Kali Mist CFL Scrog Grow Journal - 05-19-13

its is a clone of the plant to the left in the scrog screen. Both my scrog girls are from seed, the clone was taken afew weeks into veg and was the primary top when I first took a cutting, it was 1" tall and 2 nodes. Shocked it rooted especially without cloning gel, popped it straight into peat moss. I figured since my method of training was topping, I might as well try to root it lol.

Primary tops are suppose to be harder to clone. I know I have less success cloning primary tops.

Nice job :thumb:
 
I found a very odd looking bud leaf, 2 actually that looks like the start of a disease, it looks very odd to me, never seen a pic like it before.

Smell the bud leaf. I don't have any experience but I read that a bud that was rotting from a beetle/worm actually smelled rotten/rotting?
 
Sorry Crimson, and I just had a hamburger too. I am sure you will be fine.

You may have seen this before but found this on another thread....

'Gnatrol works well for the babies and the yellow insect cards work well on the flies. Put a layer of sand or perlite over the top of the medium to block access to adults. If the moms can't get to the soil to lay eggs they can't multiply.
I used peroxide at a high dose to kill off my last infestation. Fungus gnats can destroy a crop. The babies eat on the roots and the adults are known to feed on plant juices (suck at the leaves) at times as well.'

No need for apologies crawdaddy, I was joking bud! I love knowledge and I'm very health conscious, my background used to be in the medical field so the way I see it you did me a huge favor by pointing out DE could blow up into the buds! I honestly didn't think about that, Thanks :).

Great to know you had success with Hydrogen peroxide. Did it do any harm on your plants? People claim its beneficial for plants, I'm doubtful but did you see any benefits? I realize now I should have researched those bugs earlier, I decided to prepare and read up on all the common pests in plants and how to treat. I like the sand idea, gonna see if I have any leftover aquarium sand in the morning, doubtful though.
 
Primary tops are suppose to be harder to clone. I know I have less success cloning primary tops.

Nice job :thumb:

I read that too, I managed to clone both just fine. I think Kali Mist Likes it :) She does root quickly and easily from what I've seen so far, with or without cloning gel.

Smell the bud leaf. I don't have any experience but I read that a bud that was rotting from a beetle/worm actually smelled rotten/rotting?


I'd sure hate to open that can of worms :rofl: I smelled the leaf this morning, just had a cannabis type smell. I read fungus gnat larvae can tunnel into the roots and stems of the plants and cause disease. I doubt they caused any serious harm to the plant at most maybe only stunted it
 
Great to know you had success with Hydrogen peroxide. Did it do any harm on your plants? People claim its beneficial for plants, I'm doubtful but did you see any benefits? I realize now I should have researched those bugs earlier, I decided to prepare and read up on all the common pests in plants and how to treat. I like the sand idea, gonna see if I have any leftover aquarium sand in the morning, doubtful though.

I just found that quote by googling 'fungus gnat marijuana', and that was my most intriguing find. The using sand idea to block them made sense to me. Personally I have no experience with hydrogen peroxide.
 
I use diotomaceous earth for soil pests as a barrier on top of the soil, it cuts them as they move through it. i bought my diotomaceous earth from an animal feed store, do not use the type meant for pool filters.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous earth
 
I found more of those strange looking bud leaves again only on that 1 site, it appears to be spreading in that area, I dont know if this is a pathogen or a growth but it looks like trouble. I dont think it can be a deficiency cause its only on this 1 bud. Whatever it is it appears to be spreading fast in that localized area on that bud

I need some advice cause I feel that now I have a choice to make, leave it alone and observe it, diagnose and treat it, or cut it off and smoke it :rofl: Does anyone know of a knowledgeable member I might be able to private message with this issue?


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not sure, but if you suspect pathogen spray with 2:1 water to hydroden peroxide
 
Hi thank you b.real and John. I'll take nute burn over pathogen or a growth any day lol, I'd have to comb through my journal and find out all my fertilization dates. if my memory servers me, I watered with maxibloom after a flush 4-5 days ago only a half gallon per plant at 1 teaspoon per gallon. It was a week before that when she was fertilized. if its a burn i guess kali mist likes light feedings frequently like I did during veg and early flower

If its nute burn it looks different from any other area, where mainly the fan leaf tips were effected. It's also strange that its on only that 1 bud. I don't know anything about nute burn except what I have read online, I trust your judgement a lot more than mine

I dont know if this helps but I noticed this yesterday morning, it was only on 2 small bud leaves, I cut those 2 leaves as close to the buds as possible. Within 24 hours it was on 4 more leaves that were in very close to the previous 2

Does incorrect PH look similar to nute burn? like Burnt leaf tips? I'm beginning to wonder how accurate of a PH reading im really getting with my liquid testing kit. I don't know if its even designed for soil use, unless the runoff is clear, which mine is not. Its dark yellow/brownish orange. I think its time to invest in a PH tester designed for soil.

PH below 6.3 in soil locks out phosphorus, Magnesium, and Calcium. I'm still seeing signs of 2 of these deficiencies. I can only conclude that my soils ph is still low, or the new nutes hasn't begun to add enough Macro nutrients yet. I do have burnt leaf tips which is also an indication of either nute burn or heat burn/stress. I believe its nute burn. If I'm still dealing with an incorrect PH than I screwed up big time by adding in nutes after my previous flush. I'll be ordering PH test strips today.

As of now I feel the most important things to master for a beginner are, correct amount of water, keeping track of PH, and correct amount of nutes; less is more.


There are a few charts that vary a bit. I feel this one is the most accurate.

673427821nutrientandphc.gif
 
That doesn't sound like a nute issue - as you say, just the one bud - it's not generalized.

I'd cut the whole bud off and keep watching the plant - one bud is no big loss.
 
Hi Miwa, I had a nute burn in the past but have flushed several times since then . It caused all the fan leaves tips to become crispy dry and brown but not those tiny bud leaves. This other thing only effected 2 bud leaves within 24 hours became 4-5. it isnt dry at all, the leaf is still moist but brown at the edges, it doesnt start at the tip either like i thought nute burn does. lets see in the morning.


Hi graytail, I'm considering cutting it off, its touching other buds and that raises some concern. I'll wait and see for now though :)
 
Hi thank you b.real and John. I'll take nute burn over pathogen or a growth any day lol, I'd have to comb through my journal and find out all my fertilization dates. if my memory servers me, I watered with maxibloom after a flush 4-5 days ago only a half gallon per plant at 1 teaspoon per gallon. It was a week before that when she was fertilized. if its a burn i guess kali mist likes light feedings frequently like I did during veg and early flower

If its nute burn it looks different from any other area, where mainly the fan leaf tips were effected. It's also strange that its on only that 1 bud. I don't know anything about nute burn except what I have read online, I trust your judgement a lot more than mine

I dont know if this helps but I noticed this yesterday morning, it was only on 2 small bud leaves, I cut those 2 leaves as close to the buds as possible. Within 24 hours it was on 4 more leaves that were in very close to the previous 2

Does incorrect PH look similar to nute burn? like Burnt leaf tips? I'm beginning to wonder how accurate of a PH reading im really getting with my liquid testing kit. I don't know if its even designed for soil use, unless the runoff is clear, which mine is not. Its dark yellow/brownish orange. I think its time to invest in a PH tester designed for soil.

PH below 6.3 in soil locks out phosphorus, Magnesium, and Calcium. I'm still seeing signs of 2 of these deficiencies. I can only conclude that my soils ph is still low, or the new nutes hasn't begun to add enough Macro nutrients yet. I do have burnt leaf tips which is also an indication of either nute burn or heat burn/stress. I believe its nute burn. If I'm still dealing with an incorrect PH than I screwed up big time by adding in nutes after my previous flush. I'll be ordering PH test strips today.

As of now I feel the most important things to master for a beginner are, correct amount of water, keeping track of PH, and correct amount of nutes; less is more.


There are a few charts that vary a bit. I feel this one is the most accurate.

673427821nutrientandphc.gif

It definitely could be a nutrient burn, or low PH, or locked out nutrients, or root bound. It could be definitely one of those... :) Some slight humor there. It is more of an educated guess is how I look at it.

Like a Dr. rules out this and or that by doing test, etc., etc.

If you have only been feeding lightly... Uh oh! I do see some nutrient burnt tips.
-Maybe nutrient burn

If I'm still dealing with an incorrect PH than I screwed up big time by adding in nutes after my previous flush.

Not necessarily. Your flushing salts out but other good stuff can get flushed out also. I think it is good to give a light feeding of 1/4 to 1/2 strength nutrients after a flush.

I guess kali mist likes light feedings frequently like I did during veg and early flower
Good thought. Some strains will react differently to fertilizer strength.

I feel the most important things to master for a beginner are, correct amount of water, keeping track of PH, and correct amount of nutes; less is more.

I believe the hardest is PH adjustment. I feel most new growers don't even take it into consideration. Or, they just assume that if the PH is ok before application that the PH of the soil is good after application.

Even organic fertilizers suggest you flush at least once.

Liquid PH tester:
Its dark yellow/brownish orange.

My bet is that it is low PH. Dark yellow is 6.5 (*can be yellow from fertilizer runoff*), orange is 5.0 or less. Red is 4.0 or less (if you are using a hydroponics liquid PH tester like I do)

Phosphorus deficiency can appear like a mold at times.
-Maybe a phosphorus deficiency (because you are in flower) cause by low PH? Maybe?
or
-Nutrient burn

Just my thoughts
:goodluck:
 
I'd sure hate to open that can of worms I smelled the leaf this morning, just had a cannabis type smell. I read fungus gnat larvae can tunnel into the roots and stems of the plants and cause disease. I doubt they caused any serious harm to the plant at most maybe only stunted it

lol :) :rofl: :clap:
 
Look at my current grow and I had a similar but not exact leaf and P issue. I fed a ph'd up to 7.5 and my runoff has been in the 6.5-7.0 range since. Im still feeding high PH.
Im not 100% convinced its the same thing, but its starting to look that way.
 
you could be right Gray...i thought i saw more brown tips than on just one bud...

oh yeah, in pics 7 and 8 you can see the tips from the fertilizer burn on other leaves...i cant pinpioint which nute it is (not nitrogen obv lol) but someone might be able to. better than sickness. good call
 
Good Morning and good weed everyone! I want to sincerely thank everyone for all the amazing advice and help you've all given me so far on this amazing adventure. I can not express enough my gratitude and appreciation that I have for you guys. Thank you :thanks::thanks::thanks:


I've been really tied up past few days, I'll be making rounds to everyone's journal sometime this weekend :)

I don't believe the DE is very effective against fungus gnats. I have a bunch mixed into the soil and a layer on top of the soil. Don't get me wrong its killing them, but its not even close to a 100% kill rate like it would on another insect. its possible some moisture got into the bag and is making it ineffective. I checked no sanitized sand leftover. I may just leave it be for now, I wiped out a huge amount of their numbers. I'm about 30 days from harvest, I'm thinking they should just naturally die out within 10 days and there won't be anything for them to lay eggs in to start the cycle over. I'll just get rid of the other infected houseplant. Then hopefully problem solved.

I personally found these buggers worse to deal with than spidermites and mealy bugs due to their extreme mobility. Thankfully spidermites and mealy bugs cant run away from impending doom lol. This problem could of have easily been fixed with nematodes which is a parasite that eats bugs from the inside out. They thrive in the soil for up to 18 months, their not gonna wash away with watering like DE does and their not gonna harm your plants like h202 possibly could. Its pricey but well worth it. Lesson learned... Don't be cheap :rofl:
 
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