Mites sound like something I wish to avoid at all costs. I hope you have some SAS ladybugs in there bud. Will be cool to see if they get the job done though.
Hozona
Well-Known Member
Hey SolMJ When I had them I removed the infested leaves and then sprayed. They were outdoor plants. I used ladybugs indoors when they showed up indoors. I suspect I actually caused my problem by bringing a plant that had been outdoors inside. Here's a pic
HOZ
They look like little ticks. Gross.
Hozona
Well-Known Member
You think that was gross, check this infestation out!
If you see black oily looking spots like in the picture here you probably have white flies. All of those are youngins except the one mature one
HOZ
Imagine smoking the carcasses of those things. No thanks!
- Thread starter
- #226
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
You think that was gross, check this infestation out!
If you see black oily looking spots like in the picture here you probably have white flies. All of those are youngins except the one mature one
HOZ
Ah that's brilliant hozona, great pictures. Gross indeed but extremely useful for those who have never seen this before. I had no idea the black spots were white flies. I always seem to get a few of those so now I'll know to wipe them off asap. So thanks for that.
The mites are troubling though...they keep coming back, I must have squished about 20 earlier, I feel they're multiplying quicker & still no sign of ladybug eggs. What are they waiting for? Not sure I can hang on for much longer.
Hey blaze I hope you never get the pleasure of meeting any of them lol! Since you're a coco dude you might be less prone because your medium is always moist I think. They strive in hot & dry conditions.
Well I thought they were SAS but maybe they're a SEAL squad instead...too much showboating
Fantastic bunch to have on your side & great to watch but I think the SAS are needed here. who dares wins!
SEALS you say... they might not get the job done, but at least you should get a book and movie deal out of it. 
DISCLAIMER: I am only joking. I know the SEALS are the real deal.
DISCLAIMER: I am only joking. I know the SEALS are the real deal.
I hadn't chimed in because it seemed like you were getting forward progress on the issue.
Now I feel I must toss in my 2 cents.
Mites are vicious, horrible, and persistent as hell. They leave eggs everywhere (soil, plant, floor, walls.... everywhere!) and you have to kill several generations.
I've turned a time or two on the dance floor with those little bastards. I use pyrethrin based products. The pyrethrins are a class of organic compounds normally derived from Chrysanthemum plant. You'll find plenty of products on the shelf in the garden section that have pyrethrin in them.
Create a spray mix with whatever pyrethrin product you've selected. Gallon batches. Find or get a sprayer that can make a pretty fine mist. Turn off your big lights and spray down your grow room. Spray everything.... walls, floor, underneath anything on the floor, just every possible surface. Now focus on the plants.... spray the plants all over... every single part of the plant. Now spay the soil down and saturate the soil with the mix. You can't overtreat.
Do this same process the next day. Skip one day and hit it one more time to kill of any lingering beasties.
Remember... you're spraying water here.... if you have bloomers (teehee!) you want to dry them off as fast as possible to avoid mold or budrot.
Now... if bugs continue to be an ongoing issue, you might investigate an regular neem oil program.
- Thread starter
- #229
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
Thanks tead for that. Unfortunately I can't order pyrethrin products online & they won't have any in the shops here, so I'm pretty much restricted to a homemade recipe or ladybugs. Have you heard about uvb bulbs that decimate mites...I wish I could order one of those as well lol! I'm still hoping the ladybugs are able to lay eggs & sort this out so I'm reluctant to using anything that could kill or disrupt them just yet. I wanted to clean the room with bleach but then again I fear for the ladybugs.
- Thread starter
- #230
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
SEALS you say... they might not get the job done, but at least you should get a book and movie deal out of it.
DISCLAIMER: I am only joking. I know the SEALS are the real deal.
Haha yes Hollywood here I come! shit I forgot my disclaimer too, yes the SEALS are hard core indeed!
I might urge you to closely review whatever options are available at whatever source available... if you read the ingredients closely, you may find something.
Dish soap can help some. Soap breaks down the shells of hard bodied creatures. I'm sure you'll find some words about using it if you do a search for soap.
Dish soap can help some. Soap breaks down the shells of hard bodied creatures. I'm sure you'll find some words about using it if you do a search for soap.
- Thread starter
- #233
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
Thanks tead. I watered them last night & sprayed the hell out of them with pH'd tap water. I checked this morning & squished a few more, they don't seem to be expanding in numbers just yet. Still no sign of eggs, not sure how much longer I should wait...a few days, a week, two weeks? maybe they're not laying because there's not enough food...
If & when I give up on the eggs & remove the ladybugs I plan on spraying with things like isopropyl alcohol, dish soap, h2o2 etc. Will just keep giving them cocktails from hell! lol
I will always collect any ladybugs I might run across in my backyard and toss them into my grow area. I usually have a few of them in there. I've never seen them make babies.
- Thread starter
- #235
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
I found about eight yesterday which I added, will probably find more today. Strange how you've never seen the larvae, maybe there wasn't enough food for them to warrant eggs. Still no sign of them my end, however the mite problem doesn't seem to be getting worse yet...today I didn't see as many although I still squished about 8.
The ladybugs are still wandering about doing their thing...they seem to be exploring more than anything else, it annoys me when one walks right past a spider mite I know is there without at least killing it for later, I'm like seriously wtf lol!
Looks like you got the Kazakhstan Special Forces ladybugs there.
millertm
Well-Known Member
When you go to war with mites, it full guns blazing. The more leaf mass they get the less yield you get. I'd fore go the lady bugs and hit them with something stronger. They don't rest or slow down.
I've been using dyna grow pro tekt, and the mites lost interest in my garden. Something to work into your next grow.
Good luck.
Cheers
Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
I've been using dyna grow pro tekt, and the mites lost interest in my garden. Something to work into your next grow.
Good luck.
Cheers
Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
- Thread starter
- #238
SolMJ
Well-Known Member
You could be right blaze. They're either highly incompetent or highly corrupt by taking bribes to look the other way
Thanks miller, I agree with you fully. However I decided to give these ladybugs a chance, would love to see those larvae's in action if they come about so I'll give them a bit more time. I can't give up on them just yet lol!
Corruption and bribes you say? Ok, I change my mind. They obviously belong to the South African police force then.
I thought this article may help with the spider mites. Looks like you have most of this info already. Just trying to help. Have a good day!
How to Get Rid of Spider Mites
3 Parts:
[Collapse]
Identifying Spider MitesGetting Rid of Spider Mites NaturallyGetting Rid of Spider Mites Chemically
Spider mites (Class Arachnida) are tiny sap-sucking plant pests. They attack the underside of leaves and suck the vigor from the plant; with large infestations they may even kill a plant. As soon as you spot an infestation, it's time to take charge and get rid of them!
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Part One of Three:
Identifying Spider MitesEdit
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1
Look at the surface of the leaves. If your plant is indeed infested with spider mites, the leaves may have yellow blotches on them. When light falls on the leaves, you may see a silvered look or even streaks of bronze or silver.
While mites usually attack the underside of leaves, they can sometimes get greedy and also eat the upper side of leaves and flowers. Eventually, the mites will suck holes right through the leaves - providing the most obvious evidence of infestation.
Even if you can't find holes in the leaves, your plant may still have spider mites, so keep an eye out for other signs of infestation.
Other signs of mite damage include distortion, deformation, wilting, spotting, streaking or discoloration on the surface of the leave. If the mite damage gets particularly bad, the leaves may start to fall off.
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2
Check for white webbing on the plant. This is a giveaway sign of some spider mites. The webbing usually clusters around feeding areas. Note that not all species of spider mite will produce webbing though.
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3
Confirm the presence of spider mites. Spider mites are so small, they can be very difficult to see. However, one method you can use to confirm their presence is to take a sheet of white paper, place it beneath the plant you suspect to be infested and and lightly shake the stem of one of the leaves.
A certain number of the spider mites should fall onto the paper. They can be viewed more easily with a magnifying glass.
Spider mites come in a variety of colors, including red, green, yellow and brown. They have eight legs and tend to move quite slowly.
Be on the lookout for spider mites with spots on their backs - these are known as two-spotted spider mites and can be particularly hard to get rid of.[1]
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4
Be particularly vigilant with certain species of plants. There are some plants which spider mites seem to favor more than others.
In particular, pay attention to possible infestations on miniature roses, fruit trees, bananas, potted begonias, beans, mint, broad-leafed weeds, strawberries, frangipani and indoor houseplants.
Be aware that the two-spotted spider mite has been known to infest over 100 different species of plant.
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5
Be especially alert during dry and dusty weather conditions. These are the conditions where spider mites can cause the most damage, as they are thirsty and are seeking moisture from the leaves of the plant. This also means they are very attracted to anything grown under glass, including plants sitting inside on your windowsills.
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Part Two of Three:
Getting Rid of Spider Mites NaturallyEdit
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1
Wash and wipe indoor houseplants regularly. Given that it is fairly easy for the householder to clean indoor plants this way, it can be the most effective and non-toxic method to rid the plants of spider mites.
You can use either plain water or a solution of tepid (cool-warm) water mixed with a very mild dish detergent or soap. Any kind of soap can be used, but castile soap is particularly effective.
Use a sponge soaked in the water to wipe down individual leaves of the plant, or place the water in a spray bottle and spritz the underside of the leaves.
Apply the soap solution again, six days later, if the infestation continues. Be aware that some species of plant are particularly sensitive to soap, so consider testing the soap solution on a small section of the plant before spraying all over.
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2
Spray outdoor plants with a hose. Attach a spray nozzle to your outdoor hose and use it to water any infested outdoor plants. Set the water to a high pressure and try to target the underside of the leaves in particular. This should help to wash spider mites away.
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3
Use rubbing alcohol. Isopropyl rubbing alcohol will effectively kill spider mites. Simply pour a little of the rubbing alcohol onto a clean cloth and use it to wipe the underside of the infested plant's leaves.
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4
Use plant-based miticides. There are a number of commercially available miticides which use natural ingredients to kill the spider mites, but leave the plant and other insects unharmed. The three most popular ones are as follows:
Pyrethrum is a natural pesticide which is made from a plant closely related to the chrysanthemum. It is the best pesticide to start with when targeting spider mites, however some spider mite species have developed a resistance to it, so you should keep a close eye on plants even after spraying.
Cinnamite is a non-hazardous pesticide derived from cinnamon oil. Although it is very safe to use and is effective for killing the spider mites themselves, it will not destroy the eggs. As a result, it will need to be used approximately every 3 days over a two week period, to ensure that all of the newly hatched eggs are killed also.
Neem oil is a miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree. It is great for targeting infestations, but also works well as a mite repellent and a treatment for powdery mildew.[2]
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5
Remove badly infected parts of the plant immediately. Pick up any leaves that have fallen off the plant and pull off any badly damaged leaves from the plant itself. This will prevent the mites from affecting other plants nearby. Place the leaves in a sealed plastic bag and throw in the garbage or burn.
If an entire plant is infected, you should consider removing it completely. This will give other plants a better chance at survival.
Water affected plants only from above and keep removing any infected plant pieces as soon as you spot them.
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6
Control weeds around plants. Don't give mites extra hiding places and launchpads to attack the plants that you actually want to grow in the garden.
In particular, remove all broad-leafed weeds.
Remove all debris remaining after harvest. This includes removing plant stumps, fallen leaves and any other plant matter.
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7
Use a homemade herbal tea. If you want to make your own miticide at home, you can make an herbal tea by mixing a tablespoon of ground cinnamon, a tablespoon of ground cloves and two tablespoons of Italian seasoning in a quart of water.
Bring the water to a boil, then take off the heat. Once it has cooled slightly add 2 tablespoons of crushed fresh garlic. Leave to sit until the water cools completely, then strain through a cloth or coffee filter.
Add a squirt of dish soap to the tea, then pour into a spray bottle. Spray the underside of the infested leaves with the tea every three days over a two week period. This should effectively kill the mites.[2]
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8
Use essential oils and organic salts. Rosemary oil, in particular, is particularly effective as an organic pesticide. Try spraying a solution of rosemary oil and water onto the leaves of an infested plant.
Luckily, the rosemary oil will kill the spider mites, but leave the beneficial, predatory species of mites alone.[1]
Fatty acids or potassium salts can be abrasive against mite bodies. Apply these late afternoon, to give the maximum time for the wetness to remain on the plants, to get to the mites.
Mist susceptible plants with water in the evening to make the environment cooler and more moist. This works well for the two-spotted spider mites which prefer warm and dry environments.
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9
Encourage the presence of ladybugs and other insects which prey on spider mites. Predator insects, such as lacewing larvae, predacious thrips and ladybugs can decimate spider mite populations if encouraged to stay in your garden. However, one of the main reasons that spider mite populations develop in the first place is the use of pesticides which kill their natural predators. Therefore, you should avoid using pesticides such as carbaryl, malathion and imidacloprid.[3]
These insects can be purchased online, from garden centers or through advertisements in gardening magazines. Alternatively, herbs such as amaranth and borage can naturally attract ladybugs into your garden.
Ask the supplier for details on how to make the most of using predator insects, noting that you'll have less success if using them in a mixed planting area.
Predatory mites can also be used against spider mites. Look for Phytoseiulus persimilis or other predatory mite species at the garden center (ask the retailer for the brand names it comes under, as this differs from country to country), then follow the release instructions.
Under the right conditions, predatory mites can decimate a spider mite population. Interestingly, ladybugs (or ladybirds) will leave predatory mites alone, targeting just the spider mites!
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Part Three of Three:
Getting Rid of Spider Mites ChemicallyEdit
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1
Spray with an insecticidal soap indoors. Along with wiping the mites off with water, an insecticidal soap will take care of severe outbreaks.
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2
Purchase a proprietary product suitable for outdoor spider mites. There are sprays or wipes available from garden centers and hardware stores. Use according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Dormant oil can be used in early spring, while light horticultural oil can be used in summer.
If spraying specific chemicals (such as dienochlor, dicofol, azocyclotin, fenbutatin, bromopropylate, propagate), it is recommended that you do not use the same product more than three times per growing season. This will help reduce the chances of the mites gaining resistance against the chemicals.
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3
Try getting rid of the mites with sulfur. Use either dusting sulfur or wettable sulfur. But don't use these in hot weather and be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
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