Bassman59's 1st Grow - DWC/LED - Pray For Me!

right on b...

looks good to me man, you didnt get what you aimed for, but for the first time i think you did freekn awesome. second round apply all the new stuff learned here, only can get better right? i cant wait to be there...
i really do hope that everything youre doin here helps with your mother immensely, i really do. shes got a good kid.
was gonna ask, ona bucket, did you make a DIY, or did you buy their little bucket adapter? was that all you had for odor control? and did it help out? sorry so many ?s gotta start plannin for that NOW.
 
JJ I just bought a tub of gel, put a cup in a 5gal pail, and about 4 x water. Then placed a fan over the top of the bucket. Works like a charm.
 
Here is to a successful first harvest :welldone::partyboy:

That is a big deal to see your first grow go all the way to harvest, Bass! Nicely done my friend. That should give a good amount to cook with, and do whatever else that will help with your Mom's ailments. I read an article the other day that talked about the benefits of cannabis treating dementia and worse. The anti-inflammatory part of cannabis stopped dementia in some cases.

Back to the lighter note of your growing skills. Again, great job! A lot of folks don't even see their first grow go into fruition. If you can, let that second tub go longer and watch those colas swell up real nice.

Keep up the great work, Bass! :popcorn:
 
Here is to a successful first harvest :welldone::partyboy:

That is a big deal to see your first grow go all the way to harvest, Bass! Nicely done my friend. That should give a good amount to cook with, and do whatever else that will help with your Mom's ailments. I read an article the other day that talked about the benefits of cannabis treating dementia and worse. The anti-inflammatory part of cannabis stopped dementia in some cases.

Back to the lighter note of your growing skills. Again, great job! A lot of folks don't even see their first grow go into fruition. If you can, let that second tub go longer and watch those colas swell up real nice.

Keep up the great work, Bass! :popcorn:

Thanks Dog.

Ya on the treatment too.

I was looking at the 2nd tub and it looks like it may just mature well. If so it could be good yield. So hopefully, it will get there. The clones are soooo ready to go into flower and they are getting big at 14+ inches and some wide branching. Sadly I have to get supplies to make the new rdwc and wait for tent to be clear.

looking forward to #2
 
Thanks Dog.

Ya on the treatment too.

I was looking at the 2nd tub and it looks like it may just mature well. If so it could be good yield. So hopefully, it will get there. The clones are soooo ready to go into flower and they are getting big at 14+ inches and some wide branching. Sadly I have to get supplies to make the new rdwc and wait for tent to be clear.

looking forward to #2

i'm definietly looking forward to your second grow too. i have a half-completed 9 bucket rdwc/aeroponic hybrid thing i'm building right now so seeing yours in action should be intersting. it looks like you have some nice buds already and a lot more coming. i think you did great on your first grow man. thanks for sharing it with us :thanks:
 
Well here's some pics from a few mins ago. Really there's only 2 plants in this tub. The 3rd is soooo small it isnt 2ft tall and would be lucky to produce 6 hits or a pinner joint. I'm letting it go for oil anyways though.

These pics are kinda bad, since I photo stuff horribly. But I'm looking for opinions anyways.

How's it look? Can I expect some of those tall but thin colas to fill out and get dense? I think this will be the best part of the grow tbh.

14 pics in total, two posts.

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Great job, looking forward to seeing round two. You're picking up the hobby very quickly and you're yields will only get better from here on out. I hope the meds bring some comfort to your mother. +reps


Thank you sir for both your support and experience. As well as the reps!
 
Hey Guys n Gals,

Couple quick questions.

1. How do I tell if harvest has mold in curing? I really have no clue. It's seems like it dried really fast so I put them in mason jars at about 48-64 hrs or so. The stems could kinda snap but not flat break, except for the tiniest ones which would break.

2. on my 2nd tub, somehow when I set the timers to switch to 14hrs lights out last week, it worked all days but today. I when in on the room some 7 hrs after the lights should have been off to only see the lights on. I messed with the timer and it still aint right. It's one of those ones that come digital with 8 plugs (4 on timer 4 not). In the end, I manually turned off the timer and was now wondering should I leave it off for the 13-14 hrs or turn it back on at normal time? I'll have to reset the timers again some how. Not sure why it isnt working right.

Thanks.
 
Hey Guys n Gals,

Couple quick questions.

1. How do I tell if harvest has mold in curing? I really have no clue. It's seems like it dried really fast so I put them in mason jars at about 48-64 hrs or so. The stems could kinda snap but not flat break, except for the tiniest ones which would break.

2. on my 2nd tub, somehow when I set the timers to switch to 14hrs lights out last week, it worked all days but today. I when in on the room some 7 hrs after the lights should have been off to only see the lights on. I messed with the timer and it still aint right. It's one of those ones that come digital with 8 plugs (4 on timer 4 not). In the end, I manually turned off the timer and was now wondering should I leave it off for the 13-14 hrs or turn it back on at normal time? I'll have to reset the timers again some how. Not sure why it isnt working right.

Thanks.

Great job, Bass! All's looking fantastic! :bravo:

As far as mold, the whole objective is to avoid it. Even though the buds were brittle when you put them in the jars, they'll sweat and soften up real quick. Your best bet is to put hygrometers in the jars and keep an eye on RH. I'll post a link to the method I use to cure. Since you don't have hyrgrometers, just make sure you open the jars regularly to let the fresh air circulate. If the buds are feeling very soft, you may want to leave the jar open for several hours, or a day, or even take the buds out of a jar and put them into paper bags. If they start to mold, you should be able to smell a "rotten hay" smell in the jars and you'll see brown/mushy spots on the buds.

As for the timers, the exact time of day is not that important. What is important is making sure your girls get 12+ hours of UNINTERRUPTED dark to stay in flower and not revert back to veg. So, leaving it off for 14 hours won't hurt at all.
 
Here's the info on curing:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feels dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

If you'd like, I have a link to some cheap "Calibre III knockoffs" that work great and cost a lot less I'll be happy to PM. :goodluck:
 
Thanks Mr Krip.

Ok so now, whats this and is it anything to be concerned about?

Thanks

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I thought you were worried about budrot when curing. I assume you're talking about the white stuff on the leaves. I can definately see some trichs, and can't tell for sure from the pics but it does look like you MAY have Powdery Mildew (PM).

Here's some info on PM:

Powdery mildew develops quickly under favorable conditions because the length of time between infection and the appearance of symptoms is usually only 3-7 days and a large number of conidia can be produced in a short time. Favorable conditions include dense plant growth and low light intensity. High relative humidity (RH) is favorable for infection and conidial survival, but infection can take place at RH levels as low as 50%. Dry conditions are favorable for colonization, sporulation, and dispersal. Rain and free moisture on the plant surface are unfavorable, however, disease development occurs in both the presence or absence of dew. Infection can occur at 50-90°F; mean temperatures of 68-80°F are favorable. Powdery mildew development is arrested at daytime temperatures of 100°F or higher. Plants in the field are often not affected until after fruit initiation. The leaves are most susceptible 16-23 days after unfolding.

Contary to popular belief, powdery mildew generally does not require free water to establish and grow. Infection can actually occur on dry leaves. Warm temperatures and shady conditions encourage the fungus to grow and spread. However, the spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight.

The optimum temperature for infection is between 68 to 77 degrees F and relative humidity between 40 to 100% is sufficient for the spores to germinate. Low, diffuse light also seems to favor powdery mildew development. The mildew can spread rapidly since the disease cycle can be completed in as little as 72 hours. However, it commonly takes 7-10 days from the time of infection to the development of symptoms and secondary spore production.

If you do some reasearch you can find some organic treatments for PM - just make sure you really have PM before you start treating. Some of them include sprays or sulfur burners you can purchase at a home/gardening center or hydro stores, but you can also make your own spray using baking soda or H2O2 and there's a good DIY by WeednFeed for a sulfur burner, but burning sulfur can be hazardous to humans and pets, so be careful with that treatment!

BTW...whatever you can do to increase air circulation/ventillation will help in prevention!
 
yes I was asking about budrot in cure. But then I saw this top bud all bright white foxtaily like and wasnt sure what that was/is.
 
Very impressive grow for a rookie! LOL I think you're entirely too hard on yourself for the yield, nothing wrong with that at all!
What are you planning on doing differently next time? Besides more or supplemental lighting I don't know that more could have been done with nutes (you were running close to 1400 ppm no?) do you think extending the veg state with more aggressive topping/fim'ing will get you more weight? would definitely bush out more, but not sure about bud density.
IMHO I'm totally going to copy this grow regime for my 1st dwc, with a few changes that I think may help a little, please let me know what you think as I'm totally in awe of what you've achieved but think a few changes could help.
I'm going with an 18 gal res, with 2, 5 inch netcups. Using a pump/drip emitter to germ until the rots reach the res (only filling the tub with 10 gals, with an 8 gal air void for the roots to hang in.) when the roots do reach the res I'll remove the drip emitter and just poke the hoses into the center of the root balls on the underside of the netcup/ allowing a constant flow down the rootmass into the tank, for more circulation/aeration. I think the extra airspace will help with extra oxygen hitting the roots, and might even help a little with the ph swings. Also going to supplement my u.f.o.'s with a couple cfl's, which I think would correct the spectrum a little if the ladies are hungry for some wavelength not produced by a led panel as I don't believe all the claims that plants ONLY use the spectrums made by these panels.
Let me know what you think...pros/cons?
off to read my next fav journal on the revenge of the beaten and defoliated clones LOL
best of luck this holiday season, hope your family/yourself keep healthy/safe.

thanks for the great journal, textbok perfect grow. :bravo:

Tweed
 
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