Who Is Victory Toker?

Stltoed · Oct 21, 2020

Victorytoker said:
Thank you good sir, I now have 5 plants for the space, the smallest of the 6 is now under "experimental" category, as such ive had a bit of root slime, im pretty sure it was due to the light intrusion around the clay pebbles combined with Mg deficiency causing the plants to ge more venerable to it. 3 of the plants are now getting 254 gph of air to the roots, 2 are sharing a pump of these 2, 1 is receiving double hydroguard ( experiment ). And the smallest one is lure experiment, it is getting pumped out of the bucket and then back in every hour ( mild aeration) and has triple hydro guard.. I expected it to die.. its been 3 days and its actually grown quite a bit..

I expect to have at least 4 decent plants, though there have been a few setbacks, the root slime and the not soaking the rockwool properly being some, the lack of properly soaking the hydrotron In h2o2 being another.. ag deficiency originally mistaken for led light bleaching... ( never ever had a cal or mg deficiency in dirt.. total unfamiliar territory) sigh.. learning curves eh?

not sure why but I've also found that 2 ml hydro guard/ liter sprayed directly onto the affected roots is deadly to the slime but harmless to the plant, they seem perky afterwards thus far, i did this to the 2 experiment ones today.. might do this with regular daily p.h, tds and root inspections .. thoughts ?

A question i do have is this.
I am noticing a little bit of settlement in the bottom of a few buckets, its reddish in colour.. resembles iron bacteria. Low in the res, silty appearance. Am I correct in assuming these are dropped or un desolved minerals ? I mix with a mixing pump so I know they are mixed in properly at time of resovoir change.

Plants are drinking, tds is stable around 500ppm, one has gone down to 430ppm
Using general hydro 3 part + cal magic.
R.o. water
P.h 6.1 ( over 6 to promote calcium/mg uptake )
Hydro guard

Res temp 19.2 c - 20.4c depending on where i have the lights, I move them a few times during the day subtlety employing tipping them and dropping them over the day.. im logging this to maybe make an arduino mega with some actuators for light movers eventually.. I like robots

If you have any suggestions im all ears, if you need any specific info I can provide.
I have expensive thermal imaging. ( temp )
Same for humidity
Pressure manometer
Oxygen saturation testers ( for water )
And quality p.h. tester

Basically I can test pretty much anything air or water wise. I lack a par meter unfortunately though, and my tds meter is cheap as chips.. though it is my understanding that they al, do a decent enough job.. not as critical as potential hydrogen.

I also voice type so tend to have some rambles.. lols.. thanks for reading my novel here
<send>

Usually, the sediment is on the bottom of a tub and its white. It comes about when one compound in a nutrient reacts with another. the two products fall out of solution as a solid, which can give you a false sense security... you added Calcium a couple days ago, but it had an issue with Silica and now you don't know if you have any available Calcium or if its sand at the bottom of the tank.

Some things you can do to mediate that. There are nutrients that are more prone to reaction than others. The big three are Silica, Calmag, and micro nutrients. I wrote them down in the order they need to be added to the tank.

Silica can be a pain in the ass. If derived from Potassium its like a ratty child. It messes with your pH for days, but it NEEDS to be added before anything. You need to look into Silica,, if you choose to use it, YOU SHOULD, be sure that its made from mono-silicic acid. No Potassium!

Calmag, it can be an issue, but the way its made anymore make it much easier to use. Add it second.

Micro... micro can be just a additive or it can be part of a 3 part regimen like you and I use. Its full of metals and other stuff you don't need a lot of. Add it 3rd.

So, the above will help with elements precipitating out of solution, but you'll find someday, youll try a new product and you go t the white stuff in the res. BUT yours is red? Could it be shit from the media? I don't know dude

I'm gonna be starting a new thread in the near future... Should be 3 plants in RDWC, and 1 CBD plant in soil.

I'm going to be doing a new SCROG method i made up should be fun. Please join us

I will be advertising this momentus event on Smokeys thread if I dont tell you personally

Victorytoker · Oct 21, 2020

So far I have been

Cal magic
Then
Micro, veg, bloom in that order of general hydro nutes
Then
P.h adjust
Another 5 min mix
Then
Hydroguard after about 10 minutes of mixing

Originally ithought the red could be from a few lava rocks that are in a pot, but that is only 1 pot and the reddish sediment is present in 3 of the pots?? , i suppose i could collect a sample to figure out what it is.

I will look into the silica you've suggested. What does it do for the plant? Is this a kin to rhyno skin for plant structure ?

Wil also check out your thread when you start, im Interested to follow

Backlipslide · Oct 21, 2020

Thanks toed!! :headbanger:

Victorytoker · Oct 22, 2020

Whats causing this weird cell structure ? Any ideas ? This plant was fim ed a few days ago, but I'm seeing this on many plants.

RaggedyMan · Oct 22, 2020

I had growth like that on young plants and decided the nutes were too strong, I backed off a bit and they were fine. Might not have been the problem but it doesn't hurt to drop the tds a bit and see.

I've been following along as I love a good dwc, it's all I've ever done. I tried dirt once (indoors) and it was a complete mess.

Victorytoker · Oct 22, 2020

Thanks for the reply, I had some issues early on with some root rot, ive found a super effective solution.
I've used a hand sprayer and mixed 2 ml per liter of hydroguard into r.o water, ive blasted the roots with this every day to clear out all the little dead fragments of dying g root hairs from the earlier mag deficiency that were becoming necrotic and slimeng the roots a bit.. ive also found out that this particular strain is not very stable from this grower, others had said they had randommisuues and it was hard to dial In.. it will be a good learning one for my first I figure, start difficult and adapt.. that said, I do have other seeds en route so may consider dropping 2 of these for auto flowers and then flipping them all to flower together . Decisions decisions... imam planning on dropping nutes to around 450 ppm instead of 550 at present on a few plants.. the front one on the left has double the hydroguard in its res.. super happy.. may just have to make that a standard..

Will post root pics before after soon..

Stoned Ape · Oct 22, 2020

Victorytoker said:
Any ideas about this mutant ? Should I move it to the cactus room or keep it in my growing tent? It looks like 3 different leaves have assimilated and the plant is weird, but strong

Hi victorytoker. I read the word cactus and that caught my attention. Would this be cacti for eating purposes

Victorytoker · Oct 22, 2020

Haha, no not peyote, my wife is studying horticulture and grows succulents, carnivore plants like funnel traps and sun dews, among other plants so I have a dirt room available also for the plants that don't progress in the hydro. I have one plant upstairs thats just a nice houseplant, no plans to bud it since its a bonsai plant basically.

Victorytoker · Oct 26, 2020

Update on the girls.6

I have had a bit ofvroot issues due to the mg/cal deficiency ( makes roots weak )
So I did some experimenting

And I found something utterly lethal for root rot.
I made a way to strain the plants water to remove little fragments of broken root as the rot slime retreats and lots these little fibers go

I also made this awesome er co2 generator, super simple, highly recommend.

4l milk bottle, 2 liter clear bottle
1 tube goes from lid of 4 litre bottle to under water of2nd bottle, tube from water filled bottle goes to small fan to disperse co2

In the 4l is
3 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon active dry yeast. And water

Works for a week bubbles like mad. If you don't see bubbles shake it up. Will need replacing of yeast sugar water
1 time per week on average, takes about 6 hours to start producing...

Highly recommend this as cheap as chips co2. Better than many other ways that are expensive

.. but I digress, here are roots before treatment

hard to see as this was after the first treatment but here's the same roots less than 10 hours later

And here's today,

So what did I do?, well, as mentioned im filtering the water in each bucket every day at least once to remove excess die off, but the main thing is this.
1 liter spray bottle
2ml per liter of hydro guard.

I use a white bucket so I can see best the discoloration of the roots and any potential caught dirt appearing as a dark center mass. Every single clumping root has had a tiney mass in its center In one case it was a fruit fly.. the importance of hygiene here cannot be overstated as ive learned

Lay roots against backside of bucket and spray them aggressively with the water hydroguard mixture, the idea is you want to jet the liquid into the mass as best as possible, ignore that you may damage some roots, you will for sure, but I had a black root turn brilliant white, I believe My rot problem was due to weak roots due to mg and cal deficiency and that weak parts of root were breaking and then decomposing In the roots, starving them cause before I started this treatment ( 3 days now ) * see pic below * I use the hydroguard rich runoff complete with busted root sections to feed a plant in dirt.. its seemingly happy. I sterilize the bucket and filter every plant

Note droopy ness over all

And today

All standing up and reaching.

Ive also noted that these may have stressf lowered a bit, ive usually grown sativa in dirt prior, is this normal growth for an indica ? Or am I correct i thinking that these stressflowered and if so, should I revert or just flip em? They seem back on track to growing normally again, ive just not very familiar with growing indica. They are branching still but loads of under canopy growth. Ive tied branches down and spread it out a bit. Ive used plant twine, and some reflective taper to tie the loop of twine to the top of the basket, this way I can pull branches both down and at angle.

Lights are tipped a bit through the day to simulate rise and set, temps are dropped from 26c ( average ) in tent to around 19c at lights off, reservoir is stable at 19-20c max

Have a spider farmer sf1000 that should be here by Saturday, I will compare growth under it vs these $100 aponuo smd leds, I expect it to be a better light overall. New driver and Samsung led plus uv. I will need at least 4 lights in this tent so I thought why not make an experiment.. ive held my previous light order for the moment, if I like the sf 1000 I will get a sf 2000 and add it to the mix for budding.

That will be
3 x aponuo 200w smd panels ( full spectrum minus uv ) the these are dirty cheap but the p,ants do seem to really like em
1 X sf1000
And 1x sf 2000 I a 4x4 2 other aponuo lights wil be used as side lighting when this happens.

Speaking of experiments, this plant has no airstone at all, has 4 ml hydroguard In 4 liters of water, and has a wick set up.. I expected it to have rot on root or show issues.. a week plus now.. no issues ( no real growth either.. minimal)

I have done nothing but pour the bucket from one to another 2 times a day for aeration.. i am amazed its still okay.. experiments yield interesting findings, in this case hydroguard is amaze balls

finally, if you are a new grower folowing this then know this about led fixtures.. if you mount em to close, the plant cannot move nutrient as quickly as its photosynthesis will allow it to grow, leading to what appear to be deficiency.. this too was part of the deficiency I saw earlier, though testing results show mg deficiency was in fact present at that time, which led to some rot, plus led too close all piles up to a complex web of issues to diagnose
Mg was tested by allowing 1 cup of liquid in res to disolve after a ppm test was done ) salt remains were examined under microscope for trace mg element, none appeared visable this was chemically confirmed by carefully additio of a couple of drops of chlorine to the left behind salts. If magnesium was present then it would react to produce magnesium chloride gas, something my precision meter can detect.. .02 ppm gas produced in the process ( almost nothing ) and via some ratio math and boom, no mg in resovoir, mezning the plant used it all up fast. There was also no thermal reaction when chlorine drops were added meaning no calcium in substrate. I am now 1.5 times the cal mag for their resovoirs, no toxicity or deficiency noted now.

.. ii enjoy doing science things

I do not recommend others try this without study, magnesium chloride gas can kill you

Don't scoff at the aponuo smd leds, at 16" they are tossing 1200 par directly below them and at edge stil tossing 750 at the edge of the light envelope.. not at all bad for $100. Loud fans though.

Finally got new seed order from seedsman took 1.5 months to arrive from date of order but hey they are here.

Anybody have thoughts or exp with these strains ?

L.a peyote kush feminized

Critical purple kush feminized

Shishkapurple auto flower

Ice cool feminized cbd ( I will give these to a buddy who loves cbd for some reason.. im not a fan )

Also the auto flowers don't mention they are feminized, though im pretty sure that s what was ordered.

I assume that auto flowering can also produce males ? I'm leaning towards a preference for photo periods, I like to get a plant established before budding it, and I like a plant that can forgive my errors