420 Magazine's Official Girl Scout Cookies Comparative Grow By Brett Blaze

Is it just the one node, or all over the plant?
Just the one node. It's unusual to see one. There are larger gaps between the nodes above and below it but looks like it's the only one.
 
Just the one node. It's unusual to see one. There are larger gaps between the nodes above and below it but looks like it's the only one.
Nice one! Could be a really awesome looking bud by the end.

No double buds on mine but on the current GSC (auto) I have a double stem..my first one of these
A09AC6F9-FE54-48E8-BFA9-AA41253E20D8.jpeg
hoping it makes something wild lol.
 
Nice one! Could be a really awesome looking bud by the end.

No double buds on mine but on the current GSC (auto) I have a double stem..my first one of these
A09AC6F9-FE54-48E8-BFA9-AA41253E20D8.jpeg
hoping it makes something wild lol.
That's what I'm thinking. It's right in the middle on the largest branch.

Cool double branch on yours.
 
Daily Update -

Stage - Flower Day 19 - 70 days above ground
#1 Bloom Day 2
#2 Bloom Day 7


#1 is still moving slowing and neither are stretching very high. For my plan this is fine. #2 is turning out to be perfect height. I just hope #1 catches up. I raised the light one more inch and it's 17" above the top of #2.

The runoff output numbers for #1 continue to be high. This may be contributing to the slow growth. There are no signs on the leaves of issues though. They both look beautiful.

My tent filled up quite nicely. Once both are fully grown it's going to be packed.

Today's Photos:









Full Tent
 
Daily Update -

Stage - Flower Day 20 - 71 days above ground
#1 Bloom Day3
#2 Bloom Day 8


Both ladies are doing great. I am really happy with the genetics of these @Weed Seeds Express GSC seeds. #1 is still pushing her branches upward trying to catch up to #2. The height difference remains at 6" with #2 sitting at 24" (61 cm) high and #1 at 18" (46 cm). #2 is still stretching slowly and I raised the light another 1" to keep it around 18" above #2. Because of the height difference the PPFD for #2 is around 900 while #1 is getting 700 PPFD. I have the light at around 95% power. At full power I was getting 1000 PPFD at 18" which IMO is pushing the limit.

I am watering 4 times a day now. The auto irrigation still sucks. I installed new ball valves which are easier to adjust and now back to dialing them in. #1 has real high output runoff ppm but shows no signs of issues. #2 has perfect output but I believe is showing beginning signs of calcium or magnesium deficiency. There are newer leaves with yellow veins. The last picture shows a little. Some areas are more prominent. I have been using 4 ml per gallon of Cal-Mag since the beginning and will increase the dosage for the next batch of solution later today.

I though I saw a few gnats yesterday. I have some yellow strips somewhere so I'll put some of those up today once I find them. This would be the first time I have had any insects in the grow tent. At least that I am aware of.

Today's Photos:










:peace: :passitleft:
 
#1 has real high output runoff ppm but shows no signs of issues. #2 has perfect output but I believe is showing beginning signs of calcium or magnesium deficiency. There are newer leaves with yellow veins. The last picture shows a little. Some areas are more prominent. I have been using 4 ml per gallon of Cal-Mag since the beginning and will increase the dosage for the next batch of solution later today.

I though I saw a few gnats yesterday. I have some yellow strips somewhere so I'll put some of those up today once I find them. This would be the first time I have had any insects in the grow tent. At least that I am aware of.
@Brett Blaze I see what your talking about in the last pic in the center and upper right corner. I have to chime in here that I don't think adding more calmg is going to change the situation. Veinal chlorosis isn't a common symptom of deficiency for any of these nutrients and can be difficult to diagnose. Google has very limited info for this topic but I did find a few thing (mostly don't seem to apply to you though).

I found a few potential causes given in an article from gardeningknowhow: Link Here

"Pinning down the exact cause of yellow veins on leaves may take some serious sleuthing. Veinal chlorosis is often the next step in serious chlorosis issues. It may be that your plant was lacking in iron, magnesium or other nutrient and conditions went on for so long that the vascular system of the plant started shutting down, no longer creating chlorophyll....

Another reason for leaves with yellow veins is insecticide or even herbicide use around the plant. If this is the case, there isn’t too much that can be done, as the plant has essentially been poisoned.

Another reason for green leaves with yellow veins might be disease or injury. Several diseases, such as certain species-specific mosaic viruses, can restrict the uptake of nutrients which may result in yellow leaf veining.

Additionally, soil compaction, poor drainage, root injury or other damage can cause veinal chlorosis, although this is usually precipitated by interveinal chlorosis. Aerating the soil and mulching may provide some relief to a plant that has yellow veins on leaves."


From the article linked above, and from my experience, veinal chlorosis is rarely the first sign of a problem. Considering that, Mg or Fe deficiency has been indicated to lead to veinal chlorosis but there should be other symptoms that present in the plant before this happens. At 4ml/gal plus what's being added from nutrients the solution should have more then enough Ca and Mg. What is the recommended dose/gal for whatever brand your using and can you put up a pic of one of the leaves?

Updated to include: The reason I ask about a pic of those leaves is to get a really close look. I'm certainly not saying your mistaken @Brett Blaze but is it possible that the yellowing is starting right next to the veins and not the veins themselves? It's hard to tell from the pic but it would be great to get a confirmation. If so, it could indicate a partial Fe lockout and then I'd actually recommend decreasing the calmg.
 
Nice gardening, Brett. Exciting to see buds forming all over the shop :headbanger:

Monitoring Output PPM (EC) and Frequent Fertigation Practices

When considering the target EC for your nutrient solution (inflow), you need to understand that the EC will rise between fertigation events. Water is removed through transpiration and evaporation faster than salts are removed. This causes the EC of the nutrient solution suspended in the coco to rise between fertigation events. Therefore, the target for the EC of the inflow is always lower than the maximum acceptable run-off score.

Plants draw water across the membranes of their roots through the process of osmosis. The force that actually drives the movement of water comes as a result of osmotic pressure that is only partially controlled by the plant. Osmosis always pulls water from a less concentrated solution to a more concentrated solution. Under fertigation, the nutrient solution is on one side of the root membrane and water inside the root is on the other. Plants produce sugars in their roots which raises the concentration of the solution within the root and causes water to enter from the nutrient solution.

The fertilizers that we use are different forms of salt. If you put too much salt in the water then the plant will not be able to pull water in from the nutrient solution. The plant will struggle to get water as the nutrient solution gets saltier. If it is very salty, osmosis can reverse and water can actually be pulled out of your plant. (nutrient burn)

EC is important because it measures the salinity of the water. Managing EC effectively encourages healthy vigorous plant growth. As discussed further below, failure to control EC will slow plants and can cause serious problems with dehydration.

EC stands for “Electrical Conductivity. Both EC and PPM measure the exact same thing, they just use different numbers to express the information.

What Happens to the Water and the Salt?

When you add nutrient solution to the coco, you are adding both water and salts. To understand how EC changes between fertigation events, it is important to consider what happens to each. Plants do not absorb nutrient solution “through a straw” or “like a sponge”. Water and salts (fertilizers) are taken up by the plant separately. Under normal conditions, water is removed about four times faster than salts are absorbed. As a result, the EC of the nutrient solution in the media will rise between fertigation events.

Where Does the Water Go?

The Plant:
Plants absorb water through osmosis leaving increased concentrations of salt in the nutrient solution in the coco. Plants also absorb nutrients and thus lower the quantity of salts in the solution. However, they remove the water much faster than they remove the salts. The vast majority of this water moves through the plant and is lost through transpiration. The water that goes to the plant raises the EC of the nutrient solution in the coco.

Evaporation: As water sits in the pot suspended in the coco between fertigation events it is constantly evaporating. The water that is lost to evaporation causes EC in the remaining nutrient solution to increase. Evaporation raises the EC of the nutrient solution in the coco.

Because of transpiration and evaporation, the EC in the coco is lowest immediately following a fertigation and “Peak EC” occurs just prior to the next fertigation event. The fertigation events themselves are responsible for lowering the EC in the coco. It may seem counter-intuitive to lower the level of salts by adding nutrient solution, but the process occurs through run-off.

The Run-off:
As fresh nutrient solution is added to the coco it pushes out old nutrient solution which had been suspended in the coco. The run-off is not the same water that you are adding in the top. Run-off is higher EC than inflow because it has been sitting in the coco and subjected to the forces of transpiration and evaporation. Run-off carries salts out of the coco. Following each fertigation, the nutrient solution in the coco is closer to the inflow EC. Run-off lowers EC by flushing excess salts.

Water is removed through transpiration and evaporation, whereas salt is only removed via run-off. As a result, frequent fertigation with adequate run-off is essential to manage EC and get the best results from your coco grow!

High Frequency Fertigation:


It is important to provide nutrient solution that is the correct EC , but the EC rises as the water sits in the pots. As a result, root zone EC is generally higher than inflow EC. Because EC gradually rises as the nutrient solution sits in the pots, fertigation frequency is one of the main ways that you need to manage the EC of the nutrient solution in the root zone. If the time between fertigation events is long, then the difference between the EC of the inflow and the EC of the nutrient solution in the root zone will be large.

Measuring the EC of the nutrient solution suspended in the root zone is impractical. However, the run-off that is generated at fertigation events is a good indication of the water that had been available to the plants. We measure run-off EC as a proxy for measuring root zone EC.

If the output is high the best solution is to increase fertigation frequency. The most likely cause of high EC run-off is excessive losses to evaporation between fertigation events. Increasing frequency will help to prevent EC from drifting too high between fertigation events.

If increasing frequency is not practical or not helping, then you should increase quantity of nutrient solution applied at each fertigation to ensure a thorough saturation of the media. Increasing the quantity of run-off should help lower the quantity of salts in the root zone. Quantities may be reduced as EC returns to the acceptable range.

Only if run-off EC is dangerously or persistently high, should flushing with a lower EC solution be considered.


When the run-off EC starts to climb, the best course of action is to increase the fertigation frequency. If this is not possible, the second-best option is to increase the quantity of run-off at each event. Only when these methods cannot control the run-off EC within the acceptable limit, should you consider lowering the EC of the inflow or “Flushing to Lower EC”.

Coco For Cannabis EC Run-off Guidelines:

If Run-off EC is:(Compared to inflow)StatusAction
Lower than inflow ECAnomalyNot a problem. Should self-correct.
Within +200*IdealMonitor EC twice weekly
+200 to +300AcceptableMonitor EC daily, consider increasing fertigation frequency
+300 to +400CautionIncrease fertigation frequency and/or Increase quantity of run-off.
+400 or HigherDangerConsider flushing
:peace:

Just wondering who wrote this? Is it yours? It sounds different to your daily fist, but I figure it must be your work?
Cheers :cheer:
 
@Brett Blaze I see what your talking about in the last pic in the center and upper right corner. I have to chime in here that I don't think adding more calmg is going to change the situation. Veinal chlorosis isn't a common symptom of deficiency for any of these nutrients and can be difficult to diagnose. Google has very limited info for this topic but I did find a few thing (mostly don't seem to apply to you though).

I found a few potential causes given in an article from gardeningknowhow: Link Here

"Pinning down the exact cause of yellow veins on leaves may take some serious sleuthing. Veinal chlorosis is often the next step in serious chlorosis issues. It may be that your plant was lacking in iron, magnesium or other nutrient and conditions went on for so long that the vascular system of the plant started shutting down, no longer creating chlorophyll....

Another reason for leaves with yellow veins is insecticide or even herbicide use around the plant. If this is the case, there isn’t too much that can be done, as the plant has essentially been poisoned.

Another reason for green leaves with yellow veins might be disease or injury. Several diseases, such as certain species-specific mosaic viruses, can restrict the uptake of nutrients which may result in yellow leaf veining.

Additionally, soil compaction, poor drainage, root injury or other damage can cause veinal chlorosis, although this is usually precipitated by interveinal chlorosis. Aerating the soil and mulching may provide some relief to a plant that has yellow veins on leaves."


From the article linked above, and from my experience, veinal chlorosis is rarely the first sign of a problem. Considering that, Mg or Fe deficiency has been indicated to lead to veinal chlorosis but there should be other symptoms that present in the plant before this happens. At 4ml/gal plus what's being added from nutrients the solution should have more then enough Ca and Mg. What is the recommended dose/gal for whatever brand your using and can you put up a pic of one of the leaves?

Updated to include: The reason I ask about a pic of those leaves is to get a really close look. I'm certainly not saying your mistaken @Brett Blaze but is it possible that the yellowing is starting right next to the veins and not the veins themselves? It's hard to tell from the pic but it would be great to get a confirmation. If so, it could indicate a partial Fe lockout and then I'd actually recommend decreasing the calmg.
Thank you. I will take some details photos tomorrow.
 
Nice gardening, Brett. Exciting to see buds forming all over the shop :headbanger:



Just wondering who wrote this? Is it yours? It sounds different to your daily fist, but I figure it must be your work?
Cheers :cheer:
It's bits and pieces of information I found. As I mention right before this post I am still learning and what I know is what I have read from others.
 
It's bits and pieces of information I found. As I mention right before this post I am still learning and what I know is what I have read from others.
Thanks for clarifying that.
Your plants are really looking good so you’re doing something right alright :headbanger:
 
Updated to include: The reason I ask about a pic of those leaves is to get a really close look. I'm certainly not saying your mistaken @Brett Blaze but is it possible that the yellowing is starting right next to the veins and not the veins themselves? It's hard to tell from the pic but it would be great to get a confirmation. If so, it could indicate a partial Fe lockout and then I'd actually recommend decreasing the calmg.
Here is a better picture. The yellow is not the vein but the leaf on the edge of the vein. I'll decrease the Cal-Mag in the solution. There are only a few branches that look like this on #2 and there are none on #1.

 
I'm wondering if @Weed Seeds Express is keeping a list somewhere of all the GSC seed/plant anomalies like the one male seed that I think Beez (?) had and how some are more sativa and others are more indica, and now your 2 bud cola.
Hi HashGirl,

Good question! We always keep track of anomalies and as we're working with a product of nature there will always be deviations and small differences in phenotypes. Although hermies rarely occur, it can always happen if you're producing on mass scale. It can be a faulty seed, it can be triggered by stress, etc. In those cases, customers can reach out to our customer service and we're more than happy to provide a proper solution. We're really easy-going in these cases.
If we notice that the occurrence of an anomaly is reoccurring, we contact our breeder to ensure it won't happen again. As we're in close contact with our breeders, we have a direct feedback loop and this is how we can ensure you get the best genetics possible.

Good luck with the comparative grow! :cheer:

Cheers,


David
 
Daily Update -

Stage - Flower Day 21 - 72 days above ground
#1 Bloom Day 4
#2 Bloom Day 9


Just finishing 3 weeks after flipping. #2 is still stretching a little. I raised the light again another 1" to keep at 18" above the canopy of #2.

I think I have the auto watering at a place I am satisfied. Good runoff the last two auto waterings.

I made a large batch of the @Prescription Blend nutrient solution and reduced the Cal-Mag by 35% from the last batches in an attempt to reduce the yellowing at the inside edges which may be Fe (iron) lock out. I need to watch #2 closely to determine if the issue is still spreading.

Today's Photos:









:peace: :passitleft:
 
Nice gardening, Brett. Exciting to see buds forming all over the shop :headbanger:



Just wondering who wrote this? Is it yours? It sounds different to your daily fist, but I figure it must be your work?
Cheers :cheer:
Looks like something from Dr, Coco from cocoforcannabis web site. Lot of great info!
Here is a better picture. The yellow is not the vein but the leaf on the edge of the vein. I'll decrease the Cal-Mag in the solution. There are only a few branches that look like this on #2 and there are none on #1.

Is it on both plants or just the taller one? Looks close to the top of the plant...could it be caused by potential light stress?
Looking Great!
 
Looks like something from Dr, Coco from cocoforcannabis web site. Lot of great info!

Is it on both plants or just the taller one? Looks close to the top of the plant...could it be caused by potential light stress?
Looking Great!
I get a lot of good info from that site.
 
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