17 Sq' Oxyponics - 1KW AC - 1st Grow

[s1ingblade]

I think half strength would be a safe option, I burned my plants pretty bad using AN's 2 part Sensi Bloom at there recommended dose.

Are they just talking about S. mites or do you have them? Hope not.

 

[bunches]

I bumped it up to half nutes. I'll just run plain water during the last week or so. Four or maybe five more weeks to go.

I don't have spider mites.

 

[s1ingblade]

Good deal on the nutrients, safe bet and I'm glad you don't have the creepy crawlers. The flowers ought to be about ready to start swelling up nice.

 

[bunches]

day 63 (day 33 of flower)
humidity under 45%Rh
chiller @ 66f

clones day 34

 

[s1ingblade]

hey bunches have you heard of defoliation for high yield? bassman59 has done a lot of research on the subject if you want to see some of his work here's a link:Increasing yield with defoliation indoors - What's it mean? How to do it? & Bassman's RDWC - High Defoliation - Master Kush Grow #2
Thought you might to check the subject out.

 

[gairbud]

sometimes my repies jump to somewhere they shouldnt be . so only if the shoe fits.

 

[bunches]

I've heard of defoliation, but am not keen to use it. Maybe some time I'll try it on a plant in front of the door.

I am now convinced the plants want a bigger tent, they're bushier than I expected. The Bassman post said he only had 4 plants in a 5x5, and that he always planned for 28 inches center to center between plants.

I either need to get rid of 2 plants (no!), OR... I need to get a bigger tent. I can just barely fit an 8x8 in the space I have.

When I made my purchase list, I had read that the size of tent to use with a 1kw light was 5x5. I knew only wanted to use one light. What I didn't know was how much space each plant needed.

Recommended: 28 inches center to center between each plant. No more than 4 plants in a 5x5. (that's 6sq' per plant)

What I have: about 20 inches center to center. 6 plants in a 5x5. (that's about 4sq' per plant)
(In a pattern like the 5 side of a die, with one on top.)

What I think I want: 6 plants in an 8x8 (that's just over 10sq' per plant, minus space for any equipment [like AC])

 

[gairbud]

just flower them and dont worry main tops are what your after. you can grow less plants next time.

 

[bunches]

I'd like to keep using the oxyponics 6 by Stealth Hydro that I'm using. Sure I could make it a 4, but I'd rather get a bigger tent; maybe just a cheap 6.5X6.5. Of course, I may not change a thing.

 

[bunches]

day 66 (day 36 of flower)

cuttings/clones/plants day 37 in cloner

Just before I gave the roots another haircut...

 

[s1ingblade]

If I could only borrow some of those roots lol, Im hoping in a few more days to have some roots showing so I can get to work

 

[bunches]

day 66 (day 36 of flower)

cuttings/clones/plants day 37 in cloner

Just before I gave the roots another haircut...

I've been waiting for your journal AZ. No better time to start one than now, as you wait for roots.

 

[s1ingblade]

I will soon, promise the in laws are here until tomorrow. here's a pic from yesterday, since then I have lowered the temps and trimmed off a couple of yellowing fans.

 

[bunches]

day 69 (day 39 of flower)

see how dry some of the leaf tips are
this plant is nowhere near the light
(humidity down to 35%Rh when lights are off, 45% lights on)

the roots look a little off color, not as bright as usual

clones day 40

 

[bunches]

day 71 (day 41 of flower)
flush and fill

clones day 42
flush and fill

 

[Green Knight]

Hey bunches; hope all's good. The photo with the brown leaf tips; it shouldn't be low humidity causing that, it looks like burn of some sort. If the lights aren't close are you checking your EC - it might be nute burn?

 

[bunches]

GK, if it's nute-burn, it's because I increased from 1/3 nutes to half nutes. That's the only thing that's changed, besides my lower humidity.

I hope they recover from the shock of increased nutes... I'd hate for something to go wrong during the last few weeks of flower.

Um.. what is EC?

 

[Green Knight]

EC means electrical conductivity- it gives a measure of the concentration of nutrients in your solution. Ppm (or parts per million) does the same thing, it's just a different scale.

It's worth using an EC or ppm meter with hydro as it also gives you an indication of how the plants are using the nutrients and whether the solution might be too hot or too weak. The EC or ppm changes as the plants are using water or nutes, so when you change your solution you add the nutes so you get the EC you want and then track it over the week. If the solution is a bit hot the plants will use more water than nutes and the EC will go up. If the solution's too weak and the plants want more nutes the EC will drop, and if it stays steady then it's spot on.

It might be your solution's only a little hot when you originally mix it, but over the course between nute changes the plants use more water and concentrate the solution so the EC goes up and it's burning the plants. It could of course also be a deficiency and you may need to add more nutes - an ec meter will help tell you this.

It's worth fixing though mate - it looks like it could hurt your yield if left to continue. Are the plants using a lot of water - do you have to top up your res often?

 

[bunches]

I'm sure I had a PPM on the list when I got everything. I'll be sure to get one.

The reservoir is never as full as it was a week ago, but I'm also running a dehumidifier on high. I don't top off, I just do a res change once a week. It's a pretty large res, so it never runs out.

 

[Green Knight]

When you say the res is never as full as it was a week ago, do you mean that the plants are using more solution than they were before you increased the nutes?

If you're not topping up the res it might be that the plants are using more water than they are nutes and this is making the nutrient solution very concentrated by the end of the week before you do the change and this is what's burning the plants. Does the pH hold steady or does it get lower over the course of the week? In the absence of a ppm or EC meter this will help give an indication of what's happening - nutrients are acidic so as the plants use the water and the solution gets more concentrated the pH will drop.

It might just be a case of topping up your res with plain water a bit more often to keep the nutrient concentration more stable between res changes