Trala’s Tent

[Trala]

Ffs, aphids! I am gone a week and what happens bogan effing cage match worthy redneck hillbilly beating aphids appear... I had aphids and they sucked. You have a team, have started treatment and 013 with his eagle eye keeping an eye on Twiggy, still an effing boss! No problem, right, little ba$tards should die off.
Glad you got to plan a sick day to regroup! Twiggy really does look big & lush. Best I can advise is to watch her flowers, I was watching the foliage and would have treated them differently from the start. Keeping them apart is good advice, too.

Where the fuck have you been?

You don’t text! You don’t write! CBFF’s don’t do that to ABFF’s!

Omg K! I’ve caught nits! NITZZZZZ!

I’m fucking mortified!

I’ll get some pics and video today. My menagerie is not looking clever. In fact they all look quite sick.

 

[Konks Dirt Empire]

20201119_.jpg

• Konks Dirt Empire
• Nov 19, 2020

Signature for Trala

This is the signature version done in the same half as$ed style and again the mistakes are mine. This time it is 10 steps though...
#1 - your profile circle thing, click on your profile circle pic thing
#2 - your signature, click signature
#3 - that is the hotlink chain do-dad and I guess it is just to note where it is at this screen
#4 - hotlink chain do-dad, click that chain link thingy and it opens up the box you will paste your journal link into
#5 - URL box, you can copy your journal from your browser address (1st page of your $hit or journal) and paste it in the box by right clicking your mouse or holding your finger in the box on your phone or tablet
#6 - Text box, type your journal name or whatever you want your siggy to show up as here
#7 - Insert button, click Insert
#8 - Save button, click Save
#9 & #10 are maybe specific to me because my signature maxes out the number of links and fails but you can see where I attempted to save and "Trala's Tent" shows as a link in my signature even though I get an error.

Try that and deal with the aphids... no biggie

 

[Konks Dirt Empire]

Where the fuck have you been?

You don’t text! You don’t write! CBFF’s don’t do that to ABFF’s!

Omg K! I’ve caught nits! NITZZZZZ!

I’m fucking mortified!

I’ll get some pics and video today. My menagerie is not looking clever. In fact they all look quite sick.

True, it isn't very CBFF to not write lol

It is a bit like being called to the school to collect your lice riden kid, but they're just irresistible plants thriving outdoors. Gloved up with warm water in a spray bottle and a drop or two of soap is where I would begin a do over... you have already begun though so stay the course or stop everything until we see how bad quite sick really is.

 

[013]

I would follow directions from the company that created the spray. There are non lethal means soaps and plain water sprays to physically remove them, but I have more of a kill them all and let God sort them out mentality.

 

[Backlipslide]

20201119_.jpg

• Konks Dirt Empire
• Nov 19, 2020

Signature for Trala

This is the signature version done in the same half as$ed style and again the mistakes are mine. This time it is 10 steps though...
#1 - your profile circle thing, click on your profile circle pic thing
#2 - your signature, click signature
#3 - that is the hotlink chain do-dad and I guess it is just to note where it is at this screen
#4 - hotlink chain do-dad, click that chain link thingy and it opens up the box you will paste your journal link into
#5 - URL box, you can copy your journal from your browser address (1st page of your $hit or journal) and paste it in the box by right clicking your mouse or holding your finger in the box on your phone or tablet
#6 - Text box, type your journal name or whatever you want your siggy to show up as here
#7 - Insert button, click Insert
#8 - Save button, click Save
#9 & #10 are maybe specific to me because my signature maxes out the number of links and fails but you can see where I attempted to save and "Trala's Tent" shows as a link in my signature even though I get an error.

Try that and deal with the aphids... no biggie

We’ve been trying konk... we’ve been trying lol

 

[Backlipslide]

Your plant can become infested when winged “colonizer” aphids land on the plant and lay eggs. Although you may not see the winged version of an aphid actually eating your plant, they are still dangerous because they can lay eggs and start a new aphid colony! Winged aphids are sometimes called “blackfly” or “greenfly” bugs depending on the color (because they are often black or green/yellow, and they look like tiny flies).

Aphids are sometimes called “Green Flies” or “Black Flies” when they have wings, but the general body shape is the same. The winged versions appear when the aphid colony gets too numerous and these bugs use their wings to fly away and lay eggs on other plants. This “black fly” is actually a winged aphid.


This “green fly” is another color variation of a winged aphid


It’s difficult to prevent aphids from getting to your cannabis plants outdoors as just a handful of winged aphids is all it takes to start an infestation. The eggs soon hatch into a juvenile form of aphids called “nymphs,” which happily start munching on your plant.
This grower started seeing white specks on their buds and thought it might be mold or bud rot. The specks were actually white aphid nymphs. Click the picture for a closeup!

Immature aphids (nymphs) usually appear white and feed on plant sap while they gradually increase in size.

The aphid nymphs mature in 7 to 10 days and shed their skin, leaving silvery exoskeletons behind on your plants. Note: If you see tiny white bugs but they look round, fat and more worm-like than these ones, you may actually have thrips.

The bottom center aphid is actually in the middle of shedding its exoskeleton in this pic.

After reaching their wingless adult form (aphids don’t grow wings when actively colonizing your plant) they are soon ready to give birth to live young and start the process over again. Most aphids in this form are female, and each one is capable of producing dozens of offspring.

Because of their quick reproduction, a few winged aphid “colonizers” can lead to hundreds or even thousands of aphids on a plant in just a few generations. A full-blown aphid infestation can get out of control in just a few weeks!

Aphids often keep reproducing on the plant until the plant becomes so stressed (or the conditions become so crowded) that the plant can no longer support their ravenous appetites. At that point, some of the aphids start being born with wings, and these winged aphids fly off in search of a new host, starting the process over again on a new plant victim.

Solution to Aphids: Get Rid of Them Quick!​

Avoid using nervous system insecticides, such as malathion, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), and Orthene (acephate). They are labeled for use on many shade trees and ornamental plants for aphid control, but are not safe to use on cannabis. If something isn’t safe to be used on edible plants, then chances are it’s not safe to use on cannabis.

1.) Check regularly for signs of aphids

The best way to prevent an aphid infestation is to catch it as soon as possible. When growing outdoors it’s pretty difficult to predict when winged “colonizer” aphids will appear, so it’s incredibly important to examine your plants at least weekly to make sure they don’t become infested while you’re not paying attention.

Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids (or any other types of bugs). The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly.

2.) Remove or Spray Off As Many Bugs As Possible

If your plant is heavily infested, it’s a good idea to try to cut down their numbers in every way possible. Depending on the infestation, one way to do that may be to simply move your plants outside and spray as many bugs off as you can with a power sprayer. It’s also a good idea to remove leaves and buds that are heavily infected.

If possible, spray off as many bugs as you can!

3.) Insecticidal soaps
Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps can be a good choice against aphids. They weaken the outer shell of aphids but are safe to use on your plants and they don’t leave much of a residue.
With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds!

4.) Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants, so again, don’t let this stuff get near your buds! There’s also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mold. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.

[/URL]

5.) Spinosad

Spinosad Products (safe & organic) – Spinosad products are organic and completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill aphids on contact and should be sprayed liberally anywhere you see aphids and especially under the leaves. Although maybe not as strong against pests as some of the more harsh insecticides, it does work and it’s very safe for plants, animals and humans!

Recommended: Monterey Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad

Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills aphids via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect’s nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to aphids, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects and spiders.

Note: Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be waste.

You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to cover all the leaves evenly when spraying them with spinosad products.

[/URL]

6.) Essentria IC3

Essentria IC3 Insecticide is a mix of various horticultural oils that is organic and safe for humans. It is often marketed as a “bed bug killer” but it can be effective against aphids when the plants are treated regularly. Unfortunately it only stays effective on the plant for about 8 hours so you will want to either apply this daily or combine with other options. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly.

7.) Beneficial Insects
Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids and are welcome guests in the garden. Although you can order ladybugs to release around your plants, they tend to fly away in just a day or two. Additionally, the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep aphids at or below acceptable levels after an infestation has already gotten started.

Ladybugs are good to have around the garden – they eat aphids and other annoying cannabis pests!


Many other “lady bird” type beetles also eat aphids


This scary looking black bug is actually a young ladybird larvae, so don’t kill it! They devour aphids as youngsters too, so it’s good to let them do their thing


Good bug! Eat those aphids!

8.) Get rid of ants if you see them!
In some cases, ants naturally “farm” (tend to) aphids in the wild in order to collect their honeydew. How crazy is that? Ants can actually be helping keep your aphid numbers up! So for some cannabis growers, controlling an ant problem can actually help control an aphid problem.

If you have ants, get rid of them! They can make an aphid problem worse!

 

[Konks Dirt Empire]

Your plant can become infested when winged “colonizer” aphids land on the plant and lay eggs. Although you may not see the winged version of an aphid actually eating your plant, they are still dangerous because they can lay eggs and start a new aphid colony! Winged aphids are sometimes called “blackfly” or “greenfly” bugs depending on the color (because they are often black or green/yellow, and they look like tiny flies).

Aphids are sometimes called “Green Flies” or “Black Flies” when they have wings, but the general body shape is the same. The winged versions appear when the aphid colony gets too numerous and these bugs use their wings to fly away and lay eggs on other plants. This “black fly” is actually a winged aphid.

This “green fly” is another color variation of a winged aphid

It’s difficult to prevent aphids from getting to your cannabis plants outdoors as just a handful of winged aphids is all it takes to start an infestation. The eggs soon hatch into a juvenile form of aphids called “nymphs,” which happily start munching on your plant.
This grower started seeing white specks on their buds and thought it might be mold or bud rot. The specks were actually white aphid nymphs. Click the picture for a closeup!

Immature aphids (nymphs) usually appear white and feed on plant sap while they gradually increase in size.

The aphid nymphs mature in 7 to 10 days and shed their skin, leaving silvery exoskeletons behind on your plants. Note: If you see tiny white bugs but they look round, fat and more worm-like than these ones, you may actually have thrips.

The bottom center aphid is actually in the middle of shedding its exoskeleton in this pic.

After reaching their wingless adult form (aphids don’t grow wings when actively colonizing your plant) they are soon ready to give birth to live young and start the process over again. Most aphids in this form are female, and each one is capable of producing dozens of offspring.

Because of their quick reproduction, a few winged aphid “colonizers” can lead to hundreds or even thousands of aphids on a plant in just a few generations. A full-blown aphid infestation can get out of control in just a few weeks!

Aphids often keep reproducing on the plant until the plant becomes so stressed (or the conditions become so crowded) that the plant can no longer support their ravenous appetites. At that point, some of the aphids start being born with wings, and these winged aphids fly off in search of a new host, starting the process over again on a new plant victim.

Solution to Aphids: Get Rid of Them Quick!​

Avoid using nervous system insecticides, such as malathion, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), and Orthene (acephate). They are labeled for use on many shade trees and ornamental plants for aphid control, but are not safe to use on cannabis. If something isn’t safe to be used on edible plants, then chances are it’s not safe to use on cannabis.

1.) Check regularly for signs of aphids

The best way to prevent an aphid infestation is to catch it as soon as possible. When growing outdoors it’s pretty difficult to predict when winged “colonizer” aphids will appear, so it’s incredibly important to examine your plants at least weekly to make sure they don’t become infested while you’re not paying attention.

Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids (or any other types of bugs). The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly.

2.) Remove or Spray Off As Many Bugs As Possible

If your plant is heavily infested, it’s a good idea to try to cut down their numbers in every way possible. Depending on the infestation, one way to do that may be to simply move your plants outside and spray as many bugs off as you can with a power sprayer. It’s also a good idea to remove leaves and buds that are heavily infected.

If possible, spray off as many bugs as you can!

3.) Insecticidal soaps
Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps can be a good choice against aphids. They weaken the outer shell of aphids but are safe to use on your plants and they don’t leave much of a residue.
With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds!

4.) Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants, so again, don’t let this stuff get near your buds! There’s also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mold. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.

5.) Spinosad

Spinosad Products (safe & organic) – Spinosad products are organic and completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill aphids on contact and should be sprayed liberally anywhere you see aphids and especially under the leaves. Although maybe not as strong against pests as some of the more harsh insecticides, it does work and it’s very safe for plants, animals and humans!

Recommended: Monterey Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad

Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills aphids via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect’s nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to aphids, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects and spiders.

Note: Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be waste.

You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to cover all the leaves evenly when spraying them with spinosad products.

6.) Essentria IC3

Essentria IC3 Insecticide is a mix of various horticultural oils that is organic and safe for humans. It is often marketed as a “bed bug killer” but it can be effective against aphids when the plants are treated regularly. Unfortunately it only stays effective on the plant for about 8 hours so you will want to either apply this daily or combine with other options. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly.

7.) Beneficial Insects
Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids and are welcome guests in the garden. Although you can order ladybugs to release around your plants, they tend to fly away in just a day or two. Additionally, the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep aphids at or below acceptable levels after an infestation has already gotten started.

Ladybugs are good to have around the garden – they eat aphids and other annoying cannabis pests!

Many other “lady bird” type beetles also eat aphids

This scary looking black bug is actually a young ladybird larvae, so don’t kill it! They devour aphids as youngsters too, so it’s good to let them do their thing

Good bug! Eat those aphids!
8.) Get rid of ants if you see them!
In some cases, ants naturally “farm” (tend to) aphids in the wild in order to collect their honeydew. How crazy is that? Ants can actually be helping keep your aphid numbers up! So for some cannabis growers, controlling an ant problem can actually help control an aphid problem.

If you have ants, get rid of them! They can make an aphid problem worse!

These are good starting points, but we are a day behind and some things are just not available in other parts of the world. There is info, we just need to see where you are at, Trala.

 

[Billpopy79]

I know you don't like too much of a song and dance so I'll put this right here.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

I took the liberty of gathering all your 420 fans for a collaborative singing of happy birthday.
It was a YouTube video upload but unfortunately YouTube have deemed its content disturbing and distressing and have therefore blocked it's upload.

Have a great day

 

[Konks Dirt Empire]

Happy Birthday, Trala! Seems like something an ABFF would at least write their CBFF about....

 

[013]

nice write up BLS, I’m newbie at aphids (for now!) but since Tra hit them once with Bug Boss it would probably be prudent to dose a second time according to the bottle, if they reappear after 2nd treatment then it’s game on. But whatevs Miss Tra decides is good to go

 

[Backlipslide]

Happy belated birthday @Trala

 

[Trala]

True, it isn't very CBFF to not write lol

It is a bit like being called to the school to collect your lice riden kid, but they're just irresistible plants thriving outdoors. Gloved up with warm water in a spray bottle and a drop or two of soap is where I would begin a do over... you have already begun though so stay the course or stop everything until we see how bad quite sick really is.

I’ve missed you so much!

I thought you’d been abducted!

 

[Trala]

I would follow directions from the company that created the spray. There are non lethal means soaps and plain water sprays to physically remove them, but I have more of a kill them all and let God sort them out mentality.

You’re such a straight edge 013!

You gotta live dangerously!

I might try the soap and water tomorrow.

 

[Trala]

Your plant can become infested when winged “colonizer” aphids land on the plant and lay eggs. Although you may not see the winged version of an aphid actually eating your plant, they are still dangerous because they can lay eggs and start a new aphid colony! Winged aphids are sometimes called “blackfly” or “greenfly” bugs depending on the color (because they are often black or green/yellow, and they look like tiny flies).

Aphids are sometimes called “Green Flies” or “Black Flies” when they have wings, but the general body shape is the same. The winged versions appear when the aphid colony gets too numerous and these bugs use their wings to fly away and lay eggs on other plants. This “black fly” is actually a winged aphid.

This “green fly” is another color variation of a winged aphid

It’s difficult to prevent aphids from getting to your cannabis plants outdoors as just a handful of winged aphids is all it takes to start an infestation. The eggs soon hatch into a juvenile form of aphids called “nymphs,” which happily start munching on your plant.
This grower started seeing white specks on their buds and thought it might be mold or bud rot. The specks were actually white aphid nymphs. Click the picture for a closeup!

Immature aphids (nymphs) usually appear white and feed on plant sap while they gradually increase in size.

The aphid nymphs mature in 7 to 10 days and shed their skin, leaving silvery exoskeletons behind on your plants. Note: If you see tiny white bugs but they look round, fat and more worm-like than these ones, you may actually have thrips.

The bottom center aphid is actually in the middle of shedding its exoskeleton in this pic.

After reaching their wingless adult form (aphids don’t grow wings when actively colonizing your plant) they are soon ready to give birth to live young and start the process over again. Most aphids in this form are female, and each one is capable of producing dozens of offspring.

Because of their quick reproduction, a few winged aphid “colonizers” can lead to hundreds or even thousands of aphids on a plant in just a few generations. A full-blown aphid infestation can get out of control in just a few weeks!

Aphids often keep reproducing on the plant until the plant becomes so stressed (or the conditions become so crowded) that the plant can no longer support their ravenous appetites. At that point, some of the aphids start being born with wings, and these winged aphids fly off in search of a new host, starting the process over again on a new plant victim.

Solution to Aphids: Get Rid of Them Quick!​

Avoid using nervous system insecticides, such as malathion, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), and Orthene (acephate). They are labeled for use on many shade trees and ornamental plants for aphid control, but are not safe to use on cannabis. If something isn’t safe to be used on edible plants, then chances are it’s not safe to use on cannabis.

1.) Check regularly for signs of aphids

The best way to prevent an aphid infestation is to catch it as soon as possible. When growing outdoors it’s pretty difficult to predict when winged “colonizer” aphids will appear, so it’s incredibly important to examine your plants at least weekly to make sure they don’t become infested while you’re not paying attention.

Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids (or any other types of bugs). The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly.

2.) Remove or Spray Off As Many Bugs As Possible

If your plant is heavily infested, it’s a good idea to try to cut down their numbers in every way possible. Depending on the infestation, one way to do that may be to simply move your plants outside and spray as many bugs off as you can with a power sprayer. It’s also a good idea to remove leaves and buds that are heavily infected.

If possible, spray off as many bugs as you can!

3.) Insecticidal soaps
Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps can be a good choice against aphids. They weaken the outer shell of aphids but are safe to use on your plants and they don’t leave much of a residue.
With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds!

4.) Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants, so again, don’t let this stuff get near your buds! There’s also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types of bugs and mold. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.

5.) Spinosad

Spinosad Products (safe & organic) – Spinosad products are organic and completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill aphids on contact and should be sprayed liberally anywhere you see aphids and especially under the leaves. Although maybe not as strong against pests as some of the more harsh insecticides, it does work and it’s very safe for plants, animals and humans!

Recommended: Monterey Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad

Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills aphids via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect’s nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to aphids, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects and spiders.

Note: Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be waste.

You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to cover all the leaves evenly when spraying them with spinosad products.

6.) Essentria IC3

Essentria IC3 Insecticide is a mix of various horticultural oils that is organic and safe for humans. It is often marketed as a “bed bug killer” but it can be effective against aphids when the plants are treated regularly. Unfortunately it only stays effective on the plant for about 8 hours so you will want to either apply this daily or combine with other options. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly.

7.) Beneficial Insects
Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids and are welcome guests in the garden. Although you can order ladybugs to release around your plants, they tend to fly away in just a day or two. Additionally, the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep aphids at or below acceptable levels after an infestation has already gotten started.

Ladybugs are good to have around the garden – they eat aphids and other annoying cannabis pests!

Many other “lady bird” type beetles also eat aphids

This scary looking black bug is actually a young ladybird larvae, so don’t kill it! They devour aphids as youngsters too, so it’s good to let them do their thing

Good bug! Eat those aphids!
8.) Get rid of ants if you see them!
In some cases, ants naturally “farm” (tend to) aphids in the wild in order to collect their honeydew. How crazy is that? Ants can actually be helping keep your aphid numbers up! So for some cannabis growers, controlling an ant problem can actually help control an aphid problem.

If you have ants, get rid of them! They can make an aphid problem worse!

Thank you so much for that info.

Look I gotta say, the red arrows pointing who the nympho insects are tho. Hon slut shaming is so 1990.... lolling!

Thanks again. You are super helpful.

 

[Trala]

I know you don't like too much of a song and dance so I'll put this right here.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

I took the liberty of gathering all your 420 fans for a collaborative singing of happy birthday.
It was a YouTube video upload but unfortunately YouTube have deemed its content disturbing and distressing and have therefore blocked it's upload.

Have a great day

Thank you

I did

 

[Trala]

They aren’t looking too great after the hair wash.

I‘ll get some pics now.

Any advice would be most appreciated.

 

[Trala]

20201119_.jpg

• Konks Dirt Empire
• Nov 19, 2020

Signature for Trala

This is the signature version done in the same half as$ed style and again the mistakes are mine. This time it is 10 steps though...
#1 - your profile circle thing, click on your profile circle pic thing
#2 - your signature, click signature
#3 - that is the hotlink chain do-dad and I guess it is just to note where it is at this screen
#4 - hotlink chain do-dad, click that chain link thingy and it opens up the box you will paste your journal link into
#5 - URL box, you can copy your journal from your browser address (1st page of your $hit or journal) and paste it in the box by right clicking your mouse or holding your finger in the box on your phone or tablet
#6 - Text box, type your journal name or whatever you want your siggy to show up as here
#7 - Insert button, click Insert
#8 - Save button, click Save
#9 & #10 are maybe specific to me because my signature maxes out the number of links and fails but you can see where I attempted to save and "Trala's Tent" shows as a link in my signature even though I get an error.

Try that and deal with the aphids... no biggie

It’s on my list of things to do

 

[Trala]

Sunday Summary

Unfortunately the girls photograph better than they actually look.

Honestly it's like they have a Snapchat filter on coz in real life the healthiest looking plant is my half dead 50 day old midget seedling.

Twiggys leaves are curling and many of the triplets leaves feel quite dry and droopy.

The Triplets and Clone

Twiggy Reveganator

 

[Backlipslide]

Thank you so much for that info.

Look I gotta say, the red arrows pointing who the nympho insects are tho. Hon slut shaming is so 1990.... lolling!

Thanks again. You are super helpful.

 

[Backlipslide]

Sunday Summary

Unfortunately the girls photograph better than they actually look.

Honestly it's like they have a Snapchat filter on coz in real life the healthiest looking plant is my half dead 50 day old midget seedling.

Twiggys leaves are curling and many of the triplets leaves feel quite dry and droopy.

The Triplets and Clone

Twiggy Reveganator

Looking good!! Looks to be right on track!!