Quest for mold-resistant strains, Hawaii outdoor greenhouse grow

Hey Growmies,

It's time once again for another episode of Moldsville! :ciao:

Actually, it's pretty much a rerun of a past episode... Blueberry's Bud Rot.

Friday, the Grape Ape had hardly any detectable bud rot (1 or 2 spots).

Sunday I had to harvest early. This was a salvage harvest. Bud rot was all over the place – crazy rapid onset.

I will likely grow Grape Ape again from one of the clones, and this time I'll pay a lot more attention to her, including inoculating the soil with some beneficial bacteria and trichoderma, and using a 15 gal fabric pot. Stay tuned!

This result from Grape Ape happened even though we've been having plenty of sunshine. Blueberry on the other hand was harvested during a rainy period.

Here's tonight's harvest report for Grape Ape...

Grape Ape (90% indica)

categoryscore
Leaf mold resistance* (low, med, high): med2
Bud rot resistance* (low, med, high): low-0.5
Bug resistance (low, med, high): med+2.5
Resin production (low, med, high): med2
Fragrance: subtle, sweet, cheese--
Harvest status (minus, neutral, plus): minus
harvested early due to bud rot
1
Yield (low, med, high): med
ignoring the rot
2
Overall rating: 10/18 = 56%

* Low and med resistance implies peroxide or some other foliar spray was used on leaves and/or buds.

Top colas (left), and all that was salvaged from them (top right). Threw out about 90% of buds. It was mostly just the start of bud rot, but it was everywhere... just not worth messing with.

grape_ape_trim1.jpg


Grape Ape Terpenes

Grape Ape (90% indica): myrcene; others - pinene, caryophyllene, limonene.

Compared to Blueberry...

Blueberry (80% indica): myrcene; others - pinene, bisabolol, caryophyllene, terpineol, limonene, linalool.​

Compared to indica landraces...

Afghani (indica): myrcene; others - terpinolene, pinene, caryophyllene, limonene.​
Nepalese (indica): myrcene; others - caryophyllene, limonene.​
Hindu Kush (indica): limonene; -or- close mix of dominance - caryophyllene, myrcene, humulene, limonene. (One source says limonene dominant, followed by caryophyllene, carene, pinene, linalool and ocimene.)​

Wow seems like you have a hard case every other time. Must be the conditions where you grow; is it high humidity? Like 80% and up?

How are your findings using the several teas and methods to prevent or kill spores?

Thanks for sharing.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the questions!

I know you're trying to find varieties that will work well in your climate, but why not try one of the strains you like but have rot issues with, with @Danishoes21 's willow water spray and see if that would be effective?

More work to be sure but, if it were successful, that would open up your choices.
I'm looking at all approaches, and whatever involves the least work, ultimately.

I think what's being revealed is that my environmental factors – i.e. climate and ambient spore levels – are just way beyond what outdoor growers in non-tropical climates experience. It's a whole other level. Where I am is generally very wet and humid. It's always relatively warm here, also – usually 75°F to 80°F. It's also sunny here a lot. Vegetation grows like crazy here... weeds and weed trees. Everything gets moldy, including clothing. Screens on the house become biomes of algae, fungus, and mold.

I'm looking for strains that are: a) naturally bud rot resistant, b) do well in my climate, c) do well with my growing method, and d) that I like the effects of. Plus, one of each: THC (indica, sativa, 50/50); CBD (indica, sativa); CBG.

So far, I've found two: HI-BISCUS (indica w/ sativa effects), and Humboldt Dream (indica dominant). I consider the CBDs to be in somewhat of a different realm – I'm not so much looking for those that are particularly bud rot resistant. Rather, if I can find any that can produce 15-20+% CBD, that's the goal. I do think, also, that the CBDs are generally more bud rot resistant than THCs, so then it's just more a matter of maximizing plant health during veg and flower.

Wow seems like you have a hard case every other time. Must be the conditions where you grow; is it high humidity? Like 80% and up?

How are your findings using the several teas and methods to prevent or kill spores?
Yeah, usually high humidity. When the sun comes out, RH can drop to "reasonable levels", but it won't be long before it's back in the high zone again. These swings can easily happen in the same day.

I think the foliar teas I recently did were helpful, perhaps mainly for the septoria leaf spot and downy mildew leaf spot; however, with all the sunny weather now, it could also be due to that.

The result of the Grape Ape tells me that even peroxide isn't going to help once bud rot reaches a critical state. At 8 fl oz per 1/2 gal water, the concentration was enough for bubbles to appear on the wooden deck below the plant. One would think that'd be enough to kill whatever, but not so. I also treated that plant with trichoderma, which is supposed to activate the plant's natural immunity to botrytis.

I think there's two main things going on in my situation: 1) degree of natural resistance, and 2) maximizing plant health.

Since I've been focusing mostly on natural resistance, I've sort of intentionally grown the plants at the fringes of plant health, mainly in two important ways – amount of time spent in veg, and pot size. For example, the Grape Ape was in veg for too long, and was grown in a 7 gal plastic pot. The result was that she was very root bound, and in the end, suffering from premature senescence. When senescence arrives, that's going to be the end for a plant that's not naturally resistant to bud rot. Fungus takes a foothold on dead material.

A prime example of the opposite of this was HI-BISCUS, because she also had premature senescence, but essentially zero bud rot – even though there were lots of dead bracts (i.e. pistils – bract is the visible part).

This phase of my quest is actually winding down. I've worked through all the varieties I wanted to try out. The next step is to grow the best ones out in 15 gal. fabric pots over the summer. This will start within the next few days, using clones. These will all be topped as well. Here's the lineup: HI-BISCUS, Humboldt Dream, Blueberry, Sweet Critical CBD, Seedsman 30:1 CBD, and DBL CBG.

Another aspect: Some strains may do significantly better when grown over the summer.

Here's some strains I'm considering trying out:
  • Trainwreck (sativa; myrcene and terpinolene; from Humboldt Seed Co. or Twenty20)
  • Thai (sativa; terpinolene dominant pheno; from Ace Seeds)
  • Durban Poison (sativa; terpinolene)
  • Super Skunk (indica dominant; myrcene, pinene, limonene, linalool)
  • Wonder Woman (50/50; pinene, myrcene, bisabolol, caryophyllene)
From my experience and research so far, I'm seeing terpinonlene dominance as associated with strong bud rot resistance. Also associated, a trio of dominant terpenes: myrcene, pinene, and caroyphyllene. Possibly involved: linalool, bisabolol, ocimene. High myrcene by itself doesn't seem to cut it.

Humboldt Dream is my #2 bud rot resistant plant right now, after HI-BISCUS. Terpenes: myrcene/pinene; others - caryophyllene, limonene, humulene, ocimene, linalool, bisabolol.

Here's an awesome resource to locate terpinolene dominant strains HERE – 276 strains covering indica, sativa, and hybrid. Combine those results with terpene analysis on THIS SITE.

From Trulieve.com: "Terpinolene, also known as alpha-terpinolene or TPO in the research literature, is a primary terpene naturally present in lilac, sage, rosemary, nutmeg, cumin, apple conifer trees, and tea trees. It’s considered lightly to moderately sedative. Alpha-terpinolene is most often found in Sativa strains, primarily those with higher THC content."
 
Possible discovery here 🤓

I was browsing through some high-THC terpinolene-dominant strains. When I cross-referenced to a website that provides terpene analysis, curiously I found more than one analysis that showed phellandrene dominant instead of terpinolene, and terpinolene was not even mentioned.

This made me think that one of the websites may have made a mistake. I thought perhaps the two molecules are so similar that some lab testing confuses one for the other. I also found this article on PubMed: Wound healing activity of terpinolene and α-phellandrene by attenuating inflammation and oxidative stress in vitro. The implication is that the terpenes are similar.

Check this out...

1687229548795.png
1687229620667.png


Indeed, very similar. α-phellandrene and α-terpinene are super close. The betas are also very close. If you look at other cannabis terpenes, they are very different than these two (except for limonene).

α-phellandrene (LEFT), terpinolene (RIGHT)...
1687231921349.png
1687232008950.png
 
THANKS....VERY INTERESTING AND INFORMATIVE!! DO YOU HAVE THE LINK?? I'M ALWAYS INTERESTED IN ANTI INFLAMATORY CYTOKINE RESPONSE FROM "CANNABINOIDS".....WHEN I WAS AT STANFORD I WORKED WITH SEVERAL PHYSICIANS WHEN CANNABIS FIRST BECAME "LEGAL" AND ACCEPTED AS A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE TO OTHER MEDICATIONS
 
Hey guys, thanks for the questions!


I'm looking at all approaches, and whatever involves the least work, ultimately.

I think what's being revealed is that my environmental factors – i.e. climate and ambient spore levels – are just way beyond what outdoor growers in non-tropical climates experience. It's a whole other level. Where I am is generally very wet and humid. It's always relatively warm here, also – usually 75°F to 80°F. It's also sunny here a lot. Vegetation grows like crazy here... weeds and weed trees. Everything gets moldy, including clothing. Screens on the house become biomes of algae, fungus, and mold.

I'm looking for strains that are: a) naturally bud rot resistant, b) do well in my climate, c) do well with my growing method, and d) that I like the effects of. Plus, one of each: THC (indica, sativa, 50/50); CBD (indica, sativa); CBG.

So far, I've found two: HI-BISCUS (indica w/ sativa effects), and Humboldt Dream (indica dominant). I consider the CBDs to be in somewhat of a different realm – I'm not so much looking for those that are particularly bud rot resistant. Rather, if I can find any that can produce 15-20+% CBD, that's the goal. I do think, also, that the CBDs are generally more bud rot resistant than THCs, so then it's just more a matter of maximizing plant health during veg and flower.


Yeah, usually high humidity. When the sun comes out, RH can drop to "reasonable levels", but it won't be long before it's back in the high zone again. These swings can easily happen in the same day.

I think the foliar teas I recently did were helpful, perhaps mainly for the septoria leaf spot and downy mildew leaf spot; however, with all the sunny weather now, it could also be due to that.

The result of the Grape Ape tells me that even peroxide isn't going to help once bud rot reaches a critical state. At 8 fl oz per 1/2 gal water, the concentration was enough for bubbles to appear on the wooden deck below the plant. One would think that'd be enough to kill whatever, but not so. I also treated that plant with trichoderma, which is supposed to activate the plant's natural immunity to botrytis.

I think there's two main things going on in my situation: 1) degree of natural resistance, and 2) maximizing plant health.

Since I've been focusing mostly on natural resistance, I've sort of intentionally grown the plants at the fringes of plant health, mainly in two important ways – amount of time spent in veg, and pot size. For example, the Grape Ape was in veg for too long, and was grown in a 7 gal plastic pot. The result was that she was very root bound, and in the end, suffering from premature senescence. When senescence arrives, that's going to be the end for a plant that's not naturally resistant to bud rot. Fungus takes a foothold on dead material.

A prime example of the opposite of this was HI-BISCUS, because she also had premature senescence, but essentially zero bud rot – even though there were lots of dead bracts (i.e. pistils – bract is the visible part).

This phase of my quest is actually winding down. I've worked through all the varieties I wanted to try out. The next step is to grow the best ones out in 15 gal. fabric pots over the summer. This will start within the next few days, using clones. These will all be topped as well. Here's the lineup: HI-BISCUS, Humboldt Dream, Blueberry, Sweet Critical CBD, Seedsman 30:1 CBD, and DBL CBG.

Another aspect: Some strains may do significantly better when grown over the summer.

Here's some strains I'm considering trying out:
  • Trainwreck (sativa; myrcene and terpinolene; from Humboldt Seed Co. or Twenty20)
  • Thai (sativa; terpinolene dominant pheno; from Ace Seeds)
  • Durban Poison (sativa; terpinolene)
  • Super Skunk (indica dominant; myrcene, pinene, limonene, linalool)
  • Wonder Woman (50/50; pinene, myrcene, bisabolol, caryophyllene)
From my experience and research so far, I'm seeing terpinonlene dominance as associated with strong bud rot resistance. Also associated, a trio of dominant terpenes: myrcene, pinene, and caroyphyllene. Possibly involved: linalool, bisabolol, ocimene. High myrcene by itself doesn't seem to cut it.

Humboldt Dream is my #2 bud rot resistant plant right now, after HI-BISCUS. Terpenes: myrcene/pinene; others - caryophyllene, limonene, humulene, ocimene, linalool, bisabolol.

Here's an awesome resource to locate terpinolene dominant strains HERE – 276 strains covering indica, sativa, and hybrid. Combine those results with terpene analysis on THIS SITE.

From Trulieve.com: "Terpinolene, also known as alpha-terpinolene or TPO in the research literature, is a primary terpene naturally present in lilac, sage, rosemary, nutmeg, cumin, apple conifer trees, and tea trees. It’s considered lightly to moderately sedative. Alpha-terpinolene is most often found in Sativa strains, primarily those with higher THC content."

Following along brother, and may I add;

The reason I went with Durban last year was entirely because of pest resistance and fast flowering. I added that genetic input to my personal cultivars. I found that in late fall (when conditions here go to 95% humidity and no heat) makes perfect conditions for the most aggressive forms of mold, rot and mildew. I saw resilience in that Durban, nothing. I would highly recommend the Durban for breeding purposes as it has a high pest resistant trait.
I have also used in the past trainwreck also showed positive feedback in late flower. And this is all outdoor grown in ground.

My personal Sativa cultivar has a skunk background to it and also showed and is showing extreme resistance to pest.

I think that if you try any of these they will last longer without the pest, but it could take several generations to build up the ultimate immune response to not get it at all. I have 2 of these “high pest resistant” cultivars going and one of the environments has already PM in it, not done intentionally but heck serves the purpose.

Thanks for your research.
:passitleft:
 
THANKS....VERY INTERESTING AND INFORMATIVE!! DO YOU HAVE THE LINK?? I'M ALWAYS INTERESTED IN ANTI INFLAMATORY CYTOKINE RESPONSE FROM "CANNABINOIDS".....WHEN I WAS AT STANFORD I WORKED WITH SEVERAL PHYSICIANS WHEN CANNABIS FIRST BECAME "LEGAL" AND ACCEPTED AS A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE TO OTHER MEDICATIONS
Here it is:

 
bud rot is depressing.
have you looked at more traditionally grown local strains ? hawaiin weed is world famous. kinda wondering if the answer to the mold / rot is there already.

everything else looks so perfect.
 
bud rot is depressing.
have you looked at more traditionally grown local strains ? hawaiin weed is world famous. kinda wondering if the answer to the mold / rot is there already.

everything else looks so perfect.
Hawaiian snow pop to my mind. It’s an incredible Sativa.

The most abundant terpene in Hawaiian Snowis myrcene, followed by caryophyllene andpinene.
 
THANKS....VERY INTERESTING AND INFORMATIVE!! DO YOU HAVE THE LINK?? I'M ALWAYS INTERESTED IN ANTI INFLAMATORY CYTOKINE RESPONSE FROM "CANNABINOIDS".....WHEN I WAS AT STANFORD I WORKED WITH SEVERAL PHYSICIANS WHEN CANNABIS FIRST BECAME "LEGAL" AND ACCEPTED AS A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE TO OTHER MEDICATIONS
Here it is:

 
Following along brother, and may I add;

The reason I went with Durban last year was entirely because of pest resistance and fast flowering. I added that genetic input to my personal cultivars. I found that in late fall (when conditions here go to 95% humidity and no heat) makes perfect conditions for the most aggressive forms of mold, rot and mildew. I saw resilience in that Durban, nothing. I would highly recommend the Durban for breeding purposes as it has a high pest resistant trait.
I have also used in the past trainwreck also showed positive feedback in late flower. And this is all outdoor grown in ground.

My personal Sativa cultivar has a skunk background to it and also showed and is showing extreme resistance to pest.

I think that if you try any of these they will last longer without the pest, but it could take several generations to build up the ultimate immune response to not get it at all. I have 2 of these “high pest resistant” cultivars going and one of the environments has already PM in it, not done intentionally but heck serves the purpose.

Thanks for your research.
Thanks for the input. My late brother was growing Durban and loved it. I think the Trainwreck is definitely worth a try, and I would definitely be using the genetics from either Humboldt Seed Co. or Twenty20. Yes, both would be good breeding stock. Good to hear some confirmation on Skunk as well.
 
bud rot is depressing.
have you looked at more traditionally grown local strains ? hawaiin weed is world famous. kinda wondering if the answer to the mold / rot is there already.

everything else looks so perfect.
🙏

Yeah, it's a drag... BUT... part of doing the science. I'm a hard core DIY kinda guy, so it fits that I would like to know how the machinery works, rather than just jump on a band wagon. It's a more difficult path for sure, but a great opportunity to learn stuff.

I think the answer to mold/rot is not found, let's say, "in a strain". It's found in either phenotypes of some strains, or it's found in the magic of expert breeders of IBLs, such as Humboldt Seed Co. And then there's the issue of acquisition. That's a big question with lots of voodoo surrounding it. If a braddah walked up to me and handed me a clone of XYZ and said try this indica, or sativa, or hybrid... and it will come in around X% THC... and it's just fantastically resistant to leaf mold, or bud rot, or both – I could say, wow... thanks, sure... I'll try it!

So, acquisition... From what I can see, and what I've experienced in my area, I haven't encountered anyone wanting to let go of such clones. I have encountered some "seed sellers" in the area. One guy had a tight operation going, with some Skunk genetics, but he wasn't in the category of a breeder of stable IBLs... just doing F1 hybrid one-offs. I'm not interested in that, partly because I don't have the space or time to do pheno hunting.

So, this leaves the only other option, which is to look for breeders of stable IBLs. I've looked at a couple or 3 websites of Hawaii sellers, and haven't been impressed. It seems what's being sold is more often "Dank Razzle Dragon" (with minimal info about the "strain") than anything traditional, heirloom, or landrace. Maybe there's no money in the "old stuff", even though it's the best. Or maybe the good stuff is kept... in the family. I did run into an old breeder here who was selling seeds of all the "good stuff," but the price was high, and I didn't have a high trust level in the guy. I asked him about bud rot, i.e. which strain was best, and he replied "they all are".

There's another aspect... the Hawaiian islands have very diverse, localized climates – everything from super rainy tropical rain forest to desert with almost no rainfall. As you go uphill from the ocean to the mountains, you go from warm sunny to colder wetter. So, I'm just saying that one-strain-fits-all isn't really the thing here. I'm in a rainy tropical zone, with dense vegetation, so ... hence the quest for mold resistant strains. Trusted IBLs that is.

Hawaiian snow pop to my mind. It’s an incredible Sativa.

The most abundant terpene in Hawaiian Snow is myrcene, followed by caryophyllene and pinene.
Thanks. I checked it out... Hawaiian sativa x Laos. 80% sativa.

I see two different terpene profiles for Hawaiian Snow:

AskGrowers.com: limonene (myrcene, ocimene)​
Leafly.com: myrcene (pinene, caryophyllene)​

Leafly reports the same thing for Maui Wowie... myrcene (pinene, caryophyllene).

AskGrowers reports for Maui Wowie: valencene/limonene/myrcene (phellandrene, caryophyllene).

I tend to believe AskGrowers more. Then again, when people are testing out these samples, they could be hitting different phenos – some more indica dominant, some more sativa dominant.
 
Here it is:

THANKS!!! SINCERELY APPRECIATE THIS.....JUST SENT IT OFF TO A COUPLE OF PHYSICIANS I CONSULT WITH....I WILL CONTINUE TO INVESTIGATE THE EFFICACY OF THESE HIGHLY POTENTIAL MOLECULES AS MEDICATIONS FOR PATIENTS
...THANKS AGAIN
 
Greetings Growmies,

I think what's being revealed is that my environmental factors – i.e. climate and ambient spore levels – are just way beyond what outdoor growers in non-tropical climates experience. It's a whole other level. Where I am is generally very wet and humid. It's always relatively warm here, also – usually 75°F to 80°F. It's also sunny here a lot. Vegetation grows like crazy here... weeds and weed trees. Everything gets moldy, including clothing. Screens on the house become biomes of algae, fungus, and mold.

today in the veg house
temp_and_RH.jpg


Flower house shots from today...

Left to right: legacy CBD #18 pheno, Humboldt Dream in 7 gal, and Blueberry in 5 gal.
flower_house1.jpg


Humboldt Dream clone in 7 gal. Coming along nicely. Best leaf mold resistance of the bunch.
blue_dream1.jpg


Blueberry clone in 5 gal., a bit ahead of Humboldt Dream. Distinct "blueberry muffin" fragrance. Top cola is tied to the rafters.
blueberry1.jpg


DBL CBG in 5 gal. She's starting to show senescence. Flowers may be close to ready (see below). This is the plant that apparently recovered from some serious stem rot about 4" above soil level.
DBL_CBG_plant1.jpg


Amazing white trichomes of DBL CBG. I see the same thing with my legacy CBG pheno. Let's see what happens now as the stigmas turn brown.
DBL_CBG1.jpg


DBL CBG
DBL_CBG2.jpg


Meanwhile in the veg house... Foreground/center: HI-BISCUS in 7 gal, Left: Sweet Critical CBD in 5 gal (clone mom), Right: Seedsman 30:1 CBD in 5 gal (clone mom). The CBDs will be going to the flower house very soon.
veg_house.jpg


Canopy of the Sweet Critical CBD. She lived in a 1 gal. pot for way too long, then got transferred to 5 gal. I'm just keeping her to make sure I have enough clones, and will then flower her out. The way she's been drinking, I may need to transfer to 7 gal. The next planting of both of these CBDs will be in 15 gal. Stay tuned!
sweet_critical.jpg
 
Hawaiian snow pop to my mind. It’s an incredible Sativa.

The most abundant terpene in Hawaiian Snow is myrcene, followed by caryophyllene and pinene.

I think the answer to mold/rot is not found, let's say, "in a strain". It's found in either phenotypes of some strains, or it's found in the magic of expert breeders of IBLs, such as Humboldt Seed Co.


as you've probably noticed you're going to be leaning into sativa genetics pretty hard if you are going after mold resistance.

even indica dominant hybrid phenos could have issues with mold and bud rot. anything compact or tight is going to give you trouble.

And then there's the issue of acquisition. That's a big question with lots of voodoo surrounding it. If a braddah walked up to me and handed me a clone of XYZ and said try this indica, or sativa, or hybrid... and it will come in around X% THC... and it's just fantastically resistant to leaf mold, or bud rot, or both – I could say, wow... thanks, sure... I'll try it!

Yeah, it's a drag... BUT... part of doing the science. I'm a hard core DIY kinda guy, so it fits that I would like to know how the machinery works, rather than just jump on a band wagon. It's a more difficult path for sure, but a great opportunity to learn stuff.

it's good you're willing to keep going and experiment. i wouldn't mind some of your stamina.

So, this leaves the only other option, which is to look for breeders of stable IBLs. I've looked at a couple or 3 websites of Hawaii sellers, and haven't been impressed. It seems what's being sold is more often "Dank Razzle Dragon" (with minimal info about the "strain") than anything traditional, heirloom, or landrace. Maybe there's no money in the "old stuff", even though it's the best. Or maybe the good stuff is kept... in the family. I did run into an old breeder here who was selling seeds of all the "good stuff," but the price was high, and I didn't have a high trust level in the guy. I asked him about bud rot, i.e. which strain was best, and he replied "they all are".


it's probably just a matter of connecting with the right people.

legacy growers are a tight knit bunch, they don't like their work being compromised. there are hundreds of instances where some new guy gets hold of their genetics and winds up monetizing it through a shady seedbank leaving the original grower skint.

under those circumstances i might be cagey around a home grower as well.



There's another aspect... the Hawaiian islands have very diverse, localized climates – everything from super rainy tropical rain forest to desert with almost no rainfall. As you go uphill from the ocean to the mountains, you go from warm sunny to colder wetter. So, I'm just saying that one-strain-fits-all isn't really the thing here. I'm in a rainy tropical zone, with dense vegetation, so ... hence the quest for mold resistant strains. Trusted IBLs that is.


makes a lot of sense. i have heard that legacy weed is / was grown in set bands at a specific altitude on certain sides of the hawaiian mountains. higher up, or further down they would struggle.



 
🙏

Yeah, it's a drag... BUT... part of doing the science. I'm a hard core DIY kinda guy, so it fits that I would like to know how the machinery works, rather than just jump on a band wagon. It's a more difficult path for sure, but a great opportunity to learn stuff.

I thing the answer to mold/rot is not found, let's say, "in a strain". It's found in either phenotypes of some strains, or it's found in the magic of expert breeders of IBLs, such as Humboldt Seed Co. And then there's the issue of acquisition. That's a big question with lots of voodoo surrounding it. If a braddah walked up to me and handed me a clone of XYZ and said try this indica, or sativa, or hybrid... and it will come in around X% THC... and it's just fantastically resistant to leaf mold, or bud rot, or both – I could say, wow... thanks, sure... I'll try it!

So, acquisition... From what I can see, and what I've experienced in my area, I haven't encountered anyone wanting to let go of such clones. I have encountered some "seed sellers" in the area. One guy had a tight operation going, with some Skunk genetics, but he wasn't in the category of a breeder of stable IBLs... just doing F1 hybrid one-offs. I'm not interested in that, partly because I don't have the space or time to do pheno hunting.

So, this leaves the only other option, which is to look for breeders of stable IBLs. I've looked at a couple or 3 websites of Hawaii sellers, and haven't been impressed. It seems what's being sold is more often "Dank Razzle Dragon" (with minimal info about the "strain") than anything traditional, heirloom, or landrace. Maybe there's no money in the "old stuff", even though it's the best. Or maybe the good stuff is kept... in the family. I did run into an old breeder here who was selling seeds of all the "good stuff," but the price was high, and I didn't have a high trust level in the guy. I asked him about bud rot, i.e. which strain was best, and he replied "they all are".

There's another aspect... the Hawaiian islands have very diverse, localized climates – everything from super rainy tropical rain forest to desert with almost no rainfall. As you go uphill from the ocean to the mountains, you go from warm sunny to colder wetter. So, I'm just saying that one-strain-fits-all isn't really the thing here. I'm in a rainy tropical zone, with dense vegetation, so ... hence the quest for mold resistant strains. Trusted IBLs that is.



[under construction]
NOT SURE IF YOU GENTS HAD A CHANCE TO READ THIS....INTERESTING

as you've probably noticed you're going to be leaning into sativa genetics pretty hard if you are going after mold resistance.

even indica dominant hybrid phenos could have issues with mold and bud rot. anything compact or tight is going to give you trouble.



it's good you're willing to keep going and experiment. i wouldn't mind some of your stamina.




it's probably just a matter of connecting with the right people.

legacy growers are a tight knit bunch, they don't like their work being compromised. there are hundreds of instances where some new guy gets hold of their genetics and winds up monetizing it through a shady seedbank leaving the original grower skint.

under those circumstances i might be cagey around a home grower as well.






makes a lot of sense. i have heard that legacy weed is / was grown in set bands at a specific altitude on certain sides of the hawaiian mountains. higher up, or further down they would struggle.
HERE'S A LINK TO MORE MOLD RESISTANT STRAINS....MAYBE BE REPETITIVE BUT I THINK OTHER READERS MAY BENEFIT

 
NOT SURE IF YOU GENTS HAD A CHANCE TO READ THIS....INTERESTING


HERE'S A LINK TO MORE MOLD RESISTANT STRAINS....MAYBE BE REPETITIVE BUT I THINK OTHER READERS MAY BENEFIT




it's really nice to have you around.
 
WELL THANKS!!! I APPRECIATE YOUR KIND WORDS....LOL....I KNOW THIS MAY SOUND A LITTLE STRANGE TO ASK.....BUT WHY IS IT NICE TO HAVE ME AROUND??.....JUST ANOTHER DUDE WHO ENJOY'S ALL ASPECTS OF CANNABIS AND IT’S ETHNOPHARMACOLOGY
 
WELL THANKS!!! I APPRECIATE YOUR KIND WORDS....LOL....I KNOW THIS MAY SOUND A LITTLE STRANGE TO ASK.....BUT WHY IS IT NICE TO HAVE ME AROUND??.....JUST ANOTHER DUDE WHO ENJOY'S ALL ASPECTS OF CANNABIS AND IT’S ETHNOPHARMACOLOGY


it's good to have someone with your background.
 
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