Help me diagnose, please

[Groundtop]

Gg#4 autoflower potted in coco loco [soil base] from foxfarm. Using fox farm soil schedule feed, twice a week. I use grow big, big bloom, and tiger bloom. Plant is currently flowering. Rust colored edges on leaves.

What yall think could be the problem?

 

[seaofgreen18]

Howdy Id check ph first off you'll get some other ideas soon

 

[Clinto]

Potassium maybe??

 

[Cultiuana]

Hmm, rust-colored edges on leaves could mean a couple of things. It might be nutrient burn or potentially a lack of calcium or magnesium. Coco coir sometimes needs extra calcium and magnesium, so adding a CalMag supplement could do the trick.

Another thing to watch out for is the pH level, it can really affect how well your plant takes up nutrients. For coco coir, you’re aiming for a pH of around 5.8-6.2.

Also, have a think about how much you’re watering your plant. Overdoing it or not giving it enough can lead to similar issues.

If you’re still stumped, don’t worry, pop into a local garden center or get in touch with an extension service - they’re usually great at helping to figure these things out!

 

[Clinto]

Isn’t a cal mag issue more spots of rust?
Look like we heading into flower. 2-3 week???
Will be hungry for special K bout now. I reckon anyways. Could be wrong but been though that shit a bit.

 

[SmokingWings]

Gg#4 autoflower potted in coco loco [soil base] from foxfarm. Using fox farm soil schedule feed, twice a week. I use grow big, big bloom, and tiger bloom. Plant is currently flowering. Rust colored edges on leaves.

What yall think could be the problem?

It is a bit interesting since usually the start of a calcium deficiency shows randomly placed and randomly shaped rust colored spots anywhere on the leaf fingers. A Potassium deficiency usually shows as a yellow color starting to show along the points in the saw-tooth edge like we can see in the photos.

Several "maybes" to think about

I can't tell what size pot of soil mix you have going but maybe it is too small for the size of the plant. Since it is in flower it is demanding more nutrients now than it did when it was actively growing in the vegetating stage. Maybe more fertilizers mixed with the water these days.

If the Fox Farm schedule you are using was downloaded from their web-site it will be the latest version. If you have a paper copy or downloaded from anywhere on the web then compare what you have to the one on Fox Farms website. Maybe check to see if your schedule is the latest.

Maybe it does need some calcium now. And even if it does not I figure it will need more Ca than it can get from the soil within a couple of weeks.

If your feeding schedule is the latest version then maybe consider adding a bit more Tiger Bloom to the water. By a "bit" I am thinking just a couple of drops per gallon of water. Or better, buy a seaweed product that provides a source of Potassium.

Another possible thing is to call or eMail Fox Farm and ask them. I have always called them and have had interesting discussions on all types of gardening and growing. Once you have established a contract they will tell you when to send the photograph.

The plant will demand a lot more as the flower buds grow. It becomes hard to fix and make all the signs of a problem go away once flowering starts. I figure it is easier to get a jump on issues as soon as possible. Waiting too long and the best I can hope for is to slow down the problem but not make it go away. Once the plant starts to flower it determines the schedule of remaining time.

Oh, by the way, what is the pH of the wateralone or water and fertilizer mix at the time you are watering/feeding?

 

[SmokingWings]

For coco coir, you’re aiming for a pH of around 5.8-6.2.

The grower is using Coco Loco which Fox Farm says to treat like a typical potting mix that contains dirt, compost and earthworm castings and not like the usual coco coir growing medium.

It seems that the company is replacing the usual amounts of peat moss with the coco while keeping the compost amounts at the levels such as what they use in their Happy Frog or Ocean Forest blends. The recommendation mentioned on the Coco Loco website is 6.3 pH.

The first couple of times I came across mention of Coco Loco I was thinking it was a growing medium that should be treated like the usual hydroponic or coco medium but the company web site says 'no', treat it like a typical compost soil medium.

 

[Groundtop]

It is a bit interesting since usually the start of a calcium deficiency shows randomly placed and randomly shaped rust colored spots anywhere on the leaf fingers. A Potassium deficiency usually shows as a yellow color starting to show along the points in the saw-tooth edge like we can see in the photos.

Several "maybes" to think about

I can't tell what size pot of soil mix you have going but maybe it is too small for the size of the plant. Since it is in flower it is demanding more nutrients now than it did when it was actively growing in the vegetating stage. Maybe more fertilizers mixed with the water these days.

If the Fox Farm schedule you are using was downloaded from their web-site it will be the latest version. If you have a paper copy or downloaded from anywhere on the web then compare what you have to the one on Fox Farms website. Maybe check to see if your schedule is the latest.

Maybe it does need some calcium now. And even if it does not I figure it will need more Ca than it can get from the soil within a couple of weeks.

If your feeding schedule is the latest version then maybe consider adding a bit more Tiger Bloom to the water. By a "bit" I am thinking just a couple of drops per gallon of water. Or better, buy a seaweed product that provides a source of Potassium.

Another possible thing is to call or eMail Fox Farm and ask them. I have always called them and have had interesting discussions on all types of gardening and growing. Once you have established a contract they will tell you when to send the photograph.

The plant will demand a lot more as the flower buds grow. It becomes hard to fix and make all the signs of a problem go away once flowering starts. I figure it is easier to get a jump on issues as soon as possible. Waiting too long and the best I can hope for is to slow down the problem but not make it go away. Once the plant starts to flower it determines the schedule of remaining time.

Oh, by the way, what is the pH of the wateralone or water and fertilizer mix at the time you are watering/feeding

It is a bit interesting since usually the start of a calcium deficiency shows randomly placed and randomly shaped rust colored spots anywhere on the leaf fingers. A Potassium deficiency usually shows as a yellow color starting to show along the points in the saw-tooth edge like we can see in the photos.

Several "maybes" to think about

I can't tell what size pot of soil mix you have going but maybe it is too small for the size of the plant. Since it is in flower it is demanding more nutrients now than it did when it was actively growing in the vegetating stage. Maybe more fertilizers mixed with the water these days.

If the Fox Farm schedule you are using was downloaded from their web-site it will be the latest version. If you have a paper copy or downloaded from anywhere on the web then compare what you have to the one on Fox Farms website. Maybe check to see if your schedule is the latest.

Maybe it does need some calcium now. And even if it does not I figure it will need more Ca than it can get from the soil within a couple of weeks.

If your feeding schedule is the latest version then maybe consider adding a bit more Tiger Bloom to the water. By a "bit" I am thinking just a couple of drops per gallon of water. Or better, buy a seaweed product that provides a source of Potassium.

Another possible thing is to call or eMail Fox Farm and ask them. I have always called them and have had interesting discussions on all types of gardening and growing. Once you have established a contract they will tell you when to send the photograph.

The plant will demand a lot more as the flower buds grow. It becomes hard to fix and make all the signs of a problem go away once flowering starts. I figure it is easier to get a jump on issues as soon as possible. Waiting too long and the best I can hope for is to slow down the problem but not make it go away. Once the plant starts to flower it determines the schedule of remaining time.

Oh, by the way, what is the pH of the wateralone or water and fertilizer mix at the time you are watering/feeding?

I usually ph to about 6.2. After seeing this problem I did a flush with phd water and measured the run off, which was 6. This problem popped up after Sunday [last feed] where I did 3tsp of big bloom, 2tsp of grow big, and 2 tsp of tiger bloom per gallon of water.

Pot size is 3.5 gallons

I just don't want to run into nute burn and keep feeding her thinking she has a deficiency. Just want to be confident that it is a deficiency instead of an abundance.

I appreciate your help and time

 

[SmokingWings]

I just don't want to run into nute burn and keep feeding her thinking she has a deficiency. Just want to be confident that it is a deficiency instead of an abundance.

Do you have copies of the various 'deficiency and excess' charts?

If not do a google search using:
deficiency and excess charts Cannabis

and pick out a couple of them. I use a desktop or laptop so I just download a decent looking copy and keep it handy in one of my growing related folders. That way I can check them without having to do another search later on.

Another thing that might help look at deficiencies and excesses is that when here on 420magazine is to click on the 420 Forums in the large green bar at the top and when it drops down then click on New Posts. I do that and look through for threads talking about the weird things their plant leaves are doing. I started picking up on common questions mentioning the same colors and locations of spots on leaves and then the common reply of possible solutions, etc.

 

[7Dust2]

This is just a thought before pouring chems to something guys. Normal growth air temps. Colder just one day will cause plant to lose what it needs in one leaf. Chem issues always always start in certain areas. One leaf. Is not issues. Plant just grab from a point of the plant leaves will die anyway. Big fan leaves die. No reason to worry. Fyi

 

[Groundtop]

Upped the nutes a bit and now she's praying.

 

[Trump]

This chart will give you a general idea of what the plant wants in a particular stage. If you're in week 2 of flip your issue is magnesium and/or phosphorous. Mag needs go up substantially in preflower. Moreso in Coco like media which doesn't like to hold onto magnesium. Add in LED's and the need rises even higher.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I'm gonna guess potassium deficiency. Plant is in flower, so perhaps too much veg nutes (N) and not enough bloom nutes (P, K). Micro-nutrients are also important for NPK absorption.

 

[Clinto]

Upped the nutes a bit and now she's praying.

That’s awesome mate.
Fuck that light is the purplest I have ever seen.
Wow. Hope all goes good

 

[Absorber]

Gg#4 autoflower potted in coco loco [soil base] from foxfarm. Using fox farm soil schedule feed, twice a week. I use grow big, big bloom, and tiger bloom. Plant is currently flowering. Rust colored edges on leaves.

What yall think could be the problem?

Potassium deficiency

 

[Roy Growin]

This chart will give you a general idea of what the plant wants in a particular stage. If you're in week 2 of flip your issue is magnesium and/or phosphorous. Mag needs go up substantially in preflower. Moreso in Coco like media which doesn't like to hold onto magnesium. Add in LED's and the need rises even higher.

Interesting chart - seems to suggest that the plant needs to amass energy in late veg-mid flower and very little if anything towards the end of flower
That is pretty close to my feeding regime for autos

 

[RB56]

In my experience, the most important procedure for maintaining healthy plants indoors is measuring the EC of what you pour into the plants to the EC of your runoff. Monitoring the pH of what you pour in is also critical. Since you are using a medium with compost content and are adding nutrients at the manufacturer suggested rate, it's more likely that you are feeding too much. If your runoff EC isn't significantly below what you are feeding, you are over feeding. If the runoff EC is ABOVE the EC of your feeding solution, you are already in trouble and need to flush.

You may have root system problems. Even a fungus gnat infestation can do enough root damage to cause all sorts of random growth problems. More aggressive pests will do even more damage. I'd consider pulling one plant from its pot to see what the roots look like. Adding H2O2 to your flush solution can help if you see root rot.

Last thing you want to do with an unidentified problem is add more stuff at random. I grow in 3 parts coir and 1 part rice hulls and have NEVER needed to add Cal/Mag. There is more than enough Calcium and Magnesium in every formula I've ever used for healthy plant growth. Proper pH is critical to nutrient uptake.

 

[bluter]

@Clinto called it early. it's a pk ask.

 

[Groundtop]

I have increased water intake but feeding schedule is the same. I have upped nutrients just a tad on the Tiger Bloom. This is her now. Not too good looking, but the buds look good.

Thoughts?
Critiques?
Comments?

Please let me know what you think I can do different next grow. I am trying to learn and feedback is needed. Thanks!

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey Groundtop,

I don't grow autos, but I'll throw in my 2 cents here.

Pot size is 3.5 gallons

My first impression of your photos above... If this was happening in my grow, I would say the plant is suffering from pot-too-small-itis, aka premature senescence, aka "dying in the home stretch". In other words, the plant is starting to die before the buds are ready to harvest.

What I have found is that if the pot is too small, even though nutrients are being added, the plant will not do well and will start to show signs of necrosis, i.e. leaves and bracts starting to die and turn brown, and stigmas (hairs) dying off too quickly and prematurely.

Logically, this is due to problems in the root zone, and most likely the primary one is a rootbound situation, i.e. the pot is filled up and tight with roots. As a result, nutrients are not absorbed and used properly. Some phenotypes will be more resilient to being rootbound. The type of pot – whether fabric or plastic – will also be a factor. A plant grown in a fabric pot may be less likely to become rootbound.

In conclusion, where some phenos may do OK in 3.5 gallons, others may not. You could try upping your pot size to 5 gallons. I grow 6-8 ft tall plants outdoors in 5, 7, 10, and 15 gallons. My new rule of thumb is not to flower plants in anything less than 10 gal.

happy growing!