My first bud: When can I harvest?

Thanks for the tip @SmokingWings. :)
I will definitely use bigger pots next time... thanks for pointing it out. Is it too late to re-pot them? I have a Northern Lights plant that is 4 feet tall, in flower, and in the same one gallon pot. It is already at Day 40 since it grew hairs and still doesnt have thick buds.

They were very small when I flipped them (6-8 inches) that I just thought the 1 gal pots would be big enough... Clearly, i under estimated their stretch. :)
Yes, it is to late to re-pot. Just my opinion on this but once it starts to flower it is best to leave it be.

Also, many threads and msgs that autos seem to do best if they are in the same pot all the way through. Kinda makes sense since the auto strains were developed or selectively bred for short growing seasons. Every time the plant is moved to another pot the roots are disturbed and it takes time for recovery.
 
Is it just me, or do the leaves in the picture look 'odd'?
No, not just you. The leaves look basically healthy without any yellowing or browning or signs of insect damage or any of the 1000s of other problems that make people want to take pictures of their plants.:):D:)

But, your comment did make me go back and take another look at the plant. I noticed that the leaves do not look as serrated as most plants; just not as many points along the side.
 
Capt420 Ive come to understand that growing time info is at best a rough guideline. There are just so many variables that impact getting to the finish line.

What I run into starting now is dew/condensation soaking the buds every day. Bringing it in at night, and letting it dry, is a big help in avoiding mold.
 
No, not just you. The leaves look basically healthy without any yellowing or browning or signs of insect damage or any of the 1000s of other problems that make people want to take pictures of their plants.:):D:)

But, your comment did make me go back and take another look at the plant. I noticed that the leaves do not look as serrated as most plants; just not as many points along the side.

Should I be worried??? :eek::eek::eek:
Sorry I dont know what it should look like.

This is an old picture taken July 10. Do the leaves look normal? A couple weeks after this picture, I defoliated and could have over done it....
Screenshot_20190829-022517.png
 
Capt420 Ive come to understand that growing time info is at best a rough guideline. There are just so many variables that impact getting to the finish line.

What I run into starting now is dew/condensation soaking the buds every day. Bringing it in at night, and letting it dry, is a big help in avoiding mold.

I cannot bring it in at night for security purposes. ;) Will that be okay though? I live near the equator so our climate is tropical if that information helps. I also struggle with high temps indoor and outdoor. (I think it's why my previous indoor flowering attempts failed).
 
Should I be worried??? :eek::eek::eek:
Sorry I dont know what it should look like.

This is an old picture taken July 10. Do the leaves look normal? A couple weeks after this picture, I defoliated and could have over done it....
Screenshot_20190829-022517.png

No need to worry imo.
 
I grew a Sour Diesel last summer - also a clone. I went back to check my notes. It vegged for 70 days and flowered for 95 days. I started counting the days after there were established pistils growing out the top of the new growth (about 10 days or so after first sign of pistils). I grew outside the entire time, but I live in N. Calif so my growing environment is different.
 
I grew a Sour Diesel last summer - also a clone. I went back to check my notes. It vegged for 70 days and flowered for 95 days. I started counting the days after there were established pistils growing out the top of the new growth (about 10 days or so after first sign of pistils). I grew outside the entire time, but I live in N. Calif so my growing environment is different.

Thank you @BeezLuiz

Whoa! 95 days!! My Sour Diesel is still at Day 63 since it grew hairs tosay. So I guess a few more weeks at least. Here's some pics of her taken this morning...

I have already started giving her just plain water 2 weeks ago but i dont see any signs of deficiency yet.
20190829_062010.jpg

I put a lighter there for size comparison.

20190829_061924.jpg



20190829_062144.jpg


Question: Should I add nutes or just continue giving her just plain water? I'm meaning towards giving just plain water since there's only a few weeks left anyway and she's not showing signs of deficiency yet. What you guys think?

Have a good day everyone! :Namaste:
 
Hey Cap’. She’s looking good.
Frustrating, but patience will reward you.
You have a month or so left on her. You want to see her when she stops pushing new white pistils, then wait two weeks before checking trichs, then wait another week before chopping.
Give her bloom nutes until the end. And black strap molasses for finishing the resin with every bit of goodness you can give her.
If you have mycothrive to topdress into the pot that’s going to help her to use what’s left in the pot too.
 
Question: Should I add nutes or just continue giving her just plain water? I'm meaning towards giving just plain water since there's only a few weeks left anyway and she's not showing signs of deficiency yet. What you guys think?
I would definitely continue feeding her. Why would you just give plain water now? Especially since it's in such a small pot, there's probably no nutrients left in that small amount of soil.

This is what the Sour Diesel buds should look like when getting close to harvest (probably a little smaller in your case). This was about 2 weeks or so before harvest. Most of the white pistils should turn brown/orange, then check the trichomes if you can.


And then about one week prior to harvest:

 
Should I be worried??? :eek::eek::eek:
Sorry I dont know what it should look like.
No need to worry. If it was a real problem I would not have put the smilie faces in the msg.

Many plant specie, not just marijuana, will have leaves that are unique to an individual plant. The picture at the beginning just happens to have some leaves that have fewer points on the edges. It was just something I noticed when I first saw your thread yesterday.
 
Thanks everyone! :)

Alright then! I'll start feeding again tomorrow. It's already her dark period now. :) I'll look for some black strap molasses as well since i dont think i can find micothrive here. I wonder though if it's the same as soil innoculant. @DonkeyDick

Yeah this waiting game is definitely frustrating! This is my first bud so I sooooo wanna smoke her already!!! :cheesygrinsmiley::cheesygrinsmiley::cheesygrinsmiley:

@BeezLuiz I apologize for drooling over your photos. :bravo: If my buds look half as good as yours, I will be more than happy!!!
 
I wonder though if it's the same as soil innoculant.

Good question Cap. The answer is nnn not really. Indirectly though, it will help to feed the friendly bacteria in the soil. If there are any that is ;) I’m just finding this out too.
Here’s a link to a DIY inoculation solution, below. It takes ten days to make, so mycothrive or similar would be more your speed for now. Home made LABs next time. Hope that helps..


Because you can use the molasses to store the LAB juice out of the fridge it seems logical the bacteria in the soil could use it to be healthier? Make sure to avoid the blackstrap molasses with added sulphur when shopping.
I’ve been having it in my hot chocolates for a while now, trying to solve my own nutrient lock out situation. Not sure what it’s doing for my roots :laughtwo:
 
Make sure to avoid the blackstrap molasses with added sulphur when shopping.
I have not been able to figure out what is wrong with sulfured molasses.

I have been reading up on molasses lately trying to figure out why we cannot use the sulfured type. The sulfured molasses is what many, many farmers use because it is cheaper. They use it as part of their feeding program for their livestock. Sulfured molasses does contain sulfur which many, if not all, plants need for growing. The sulfur is added to the raw sugar beets or sugar cane to speed up the process of making molasses. Without the use of sulfur the production of molasses would take a lot longer because of the extra time spent boiling the syrup. Time is money, probably the primary reason that "Unsulphured" molasses costs so much more.

Unsulphured molasses does taste better to most humans which is why it is used to make Molasses Cookies or Gingerbread Cookies and is added to some types of bread dough. It is added to sugar to make "brown sugar" which is used in some recipes for cookies, cakes, bread and some glazes. I did a personal taste test and the sulfured molasses certainly is no wheres near as tasty as the unsulfured molasses that we buy in the baking section of the supermarket.

About 6 months ago I spent an afternoon reading web articles on the use of molasses as it applied to the organic growing of fruits, vegetables and flowers and. I did not find any article that claimed it was bad, when gardening or farming, to use a molasses that was made with the addition of sulfur to speed up the manufacturing process.

My plants like an occasional brew with the inexpensive molasses mixed with the water. I have put this less costly molasses into some of my brews which also have worm castings just to speed up the growth of bacteria and the plants like that too.

Enjoy the day...
 
I have not been able to figure out what is wrong with sulfured molasses.

I have been reading up on molasses lately trying to figure out why we cannot use the sulfured type. The sulfured molasses is what many, many farmers use because it is cheaper. They use it as part of their feeding program for their livestock. Sulfured molasses does contain sulfur which many, if not all, plants need for growing. The sulfur is added to the raw sugar beets or sugar cane to speed up the process of making molasses. Without the use of sulfur the production of molasses would take a lot longer because of the extra time spent boiling the syrup. Time is money, probably the primary reason that "Unsulphured" molasses costs so much more.

Unsulphured molasses does taste better to most humans which is why it is used to make Molasses Cookies or Gingerbread Cookies and is added to some types of bread dough. It is added to sugar to make "brown sugar" which is used in some recipes for cookies, cakes, bread and some glazes. I did a personal taste test and the sulfured molasses certainly is no wheres near as tasty as the unsulfured molasses that we buy in the baking section of the supermarket.

About 6 months ago I spent an afternoon reading web articles on the use of molasses as it applied to the organic growing of fruits, vegetables and flowers and. I did not find any article that claimed it was bad, when gardening or farming, to use a molasses that was made with the addition of sulfur to speed up the manufacturing process.

My plants like an occasional brew with the inexpensive molasses mixed with the water. I have put this less costly molasses into some of my brews which also have worm castings just to speed up the growth of bacteria and the plants like that too.

Enjoy the day...
Hi SmokingWings, It's tough to forget things and I've forgotten this one. I'll get back to you when I recall why sulfured molasses isn't the one we normally choose. There is a reason. Sounds like you beat it though.
 
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