Newbie Grower, Carmen Auto x Diva, Outdoors

[CBDMed]

this might be a translation issue... please describe what you mean by the stem area, and then I will answer this question

@Emilya , good question.
I hope I don't misquote you, as I have not had time to reread your articles yet.

I think what I want to say is, after I received my water probe, and discovered that the base of the homemade soil pots were dry, at least in my mind I had three real options.
One was, I could have added lots more water at the 3x diameter ring (I think as you say in your article), until it reached the bottom of the pot.
What I meant to say was that the way water spreads, this would be like adding water to soak the bottom of the pot "close to the stem".
My problem is that before I had the water probe, I did add more water as the seedlings grew, but I don't think I added nearly enough to reach the bottom of the pot.
So that is why the bottoms of the pots were dry, is that I did not add enough water, because I did not have a probe.
So the solution would have been to follow your instructions, and add the extra water at the 3x diameter mark (which was very close to the rim).
Right now I think that looks like it would have been the best solution, because it would have wetted the bottom of the pot without increasing the size of the wet sponge that the poor little plant has to drain.
However, realistically, the 3x line was close to the rim of the pot, and the way water spreads, it would have probably soaked to the edge of the pot anyway, so the result might have been similar (if not identical).

Two would be to soak the bottom of the cloth pot in water for 15 minutes, as @Azimuth suggested.
I was thinking about this, but wrongly opted for number Three.

Three was to water the pot at the rim, until the bottom of the pot was wet (which effectively soaked the pot [if not to runoff, then at least to "soakup").
That is the one I did.
I think that was a mistake, because at least hypothetically it increased the size of the wet sponge that the poor little plant has to drain, which means a loss of time.

One consolation is that I was just looking at the plants before sundown, and the fan leaves are now about 1/3 the diameter of the pot, so at least the timing of wetting the pot wasn't TOO far off... (oy).
Obviously it was far from optimal, but hopefully I can recover?

I hope I am explaining everything well, and am saying everything in the right way.
I am sure there is lots I am still misunderstanding, so I appreciate your helpful comments very much.
I am learning a ton.

 

[Azimuth]

Ok, but we are giving you advice which you then ignore and then you do something else that you came up with.

Which is totally fine, it being your plant and all. But it can get a bit frustrating on this end to try to catch up and help you fix another issue that you wouldn't have had had you followed the directions on the first go.

I don't think 1/3 perlite is a problem. That gives you very good aeration and drainage. It might cause you to water more often if the other parts of your mix don't hold onto enough water but your coco and rice hulls should both do fine there.

Can you give us a picture of this problem plant and its pot?

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, I soaked two 5g cloth pots to runoff.
The one on top has the homemade soil.
The one on bottom has the bagged boutique soil.
After they stop seeping, I will move them into the hoop tunnel (i.e., the "greenhouse without doors")

I am not sure it is a 100% accurate comparison of the watering with the 5g pots with plants that I did three days ago, but it should be some interesting data points.
I will try to keep you updated.

 

[CBDMed]

These are the seedlings that @Emilya had me water to runoff yesterday.
Just eyeballing it, the tops do seem bigger.

I will check and see if the roots seem more developed the next time I water.

 

[Emilya Green]

Three was to water the pot at the rim, until the bottom of the pot was wet (which effectively soaked the pot [if not to runoff, then at least to "soakup").
That is the one I did.
I think that was a mistake, because at least hypothetically it increased the size of the wet sponge that the poor little plant has to drain, which means a loss of time.

This third choice was an assumption that you made and acted on, without asking us first what we thought of your 3 choices. You came here for help and instruction, yet you continue to act on your own. Please let us walk you through this first one, and you will be an expert in no time.

You are gaining a lot of knowledge that you are not realizing the importance of, such in realizing that as you water the circle from the stem to 3x the diameter of the plant, at the point that your circle approaches the 1/3 of the container, it becomes obvious that with water spread, you are effectively watering the entire surface. At that point I am sure that I am not going to drown my plant by watering the entire container. The poor plant can handle it, please quit assuming that you can think for the plant. You also are equating the time it takes the plant to accomplish this task the first time as to somehow a loss of time. No such thing is happening. It is NOT a loss of time to build roots and you will find that the plant above also keeps growing during this time. You need to start the wet/dry cycle as soon as you can, and this is one of the big advantages of staying in the solo cup stage until the roots are trained and growing well. So in the large container, it may take a week to use up all of that water. Be patient. Do not water to runoff again until the plant can accomplish this. Every 4 days, water just around the edges, about 1/3 of what it takes to produce runoff. Entice the roots to grow out that way, horizontally in the container by putting the water out there on the edge. Be patient. Let the big feeder roots at the bottom drain that water.

Each time the plant can accomplish this monumental task, the roots will have grown some more. By your constant efforts you CAN fill that entire container with roots. The more roots you have, the more fruits you will end up with. This is not easy. It takes a plan, and it takes effort to work on the roots. When you water, don't think of watering the plant... know that you are watering the roots and that roots will follow water. The wise gardener uses that trick, to entice the roots to grow in a way that they would not normally grow, filling the container with roots.

 

[Emilya Green]

These are the seedlings that @Emilya had me water to runoff yesterday.
Just eyeballing it, the tops do seem bigger.

I will check and see if the roots seem more developed the next time I water.

dont water again until you cant feel ANY water weight. It will likely kill you, but be patient. Be mean. I don't expect you to water again for at least 3 or 4 days.

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, but we are giving you advice which you then ignore and then you do something else that you came up with.

Sorry, Azimuth.
I don't share this with most people, but since this is an anynymous forum, I don't suppose there is any harm.
I had a closed head injury back in the service many years ago, and life has never been the same.
I had a complete change of personality (probably a good thing), and sometimes I have a real hard time with numbers, and with following detailed instructions, and with communicating (not that I was ever great at communication, being a little autistic).
Sometimes people comment that my thought processes can seem hard to follow, like my brain is all over the place. That is probably because it is. It is both a blessing and a curse all at the same time. I can do some new things I could never do before, and there are other things I can no longer do.
(I have talked with people who have had strokes, and they give similar responses. You lose part of your brain, and it is like losing part of the freeway running through town, and now you still have to deal with daily rush-hour traffic. All you can do is try to develop the arterials and tertiary streets as you try to cope).
But it is wonderful to be alive, and 1:1 helps like nothing else ever has (almost like a miracle).
But yes, I do have a hard time following detailed instructions sometimes. I think what happens is that I have to try to related it to some part of my brain function that I still have.
I hope that is not Too Much Information, but if I seem all over the place, that is probably because that is my new life.
Sorry about that.

Which is totally fine, it being your plant and all. But it can get a bit frustrating on this end to try to catch up and help you fix another issue that you wouldn't have had had you followed the directions on the first go.

Sorry. I printed the instructions out, and will try to follow them as closely as can, after I find where I am on the script again (which I think is after the first runoff).
If I can get synced back up, I will try to stay with it after that.

But, to be fair, there really is a lot of advice out there.
Some say to use moisture probes, others say no.
Some say to let the little girls wilt dry, and others say no.
Some say to up-pot, and others say no.
(Etc.)
I am trying to pay extra attention to those who seem like they are trying to be helpful (i.e., you, and especially @Emilya, since she seems to be the resident expert (or one of them?), and she seems like she is trying to help.
But I really am under a crusher schedule, and right now it is over the top, so I may have to redirect for a couple of days, and come back later.
There is also the issue that I did not have a water probe, I did not have my up-pots yet, and the soil isn't doing what I thought. Add to that I need a new definition of "dry".
So I am a mess. I am trying to get straightened out. (And thanks a million for your and Em's and everyone's help.)

I don't think 1/3 perlite is a problem. That gives you very good aeration and drainage. It might cause you to water more often if the other parts of your mix don't hold onto enough water but your coco and rice hulls should both do fine there.

Can you give us a picture of this problem plant and its pot?

Ok. I am not sure what you mean by the problem plant and the pot (maybe too many things going on in the same thread?).
Here are the four pots.
First, here are the three homemades. (The last one is lagging a little.)
This is #1, one on the right, in the homemade soil.

This is #2 (second from right).

This is #3 (lagging a little), third from right.

And this is #4 (on the left), in the boutique soil.

I have a heavy schedule today and tomorrow and may have to disconnect until I get done.
I will try to check emails again before I pull away.
Sorry my brain doesn't work right. It was not my choice. All I can do is to try to focus hard on the positive.
Sorry if that was TMI.
Thank you and Em and everyone a million for your help!

 

[CBDMed]

This third choice was an assumption that you made and acted on, without asking us first what we thought of your 3 choices.

Oy. I guess I am making a mess.
Sorry.

You came here for help and instruction, yet you continue to act on your own. Please let us walk you through this first one, and you will be an expert in no time.

Ok, I will do my best. Thank you very much.

You are gaining a lot of knowledge that you are not realizing the importance of, such in realizing that as you water the circle from the stem to 3x the diameter of the plant, at the point that your circle approaches the 1/3 of the container, it becomes obvious that with water spread, you are effectively watering the entire surface.

Yes.

At that point I am sure that I am not going to drown my plant by watering the entire container. The poor plant can handle it,

Ok.

please quit assuming that you can think for the plant.

Ok. I am not 100% sure what that means, but I will try to pray and reflect on it.
If you see me doing that again, would you please point it out? (Because I am not sure what that means.)

You also are equating the time it takes the plant to accomplish this task the first time as to somehow a loss of time. No such thing is happening. It is NOT a loss of time to build roots and you will find that the plant above also keeps growing during this time. You need to start the wet/dry cycle as soon as you can, and this is one of the big advantages of staying in the solo cup stage until the roots are trained and growing well.

Ahh, ok. So it is the alternation between wet and dry that causes root growth.
I will try to memorize this.

So in the large container, it may take a week to use up all of that water. Be patient. Do not water to runoff again until the plant can accomplish this. Every 4 days, water just around the edges, about 1/3 of what it takes to produce runoff. Entice the roots to grow out that way, horizontally in the container by putting the water out there on the edge. Be patient. Let the big feeder roots at the bottom drain that water.

Ok, I printed this out also, and will try to follow it.
I am terribly sorry, I will need to disconnect very soon (they are texting me already).
I will try to read this and follow it.

Each time the plant can accomplish this monumental task, the roots will have grown some more.

Ahhh.... ok. That makes sense.

By your constant efforts you CAN fill that entire container with roots. The more roots you have, the more fruits you will end up with. This is not easy. It takes a plan, and it takes effort to work on the roots. When you water, don't think of watering the plant... know that you are watering the roots and that roots will follow water. The wise gardener uses that trick, to entice the roots to grow in a way that they would not normally grow, filling the container with roots.

Ahh, ok. Thank you. That makes sense. I will try to read and reread this when I get back.
I am very sorry. I do have to disconnect now. They are calling me.
I hope to be back in a couple of days.
May your helpfulness come back to you in unexpected ways.

 

[CBDMed]

dont water again until you cant feel ANY water weight. It will likely kill you, but be patient. Be mean. I don't expect you to water again for at least 3 or 4 days.

Ok, thank you.
Patience will not kill me. I can do it. I think I just had the wrong idea of what I was supposed to do.
I did sneak a peek at the roots (they seem a little more), but I will try to reread everything carefully and then check back before I water.
It is 7:30, and they are texting me. I am on deck. I have to go.
Thank you again!

 

[bluter]

I printed this out also, and will try to follow it.

writing out a few simple notes to keep yourself on track might help. a lot of growers keep written notes of when stuff was last fed, how much, any problems they encounter etc.

 

[Azimuth]

And refresh my memory a bit. These plants are autos, correct?

As to lot's of different advice on watering. There are many different ways to water, some like Em's are much more effective than others. But they'll all mostly work to some extent as this is a very resiliant plant.

HOWEVER, you cannot mix and match strategies and expect good things. So pick one strategy to follow, like Em's, and ignore other advice. It is all well meaning and likely works for the person suggesting it, but you have a watering expert in Emilya who is actively trying to walk you through this for your first time. Let her.

If you let the plant dry out the soil, the roots will go looking for more water and that is what will cause them to grow. Once they do grow, the plant now has a larger root mass to utilize to grow more top growth which will use more water faster and cause the pot to dry out a bit faster causing yet more root growth. As these cycles continue the roots will grow more and more, enough to completely fill the pot and will be able to dry the soil out from a full watering in a day or two. This is then the time to up-pot. Not before.

At least for this strategy.

So, Emilya can get you sorted if you will let her and follow her advice, step by step.

Her comment about thinking for the plant is meant to convey you trying to help in a way that you think the plant will like, but in reality the plant doesn't need you to do so.

So the instructions are pretty simple. Water fully and then let the pot dry out completely before watering again. That's it. If it takes more than 4 days to dry out then spritz the top feeder roots with just a little bit of water to keep them engaged. Once the pot dries out water it fully again.

So, no giving it just a little bit more water down the sides on day 2 for instance. Set it and forget it. It will be a mental challenge because you will want to love it and cuddle it and give it a nice cushy environment. But it will grow better if it can get some stress. Makes it 'street tough' and better able to handle it's own business rather than being a coddled plant in a greenhouse setting that struggles with a bit of wind or something else that's not perfect.

 

[CBDMed]

Hi @Emilya . Thank you so very much.

This third choice was an assumption that you made and acted on, without asking us first what we thought of your 3 choices. You came here for help and instruction, yet you continue to act on your own.

Sorry. I did not mean to. I am trying to stop, and read everything carefully, and will try my best to follow your instructions from here on out.
I printed and read The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant, and The Proper Way to Water a Seedling in a Large Final Container.
I have some questions on the articles (for clarification), which I will try to post later.

Please let us walk you through this first one, and you will be an expert in no time.

That sounds like an answer to prayer. Thank you so very much!

You are gaining a lot of knowledge that you are not realizing the importance of, such in realizing that as you water the circle from the stem to 3x the diameter of the plant, at the point that your circle approaches the 1/3 of the container, it becomes obvious that with water spread, you are effectively watering the entire surface.
At that point I am sure that I am not going to drown my plant by watering the entire container. The poor plant can handle it, please quit assuming that you can think for the plant. You also are equating the time it takes the plant to accomplish this task the first time as to somehow a loss of time. No such thing is happening. It is NOT a loss of time to build roots and you will find that the plant above also keeps growing during this time.

Thank you. I appreciate that.
I think maybe I am not communicating clearly ? All I was trying to say was that it is already apparent to me that up-potting will be a LOT better way to go, so it seems like the autos in the big pots are not going to have nearly as good of a run/yield as the Solo cups. Is that because the Solo cups are going to get more wet-dry cycles over time?

You need to start the wet/dry cycle as soon as you can, and this is one of the big advantages of staying in the solo cup stage until the roots are trained and growing well. So in the large container, it may take a week to use up all of that water. Be patient. Do not water to runoff again until the plant can accomplish this.

Understood. Will do.

Every 4 days, water just around the edges, about 1/3 of what it takes to produce runoff.

Understood. Will do.

Entice the roots to grow out that way, horizontally in the container by putting the water out there on the edge. Be patient. Let the big feeder roots at the bottom drain that water.
Each time the plant can accomplish this monumental task, the roots will have grown some more. By your constant efforts you CAN fill that entire container with roots. The more roots you have, the more fruits you will end up with. This is not easy. It takes a plan, and it takes effort to work on the roots. When you water, don't think of watering the plant... know that you are watering the roots and that roots will follow water. The wise gardener uses that trick, to entice the roots to grow in a way that they would not normally grow, filling the container with roots.

Ok, I think I see your point, and will continue to chew on that.
Only, I think I have to re-learn everything, because everything I thought would be the case is turning out wrong.
I had been thinking that an in-ground grow would be the best, because the roots can expand outward normally.
But if I understand what you are saying here, it may be that up-potting and in-pot grows could have superior results, because the repeated wet-dry cycles create more roots, which means that during flower, the plants will be able to cycle more nutrients, thus leading to greater yields?
(BIt is bowing my mind that a root-bound and bottle-fed plant could yield better than in ground???)

BIG POTS.
Ok, first for the big 5G pots.
There are about seven vertical inches (7") of soil in the 5G pots.
The "Control Group" pots are still wet to within the top 1/2 to 1" (very little change).
It looks like what you were saying about the plants drinking the water (rather than it evaporating) is absolutely right.
(So I must change my thinking.)

Girl #1 (homemade soil).
I measured with the moisture probe until the needle swung about midway, and then measured about how far down that took.
It seems Girl #1 has drunk about 3-1/4" of water (or just less than half of the water already).
I was very surprised!

Girl #2 (homemade soil) has drunk about 2-3/4" (almost half).

Girl #3 (homemade soil) is a little smaller than the others. She only drank 2-1/4" (about 1/3 of the water in the pot).
I am not sure why she is lagging.

And the biggest surprise was Girl #4, in the boutique soil.
She drank about 4-1/2" of water (more than half).

If I understand your instructions from The Proper Way to Water a Seedling in a Large Final Container, then I would be here?

>> Every 3 days or so do a partial watering of the top of the surface, again with only enough water to soak in to the first 3 or 4 inches of soil. Two specialized sets of roots are now forming, the top spreader roots designed to choke off other plants and quickly gather up rain, and the bottom tap and feeder roots. You are attempting to water only the top spreader roots, while the bottom tap/feeder roots continue to work on the water sitting in the bottom of the container for as long as it takes to clear that first full watering.

>> You may have to do this secondary top watering 2 or 3 times while you wait for the container to dry out all the way to the bottom. Force the plant to grow the necessary roots to do this job by being patient, and the plant will eventually use all of that water. Once the lift method, a dip stick or a moisture meter tells you that is is finally dry down to the last inch of container, it is time to water completely again and repeat the process, while every 3 days watering the top, until the bottom finally syncs up with the top.

So I would water the top 3-4" of the containers, and check again in 3 days or so?

Please let me post this, and then I will do the Solo cups in a separate post.

 

[Emilya Green]

Hi @Emilya . Thank you so very much.



Sorry. I did not mean to. I am trying to stop, and read everything carefully, and will try my best to follow your instructions from here on out.
I printed and read The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant, and The Proper Way to Water a Seedling in a Large Final Container.
I have some questions on the articles (for clarification), which I will try to post later.


That sounds like an answer to prayer. Thank you so very much!



Thank you. I appreciate that.
I think maybe I am not communicating clearly ? All I was trying to say was that it is already apparent to me that up-potting will be a LOT better way to go, so it seems like the autos in the big pots are not going to have nearly as good of a run/yield as the Solo cups. Is that because the Solo cups are going to get more wet-dry cycles over time?



Understood. Will do.



Understood. Will do.



Ok, I think I see your point, and will continue to chew on that.
Only, I think I have to re-learn everything, because everything I thought would be the case is turning out wrong.
I had been thinking that an in-ground grow would be the best, because the roots can expand outward normally.
But if I understand what you are saying here, it may be that up-potting and in-pot grows could have superior results, because the repeated wet-dry cycles create more roots, which means that during flower, the plants will be able to cycle more nutrients, thus leading to greater yields?
(BIt is bowing my mind that a root-bound and bottle-fed plant could yield better than in ground???)

BIG POTS.
Ok, first for the big 5G pots.
There are about seven vertical inches (7") of soil in the 5G pots.
The "Control Group" pots are still wet to within the top 1/2 to 1" (very little change).
It looks like what you were saying about the plants drinking the water (rather than it evaporating) is absolutely right.
(So I must change my thinking.)

Girl #1 (homemade soil).
I measured with the moisture probe until the needle swung about midway, and then measured about how far down that took.
It seems Girl #1 has drunk about 3-1/4" of water (or just less than half of the water already).
I was very surprised!

Girl #2 (homemade soil) has drunk about 2-3/4" (almost half).

Girl #3 (homemade soil) is a little smaller than the others. She only drank 2-1/4" (about 1/3 of the water in the pot).
I am not sure why she is lagging.

And the biggest surprise was Girl #4, in the boutique soil.
She drank about 4-1/2" of water (more than half).

If I understand your instructions from The Proper Way to Water a Seedling in a Large Final Container, then I would be here?

>> Every 3 days or so do a partial watering of the top of the surface, again with only enough water to soak in to the first 3 or 4 inches of soil. Two specialized sets of roots are now forming, the top spreader roots designed to choke off other plants and quickly gather up rain, and the bottom tap and feeder roots. You are attempting to water only the top spreader roots, while the bottom tap/feeder roots continue to work on the water sitting in the bottom of the container for as long as it takes to clear that first full watering.

>> You may have to do this secondary top watering 2 or 3 times while you wait for the container to dry out all the way to the bottom. Force the plant to grow the necessary roots to do this job by being patient, and the plant will eventually use all of that water. Once the lift method, a dip stick or a moisture meter tells you that is is finally dry down to the last inch of container, it is time to water completely again and repeat the process, while every 3 days watering the top, until the bottom finally syncs up with the top.

So I would water the top 3-4" of the containers, and check again in 3 days or so?

Please let me post this, and then I will do the Solo cups in a separate post.

You are now getting it and you should be very proud of what you have learned. It is interesting that you can so clearly see how superior the plant is in the boutique soil and can now directly see how much stronger her roots are than the others. I have given you the tools to see through soil, and see exactly how the roots are doing compared to each other. You are now seeing just how powerful the wet/dry cycle is, and how effectively it puts you in control of the situation. You are also now seeing how that a plant in a closed container can become superior to one growing naturally in the ground... its all about the roots and your ability to control them. And, the first little info nugget that you mentioned, you can now see how having more wet/dry cycles can not only allow the plant to get more water, but also more cycles of nutes, during the entire growing period. A well managed plant on a strong wet/dry cycle can end up using twice the nutes than a naturally growing plant, even one getting water every day.

Lets further refine your use of the water meter. There are essentially three readings on that thing, and only one is most important. The meter can read dry, and we all know what that means. It can read moist, and that is what most of the soil will look like below the dry line. The important reading is when the meter pegs over to the right, indicating wet. The point where it swings wet, is the top of the lake of water sitting in that soil, or the top of the water table. Watching that lake fall down into the last inch or two of the container before watering is what you want to do. Don't try to get lower than that, because that last inch or two will never really dry out because of capillary action between the roots and the sides and bottom of the container.

 

[CBDMed]

dont water again until you cant feel ANY water weight. It will likely kill you, but be patient.

Hmmm..... I just went back upstairs to check again.
I filled a Solo cup with dry boutique soil (and did not water it), for reference.
My hands are not real well calibrated, but I thought I felt just a little bit of water weight.
Can you tell better from the photos (below)?

Be mean.

Hahaha, how can i be mean to the Kind?? Hahaha.

I don't expect you to water again for at least 3 or 4 days.

Ok, I thought I should check back with you before watering, because I am not real sure what "dry" looks like (or feels like).

Sample Girl #1 top view:

Sample Girl #1 side view.
It seems like there are definitely more roots than before.
About moisture, I dunno, the top inch seems dry, but the rest of the soil seems like it might have a little moisture still--but I am not sure "just how dry" I want to make it.
As mentioned above, the "dry" cup does seem a shade lighter, but I am not sure just exactly where the "Water this now!" point is.

Here is the "dry" cup, for color comparison.
It seemed just a little lighter than the Solo cups with plants.

Here is Solo Girl #2, top view.

Here is Solo Girl #2, side view.
There are definitely more roots than before.
It does seem like there is a little moisture in the cup still, but I am not sure how dry to let it get before watering again.
(The dry cups does seem a little bit lighter, but I am not sure how much, or where the "trigger point" is.)

Please let me know if I need to change the way I take photos.
Also, what kinds of records should I be keeping?
And should I water now? Or wait another day?

THANK YOU.

 

[CBDMed]

You are now getting it and you should be very proud of what you have learned. It is interesting that you can so clearly see how superior the plant is in the boutique soil and can now directly see how much stronger her roots are than the others. I have given you the tools to see through soil, and see exactly how the roots are doing compared to each other. You are now seeing just how powerful the wet/dry cycle is, and how effectively it puts you in control of the situation. You are also now seeing how that a plant in a closed container can become superior to one growing naturally in the ground... its all about the roots and your ability to control them. And, the first little info nugget that you mentioned, you can now see how having more wet/dry cycles can not only allow the plant to get more water, but also more cycles of nutes, during the entire growing period. A well managed plant on a strong wet/dry cycle can end up using twice the nutes than a naturally growing plant, even one getting water every day.

Lets further refine your use of the water meter. There are essentially three readings on that thing, and only one is most important. The meter can read dry, and we all know what that means. It can read moist, and that is what most of the soil will look like below the dry line. The important reading is when the meter pegs over to the right, indicating wet. The point where it swings wet, is the top of the lake of water sitting in that soil, or the top of the water table. Watching that lake fall down into the last inch or two of the container before watering is what you want to do. Don't try to get lower than that, because that last inch or two will never really dry out because of capillary action between the roots and the sides and bottom of the container.

@Emilya , thank you. Wow.
I think I am starting to get the picture.
Yes, this is going to be much better!

I am having an "Amnesia" experience, and I have not touched the vaporizer yet!

I will wait until tomorrow to water the Solo cups, unless you say otherwise.

 

[Emilya Green]

a good rule to follow is that every time you think you need to do something to the plant, wait a day. Let's do another experiment. Fill up a solo cup with dry soil just like you are using in the others. Get a postal scale and weigh it. Practice judging by weight and the feel in your arms, so that you can get down to about 75g total weight in that cup before watering again. That isnt the same as a dry cup, but you will get the idea. Same thing as in the big containers, let the plant drain the water to about the 1 inch mark before watering again.

 

[CBDMed]

a good rule to follow is that every time you think you need to do something to the plant, wait a day. Let's do another experiment. Fill up a solo cup with dry soil just like you are using in the others. Get a postal scale and weigh it. Practice judging by weight and the feel in your arms, so that you can get down to about 75g total weight in that cup before watering again. That isnt the same as a dry cup, but you will get the idea. Same thing as in the big containers, let the plant drain the water to about the 1 inch mark before watering again.

Thank you, @Emilya . I will try to remember to wait an extra day.

I ordered a postal scale. Only, stores in rural Colombia aren't what one might think, so I had to order it off of the internet. It should be here in a few weeks. When it comes in I will try to get a feel for what a 75 gram plant should feel like.

I will try to let the plants in the big pots drain the water in the bottom down to 1" before I water to runoff again.

In the meantime, my aquarium bubbler came in.
I could potentially bubble the root-fertilizer overnight before watering the Solo cups tomorrow.
The only thing is that I was not able to get organic raw sugar yet. (I should have some next time.)
In the meantime, I have a little honey. Should I put a half-tablespoon of honey into the fertilizer, for bubbling?
I am not sure, because honey reportedly has an antibacterial effect, but I don't know if that will make a difference in fermented root fertilizer.

 

[Emilya Green]

Honey is no good, for the reason you stated. Unsulfured Molasses would be much better. It is very gratifying seeing my words printed out and being used to such good effect. Thank you for that.

It sounds like you have everything on track. I expect to see a growth spurt.

 

[CBDMed]

Honey is no good, for the reason you stated. Unsulfured Molasses would be much better. It is very gratifying seeing my words printed out and being used to such good effect. Thank you for that.

It sounds like you have everything on track. I expect to see a growth spurt.

@Emilya , you are amazing!
Ok, coach! Hahahahahaha.
May the growth spurt be soon!

May I please ask you another question?
How much better is organic molasses than organic raw sugar?
The reason I ask is that they grow sugar cane and sugar palm here. They sell it in rough cakes called panela. I can probably find organic panela cheap.
So, is panela a fair substitute for molasses?
Or not really?
Thank you!!

 

[Emilya Green]

How much better is organic molasses than organic raw sugar?

I don't know to tell the truth. I know that brown sugar is very similar to molasses, but I don't know how available that sugar is to the microbes in the soil, which is the whole point of putting it in there. I would suggest doing some research on the internet to see if there is a good organic substitute for molasses as a food for the microbes.