Promix help please

It is best to not irritate you water supply before putting it away otherwise it might hold a grudge against you and the plants.;) Just funning you 'cause I figured out you were asking about aerated water.

For the most part I doubt that using air stones to aerate water will make any difference in long run storage. It does help when making some compost style teas because it introduces some extra oxygen and the action of the air bubbles helps keep the tea mixing up. I would think that within days, or maybe hours, after the air stones are removed some or most of the extra oxygen has already started to off-gas.
It def raised my ph over night from 5.5-6.4 and has remained since. Ppm remained the same at 790. I have a tiny wave maker as well. (Used for fish tanks for years in the past). I don’t mind setting up my water the day before at all.


And lmao. Yeah. Let’s not irritate the water. Hahahah
 
My well waters ph is in the mid to high 7's. Are you saying I don't need to ph down ?

Cheers

If you are using Pro-Mix or any other buffered soil-less mix, that is correct. You do not need to lower the pH of your water/feed solution.
 
Low or high, the ProMix is buffered. Please do read the first post here for what the manufacturer has to say on the subject:
 
Low or high, the ProMix is buffered. Please do read the first post here for what the manufacturer has to say on the subject:
That specifies Promix Hp. What about the moisture control ?
 
I use Pro Mix exclusively.
I don't pH.
My water is 8.3 pH from tap and 7.3 after off gassing.

Plants have been doing much better since I stopped pHing a few years back.

Why dump acid on a plant when I don't have to? It's just an added expense and is dangerous to have around pets and children.
 
Doesn’t hurt to set your ph tho does it? Like just to be safe.
You absolutely can pH your nutes if you like. What that won't do is prevent the pH of your medium from drifting due to the alkaline content of your water (not the pH) and the type of nitrogen in your nutrients.

The most important pH is the pH of your medium, and when that gets out of whack it needs to be addressed. That does not involve pouring pH'd nutes through.
 
You absolutely can pH your nutes if you like. What that won't do is prevent the pH of your medium from drifting due to the alkaline content of your water (not the pH) and the type of nitrogen in your nutrients.

The most important pH is the pH of your medium, and when that gets out of whack it needs to be addressed. That does not involve pouring pH'd nutes through.
Ok. So. From my understanding, if your ph is naturally low from the nutrition, no reason to ph because the media is built for that. Would that help your medium ph from drifting into dangerous levels?
 
Let me copy and paste this here:
--------------------------------------------------
1. Ideal pH range for mineral soil is 6.0-6.5. Soil-less growing media, such as PRO-MIX, have an ideal pH range of 5.5-6.0.

2. However, pH of nutrient water is irrelevant to the pH of any soil or growing media. It is the alkalinity of nutrient water and the potential acidity/basicity of the fertilizer(s) that influence the pH of the growing medium and root zone. For example, if the alkalinity of nutrient water is moderate or high, pH of growing medium will rise over time.

a. Plant roots are electrically charged and must maintain a neutral balance.
b. For ammonium nitrogen (NH4) fertilizers, plants release of hydrogen ions to take up NH4. Hydrogen released is essentially acid and this drives pH down.
c. For nitrate (NO3) form of nitrogen in fertilizers, plant exchange hydroxyl ions for NO3 uptake, which causes growing medium pH to rise.
d. Alkalinity (CACO3) is essentially dissolved limestone. The higher the alkalinity of water, the greater tendency to raise pH of growing medium over time.

3. It is more important to keep track of the pH of the growing medium than the pH of the nutrient solution we feed the plants.
--------------------------------------------------

What would help keep your growing media from drifting out of the correct pH range would be water with a low alkaline content along with nutrients that contain a balance of nitrate and ammoniacal nitrogen (for example, 75-80% nitrate and 20-25% ammoniacal).

As mentioned, the pH of the nutrients you use does not bear on the pH of the substrate.
 
Let me copy and paste this here:
--------------------------------------------------
1. Ideal pH range for mineral soil is 6.0-6.5. Soil-less growing media, such as PRO-MIX, have an ideal pH range of 5.5-6.0.

2. However, pH of nutrient water is irrelevant to the pH of any soil or growing media. It is the alkalinity of nutrient water and the potential acidity/basicity of the fertilizer(s) that influence the pH of the growing medium and root zone. For example, if the alkalinity of nutrient water is moderate or high, pH of growing medium will rise over time.

a. Plant roots are electrically charged and must maintain a neutral balance.
b. For ammonium nitrogen (NH4) fertilizers, plants release of hydrogen ions to take up NH4. Hydrogen released is essentially acid and this drives pH down.
c. For nitrate (NO3) form of nitrogen in fertilizers, plant exchange hydroxyl ions for NO3 uptake, which causes growing medium pH to rise.
d. Alkalinity (CACO3) is essentially dissolved limestone. The higher the alkalinity of water, the greater tendency to raise pH of growing medium over time.

3. It is more important to keep track of the pH of the growing medium than the pH of the nutrient solution we feed the plants.
--------------------------------------------------

What would help keep your growing media from drifting out of the correct pH range would be water with a low alkaline content along with nutrients that contain a balance of nitrate and ammoniacal nitrogen (for example, 75-80% nitrate and 20-25% ammoniacal).

As mentioned, the pH of the nutrients you use does not bear on the pH of the substrate.
So like I was asking earlier. How do you avoid letting your media getting all jacked up. Weather it be acidic or alkaline. That’s a problem I just had to conquer about a month ago.
 
With a grain of salt or the word of the folks that make it. ;)

Or any of the scientists that @farside05 can quote from to back it up. The pH of the substrate is what matters in a non-hydro environment, not the pH of the water added to it.

And what changes the pH of the substrate? The answers lie in the first post from here, direct from the folks who study this for a living.

I'll give it a go !

I have five auto's from autoflower dot ca @ 30 days.

Front left is a King Gelato (which I topped) and on the right is a Gorilla Glue #4.

The back two are Gelato's and the middle baby is a Purple Silverback.

From now on the Gelato on the left and the PS get pure well water with MC, he, he...

The Girls 6 Feb 2022 Day 30.jpg


Cheers
 
Four days later !

Still perfectly healthy, the back left Gelato is now 29" tall, her sister (topped) on the right is 24"...

But, with four main tops and being shorter (more plant/tops in the "good" zone of light) I believe this is the way to go with Auto Sativa dominate strains.

And for the record, she was accidentally topped After she started flowering.

Stupid boo boo :rolleyes:

As I was tying the top down, I thought to myself, slightly past 90 degrees might not be a good idea.

Her next watering was late and the stem had snapped, sigh.

Ahhhh, an opportunity to learn something, he, he..

The runt of the family, the Purple Silverback in the middle is now 15" and looking Gorgeous !

Slow starter but coming on Strong and still stretching....

Top leaves are a little curled so I moved her down a bit. Too much love :love:

PS 17 Feb 2022 Day 40 - Copy.jpg


The Girls 17 Feb 2022 Day 40 - Copy.jpg


ProMix HP has been my grow medium of choice for a while now but switching to MC and Not having to ph my water has increased the Fun part of my grow !

The taller Gelato has been "flowering" for over a week now with no issues. Fingers crossed, eh ?

Cheers
 
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