First Time Growing - Advice Welcome

[millertm]

Good looking plants, they are done when they stop swelling and most leafs are yellow. You will see foxtailing on your buds as well. My NP are within a week of being done.

Plants will yellow to ripen their fruit.

My Sour D post drying.

I'd say you are at least 3 to 4 weeks out.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[cmay]

Thanks guys i wasnt sure but i was just sticking to a simple 65 day flowering time frame. I guess i might be a little closer then i thought with them. I rather run them longer if it will increase taste yield or effect.


So ill be on as someone said "amber patrol" lol.....I will also keep an eye out for the yellowing of the leafs. What i dont know is should i keep all this foliage on her? She has lots of leafs and still huge fan leafs as well. I just see some many plants here that look like the fan leafs are taken off. Is this by purpose or did they die and fall off really late into bloom?


That dried sour look great my man. I Love all the crystals she produces.

 

[Noob4x4grow]

You have a lot of good advice on here, my friend. I agree that you are a few weeks away depending on how you want your high. They are some beautiful plants aren't they?

 

[GreeenFingers]

Hey cmay

Hope you don't mind if I pull up a seat

I thought you might find this interesting in relation to harvest times.

As duggan says it really depends on the effects you are looking for and he describes them well.

In the second picture you are ideally looking for the 2nd tier from the bottom, this is when most of the trichomes are cloudy and some beginning to amber, this is when the plant is at its peak THC concentration. The ambering that happens is the degradation of THC into its metabolite CBN a weak psychoactive this is the last tier. CBD concentration is strain dependant.

GreenFingers

 

[cmay]

Hey cmay

Hope you don't mind if I pull up a seat

I thought you might find this interesting in relation to harvest times.

As duggan says it really depends on the effects you are looking for and he describes them well.

In the second picture you are ideally looking for the 2nd tier from the bottom, this is when most of the trichomes are cloudy and some beginning to amber, this is when the plant is at its peak THC concentration. The ambering that happens is the degradation of THC into its metabolite CBN a weak psychoactive this is the last tier. CBD concentration is strain dependant.

GreenFingers

Thank you for that it helped out. I went and did a lot of research and think i can pick a good time to harvest.

 

[cmay]

Ok i need some help here as i have 20 days left to a target harvest of 65 days. I ran into some nute burn last later change with the sour diesel so inbetween water changes i just added plan ph'ed water. So the next water change i only added a 1/4 of the nutes it called for. I did that for both the sour and AK47.

While i was doing the water change i had to prop up the ak and i didnt notice that her upper node was touching the led light that has been on for a few hours. As soon as i noticed this i moved her away. I also only gave her 1/4 of the nutes to be on the safe side. Soon after that i would say 2-4 days later i started to notice some yellow leaves up top drying out and some of the lower leafs become wilted.

Now this is also i feel important and could be the cause. At the same time as i changed the exhaust set up is the sametime this issue happen.

Now the tent never had the filter inside always outside sucking dirty air out. Now its inside and the temp of the tent went to the mid 80's for a few days til i changed it yesterday. I also noticed that the dwc temp was elevated.

So i jumped into action feeling that im dealing with a heat stress issue and put bag of ice cubes in the dxw to drop the temp and some frozen bottles of water in the tent. I also upped her nutes back to half the dose.

The tent went back to its norm temp range of 68 lights off to 78 lights on.....

The sour diesel is doing find and dandy except the nute burn from two weeks ago. Did i do the right thing and is there anything else i can do, was my thoughts on the problem correct?


Ok not to end the update on a negative here is some of the sour, just need to perfect picture taking when lights are off.

 

[Papageno]

Well I think you are doing most things correctly and have probably diagnosed it correctly.

The only thing I would note is you are running the PPM of your solution up and down rather fast. I will post a chart below that shows what the PPM should be for a typical growth. It is in EC and the conversion can be found online. You want to slowly increase or decrease by topping off with target PPM so you land between them. But wholesale changing the whole res up and down and up and down is pretty rough on the girls. I mean they are robust and will handle it and you may not notice a difference...but they do. Slow changes work in hydro. all that matter is the PPM. if it goes up even a little and the res is at a higher concentration then the roots have saturated themselves too then they will start taking on more to equalize. So a little goes a long way.


Temps in the 80's although not great are not bad bad. Upper 80's is getting tough. 90 and above is problematic. 100's are problematic in minutes. So the tent getting to 80 aint such a big deal as long as there is good airflow. In fact that is as important as anything else. There is a point over which more airflow doesn't really help but it is "hard" (unnecessary) to achieve that. There is however a point where too little air starts to cause problems. And the number of issues grows real fast as the air exchange rate drops from there. I can't remember the numbers but you want your entire area to have all of the air pulled out of it regularly many times an hour. I run a 175 Cubic feet tent space that is running a 400 Cubic foot per minute fan. So each minute I have pulled out all of the air twice.

 

[Duggan]

Mornin Noob,...I'm sooo glad I don't have to concern myself with all that CEC. PPM, PH stuff anymore.....I use the "Kit"....

 

[millertm]

Lots of information being used here. Don't get lost, your doing great. Plants touching lights is a mistake we have all made. LED grow Temps should be 83 to 85, little higher then CFL or HPS. When you said your nute burned your plants, do you know why? That's the information you should seek. Your feeding schedule is a great place to start. Back of the bottle is not a great place to look. I now feed every watering but I'd not recommended this to newer growers. It took a few grows using same nutes to really understand how they work and how I should use them together. I trashed a few plants in the process but came out the other end with a better understanding of what I did and what happened. Your first grow will not be a home run nor will your second. But they can be great pulls nontheless. Try and understand how you're overfeeding caused root damage (yellow tipped leaves) and dial in your nutes. Your Temps seem to be in range but your plants look a but heat stressed. Sometimes it's tough to let your plants just grow. But you look to be making good progress towards harvest.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[cmay]

good read and thank you i found the ec/ppm and i should be keeping my ppm around 450-850 range in the temps of 70-80. Hows that sound?

really miller i thought that led was less heat then hps? I know cfl give off less then everything and i would of tried that if i felt that cfl was a better choice for me over led.

 

[millertm]

What I mean is that LED grows run their tents at 83° to 85°, where my HID grow tent is kept under 79°. Ramp your ec per feeding schedule. I can't stress how helpful those are if used correctly. That's why it's important to use one line not the best from two or three lines of nutes. Once you get a firm grip on what your doing (I'm still learning) you can dial in the next aspect. When I feed it's around mid 600 but I use organic and Chem nutes so it's a bit difficult to compare. My goal is to feed and keep nutes in preferred range rather then overfeed and dilute (feed, water, ect). Think of a Sin wave and how it starts high drops low and repeats each cycle. Your plant is only in target range few days a week if you feed, water each week or every 3 or 4 days. I hope to keep target range all week without any root damage. But it's tough, it's a fine Lind between under and over feeding.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[Papageno]

Using the kit is great. Using a proper soil so you never have to monitor or measure as all you do is add untreated tap water is even better.

But that takes dedication to make a proper soil. Not less than 3 months. (actually there are a few ways of cheating and getting close but still not as good as doing it correctly)

Most people end up switching to many various methods because they have never figured out how to develop a proper soil. In fact for some reason many people think you can buy a bag of soil and that is perfect for cannabis and plant in it without any modifications...Just directly in unmixed bag soil! How lazy is that? Some people are so misinformed I have seen them actually plant it in the soil bag without poking drain holes.

Right now due to repeated requests I am journaling, how to grow on the cheap, how to do it without expensive ferts. This grow I am not using any off the shelf bottled fertilizers really. I use one in my EWC tea bottle as it is the cheapest way to get that kind of kelp. I gave tea less than 6 times this grow probably and I am half way through bloom. It is probably my worst grow in a long time because I have never done it quite this way and I am purposefully not adding any ferts and pushing it to see how far I can go with undersized pots...but for a virtually free grow and no effort this will work.

So these plants have been grown primarily on untreated tap water after I got them through infancy.

Showing some mice purpleing already

Also no need to monitor pH or PPM. Just add water and brew up a tea every few weeks.

 

[cmay]

Whats this tea i hear you always adding, i never got around to asking.

 

[Papageno]

splained it here (among many other places)
VI's - Subcool Based - 2 Worm - Multi-Strain - Mother Hunt - 2016

 

[cmay]

I mean VI I know i have good air flow. I have an oscillating fan running 24/7 sweeping the top of the canopy. The exhaust carbon filter sucks the tent closed and i normally keep one low screened vent open. I know now that its best to put cubes in a zip lock so that they dont melt and mess up the concentration, which i did for the AK but not for the Sour.

Im really starting to get a strong sweet fruity smell from the AK now. Still not done yet and im hoping in another 2-3 weeks. That tea is nothing like what i thought it was. I was shocked to see all that goes into the mix.

So when do you actually plant outside and I was wondering would Auto's be better for an outdoor room? When would you start a bean for an outdoor run?

 

[Papageno]

So #1 yes autos were made for outdoors. There is no point in growing them indoors. You have control of the bloom schedule indoors so there is literally no meaningful sensible reason to grow them indoors. They grow slower and produce less and are finicky and harder to grow then normal seeds. A beginner can get a normal one to finish in the less time with more flowers using the same resources easily. A clone will finish way faster. Many people have a hard time getting autos to even flower and the seed banks will tell you it is because they should be grown outdoors where they get to see the moon at night.

My buddy in Ohio grows them outdoors because he can get them done and out of the ground before the cops start flying over his house looking for it. That is what they are for!

For outdoor it all depends on the growing season and the location. I have seen plants 15 feet tall. That may not be good in your yard...your neighbors may not like it. I have seen plants grown outside trained to keep it all below the fence line.

I have seen people veg a plant all winter and place a full 5 foot tall plant in the ground in early spring. You need a good big plot of soil made up to support a tree like that.

I had some clone I was going to throw out and for giggles threw them in the ground the first week of February expecting a frost to kill them and they are now 3 fee tall.

So there is a gazillion ways to mess up outdoor too.

The point is you need to consider how big you want it to get and plant the grow cycle for that.

 

[cmay]

Lots of information being used here. Don't get lost, your doing great. Plants touching lights is a mistake we have all made. LED grow Temps should be 83 to 85, little higher then CFL or HPS. When you said your nute burned your plants, do you know why? That's the information you should seek. Your feeding schedule is a great place to start. Back of the bottle is not a great place to look. I now feed every watering but I'd not recommended this to newer growers. It took a few grows using same nutes to really understand how they work and how I should use them together. I trashed a few plants in the process but came out the other end with a better understanding of what I did and what happened. Your first grow will not be a home run nor will your second. But they can be great pulls nontheless. Try and understand how you're overfeeding caused root damage (yellow tipped leaves) and dial in your nutes. Your Temps seem to be in range but your plants look a but heat stressed. Sometimes it's tough to let your plants just grow. But you look to be making good progress towards harvest.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

Yep I know why and its bc I got careless and forgot to check the water level on her. If you look back in my journal you can see where i just added plain PH'ed water to her. So she got burnt because i didn't replace the reservoir water and she was sitting in a higher concentrated solution.

 

[Duggan]

Get some of DBHBB soil cooking and ALL your issues will just fade away!

 

[cmay]

Im going to have to try that. Its on the list for the next time haha!

 

[Duggan]

Im going to have to try that. Its on the list for the next time haha!

Cmay,...just do it! You gotta try this ,....it's really on the front lines, this high brix cannabis. So clean, pure, potent and smooth. Such a fun way to grow...with no real worries or concerns...no stress, wondering, ya know. Take some time and check out some of Doc's journals.Another good aspect is , since consistency is no longer an issue...it opens up opportunities for "tweaking " things ,..knowing that what you do , won't wreck your crop. It's way more fun. I love it. Cheers eh!