1st Grow - 4 Strains - 2'x3' Closet - CFL Veg - Mars-Hydro Reflector Flower

hey there everyone!
so were starting week 6 of flowering. im having some issues here.
i already opened up a thread for this in diagnosing sikck plants in the sick plant section. but i figured i would copy/paste it here to my journal also.

ive been following bio bizzs advice, that instead of using calmag (because im using LEDS), they told me to gradually up the amount of the BIOGROW nute (not the flowering nute), graudally during flower, till about 10ml per litre (instead of the usual 4-5).

ive been doing that, and am just starting to notice problems now. im thinking maybe it might have to do with that and ive been overnuting my plants. or perhpaps its not helpign what im doing, and i need calmag?

SO HERES A COPY OF THAT POST>

its important that i mention this:
in the beggining of the grow, i considered getting CALMAG since im using LEDS. i emailed BIOBIZZ and asked them if its nescesary to use CALMAG while using their nutes.
they told me that BIOBIZZ biogrow has sufficient calcium and magnesium, and that LED growing in general needs more nutes, and not just more calmag only.
they reccomended me, that instead of using calmag, that i stick to their nutes, and just add more BIOGROW than in the grow chart. (they told me to only add additional biogrow (not the flowering nutes of theires, since their set consits of three different bottles, so they didnt just tell me to add more of everything)
for example, the reccomended schedule during flower is around 4ml biogro per litre of water. they told me that i should gradually up the amount to 10ml biogrow per litre, while watching to see hwo the plants react. and that should make up for the extra nutes that LED requires.
so ive been doing this gradually week by week. im currently at about 8ML biogrow per litre of water (instead of the reccomended 4), and i think that maybe these problems im seeing now might actually be because of teh extra nutes....
if so, what should i do? go back to the regular amount of nutes, and get CALMAG instead?


im in the begining of week 6 of flowering. and im starting to notice signs of what might look to me (first time grower) like magnesium defficiancy maybe?

however things get difficult, because the two plants on the sides show the same signs. while the plant in the middle shows different sings....

-the two plants on the sides both show these gold colored lines or splotches. and burnt tips, and the leaves overall are a slightly lighter green color than the middle plant.
-the middle plant is a darker green color, and doesnt have any of the gold colored splotches or burnt tips. but im concerned maybe with the light green line through the mdidle of the leaves. or maybe its normal?

in any case. heres a bunch of pics.
PIC OF CANOPY FROM ON TOP. to see difference in colors:
heres an overall pic of the canopy. u can see how its lighter green on the two opposite sides. those are the two strains that are getting the lighter green color, and splotches
IMG_37599.JPG



heres some pics closer up, where u can see the color difference in the strains better.
IMG_37739.JPG
IMG_37905.JPG



HERES DIFFERENT PICS OF THE LEAVES OF THE STRAINS THAT HAVE THE LIGHTER LEAF COLOR AND SPLOTCHING:
IMG_37835.JPG
IMG_37826.JPG
IMG_37709.JPG
IMG_37679.JPG
IMG_37668.JPG
IMG_37659.JPG
IMG_376411.JPG
IMG_37637.JPG
IMG_376210.JPG
IMG_37617.JPG



AND HERES A PIC OF THE STRAIN IN THE MIDDLE THAT HAS A DARKER LEAF COLOR AND NO SPLOTCHING:
IMG_37857.JPG



HERES JUST A NICE BUD SHOT ;)
IMG_37799.JPG


SO i guess that the main question is:
IS this a result of too much feeding, and are my plants suffering from nute poisoning?
OR
Is the plan of biobizz not working of increasing biogrow, and are the plants showing a nute defficiency, and should i just go out and buy some CALMAG


what dyall think? thnks:thumb:
 
Looks like there needing more P and K

thnks dusty.
is it most possible that the reason its lacking nutes, might actually be because of getting too much nutes, because of me following bio bizzs advice and giving way more biogrow than nescesary (things were doing really great before i started doing that).
so perhaps it caused a lockout, and it wont actually help me giving more P and K?
 
i just gave them a regular watering with normal neutraly PH'd water without adding any nutes.

i checked the PH of the runnoff.

the middle plant which seems the least effected, and has darker leaves, is somewhere between 7.5-8 PH runnof

the two plants on the side which have the burning on the leaf tips, and on some parts of the leaves themselves, and also is a lighter green, their runnof PH is around 7

does that show anythign?
 
hey everyone. so nearing harvest i got some questions.
i actually started a thread for this question in the 'harvesting' section of the forum. but since no one answered anything there, i figured i would just repaste it over here, so here goes:

so ive got some important questions.
ive been reading all these posts and pictures about the differences in harvesting when cloudy/clear, or amber, and etc etc. and that harvesting with 50/50% clear/cloudy gives clear headed upper effect. and harvesting with majority of amber give couchlock effect.

my question is:
doesnt the strain genetics have more to do with the actual effect of the high?
and if so, whats the correct trichrome color to look for in different strains?


for example, i chose my 3 strains, because i was looking for a good, old school, not too intense smoke.
so wouldnt that mean, that even if i do harvest my durban poison at 50% amber, it should still have a clear upper effect?
and the opposite, if i harvest it at 50 clear/50 cloudy, wont that take away from the potential potency and effect of the bud? since in any case, the genetics should cause it to be a good upper high?

i even read somehwere that a buds full potential is reached when its about 75% amber, and harvesting before that, doesnt let the bud get to its full potential that are stored in its genetics....
is that the reason why we pick out different strains?

otherwise, people could just get the fastest growing indica, harvest it at 80% clear triches, and get a sativa effect....???

what happens when u harvest a sativa starin, with 70% amber? does that cause couchlock? or just give a nice relaxing not too edgy hyper feel to the high?



so im really interested in everyones experience here, with when to harvest a sativa according to the triches?


thnks
 
I read that thread happyjoy. I don't know the answers but have been thinking about it and was hoping someone else would have answers. It's a stage of growing in which I have the most to learn and I'm always experimenting.
I think that yes most of it's in the genetics.
I'm still working on this issue so might someday change my mind about this next statement- I don't find huge differences between buds harvested at different stages. It's more related to the strain.
There will always be a basic difference between sativa and indica- so an early bloom indica effect is not the same thing as the effect of a late grown sativa.
I have a Thai sativa which is near harvest and I'll experiment with it.
One reason you'll not see many people growing sativas extra long is that most true sativas take a bare minimum of 3 months to flower, but more often four or five or even more, so people get eager to get it over with.
Even with my non sativas- I don't have any strains which seem to flower in less than 11 weeks. And at the end..there is no real end sometimes. I can have 90% cloudy, wait two weeks and have 95% cloudy. Sometimes things just seem to slow down or stop developing, and eventually I just get tired of waiting, or get worried that the bud is losing quality somehow. It's usually not so clear and obvious.

By far the best answer you're going to get with these questions is to experiment with all the stages now yourself. Then Please write us up the results in a thread ok!?! :)
If my 100% sativa seems to keep progressing then I'll experiment and take weekly samples from the last4 or 5 or 75 weeks of flowering and compare and post the results. I'm sure someone on this forum has done this stuff before
 
thnks for your input as usual weasle cracker!

i think ill try posting the question in the sticky post about triches.


like u said, im sure many people have experimented with this. its interesting that its so hard to find info on it online.

i remember reading somewhere that letting a sativa go to more amber helps take the edge off it. and opposite for an indica.
in any case. i think ill also try harvesting in 2 parts, to see the difference.

btw, doesnt it shock the plant when u harvest half of it, and leave the rest growing?
 
I suppose it is 'shocking' for a plant to be half devoured. I'm not so sure there's really a plant illness called 'shock' though. It's probably just us who get shocked about stuff. In my experience plants always goes full speed ahead as long as they are healthy and in good conditions. Sometimes they're processing and growing in ways that are not visible to us so it seems like they're stopped. Other times conditions suck- like if it's way too cold or if it's roots are totally soaked for a long time and have no air.
I could be wrong this is just my opinion.
When I harvest most of a plant before I reveg it I leave hardly any foliage. It takes a few days before I see much happen in the veg room. But it's undergoing some major changes.
Make sure to water according to the size of the plant. Like, if you hack half the foliage/bud off of it- water it as if it was half the size of before.
You may be right about the sativa though I'm sure they vary lots. My 100% sativa sometimes makes me feel too busy and it's hard to just take a break and chill when I smoke it. But in every other way I love it and it makes me feel happy and never stressed. I'll see if I can get some of it to grow amber.
I've read some plants will never go amber. Don't know if that's true for sure. I thought amber just meant the trichome was 'dead'
 
thnks again weaselcracker for ur as usualy great advice.

i actually have a new dilemna that came up.

i noticed on the durban poiosn, that the calyxes seemed really swollen. i looked closely and saw some of them cracked open, and inside theres a teency tiny little white round thing. almost resembling a mini seed. they break or smash easilyl between my fingers. theyre about the size of the tip of a ballpoint pen.

i tried getting some photos but its hard to see them. i already made a different post about this in the flowering section of the forums, but being that it didnt get any replies i figured i would post them here also.

btw i didnt see this similiar calyx thing on any of the other plants.

i read in some places, that a female plant can pollinate herself, and it often happens during the last 2 weeks of flowering, which is where the durban p is right now. it can happen if the plant gets confused by ligthing conditions, or over nuting (which is what happened to me in the past 2 weeks, thnks to biobizz's great advice....)

so im assuming that that may be the cause.... or perhpas its just the ovaries there inside the calyxs, and its all ok....? or if it is self polinated seeds, am i worried that it could spread to teh other plants....:? should i pick it now, even though its got another week, and i havent flusheed yet....?

heres the pics. (btw theres no bannanas visible anywehre, and no pollen sacks).
just calyxes that are swolen, and some split open. there are hairs coming out of all of them.


in these first two pics, my thumb is pointing to the split open calyxes.
IMG_37777.JPG
IMG_37768.JPG
IMG_37747.JPG



here its kinda hard to see. (the light colored circles are not pollen sacks!. it was a result of lighting and the flash.) its hard to see the splt open calyxes in these. but its the best photo i could get
IMG_377310.JPG
]
IMG_37717.JPG
IMG_377211.JPG
 
hey everyone. after some research, i found some information online, that talks about exactly what im seeing in the calyxs.

basically he described that in every calyx theres always a baby potential of a seed thats there.
and for some reason in some cases (due to genetics or stress), its possible that the calyxs can split open.

im not sure if thsi is whats goin on by me, buy most of the calyxs of the durban p are splitting, and these little mini seeds are almost popping out of the calyx.

i still think maybe because of stress the plant self polinated itself late, so because of that the seeds are immature. but that seems wierd to me since i dont see how that would effect the whole entire plant.
 
From your first description it sounds like your plant was pollinated and you have immature seeds.
In order for a plant to pollinate itself it has to have some sort of pollinating flower present. The ones that appear and pollinate the buds late in flowering, as you mentioned, are generally called 'nanners'. They are a form of hermaphroditism. They can be hard to see and that's why people often unexpectedly get seeds and can't figure out where they came from.
Here is a picture of a nanner I took on one of my plants a few days ago
image29837.jpg

They occur because of genetic tendencies in the plant towards 'hermie' traits and/or stresses, usually caused by the grower. Light leaks at 'night' are the most common cause. I've heard of cold temps being a cause as well.
 
i had that problem...my dehumidifier had a little led light on it and stressed out my plants with that little light and ended up getting nanners now i just have a piece of tape covering it i also put my phone on recording an leave it in my tent for 10 15sec just to check if there is no light leaks :thumb:
 
There's a little yellow light on my dehum too- which I just put in recently- and I have been wondering if this is what did it. Like you, I taped over the light. Very interesting...
 
thnks everyone for all ur feedback. im still not positive what it was. there was actually a red light from the switch on the power strip that was hanging near the durban poison plant. it must have been shining around two weeks into flower untill i caught it, but i taped over the light, must have been around a month and a half ago.
however that doesnt explain why all the "immature seeds" in the calyxs arent developed.... wouldnt they be full out seeds if it was a hermie caused from a nanner?

heres a reply from a different thread from a guy named richard:
I think they are just false seeds, a sign that your buds are "overripe". The central cell in the ovary develops into a seed kind of thing, but is not pollinated.

Never judge a harvest on breeder recommendations alone, everyone's grow environment is different.


in any case, if they were indeed polinated, and they are indeed seeds, should i take her out right away, even though i still need to do a week flush?
 
No don't worry about it just carry on and flush or whatever as you were.
I don't know if they're immature seeds- it just sounds like it. Sometimes calyxes swell up - but in my experience they are empty. Immature seeds start out as small sort white things which turn to mush easily when you crush them. I haven't seen the 'false seed' thing which the other fellow mentions.
Nanners often don't appear till late in flowering. Seeds take about 5 weeks to mature.
 
well i just spotted a nanner today! i was looking around with my michroscope and saw it. i didnt know tht they were so small.
i would have a hard time seeing it with bare eyes.

so i guess my durban poison was polinated from itself. bet even so, the "seeds" are all very small, thin, and white. kind of flatish. so it must have happened later on?
the durban looks really messed up. the other plants are all nice and fluffy, full of triches, and hairs. the durban looks kind of like a wierd mix between nice trichey flowers, mixed with very large, fat nugs,, and have all the calyxes opening up with immature white seeds. also it suddenly had a new growth of long white hairs... it seems that it really messed up the plant, putting strength into reproducing or sometihng. ill try to put up some pics tommorow
 
Back
Top Bottom