Breaking New Ground Lootz' 2x4 NoTil LOS Bed ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro

[Bill284]

Hello & Welcome!​

There is a lot to cover in this update so I'm just going to get straight into it.

I'll start with an update on the battle with the fungus gnats and the use of beneficial insects to combat them as that's probably the most interesting addition and out of the ordinary at least for me.
There was a point where I really thought it may be too late and I may have to resort to drastic measures and possibly start over!
The gnats had gotten so bad I wasn't sure if it was salvageable!

2 words...
NEEM OIL!

After applying the insects. I left the tent closed for the next couple of days, only opening it briefly to check on things adjust lights etc.
When I did open the tent massive amounts of gnats would fly out!
This is when I started to worry! I started thinking I was too late, and the gnats were just too entrenched in the soil and there was no hope in
sight.

While I waited for the bugs to take control of the situation, I gave the top layer of soil a good spraying daily even misting the tops and middles of the plants with neem oil.
I sprayed it anywhere I saw a gnat! I wasn't shy about it either.
I mixed up full doses and even extra strength doses of 1oz per gal and 1 oz per 1/2 gal.

The neem oil worked INSTANTLY in killing gnats where they stood! It really helped to push them back to allow me to do necessary work in the garden as well as buy our beneficials time to establish themselves throughout the soil bed.

It's been a week and I have to say I'm blown away by how well I was able to get it under control!
I really wish I would've used neem oil for the SIP grow. I may have been able to push them a little longer.
Hindsight is always 20/20 tho.

So now I have a bottle of neem oil mixed up at the ready and spray consistently when I see more than just a couple gnats flying around.
Kill the ones I can see let the beneficials take care of the ones I can't.

Speaking of the beneficials. I feel I've expressed how important neem has been to my grow

Although you have to look for them sometimes incredibly closely, they are there and active to say the least.

The rove beetles are simply just little terminators constantly on the move.
When you do see one it's not for long.
They tend to stay a little more hidden underneath the mulch and cover crop but every now and then you do find one on the hunt for Sarah Connor.

The mites tho very small I have confirmed them on the decaying cover crop breaking it down.
I wasn't sure what I was seeing at first but then I saw one move and I realized I had been overlooking thousands of them!
Anywhere there is organic matter that can be broken down they are there huddled around the water cooler in numbers!
Its super cool to see!

The nematodes obviously who knows where or how well they are establishing themselves though out the garden.
I did apply them to every bit of soil and every plant in my garden across 3 tents so they should be everywhere attacking every pest on the most microscopic of levels.
I can't confirm this, but I guess we will see.

All in all, the beneficial insect pack has been another massive improvement in the garden on so many levels!
Not only helping to keep our garden free of pests but also helping the nitrogen cycle in breaking down decaying matter.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe this would be the Ammonification process?
Decomposers break down the material into NH4 for the bacteria in the soil to turn it into NO2 for the plants to use?

Because of the gnats I have been a little stingy on the water and so the irrometer on the 2x4 is reading a little drier than I want to keep it.
Yesterday the top of the soil and mulch layer had a visibly lighter look to go along with what the irrometer was showing.
Thats a good sign.

I have been feeling like there's so much more I could be doing in the garden. I guess that should be seen as a good thing considering how well everything is going.

I mixed up 2 gals of water at a 1/2 dose of everything except the wetting agent. I mix that full strength every time and use it every watering.
I also top dressed with,

• 2 tablespoons craft blend
• 1/2 cup BuildaFlower
• 2 tablespoons Kashi Blend

I scratched that into the top of the soil and watered my feeding solution in
Although it could have used a little more, I did this in preparation for tonight.

I also started preparing a tea. I mixed,

• 1 1/2 Cups of BuildaFlower
• "about" 1/3 cups of dark brown sugar (as my molasses)
• 1 tsp Rootwise Bio-phos (extra bacteria)
• 1/4 tsp Jayplantspeaker saponin extract (wetting agent)

I plan to water in tonight which should bring the moisture level on the irrometer back to perfect.
It should also be nutrition made immediately available so that the top dressing can break down over time.
It will have been brewed for about 24 hours. I repurposed the "Ghetto Cloner" as @greenvein calls it.
This should cover all of our bases so to speak.

I also went ahead and did another defoil and gave them a lollipop for being such good sports!
I kind of struggled to do it as early as I did since it hasn't even been a full 2 weeks since flipping to flower.
























Sunday marks the start of week 3 since the flip, but it needed to be done.

I noticed a spot on a leaf where it was moist from another leaf sitting on top of it.
I also noticed a necrotic leaf that looked to have suffered from the same issue.
I had to remember that "no offense" it doesn't matter at all what anyone else does in their situation because its " their situation."
That's completely unique to them and their experience.
And that's completely ok.

Ok Lootzradamous rant over

Point being it may be early in other gardens, but it was right on time for mine in this moment.

I do think there will need to be another one done in another week right as the flowers really start to set and we can avoid the dreaded larf!

After that I gave the plants a foliar of Em-5
There was still neem residual on the leaves which is awesome seeing as how there were also dead gnats on some of the leaves as well.
The latter is not so awesome. I figured since the gnats were at least under control and the buds were still yet to set in just, yet it was our last and most perfect opportunity to clean off any nasty stuff we don't want in our buds.

I will be bud washing with this grow but still if I can get ahead of it, why not?
I won't be foliar feeding or foliar anything at all in another couple of days tho as the buds have officially started to show.

I took out a bunch of stuff that even after only 11 days I could tell would never produce anything other than larfy buds that no one wants to deal with.
It's not even the smoking of larfy buds or using it as trim its just the damn trimming and the waste of time and energy for the plant and myself

The lights are officially at 100% not only because the buds have started but I have noticed that they won't be an issue in regard to heat.
This brings me to my next and last point I would like to detail.

My environment was something that really worried me. I wasn't sure if it would hold up in the heat of the summer.
I purchased the swamp cooler, and the obvious issues worried me about it but it was my only option.
We've had a couple days get hot and I was watching the temps and humidity like a hawk!

Even when I'm away the ACI pro controller allows me to view via Wi-Fi and I can monitor at least 1 tent 24 hours a day.

When the temp in the grow room reaches above 82* the swamp cooler kicks on to cool the garage. The dehumidifier is running 24/7 to keep the humidity always low.
This allows the swamp cooler to cool the air more effectively. It also helps to keep humidity low so that while the swamp cooler is on and adding humidity it's never too high to hurt anything.
As an added precaution and really helpful plus, keeping the garage door cracked open with a now useless gallon of PH up allows old air and excess humidity to be removed by the intake for the home A/C that is directly above the door that's cracked open.
This keeps the VPD consistent and in the perfect range practically all the time.

On a couple of the days I realized we could afford a little bit more heat and still be right in range of where we want to be.

This is a MAJOR relief.
It means this is now officially a 12-month operation with no days off no holidays/sick time or benefit package!

Last thing I want to note is that although the stretch was as I expected very short and to the point it was much more significant this time around.
I have to assume this is because of the much larger soil volume that they felt they could support more and grew larger?
The par is 1000+ is some spots and the plants are producing same as they have in the past...

Better actually thanks to the XS1500 PRO's I think with more soil and superior lighting they are showing what they can really do!

I'm super excited to see how this grow plays out everything has been going as smooth as could be imagined!

OOOH yea as I was selecting pictures, I remembered I was sent a few sticker packs from @ViparSpectra I was wanting them seeing them in everyone's tents, and they literally showed up in the mail!
The tents are finally COMPLETE!

I hope I hit on everything and brought us up to date I will have another update with pictures tomorrow, after I wake up from my hangover Im sure to get drinking te"killya" tonight

Stay safe everyone Enjoy your weekend and as always THANK YOU for your time its appreciated as always!

Still Spectacular.
Great update.
Hope your doing well my friend.
Take care.




#VIVOSUN #Love What You Grow
Bill284

 

[KeithLemon]

Hello & Welcome ​

So, today's update is on Pest Management.

I have been battling with fungus gnats since I opened my first bag of soil.
I should have returned the bag the moment I noticed they were in the soil prior to planting my seeds.
Its spread plant to plant, tent to tent now for generations now.

I've done just about everything in response with mixed results.
I think my biggest problem has been not finishing them off when I've gotten them on the ropes. Slowly but surely, they make their way back eventually.

My latest bit of moves were considered when I purchased the soil, but timing caused me to hold off a bit.
I needed to ensure that both beds were in place and alive.
The 4x3 has a cover crop going and I'm expecting plants to be transplanted into that tent Sunday.

There is a minimal presence of FG in the 4x3 but the 4x2 is full on infested. Which is expected considering that's where all the life is at right now.
So, to once and for all put an end to this constant struggle and bring some balance to my ecosystem I purchased a beneficial insect pack. It was always in the plans to purchase this pack again timing played a major part.

I want to preface this by saying I'm not a big fan of bugs the fact that I have worms in my soil and a worm bin I'm starting is soooooo out of my element.
Also, I thought it to be a little counter intuitive to add bugs to remove bugs. But I did a bit of homework, some reading a couple podcast and YT vids.
I also came across a podcast where they had Suzanne Wainwright-Evans AKA "The Bug Lady" on and listening to her speak about the uses of them in the garden and their place in LOS really sold me on the idea.
Mind you most of this is direct from the website. MOST if not all the words confuse me. This is not how I understand it!
It made much better sense hearing it broken down in layman's terms. But for the sake of the journal and being as transparent as possible here it is.

The Beneficial Insect Triple Pack (Medium) contains:

• Rove Beetle (1000 Beetles)
• Steinernema Feltiae Nematodes (50 Mil Tray)
• Stratiolaelaps Scimitus (Hypoaspis Miles) (1 liter bottle - 25,000)

Rove Beetle

Rove beetle (Dalotia coriaria), formerly known as Atheta coriaria, is a native species of a soil-dwelling rove beetle which feeds on small insects and mites. Both adults and larvae are active aggressive predators and are attracted to decomposing plant or animal material and algae, where their hosts are found. While they are beetles, they do not necessarily look like beetles. They are light to dark brown in color, with adults being 3-4 mm long. They are slender with short wing covers. Rove beetles have an interesting habit of curving their abdomen upwards like scorpions and can run or fly when disturbed (usually close to the ground). Since they can actively fly, they rapidly colonize the release area. However, too many Atheta in flight may be because of disturbance to their home.

Use in Biological Control: Rove beetles are used primarily to assist in the control of shore flies and fungus gnats and other small arthropods in the soil or planting media. They also help control soil stages of thrips and feed on most other small soil organisms such as moth flies, springtails, and root mealybugs.

It has been used successfully in vegetable, bedding and potted plant production and seedling and cutting propagation. Atheta adapts well to the various growth media (including rockwool and coconut fiber) and capillary mats used in plant production. They will not survive freezing or flooding conditions.

Life Cycle: The complete life cycle of rove beetles is 21 days at 70°F (21°C), with relative humidity between 40 and 99%. The sex ratio is an equal, 1:1 female to males. Eggs hatch in 3-4 days into larvae, which resemble adults. Pupal chambers are constructed out of silk. Each adult rove beetle consumes 10-20 prey per day. In greenhouse conditions, adults are non-diapausing and can be used year-round.

For Best Results: Rove beetle is most effective when applications are started before fungus gnat population becomes well established or while numbers are still low (less than one seen in a trap, per week). One application of Atheta per crop cycle is usually sufficient if started early in the season. Because rove beetle has a longer life cycle and takes longer to establish than the Stratiolaelaps predatory mite, so should be used along with Stratiolaelaps for best results.

Introduction Rates: Rove beetle is most effective when applications are started before fungus gnat populations become well established or while numbers are still low (below 10 per trap, per week). One application of rove beetle per crop cycle is usually sufficient if started early in the season. For soil culture, sawdust bag, or rockwool culture, apply 1 per 10 ft2 (1 m 2 ).

Target Pests: Shore flies (Ephydridae), fungus gnats (Sciaridae), western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis), root aphids

Do not water soil or growing medium 10 minutes before and a few hours after release. To release, rotate the canister (to distribute beetles inside), then open the lid and release in centrally located area where major infestation is onto damp soil (only open when ready to release as they may fly away). Also distribute on floors, greenhouse weeds, under benches, and places where larvae will develop. Leave the canister on its side in the treatment area to ensure release of all mites. Release in the evening or late afternoon within 4 days of being received. Store canister on its side at 45-55° F.


Nematodes

Steinernema Feltiae Nematodes arrive ready-to-use. Just add to water and apply to the soil or growing media with virtually any watering device!

NemAttack Sf (Steinernema feltiae) Beneficial Nematodes are recommended to control and prevent mobile pests such as:

Fungus gnats, ticks, thrips, leaf miners, caterpillars, cutworms, sod webworms, onion maggots, subterranean termites. American cockroach, armyworm, artichoke plume moth, Asian cockroach, beet armyworm, cabbage maggots, black cutworm, bluegrass weevil, codling moth, corn earworm, cotton bollworm, cucumber beetle, fall armyworm, fly larvae, fruit fly, German cockroach, mole crickets, tobacco budworm, wireworm and more.

Beneficial Nematodes are live microscopic organisms (non-segmented round worms) that occur naturally in soil throughout the world. They are parasitic to insect pests that typically have a developing (larval or pupal) stage of life in the soil; however, they have been known to also parasitize above ground stages of adults, nymphs and larvae. They are completely safe to use and will not affect mammals, aquatic life, birds, reptiles or amphibians. After application, the nematodes immediately get to work. Upon finding a pest, they enter it through various body openings or directly through the body wall. Once inside, it is not the nematode that actually kills the pest, but the toxic bacteria inside the nematode's gut that is the real weapon symbiotic bacteria, that when released inside and insect, kill it within 24 - 48 hours by causing blood poisoning.

Beneficial Nematodes release the bacteria in order to create food and a hospitable environment for their own reproduction. As the food resources within the dead pest become scarce, the nematodes exit and immediately begin searching for a new host. As long as there is a suitable host, they will continue to survive and parasitize.

How Much Do I Need? Order enough to thoroughly treat your infested area. Some pests require multiple, separate treatments. Quantities and treatment areas are approximate.

Garden Size	Quantity	Treatment Area	Shipping Method
1/2 Garden Size	5 million	1,600 sq. ft.	2nd Day
Garden Size	10 million	3,200 sq. ft.	2nd Day
Farm Size	50 million	1 Acre	2nd Day
Small Ranch Size	250 million	5 Acres	Next Day
Large Ranch Size	500 million	10 Acres

This Product Controls These Pests or Diseases:
This product works as a beneficial insect for control of the following: Fleas, Flies (mult), Fruit Flys (Drasophylla), Fungus Gnats (Bradysia impatiens), Gnats, Thrips (Franklinothrips sp)

Useful Info:

Warning & Toxicities: Do not freeze.

Shelf Life: Up to 2 weeks (refrigerated and unopened in original container).

How to Use:

How long can nematodes be kept before use?
Beneficial Nematodes should be used as soon as possible. Because they are live organisms, it is best to store them for no longer than 2 weeks in a refrigerator that is between 37° and 42° F.

How are nematodes applied?
The solution can be applied using a watering can, hose end sprayer, backpack or pump sprayer or through irrigation or misting systems.

When should they be released?
Release early in the morning or predusk when temperatures are cooler and the sun is not so bright.

Should the soil be moist after the nematode application?
The soil should be moist at time of application and lightly watered immediately after application. After application, regular watering of the treated area will provide sufficient moisture. Generally speaking, water every 3-4 days if rainfall does not occur.

What's the Application Rate?
It is best to make at least two applications, separated by 7-10 days in order to stagger the life cycles of the nematodes and to assure complete coverage. In cases of severe infestations, applications should be made every 7-10 days or until infestation subsides.

Garden Size​	Quantity​	Treatment Area​
1/2 Garden Backyard Size	5 million	1,600 sq. ft.
Garden Size	10 million	3,200 sq. ft.
Farm Size	50 million	1 Acre
Small Ranch Size	250 million	5 Acres
Large Ranch Size	500 million	10 Acres

How long does it take to see results?
In general 3-7 days for caterpillars such as cutworm, armyworm and sod webworm. For grubs and weevils such as Japanese beetle, black vine weevil and billbugs feeding stops within 3 days with maximum control occurring over 2-4 weeks. Nematodes disintegrate the pests from the inside out. You will not see dead insect bodies as you would with a chemical knockdown.

How often should nematodes be applied?
Nematodes are recommended for use whenever larvae or grubs are present. Generally, this is during the spring and fall months. Because larvae feed on plant roots, beneath the soil surface, severe damage can be done before realizing there is a problem. Look for signs of an adult insect, such as leaf-notching. If adult insects are present, their eggs will be hatching soon. Keep in mind, one application may not eradicate a population of insects that has become established over a period of years.

Will nematodes live through the winter?
In general, harsh winter weather in most parts of the country almost guarantees a significant decline in the population of the nematodes. In most cases, nematodes (just like insects) will become dormant during cold weather. Any survivors would be few in number to provide adequate insect control. If your insect pest returns the following year, another application may be necessary.

When nematodes are applied to one area will they move to other areas?
Nematodes, due to their microscopic nature have limited range of movement. Generally NemAttack™, our formulations of Steinernema will stay where you put them, but NemaSeek™ (Heterorhabditis) will continue moving through the soil until they find a pest to infect.


Brown mites

For Developing Soil Stage Control of Thrips, Fungus Gnats and Springtails.

This tiny brown mite naturally inhabits the top layer of soil where larvae and pupae dwell. Female predatory mites lay their eggs in soil and the nymphs and adults feed on pests. If infestation is severe, use along with Beneficial Nematodes and Sticky Traps.

Release rates:

Type of Application​	Release Rate​
General Releases​	5,000-10,000 S. scimitus per 1,000 ft2 depending on level of infestation.
Large Area Releases​	25,000-50,000 S. scimitus per acre depending on level of infestation.
Weekly applications are recommended until infestations subside. Please call for more information.​

This Product Controls These Pests or Diseases: Bean Thrips (Caliothrips fasciatus), Fungus Gnats (Bradysia impatiens), Springtails, Thrips (Franklinothrips spp)

Useful Info:

Shelf Life: Use within 18 hours of receipt. Do not water soil or growing medium 10 minutes before and a few hours after release. To release, rotate the canister (to distribute mites inside), then open the lid and remove the filter paper. Place the lid back on, and tap the mites out of the canister evenly onto the soil. Also distribute on floors, greenhouse weeds, under benches, and places where fungus gnat larvae will develop. Leave the canister and filter paper in the treatment area to ensure release of all mites. Release in the evening or late afternoon within 2 weeks of being received. Store canister on its side at 60-70° F.

How to Use:

General Applications: Incorporate mites into growing media at potting or sprinkle onto growing media surface. Rotate tube several times before opening to mix contents. To open lid, push the cut-out on the lid where marked. Rotate lid cover to fully open position for application. Shake tube slowly to dispense mixture onto the surface of growing media; mites will quickly distribute uniformly through crop.

Environment: Outdoors, Crops, Orchards & Vineyards, Nursery, Greenhouse, Grow Room, Interior scapes, Container Plants

Storage: If not releasing immediately, keep in a cool dark place out of direct sunlight. Do not refrigerate. Top layer of soil, in a shaded area. 77°F

So, in preparation of the bugs getting here I let the beds go without full waterings, only giving about 5% or 3.5 gallons over the past week.

Wednesday, I went and purchased some 100% organic cold pressed neem oil I mixed 1 ounce with a gallon of water. and sprayed down all the tents.

I just went to the hardware store garden dept and honestly is pretty sad, but this was the first time I ever read the back of label and actually cared what it said.
It made me realize I need to employ this level of scrutiny to every aspect of life. I probably eat more chemicals than I eat food and its pretty sad.
As the can started to empty and become a misty fog, I made sure to use that to hit the canopy a little bit.

Thursday, I gave a slight "feed" of about 2 gallons of water to the soil bed. Looking at the application instructions for the mites and beetles they are not to be watered "10 minutes prior or hours after".
So I watered the day prior to avoid any issues.






I split the bags fairly evenly between both soil beds.
The 2x4 was off so I unzipped the tent up to the top of the bed to avoid as much light leak as possible dumped them in and worked the peatmoss carrier under the mulch layer a bit.

I also put a tiny bit into my PBK1 Mother plant in my veg tent.
Speaking of my veg tent I found someone to take my extra clones off my hands!
Thankfully they have a new home I hate killing healthy plants!



This opens up room in my mother tent for the mothers of my next journal which I plan to start the next day or 2,
as well as for vegging plants for subsequent rounds in our soil beds.

I plan to water in the nematodes tonight when I check on the plants.
This allows the beetles and mites to take on the adults and bring their numbers down over the past day or 2.
Now we will attack their young on a microscopic level!

Sunday starts week 2 from the flip! Going forward Sundays are IPM days.
Cleaning of the grow area inside and out.
Spraying for pest and additional treatments if need be.
This will help to gather myself and what happened in the previous week as well as make adjustments for the coming weeks.

This grow from the beginning has been about the 5 P's

Proper
Planning
Prevents
Poor
Performance

I'm doing my best to stay not only on top but ahead of this grow as much as possible. I feel like that's gotten easier with the change in grow style and with the experience or "rust" as I like to put it getting knocked off.

I plan to give another top dressing of "Build a Flower top dress" at week 3 and possibly brew a compost tea with it to really ramp up the biology in the soil as we go into flower this week or week 3 as well.
There are no pistils just yet but having grown this strain twice now I know that once they start the swelling and sugar start immediately after and won't stop for another 6 weeks just before we harvest at week 9ish.

Other than that, things are coasting smoothly under the XS1500 Pro. They are currently set to 75% and once I see buds forming will crank them up to 100% and really see what they can do.
This entire grow I've taken a less is more approach and these lights truly fit the build and allow for that!
If you're looking for new lights these are the way to go!
If I didn't already own 2 XS2000's I would daisy chain 4 of these to put in the 4x3!

As always thank you for your time and checking me out its appreciated!

How long will these bugs live and will they multiply.

 

[lootznbootz]

How long will these bugs live and will they multiply.

Here is the info I have on each.

Rove beetles
Life Cycle: The complete life cycle of rove beetles is 21 days at 70°F (21°C), with relative humidity between 40 and 99%. The sex ratio is an equal, 1:1 female to males. Eggs hatch in 3-4 days into larvae, which resemble adults. Pupal chambers are constructed out of silk. Each adult rove beetle consumes 10-20 prey per day. In greenhouse conditions, adults are non-diapausing and can be used year-round.

Nematodes
Beneficial Nematodes release the bacteria in order to create food and a hospitable environment for their own reproduction. As the food resources within the dead pest become scarce, the nematodes exit and immediately begin searching for a new host. As long as there is a suitable host, they will continue to survive and parasitize.

I do not have any info on the brown mite life cycle but I’m just waking up and still in bed let me get a bowl and some coffee and I can look up the brown mite life cycle.

In all I do expect them to multiply given they still have prey to feed on.
And considering how I don’t plan on stopping the grow or letting my soil dry and lay dormant I expect them to be a constant in the grow.

 

[lootznbootz]

How long will these bugs live and will they multiply.

Here is what I found on the mites

Life Cycle: The complete life cycle takes about 18 days at 68°F (20°C). The sex ratio is an equal 1:1, females to males. Eggs hatch in 2-3 days into young nymphs, which are also fierce predators that consume eggs and small larvae. Each adult Stratiolaelaps will consume 1-5 prey per day.

 

[lootznbootz]

Goodmorning 420

Couple of pictures from last night.

I gave the bed the 4 gallons of tea I brewed up.

Nothing much else to report.

Everything going as planned the buds have started to set in and the stretch seems to be over.

 

[AspenCultivator]

Hey Lootz! Looking really nice in there, the direction you've taken this grow after your previous ones is awesome to witness. You put a lot of detail in your journals, so it makes it easier for others to come in the future and learn a thing or three. Really well done!

I also went ahead and did another defoil and gave them a lollipop for being such good sports!
I kind of struggled to do it as early as I did since it hasn't even been a full 2 weeks since flipping to flower.

Could you expand on this a little bit? I've known about defoling during certain times, and I've seen the advice to not do it too early or too late. I found with my most recent grow on the alaskan purple and blueberries, there really wasn't a 'right time' to get it done. Like you mentioned, I also saw humidity build-up and decided to defol whenever it appeared. Is the timing on defols something that's important enough to pay attention to?

 

[lootznbootz]

Hey Lootz! Looking really nice in there, the direction you've taken this grow after your previous ones is awesome to witness. You put a lot of detail in your journals, so it makes it easier for others to come in the future and learn a thing or three. Really well done!

Wow thank you!
That means a lot to me that you and others I’m sure appreciate it!
I’ve learned so much from this website, the journals that I’ve followed and the dialogue with members all over the site.

My main goal outside of documenting for myself later was for others and to give back to the community that taught me!
So it’s awesome to hear someone else see that potential in my journal!
Thank you again!

Could you expand on this a little bit? I've known about defoling during certain times, and I've seen the advice to not do it too early or too late. I found with my most recent grow on the alaskan purple and blueberries, there really wasn't a 'right time' to get it done. Like you mentioned, I also saw humidity build-up and decided to defol whenever it appeared. Is the timing on defols something that's important enough to pay attention to?

So yea I was speaking about the general advice or common way of thinking I guess is just before going into flower and then again at 21 days.
But as I said every situation is different and although that might be the best time for what the plant needs normally…
How close to normal is your situation?

And so that’s why I said it’s more about what your plants need and when.
I think it’s important to keep those important pillars of information in the back of your mind but only to be used as a guideline.

It’s also strain specific as well.

For instance if this was the PGC2 from my last 2 grows I would strip before flower and then I wouldn’t touch it because she was very picky and seemed to stress out from defoil to the point of going hermie.

So I think there are so many factors that go into the specific situation that following the general info or common practices may not always be exactly what’s right for this grow at the time.

If I would have waited until day 21 could you imagine the amount of leaves and Larfy bud sites I’d have to strip out?
And then it again depends on the strain.
At 21 days this strain will have some decent buds set in and we should have frost starting. I don’t want to be pulling branches and too many leaves when she’s building buds and resins I want her to continue focusing on that.

This is strain specific because idk how my other strains flower out yet so I’ll probably stick to the normal rule of thumb more closely with those and then use that info for next time.

God I hope all of that makes sense and I didn’t just ramble a bunch of confusing nonsense

 

[AspenCultivator]

Nah it totally made sense to me! And cool, everything you said is more or less how I looked at it. Just because it's "advised" to do it one way doesn't mean it needs to happen in that way every time. Especially when it comes to looking at the plant and reading what should or shouldn't happen.

Great response!

 

[InTheShed]

The grow is looking great and good job with the neem oil to compliment all the beneficial insects! Any reason that mosquito dunks (BTI) weren't your first approach? Completely organic kills the larvae below the soil.

 

[lootznbootz]

The grow is looking great and good job with the neem oil to compliment all the beneficial insects! Any reason that mosquito dunks (BTI) weren't your first approach? Completely organic kills the larvae below the soil.

Hey Shed thank you!
BTI was suggested to me a few times. I actually have some dunks in my arsenal.
I think when I initially used them on my first diy sip I used them incorrectly and didn't see results that everyone sees.
Eventually I found my way to these soil beds, and they make sense in more ways than just pest control.
So, no reason other than my improper use of them, I guess.

 

[InTheShed]

Whenever anyone is having trouble with gnats or dunks, I post @Carcass' instructions:

"I just throw 1/4 of a dunk in the 5 gallon bucket every 3 weeks or so to keep the gnats away...
If I have an active gnat infestation, I'll use half a dunk in the bucket for a little more killing power, then
I go back to 1/4 of a dunk to keep the growspace gnat-free...
A quarter of a dunk is equal to 1 tbsp. of the bits, if you decide to do it this way.

The reason I do it this way is that it takes 24 hours for the bacteria from the dunks to populate the water, and I don't want to have to fill a gallon jug 24 hours in advance of when I water the plant, so I just treat 5 gallons at a time, and the water is always ready to use."

 

[lootznbootz]

Whenever anyone is having trouble with gnats or dunks, I post @Carcass' instructions:

"I just throw 1/4 of a dunk in the 5 gallon bucket every 3 weeks or so to keep the gnats away...
If I have an active gnat infestation, I'll use half a dunk in the bucket for a little more killing power, then
I go back to 1/4 of a dunk to keep the growspace gnat-free...
A quarter of a dunk is equal to 1 tbsp. of the bits, if you decide to do it this way.

The reason I do it this way is that it takes 24 hours for the bacteria from the dunks to populate the water, and I don't want to have to fill a gallon jug 24 hours in advance of when I water the plant, so I just treat 5 gallons at a time, and the water is always ready to use."

Thank You for this!

 

[lootznbootz]

Goodmorning 420!

Some pictures from last night.
I’ve been working a lot so some days I don’t get to the garden for a whole day.
When I opened the tent last night I was very surprised!

It seems all 3 plants were not “done” stretching.
This is very unexpected as this strain the last 2 grows has stayed the smallest and had the shortest stretch.
I can only think that the much larger soil bed has allowed them to really stretch out!

yesterday was day 14 of flower so it needs to be over I’m out of space to raise the lights but getting amazing penetration.

I gave the bed a gallon of plain water yesterday as well as by looking at the irrometer the plants are moving the needle regularly now.
The irrometer is so helpful it’s really helping to show me what and how the plants are drinking.
Now I know for a fact I’m not over or under watered and the plants are showing their appreciation for it!

I plan on doing one more defoil in a few days when I know for sure the stretch is over!

I may be vegging for even less time with these soil beds going forward
I swear I thought I flipped at the perfect time to avoid oversized plants in the grow space.
Don’t get me wrong I love the way it looks and I think it has the potential to be a net filled with large buds but damn
Anyway
The buds are now visible. And I think I saw a bit of frost just trying to start.

Thank you for stopping in and checking me out!
Hope everyone has a great Monday to start off a better week!

 

[InTheShed]

That is one lush jungle you're growing lootz, looks amazing in there!

 

[lootznbootz]

That is one lush jungle you're growing lootz, looks amazing in there!

Thanks shed!

Think I’m finding my groove here…
We’ll see!

 

[Cola Monster]

Thanks shed!

Think I’m finding my groove here…
We’ll see!

I'm with Shed! The girls are looking fantastic lootz. Great job!

 

[lootznbootz]

I'm with Shed! The girls are looking fantastic lootz. Great job!

Thank you! I appreciate it!

 

[lootznbootz]

Just a photo bomb from last night

Day 15 from the flip

Getting crowded in their defoil coming in the next few days.

Frost has started so hopefully opening the tent tonight they aren’t any taller and I can start pulling the final pull of larfy growth I don’t plan on keeping.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

[InTheShed]

So bushy! With the defol you might free up some space to supercrop.

 

[lootznbootz]

So bushy! With the defol you might free up some space to supercrop.

Looking at a couple of the tops yesterday I think I may have to supercrop them to keep them away from the lights some of em are about 6 to 8 inches or so away.
No visible damage noticed yet but I’d rather stay ahead of it while it’s possible.

Couple more days/another week and bending will be almost impossible without snapping something.