Help please, turning yellow

[bluter]

the cheapest way to control rh is move air from interior to outdoor. it'll help dry things up, and actually help the heat a little.

if you're just moving air to another area of the house, or not using a scrubber and extractor to outdoor, you're loading the interior air up more and increasing a negative cycle to a spiral. good extractors come with rh or heat controls now, you can set them to run til they hit a target on one or the other. again, they only really work if moving air to outdoor.

after that you're looking at dehumidifiers which can get costly. i'd still suggest a small dehum to help anyway.

 

[bluter]

what light do you use ?

i built all of my own for the past few years but have a 650w nexlight mega i'm adding dimming to for a flower rig on my next run. it'll replace a 600w 12 pot cob i built.

i run a 200w cob rig for my veg space. i could use another 100w for there or so, but i'm super cheap. the veg rig also runs supplemental 5050 smds.

I have a viparspectra 600w but went with this new one for the coverage, thought with this daylike light it would be better, the viparspectra is the blurple, so now I’m a bit iffy with this new light, any suggestions please, and thank you for your help mate, very much appreciated

the burple is old tech, the phlizon will be more efficient. simple solution is run both in flower. it won't hurt to mix them and the plants could use it. a second phlizon would be another solution, they can be daisy chained. i like a big jump in power going from veg to flower. you won't believe how much that changes the game.

 

[Kaldean]

the cheapest way to control rh is move air from interior to outdoor. it'll help dry things up, and actually help the heat a little.

if you're just moving air to another area of the house, or not using a scrubber and extractor to outdoor, you're loading the interior air up more and increasing a negative cycle to a spiral. good extractors come with rh or heat controls now, you can set them to run til they hit a target on one or the other. again, they only really work if moving air to outdoor.

after that you're looking at dehumidifiers which can get costly. i'd still suggest a small dehum to help anyway.

Hello mate, and sorry for the late reply, and your exactly right, fell asleep with all the bedroom door open and humidity dropped to 50, when I shit the door it goes back up to 70, so yeah it would do the same with the whole house after a little while, and that’s my problem, I ain’t venting outside, got away with it in the summer and didn’t even give it a thought this time round, I think mold will get me, but we will see, and I may be imagining things but it looks like the worse plant is going darker green with the extra kalmag and food, but I might be just hoping lol, and if I grow in the winter again I will be looking to get the outside venting done, thanks for the advise mate, very much appreciated

 

[bluter]

Hello mate, and sorry for the late reply, and your exactly right, fell asleep with all the bedroom door open and humidity dropped to 50, when I shit the door it goes back up to 70, so yeah it would do the same with the whole house after a little while, and that’s my problem, I ain’t venting outside, got away with it in the summer and didn’t even give it a thought this time round, I think mold will get me, but we will see, and I may be imagining things but it looks like the worse plant is going darker green with the extra kalmag and food, but I might be just hoping lol, and if I grow in the winter again I will be looking to get the outside venting done, thanks for the advise mate, very much appreciated

we're the opposite here. it's so dry in winter i could just block the exhaust.. my pops wants to put a damper on it cause i don't have a fan control and i have huge old school snail. we could probably use the rh.

in summer i can barely move enough air. the whole place gets sweaty, and then the air con winds up working harder.

 

[Kaldean]

we're the opposite here. it's so dry in winter i could just block the exhaust.. my pops wants to put a damper on it cause i don't have a fan control and i have huge old school snail. we could probably use the rh.

in summer i can barely move enough air. the whole place gets sweaty, and then the air con winds up working harder.

That’s about right mate, too dry there and too wet here I suppose I could get it down here but the electric bill ain’t gunna like it lol, I would rather your probable tbh, can’t you leave bowls of water about or wet towels get the rh up ?

 

[AgedMaster]

That’s about right mate, too dry there and too wet here I suppose I could get it down here but the electric bill ain’t gunna like it lol, I would rather your probable tbh, can’t you leave bowls of water about or wet towels get the rh up ?

If your in europe u most likley wont need cal mag u would no if u had ec stick u might be able to tell if u check water company or someone could tell u to much calcium also blocks magnesium this statement is from canna

Do you need Cal-Mag with canna?


This water is moderately hard to hard, contains an appropriate quantity of calcium and magnesium, and generally has an EC ~0.2-0.4. All CANNA products are designed to work best with this type of water. No need to use CANNA CALMAG AGENT.

 

[Kaldean]

If your in europe u most likley wont need cal mag u would no if u had ec stick u might be able to tell if u check water company or someone could tell u to much calcium also blocks magnesium this statement is from canna

Do you need Cal-Mag with canna?


This water is moderately hard to hard, contains an appropriate quantity of calcium and magnesium, and generally has an EC ~0.2-0.4. All CANNA products are designed to work best with this type of water. No need to use CANNA CALMAG AGENT.

Hi agedmaster, I do know the water is hard where I live, iv found the water report from the water company, but haven’t a clue what I’m looking at, maybe you could help me please, I will put it here, and thank you

https://waterquality.p.cloudapps.thameswater.co.uk/api/waterquality/Zone/NLE12A

 

[Kaldean]

i built all of my own for the past few years but have a 650w nexlight mega i'm adding dimming to for a flower rig on my next run. it'll replace a 600w 12 pot cob i built.

i run a 200w cob rig for my veg space. i could use another 100w for there or so, but i'm super cheap. the veg rig also runs supplemental 5050 smds.





the burple is old tech, the phlizon will be more efficient. simple solution is run both in flower. it won't hurt to mix them and the plants could use it. a second phlizon would be another solution, they can be daisy chained. i like a big jump in power going from veg to flower. you won't believe how much that changes the game.

Yeah iv seen people making there own lights on YouTube vids, haven’t got a clue about any of that mate, I just buy a light and hope it works , but with what your saying about the watts per square foot, I’m half of what I should be, do it seems like when these led lights say that it replaces a 600w hps light, it’s all crap then

 

[bluter]

Yeah iv seen people making there own lights on YouTube vids, haven’t got a clue about any of that mate, I just buy a light and hope it works , but with what your saying about the watts per square foot, I’m half of what I should be, do it seems like when these led lights say that it replaces a 600w hps light, it’s all crap then

they're still well worth it. i'd never go back. you couldn't pay me. i use less than half the power i used to. i've used all the lighting types out there and used to be a lighting tech in a production company. we grew under high power led before they were commercially available.

 

[013]

Hey Kaldean,

your chicks look great and plenty of time to straighten out the kinks!!

wanted to add…none of this will help for now but stuff to consider for your next run!

wet dry cycle is an ugly but necessary bane of all soil growers, if you build containers using bill284 layering method pretty confident it will shorten your wait times to get the dry cycle

another method to beat wet dry cycle is using a SIP where the plant decides and drinks as much or as little as needed. Azimuth has thread to ramp up learning.

im newbie to SIP too but I’m pretty dang impressed, in my soil based SIP the growth is faster and does not slow down like when waiting thru days of wet/dry feast or famine crap… once the plant adjusts itself to steeper moisture gradient of SIP… its pedal to the metal

 

[AgedMaster]

Hi agedmaster, I do know the water is hard where I live, iv found the water report from the water company, but haven’t a clue what I’m looking at, maybe you could help me please, I will put it here, and thank you

https://waterquality.p.cloudapps.thameswater.co.uk/api/waterquality/Zone/NLE12A

Hardness (Total) as CaCO3 mg/l - 238 266 297 min mean max the average for your water is 266ppm i think that is right someone else might be able to confirm that would be hard water 150ppm to 300 ppm is considered hard

Hardness as calcium carbonate No limits - Results are displayed as milligrams per litre. Hardness in the Thames Water area varies between 80 - 365 milligrams per litre. Hardness is caused by compounds of calcium and magnesium which occur naturally in the water. The minerals that dissolve into the water as it passes through chalk limestone rocks causes the water in the Thames region to be naturally hard. Total hardness comprises permanent and temporary hardness.

i just double checked it is correct it states it further down the page

 

[cbdhemp808]

hey @Kaldean,

Great responses here from everyone.

Your plants are lookin' good... possible nitrogen issue. The pale green new growth may be a sign of iron deficiency, which can cause nitrogen problems... yellowing. Are you feeding sufficient N? How about Fe?

 

[AgedMaster]

they're still well worth it. i'd never go back. you couldn't pay me. i use less than half the power i used to. i've used all the lighting types out there and used to be a lighting tech in a production company. we grew under high power led before they were commercially available.

hey @Kaldean,

Great responses here from everyone.

Your plants are lookin' good... possible nitrogen issue. The pale green new growth may be a sign of iron deficiency, which can cause nitrogen problems... yellowing. Are you feeding sufficient N? How about Fe?

U shouldn't need any minerals with hard tap water there should be enough there. According to he's supply theres 200 micrograms per ltr of water i dont no if thats enough as ive never grown RO to no what to add but if he is deficient i no canna do a mono range with trace elements bluter might no

 

[Buds Buddy]

the cheapest way to control rh is move air from interior to outdoor. it'll help dry things up, and actually help the heat a little.

if you're just moving air to another area of the house, or not using a scrubber and extractor to outdoor, you're loading the interior air up more and increasing a negative cycle to a spiral. good extractors come with rh or heat controls now, you can set them to run til they hit a target on one or the other. again, they only really work if moving air to outdoor.

after that you're looking at dehumidifiers which can get costly. i'd still suggest a small dehum to help anyway.

I'll take a Hurricane Fan (metal) with an Inkbird Controller over the new plastic crap that comes with controllers any day.
Only plastic fan I own is a $300 6" Vortex which I love because when you turn it off the blades fold in & stop air flow from going in or out. Had this thing for 6 years with no issues so it's paid it's dues. Max Fans are plastic but OK. Only bad part is you only have L/M/H settings & not a rotary type dial.

 

[Buds Buddy]

Light is new, it’s the phlizon pro 2000w,

These aren't bad lights at all. I had the 800 watt 10 Bar for a 5x5 & it did a great job.

 

[bluter]

U shouldn't need any minerals with hard tap water there should be enough there. According to he's supply theres 200 micrograms per ltr of water i dont no if thats enough as ive never grown RO to no what to add but if he is deficient i no canna do a mono range with trace elements bluter might no

i'd probably start without calmag and go to a 1/2 dose depending on how they react. the led pulls some. i like running RO cause i have access and it takes the guesswork out. there's a pile in that tap water but i have no idea if it's available to the plant, which is why i'd have it handy anyway.

everything else aside these things are still plain hungry, and the watering / feeding technique needs to be worked out. the ec probably needs to come up a bit at feedings, and it would be additive, or on top of, the ec of the tap water with the nutes @Kaldean uses.

 

[Kaldean]

they're still well worth it. i'd never go back. you couldn't pay me. i use less than half the power i used to. i've used all the lighting types out there and used to be a lighting tech in a production company. we grew under high power led before they were commercially available.

I would like to have my own set up with the lights, but I’m just winging it tbh But definitely something I will keep in mind for the future

 

[Kaldean]

Hey Kaldean,

your chicks look great and plenty of time to straighten out the kinks!!

wanted to add…none of this will help for now but stuff to consider for your next run!

wet dry cycle is an ugly but necessary bane of all soil growers, if you build containers using bill284 layering method pretty confident it will shorten your wait times to get the dry cycle

another method to beat wet dry cycle is using a SIP where the plant decides and drinks as much or as little as needed. Azimuth has thread to ramp up learning.

im newbie to SIP too but I’m pretty dang impressed, in my soil based SIP the growth is faster and does not slow down like when waiting thru days of wet/dry feast or famine crap… once the plant adjusts itself to steeper moisture gradient of SIP… its pedal to the metal

Hi 013, in the summer I have no problem with the drying out if the soil, didn’t realise it would be this much different in the winter, my set ups not the best, and definitely not for the harsher climate, I’m doubting if I will grow again in the winter, but that SIP your on about I will be looking into for sure, sounds a good technique, thank you for the info mate, very much appreciated

 

[safeman]

many good answers to your qestion - what about the old way : flush with H20 and let dry for 7days Then re-adjust nutes ? You know that it takes about a week for the nutrients you water to show their results (spider roots - to stalk - to bud sites)

 

[bluter]

I would like to have my own set up with the lights, but I’m just winging it tbh But definitely something I will keep in mind for the future

you're doing great with what you're running right now. you can overlight with led too. it's hard to know when to quit for some folk, and there's always a new one around the corner.

some of the cob rigs i built for folk are 10 + yrs old now. i've upgraded a couple over the years and swapped out drivers. if a rig i built doesn't last at least a good five yrs i get real pissed. i full warrantied for three when i sold them. never had a single claim..