Mokel's Aquafarm - DWC Mod - Northern Lights # 5 x Haze - First Grow Ever

as said, it fluctuates between 5.7 and 5.9 during a 24h period, that should enable the plant to get most of the stuff it needs, every other day it's going down to 5.6 before i adjust it again ...
and as an immobile nute, it should affect the whole newer growth and not only a small part of the whole plant to different degrees while those symptoms go hand in hand with the distance/airflow below the bulb :)

edit:
btw i'm using those charts for orientation ...
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dunno, noticed all of them differ for some nutes .....

edit2: ph is 5.7 atm, might let it drop to 5.6 during the day
 
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dunno, noticed all of them differ for some nutes .....

edit2: ph is 5.7 atm, might let it drop to 5.6 during the day

Welcome to marketing in weed. I won't trust a chart that a nute mfg puts out, nor would I trust a chart that is simply an alteration of an older one.
Glad to see your edit and the lights coming on. I was about to poke ya with a reality stick ;3
 
i'm not ruling anything out yet and i'm following every advice or hint i get about my problems, as it's my first grow and i have so much stuff i need to learn and/or witness, the easy or hard way .... :)

the upper chart was posted by emilya or rifleman on some point, the other one was posted by RSoiler. as all of those are experienced growers i thought i stick with those charts as there are so many with different variations and i have absolutely no clue which of those are accurate, up to date, suitable for my nutes (AN) ... for example look at the Ca in those charts i use .... one says it's available from 5 up to 5.8, the other one says it's available at 5.9 + ...

edit:
this one is from AN for example, so it should work with my nutes as far as i can tell ....

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I know right? I was so frustrated at all the different values out there, I took this approach. The pH will naturally raise as the nutes are used, if I see a 5.6 vs a 5.4 listing for availability of a nute, I will go in at the lower number just to cover my ass.

Another thing that different nutes list different pH levels, some have various forms of buffering. My calimag says to add to water 10minutes before anything else and pH adjust to 6. Then mix in the nutes. Huh? That doesn't make sense to me. That would also fubar my emergency no pH testing protocol, I think.

So I've never done that, I mix it all then pH adjust because I think the calimag has some buffer in it or something. Either way, it's my job to monitor pH, not my nutes. You'll have a firmer idea of what you'll need to do by the end of your grow. But my girls so far, have needed nutes in @5.6 to keep cal/mag deficiencies at bay.

edit: Oh and growers like Emilya et al, they can adjust pH by looking at the bottle. I take expert advice with a grain of salt and try to find the strategy of it vs following their tactics at this stage.
 
looks like your only problem is stretch, read about 'apical dominance' and 'supercropping' . looks like u gonna need some training soon. you have at least 7more weeks. no ph lockout or sth, dont listen to shit. peace.


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Sorry for the lack of updates the last days, family has started to move in and occupy most of my time and as i already missed several opportunities to take pictures with lights off, you now have to endure color correction... nevertheless she's starting to get frosty, so despite the high temperatures ~15°C she likes white christmas as it seems :)


Day 26

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edit: made a bigger one :)
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thanks :)

and merry christmas to all of you and your loved ones :circle-of-love:


edit:
hmm, should have finished my answer right away without a smoke break in the middle of typing ..... :lot-o-toke:

mostly developing at the moment, clear maybe some are milky already, could try to get a better pic tomorrow without fans moving, better light ..... but i can still crop a smaller area out of the bud pic for the forum, advantages of a good macro lens :)

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nice, just found a hidden present, like 5 fungus gnats inside my tent, when i stirred up the upper layer of hydroton some more emerged from it .... so i'm trying to get it dried out by deactivating the dripper and i already ordered some bti to add to my water ... dunno never read they are able to establish themselves in hydroton .... several dead one on the tent floor .... i'll see .... :rolleyes3
 
I'd just use some h202 on the hydroton, then look at what you're flushing with, you're too close to harvest to think of adding somehting to kill the gnats I think. Yeah I've not heard of gnats in hydroton either, and after my soil infestation, they never migrated to my buckets.
 
Duh silly me, I add that in every time I water to protect against root rot. Looking at your nute list, it seems you're already adding that though? I'd still use a bottle of h2o2 and just rinse down the hydroton at your rez change, then maybe look at your nute amounts.

I'm a huge fan of h2o2... at the height of my infestation, I was beside myself with what to do, As I was reading which chemical was best, I read "get some sand and 3% hydrogen peroxide". 100% effective, added nothing I wasn't adding already, and was much less expensive than any other remedy suggested. Bathe the soil (hydroton and root ball for you, the gnats are laying eggs in the root scum I'll bet, not the hydroton), rinse it out a few minutes later (or wait another 5minutes for the h2o2 to break down into just water), and feed normally. All for 2$ or less at wallymart. Your replacing the bacillus when you feed after the h2o2 (which kills the larve and the bacillus), so it really isn't adding or removing anything, other than mold spores and gnat larve.
 
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