mg ratio should always be kept above 2 (but below 10, since too much K can hinder the absorption of calcium and magnesium). Too much potassium can also prevent the absorption of certain micro-elements, such as zinc. It is particularly important to take account of this interaction when using very hard water with a high calcium and magnesium content.

Phosphorus

An excess of phosphorus interacts negatively with the majority of micro-elements (Fe, Mn, Zn and Cu). In some cases, this is due to the formation of insoluble precipitates and in other cases, to metabolic processes in the plant which prevent the transfer of the nutrient from the root to other parts of the plant. This is the case, for example, with the P/Zn interaction. The P/Fe interaction appears to be negatively regulated at the cellular level and by the formation of insoluble complexes. The P/Cu interaction normally involves the formation of precipitates in the root area.

Genetic interactions can vary from one species to another and even between different varieties of the same species. For example, in some species a positive effect has been observed between the amount of available phosphorus and the plant’s resistance to salinity, meaning that an increase in this element leads to greater resistance. Other studies, however, conclude that the effect is negative.

There have also been reports of a reduction in the availability of sulfur and calcium when large quantities of phosphate are applied. In the case of calcium, this is caused by the formation of insoluble phosphates.

In contrast, phosphorus favors the absorption of magnesium, so a shortage of phosphorus could also lead to a magnesium deficiency if the latter is present in small quantities.

Both NO3- and NH4+ facilitate the absorption of phosphorus. In the case of NH4+, the reason appears to be the excretion of H+ ions by the plant when nitrogen is administered in this form in significant quantities. These H+ ions cause a slight acidification of the root area, which can favor the solubility of some phosphorus salts which would otherwise be trapped or remain in an insoluble form.

Interactions between nutrients
Root nodule. Colored Scanning Electron Micrograph (SEM) of a root nodule on a pea plant (Pisum sativum) caused by the nitrogen-fixing soil bacteria Rhizobium leguminosarum. The plant and the bacteria have a symbiotic relationship. The bacteria convert (‘fixes’) atmospheric nitrogen in the soil to ammonia. The plant cannot carry out this process itself, but it is vital for the production of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. In return, the plant passes carbohydrates produced during photosynthesis to the bacteria for use as an energy source. The bacteria enter the plant through its root hairs, where an infection thread leads it to the nodule.

Magnesium

It is also important to take account of the Ca/Mg ratio. Its most important effect is its influence on the soil structure. Calcium in the soil tends to improve aeration, while Mg favors the adhesion of soil particles. Thus, if the Ca/Mg ratio is very low, which means that much of the exchange complex will be occupied by these Mg ions, the soil becomes less permeable, harming the development of the crops. Because of this, the Ca/Mg ratio should always be kept above 1.

This ratio is also important for the mineral balance within the plant. The Ca/Mg ratio in the leaves of some plants is about 2:1, which means that it is necessary to apply greater quantities of calcium than magnesium via the nutrient solution.

Magnesium uptake is also influenced by Zn and Mn levels in the growing medium; an overdose of these micro- elements, as well as being toxic, could also reduce the plant’s absorption.

Interaction of Sodium with Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium
Sodium has a negative effect on most plants due to its toxicity, when it accumulates in certain tissues of the plant, and its capacity to harm the soil structure by competing with other cations for adsorption (the adhesion of the cation to the surface of some soil components). When a soil contains a level of sodium that might prove harmful to crops, it is said to be sodic. Soil sodicity should not be confused with soil salinity, which refers to the total quantity of salts in the soil, without specifying which salts are more prevalent.

There are two ways of determining where there is a risk of harm from excess sodium. One is by calculating the ratio between the sodium and other dissolved cations that will be absorbed by the plant. This is known as the sodium adsorption ratio or SAR. The formula is as follows:

Interactions between nutrients

Irrigation water with a SAR over 18 is considered as having a high sodium content.

Another way is by calculating what proportion of sodium cations is retained in the exchange complex, as compared to others. This is known as the exchangeable sodium percentage (ESP).

ESP = 100 x Na / CEC
A soil is considered sodic if it has an ESP of over 15%.

Finally, the ratio between calcium, magnesium and sodium can be altered by the presence of carbonates and bicarbonates. In other words, even if there is initially more Ca and Mg than Na – in principle a good ratio for avoiding problems – if you irrigate with very hard water containing large quantities of carbonates and bicarbonates, they can make the calcium and magnesium precipitate in the form of insoluble carbonates, tipping the scales in favor of sodium and increasing the SAR.

This is known as the residual sodium carbonate (RSC) index. The formula is as follows:

RSC=(CO3-+HCO3-)-(Ca+2+Mg+2)
Tap water with values over 2.5 should not be used, as it can cause problems.

---

This is amazing stuff. Some people use hydro nutes that are mainly nitrates and if an excess happens, a simple leeching or a flush of !!!the media can aid in the removal of the excess.

As an organic gardener, flushing is not always possible as the nutes can be locked up in the soil and not easily precipatated out. This little article illuminates as few options for organic growers to address a lock out.

In the meantime, the article states flushing the media with "hard water" to precipitate the calcium. I don't have hard water. I did go looking and found how to make hard water. It requires the use of calcium chloride (substitute = Alum) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). I am not about to add more calcium amd screw with the pH just yet.

Again, the AC/DC is a touch ill but it is only a learning moment given the info I have gleaned that otherwise would have gone unseen.

At this point I am foliar feeding kelp twice weekly in hopes of bypassing the root issue and get some nutes to her.

If she does go south, I will take that opportunity to usher in the grow move to the out building. This stuff presently happens in the back bedroom. As our baby get bigger, that room is needed ASAP.

As much as I want this to be a journal of successes, it is a journal of my grow education. If I knew it all, I would be pompous.
That sucks, but you can bring her back.... I hurt Edith. I top dressed stoned. I woke up realizing what I did. I can remember counting tablespoons of nutrients.... I woke up saying oh shit. I noticed Edith had been overdosed yesterday. Wasn't sure why and this morning I remembered. I doubled the nutrients she should have had. I will take some pics today when I flush her. I'll post on my thread.. Dammit!!!!
WoW!!! What a harvest !!!! Class is in session. I will never plant 3 gallon Coco again. I'm gonna have to water twice a day. I'm already watering 5 gallon once a day now.
 
In the end PDiddy...this plant teaches us the care we need to give to mother nature.

You are a solid grower and mistakes are going to rise up and nip our heels. We should not let it give us an opportunity to beat ourselves up, but rather an opportunity to refine our approach and try again; being even more successful.

It's tough making mistakes. I wanted to bury the plant and start again. Then I realized that doing so would not reveal the mistake I made and potentially allow another to do the same. So, once I quit beating myself up, I took the time to document and research and refine.

We live to grow another day. :)
 
In the end PDiddy...this plant teaches us the care we need to give to mother nature.

You are a solid grower and mistakes are going to rise up and nip our heels. We should not let it give us an opportunity to beat ourselves up, but rather an opportunity to refine our approach and try again; being even more successful.

It's tough making mistakes. I wanted to bury the plant and start again. Then I realized that doing so would not reveal the mistake I made and potentially allow another to do the same. So, once I quit beating myself up, I took the time to document and research and refine.

We live to grow another day. :)
It's a new Dawn. It's a new day. It's a new life for me and I'm feeling good. The fish know how I feel.
 
20210222_133744.jpg

This is pretty uneventful. There is no change from the first couple of days. Perhaps more is going on than i can readily see.

This is at the 5 day mark. I will let it go the full 14 of the recommended 7-14 days to allow the LABs to do their full potential.

I have started reading up on dissolving egg shells in vinegar for a water soluable Cal supplement. I would think during application, an addition of some Espom salt would address Cal/ Mag support through growing. I have just started saving egg shells. It may be a few days before I get that concoction going, but we already have a surplus of eggs, thanks to our chickens.

Bones can be added in to that vinegar bath for even more calcium.
 
we already have a surplus of eggs, thanks to our chickens
Wow, how lovely it must be to have fresh organic eggs from your own chickens, they just taste so much nicer! :drool:
Not to mention the synergy with their composted waste in your grows. :morenutes:
 
Any visit from you, Nutty, is appreciated.

Anybody stopping by is welcome, as well. The door is always open. Though it is a touch quiet right now.

I am getting an itch to move my grow... Maybe it's due to the quietness on the thread or life overall. Given my anxiety, I try and stay as calm and placid as can be. So when these ideas/inspirations come and can't be dropped or stopped, it usually happens. Either because it IS time, or I need to execute it to be "free of an urge" again.
 
its a battle mate but one we must fight and win , positive vibes heading your way from lucky ireland :green_heart:
ive been doing the cold shower thing from that other thing i told you about , fell much stronger and its just been 2 weeks , i started off after my power walk getting a luke warm shower then worked down , i still haven't got it ice cold, but i will ,. 5 mins after i feel much much better ,
im telling you man ive tried lots of things and this simple thing is doing it for me, the benefits are unreal , i wouldn't pass this on if it was no good at all , i use cbd now in the day and later at night i have a proper thc body stone pipe , i never thought id see the day id smoke cbd weed , but there you go , its doing wonders for me , and ive got less 50 percent anxiety i swear to God the mix of the 3 things is perfect for me ,

I Hope you get sorted , i know this might not help you but it also might :goodluck:
 
look here is another , was wondering why i was getting the job done

COLD SHOWER BENEFITS #4: INCREASED PRODUCTIVITY​

A study in the Netherlands involving 3,000 participants found those who finished their daily shower with a 30-90 second blast of cold water were 29% less absent than their colleagues after just 30-days of the trial.

It speaks volumes that two-thirds of those who completed the study continued with their daily cold shower ritual once the trial ended.
 
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