Conradino23 Keeps On Keeping On Outdoor & Indoor Using LOS/High Brix Methods

I can see that word got around. It should work really well for high brix produce. I've been doing it for years!
 
Chop day for BH #2. She started to hermie by the end and the last few days I've been plucking new nanners every day, but she was ready. She smells mostly like orange fuel with strong note of leather and a hint of camphor.









:lot-o-toke:
 
Looking good Con! Lots of frost on that girl.

I'm loving the buzz from mine. It's a different buzz from all the sativas I normally run. Very nice body numbing and happy feel, but there's no sleepiness in it at all. Great buzz to sit and chill.

Also excellent mixed in a joint with some Zamadelica. :ganjamon:
 
It’s a very nice smoke, very tasty too. Heavier than BH # 1 much more couchlocky like classic Afghani.
 
Congrats on the cut.. Looks like she should be tasty... Was it a fem seed?

Still acouple little flowers at the end are pretty common. Hell they'll smoke too.....

Enjoy...
 
Yeah tester tasted something like orange soda from my bong. She’s very intense that one and really stinks up the place after harvest. I figured these nanners were kinda chop me down already call, but not something I saw coming. This is Hash Plant leaner and can be easily found in a 5 pack. Yeah it’s feminised line (Katsu BK x 90’s Hash Plant) available from Ace. Both plants were very quick in my setup, that one was done in 48 days.
 
Mg and K deficiency I think got me into a bit of heat stress with Bubbas. I’m trying to focus a bit more on sulphur this time to see how much that’ll change the smell and the taste. I’m actually thinking about getting some synthetic support, cause it’s hard to get a few chemicals in the right concentration naturally and you just can’t fight genetics... this’ll probably be added to the next run.

I think you are on the right course, and that's the same conclusion I came to. Although I think that when you use the synths for support, that alone should improve taste and flavor, if deficiencies were limiting them prior, whether you add extra S or not. Any deficiency along the way, takes a tiny toll. Maturity of flower, and density of nutrients needs to happen before you'll get the correct smells, flavor and effect. The studies of plant nutrition theory that you posted earlier speaks to why. Great thread :Namaste:
 
I don’t really get many deficiencies apart of nitrogen in mid to late bloom, but I need something to let them transition without any bumps from veg to bloom. Usually various OG/Chemdawg hybrids start losing the ground around that time while they do very well in veg. A mild dose of salts might be something they expect here, so it’s worth giving it a try
 
Congrats on your harvest. Always a good day when plants on the hook.

Sorry for my late reply on the watering thing.

I've got 2 automated watering systems. 1 VEG and 1 Flower

I let the VEG room go dry and re-fill ... I noticed that my VEG plants dont like getting dry feet. I start to see issues with lack of nutrients.

They seem to grow a lot faster when they have full access to water 24/7. Thats just what I see in VEG. In flower they always have access to water. I also have a lot of air movement going on. Is faster better? How does it affect the produce?

I like faster. Con you did 48 days on your last plant. That's what I like to see. I think availability of enzymes in the soil for the microbes help this faster finish times.


I add in a fair amount of Gypsum into my soil mix so Sulfur is there.
I amend every few years with more along with rock dusts. But not a lot.

I'm running 91 Star (Chem variant) again this round - she wasn't happy in the heat +30C and decently high RH +60%. Looked to me like she wanted more Ca. I gave her some Llama poop water. lol she's bouncing back. I'm ignoring her due to hermies from the heat. Ffs. I'm going to stick my head in the sand and hope for the best.





Did the automated watering run off digi timers? I would think a mech timer @15 min intervals would be way too much for a soil pot. If need be, I can dust off the Arduino and some relay strips and program feedings in fractions of a gallon as needed. Did you try automated times bob?

I use a system called AutoPot - has a res (100 gal) runs into btm watering trays. The pots or bags need to have about 2" of clay/stones in the btm of the container. The pots or bags sit in the tray of water that has a float valve. Plants drink water float valve sinks plants get more water. The water only sits in the stones/clay balls not in the soil. There's membrane that keeps tap roots from getting into the tray. They for sure get into the clay balls.

After transplanting into those pots, it takes about 24-36 hrs for the roots to find the water. Then the plants take off growing. I only top water by hand if I need to add in something like kelp tea. The last several rounds I've only been adding in a 1 tbs of Llama poop with a cup of water 1x a week but I think that's just for me. lol

All I do it fill the reservoir. Here where we live now I need to filter my water so I got it rigged up to a hose and a filter. I could add timer to the hose but I've been ok without it.

Future plan is to get rain water rig set up to use a rain barrel. They have auto shut off when the barrel gets full. Then just use the same equipment. I'd be able to add barrels if I need to.

Right now I'm using RO water so its not free like rain is. We use the rain water for VEG plants/gardens hand watering. Flowering plants drink a lot of water every day. I fill the 100 gal res every 6-8 days (10 plants) this time of year with full size plants in flower. So they are drinking between 1-2 gal every day. Landrace Sativa drink more, but likely due to larger bio-mass. :surf:
 
I use a system called AutoPot - has a res (100 gal) runs into btm watering trays. The pots or bags need to have about 2" of clay/stones in the btm of the container. The pots or bags sit in the tray of water that has a float valve. Plants drink water float valve sinks plants get more water. The water only sits in the stones/clay balls not in the soil. There's membrane that keeps tap roots from getting into the tray. They for sure get into the clay balls.

After transplanting into those pots, it takes about 24-36 hrs for the roots to find the water. Then the plants take off growing. I only top water by hand if I need to add in something like kelp tea. The last several rounds I've only been adding in a 1 tbs of Llama poop with a cup of water 1x a week but I think that's just for me. lol

All I do it fill the reservoir. Here where we live now I need to filter my water so I got it rigged up to a hose and a filter. I could add timer to the hose but I've been ok without it.

Future plan is to get rain water rig set up to use a rain barrel. They have auto shut off when the barrel gets full. Then just use the same equipment. I'd be able to add barrels if I need to.

Right now I'm using RO water so its not free like rain is. We use the rain water for VEG plants/gardens hand watering. Flowering plants drink a lot of water every day. I fill the 100 gal res every 6-8 days (10 plants) this time of year with full size plants in flower. So they are drinking between 1-2 gal every day. Landrace Sativa drink more, but likely due to larger bio-mass. :surf:

So you have a pot of soil on a never ending supply of water below, how is this not hydro, or at least a hybrid?
 
Congrats on your harvest. Always a good day when plants on the hook.

Sorry for my late reply on the watering thing.

I've got 2 automated watering systems. 1 VEG and 1 Flower

I let the VEG room go dry and re-fill ... I noticed that my VEG plants dont like getting dry feet. I start to see issues with lack of nutrients.

They seem to grow a lot faster when they have full access to water 24/7. Thats just what I see in VEG. In flower they always have access to water. I also have a lot of air movement going on. Is faster better? How does it affect the produce?

I like faster. Con you did 48 days on your last plant. That's what I like to see. I think availability of enzymes in the soil for the microbes help this faster finish times.


I add in a fair amount of Gypsum into my soil mix so Sulfur is there.
I amend every few years with more along with rock dusts. But not a lot.

I'm running 91 Star (Chem variant) again this round - she wasn't happy in the heat +30C and decently high RH +60%. Looked to me like she wanted more Ca. I gave her some Llama poop water. lol she's bouncing back. I'm ignoring her due to hermies from the heat. Ffs. I'm going to stick my head in the sand and hope for the best.







I use a system called AutoPot - has a res (100 gal) runs into btm watering trays. The pots or bags need to have about 2" of clay/stones in the btm of the container. The pots or bags sit in the tray of water that has a float valve. Plants drink water float valve sinks plants get more water. The water only sits in the stones/clay balls not in the soil. There's membrane that keeps tap roots from getting into the tray. They for sure get into the clay balls.

After transplanting into those pots, it takes about 24-36 hrs for the roots to find the water. Then the plants take off growing. I only top water by hand if I need to add in something like kelp tea. The last several rounds I've only been adding in a 1 tbs of Llama poop with a cup of water 1x a week but I think that's just for me. lol

All I do it fill the reservoir. Here where we live now I need to filter my water so I got it rigged up to a hose and a filter. I could add timer to the hose but I've been ok without it.

Future plan is to get rain water rig set up to use a rain barrel. They have auto shut off when the barrel gets full. Then just use the same equipment. I'd be able to add barrels if I need to.

Right now I'm using RO water so its not free like rain is. We use the rain water for VEG plants/gardens hand watering. Flowering plants drink a lot of water every day. I fill the 100 gal res every 6-8 days (10 plants) this time of year with full size plants in flower. So they are drinking between 1-2 gal every day. Landrace Sativa drink more, but likely due to larger bio-mass. :surf:

So you have a pot of soil on a never ending supply of water below, how is this not hydro, or at least a hybrid?

Yeah it sounds like a nice hybrid system... I’d definitely run on a drip anything larger than a regular room.

As you know I’m an air-pot man and has been since 2009, cause I just haven’t found anything better for the soil and organic soil specifically... I’d like to run raised brds indoor one day though :)

So with peat they’d drink shitloads of water, but cause it’s real soil in veg I water once in 10-14 days, cause roots are too small to want more and I really restrict nitrogen until they hit mid veg. Yeah slower way of vegging works better for me... but the pace of growth is really about root space, so it’s hard to compete with outdoor where plants can grow one foot a week.

I’ve always managed to flower them quite quickly indoor and in sun dep situation. There are three tricks for the speed bloom: nitrogen levels, photoperiod and the full spectrum or anything close to that with pronounced red end.

I like to think that sleepy/narcotic plants should flower quickly and I couldn’t say it has anything to do with quality. It’s just how this plant was bred or how it evolved.

Hmmm in flowering they always drink more, but I don’t think they’d be happy being watered every day. Recently I’ve been trying watering over 12-24 hrs with a few litres here and few litres after, but once you saturate the soil then you need to let them drink this water.... I also like to dry finish them, which works pretty well for most of the plants.
 
What's your opinion about cutting soil with rock wool croutons? In a few months, I will be getting into a peat based soil and was thinking of maybe tossing in a few cubes to function as flavor savers? I also intend to clone in rock wool, then grow them in rock wool in a solo cup till they're about a foot tall, then put them in dirt. My thought is I can take advantage of more vigorous growth with rooted clones, plus I can more easily build a robust root zone quickly in hydro.
 
It’s an idea, that’ll probably work well if you clone in rockwool. You just need to find out. It’ll definitely give you more aeration and water holding capacity.
 
Congrats on your harvest. Always a good day when plants on the hook.

Sorry for my late reply on the watering thing.

I've got 2 automated watering systems. 1 VEG and 1 Flower

I let the VEG room go dry and re-fill ... I noticed that my VEG plants dont like getting dry feet. I start to see issues with lack of nutrients.

They seem to grow a lot faster when they have full access to water 24/7. Thats just what I see in VEG. In flower they always have access to water. I also have a lot of air movement going on. Is faster better? How does it affect the produce?

I like faster. Con you did 48 days on your last plant. That's what I like to see. I think availability of enzymes in the soil for the microbes help this faster finish times.


I add in a fair amount of Gypsum into my soil mix so Sulfur is there.
I amend every few years with more along with rock dusts. But not a lot.

I'm running 91 Star (Chem variant) again this round - she wasn't happy in the heat +30C and decently high RH +60%. Looked to me like she wanted more Ca. I gave her some Llama poop water. lol she's bouncing back. I'm ignoring her due to hermies from the heat. Ffs. I'm going to stick my head in the sand and hope for the best.





Did the automated watering run off digi timers? I would think a mech timer @15 min intervals would be way too much for a soil pot. If need be, I can dust off the Arduino and some relay strips and program feedings in fractions of a gallon as needed. Did you try automated times bob?

I use a system called AutoPot - has a res (100 gal) runs into btm watering trays. The pots or bags need to have about 2" of clay/stones in the btm of the container. The pots or bags sit in the tray of water that has a float valve. Plants drink water float valve sinks plants get more water. The water only sits in the stones/clay balls not in the soil. There's membrane that keeps tap roots from getting into the tray. They for sure get into the clay balls.

After transplanting into those pots, it takes about 24-36 hrs for the roots to find the water. Then the plants take off growing. I only top water by hand if I need to add in something like kelp tea. The last several rounds I've only been adding in a 1 tbs of Llama poop with a cup of water 1x a week but I think that's just for me. lol

All I do it fill the reservoir. Here where we live now I need to filter my water so I got it rigged up to a hose and a filter. I could add timer to the hose but I've been ok without it.

Future plan is to get rain water rig set up to use a rain barrel. They have auto shut off when the barrel gets full. Then just use the same equipment. I'd be able to add barrels if I need to.

Right now I'm using RO water so its not free like rain is. We use the rain water for VEG plants/gardens hand watering. Flowering plants drink a lot of water every day. I fill the 100 gal res every 6-8 days (10 plants) this time of year with full size plants in flower. So they are drinking between 1-2 gal every day. Landrace Sativa drink more, but likely due to larger bio-mass. :surf:

I have big plants that don't really fit in my grow space anymore. Running mainly clones or seeds of previous plants I've grown. So getting bigger each round.
 
What's your opinion about cutting soil with rock wool croutons? In a few months, I will be getting into a peat based soil and was thinking of maybe tossing in a few cubes to function as flavor savers? I also intend to clone in rock wool, then grow them in rock wool in a solo cup till they're about a foot tall, then put them in dirt. My thought is I can take advantage of more vigorous growth with rooted clones, plus I can more easily build a robust root zone quickly in hydro.
That will build a system of hydro roots. Those are different than the roots that plants grow in soil though. It'll still have to convert it's root system when you go from water to soil.
 
That will build a system of hydro roots. Those are different than the roots that plants grow in soil though. It'll still have to convert it's root system when you go from water to soil.

Can you foresee any problems if the plant in soil has a hydro root core? I'm thinking a Solo cup's worth of rockwool at the Tootsie center of 10 gallons of soil at least. Adding rockwool to dirt as if it were stones I think would improve drainage and keep the soil from compacting, but I'm hoping I can shorten the time it takes after drenching a pot for it to near dry out.
 
Can you foresee any problems if the plant in soil has a hydro root core? I'm thinking a Solo cup's worth of rockwool at the Tootsie center of 10 gallons of soil at least. Adding rockwool to dirt as if it were stones I think would improve drainage and keep the soil from compacting, but I'm hoping I can shorten the time it takes after drenching a pot for it to near dry out.
I don't see an issue beyond the recovery time as it has to rebuild a root system for the medium.

Rock wool cubes in soil should work just like adding clay pellets or perolite. It'll as aeration. One thing to keep in mind with these additions, is that they will work their way to the top of the pot over time. Just need to remix each time instead of doing a no till.
 
So you have a pot of soil on a never ending supply of water below, how is this not hydro, or at least a hybrid?

Its not hydro - the water sits in a tray the soil get wet due to capillary action. It's RO water so there's no nutrients in the water at all.

The soil get drier the higher up in the pot, at the surface the soil is pretty dry. So no fungus shits, which I like very much. The 7.5gal pots are completely filled with roots at chop and there's plenty of moisture in the soil but its not wet or even damp seems to be perfect for the plants.
 
One thing to keep in mind with these additions, is that they will work their way to the top of the pot over time. Just need to remix each time instead of doing a no till.

I use clay balls that are the size we see in DWC. They don't migrate. They are heavier than the soil particles sitting on top of them. Plus the root ball holds everything together.

I let the pot sit about 2 weeks after chop without water, the main stem just pulls out with a small amount of root. I plant another plant in the spot where the old stem was and next round on its way.

I have more pots than spots in the flower room so I'm always in rotation with the pots. Letting roots compost a few weeks. Another pot will already be in flower so I don't miss any time in transition.

I'm not advocating this system by any means. Just works for my situation right here right now. I tried blue-mats and found that system to be tedious at best.

Only reason I went from HID to LED and automated watering was so we could go on vacation for a week and not worry about it. It's evolved some.

I'm lazy so like to set up and walk away and not mess with plants and watering.
Thats what our outdoor gardens are for. lol

Check out these trichomes on the flower petals. I think thats the plant saying leave me alone I know what I'm doing. lol

Flower Porn Warning !!

 
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