AK1 Grows Indicas with JD Lightings

[jandre2k3]

Thanks for answering those while I was away with internet issues.....+reps for that dude!

Well, I knew you were having cable/internet trouble, and I didn't know when you'd be back for sure, so... We help each other, and that's what I did. I give you shit, but I know what your value is here, anyone would be insane to question it. Well, *I* would think them insane. Thanks for the rep!

 

[Alaskan1]

I was talking to the guy at the hydro store and only one guy in the area has that sentential controller you got there Ak1 and he says the dude loves it.
I know there are massive grows around me. I hear of a full water cooled/chiller set up the guy has already dropped 40g's in it. OMG

Last count we had about 25 grand invested so far. Will be close to 35 by the time it's all said and done after we change everything to the way we want it.

 

[Alaskan1]

Well, I knew you were having cable/internet trouble, and I didn't know when you'd be back for sure, so... We help each other, and that's what I did. I give you shit, but I know what your value is here, anyone would be insane to question it. Well, *I* would think them insane. Thanks for the rep!

Ha, We always give each other shit! Never take it personally though because friends never do!. My value is is limited compared you people like you, Xlr8, OMMMSquared and the list could go on forever.

 

[SpaceGhost]

So have some more updates, I have the ballast and controls board completed

The ballasts themselves are heat sinks so made sure there was plenty of room for air movement to keep them as cool as possible. I'll have a fan blowing on them

Ak1 I know we were chatin about voltage and amps in another thread. Those timers are only rated enough to handle 1 ballast/hood each if that. they're not a HD timer they're a water pump/fan timer not rated for ballasts

 

[SpaceGhost]

Ak1
by the time you buy 4 heavy duty timers it equals the C.A.P. 4 lamp light controller box. Please bro get this on 220. like I said I won't sleep that good till ya do. Talk to your Dad. He knows about this shit. Please.

 

[Alaskan1]

yes well I don't have the 350 to 400 it would take for me to buy everything so it's a moot point
I'd have to buy the following.
CAP system
10/3 wiring at 250ft
220 volt timer
220 volt breaker

 

[OldMedMan]

yes well I don't have the 350 to 400 it would take for me to buy everything so it's a moot point
I'd have to buy the following.
CAP system
10/3 wiring at 250ft
220 volt timer
220 volt breaker

Not really a "Like", but you know what I mean.

 

[Alaskan1]

Not really a "Like", but you know what I mean.

Yeah, I know what you mean OMM. The money for this first project is close to an end. I'm already about 300 over the estimated cost of the project. Gotta pay the bills. No one will be growin if the lights ain't on lol

 

[jandre2k3]

Ak1 I know we were chatin about voltage and amps in another thread. Those timers are only rated enough to handle 1 ballast/hood each if that. they're not a HD timer they're a water pump/fan timer not rated for ballasts

He's right on this one... Those timers are rated for 15a. From the JD Lighting's website each 1000w lamp needs 8.74a at 100% For two lamps each, that's 17.48a

You could lower them to 75% for now as they'd only draw 6.64a. For two each timer, that 13.28a.

Hey, are those timers each on a separate breaker?

 

[SpaceGhost]

AK1 your not going to want to hear this, but the cable you ran for the 120 wont even run 3 ballasts at 120. The cable is 30amp right? (yellow) 3 ballasts are over 24amps at 120 not enough leeway for 4 ballasts.

You can use the same cable/wire. the amps are cut in 1/2 when you go to 220. 4 ballast at 220v is 18 amps or something.

sockets and wiring do not know they are 120 or 220 we decide that by the way we hook it up

You have to switch this to 220. go buy a 20.00 220 50amp breaker and wire it up it's the only way.

You use low cost 120 timer to activate the C.A.P unit. looks like you have plenty extra

Fires must be prevented in design. it is next to impossible to stop a electrical fire with a fire extinguisher. 1st usually the breaker over heats and sticks from to many amps being drawn causing the cable/wire to heats up inside your walls and then it catches on fire. the wire is red fuking hot and melting the covering from the breaker to the problem (ballast,a/c) what ever you are using that is causing the overload
the 1st thing that needs to be done is call 4 help, then cut the electric, and then fight the fire if possible.

AK1 I hate to say this but get your money back from the sentential and wire this room up right. You don't need it to run.

 

[Light Worker]

I am sorry A1 but I am going to have to agree about getting the electrical right. I know from your other post how much your wife means to you and I know you would agree she is worth the extra coin to get it right. If you don't want to go 220 then at least run another 110 line or only use half your system until you can run the 220. I have a massive headache and don't feel like doing the math to see if another 110 line would be enough so I will let someone else do that. I must have got that shit that put you down last week.

Can you tell me how that filter is hooked up? I see you have a t on the outside of it. Does one duct go to the fan and the other to the lights? And from the lights to the vent in the window? If so how much air will actually go through the filter as it will take the path of least resistance? Is that fan on its own circuit?

Are all of your plants going to be in this room from now on?

 

[SpaceGhost]

AK1 I know the C.A.P box says hook up a 50amp cable. your 30amp yellow will suffice more safely on 220 then the 110. hook it up to the C.A.P unit
You could run another 110 but it's just a band aid, and this is putting a larger strain on your entire main box. I just dont see a cheaper option than getting the C.A.P 4 hood unit w/out timer (timer is 1st to break) 119.00 and wire that yellow cable up to it and hook the other end into a 50amp 220 breaker (20.00). it will work and be safer than anything you are trying now!

Go down to your main box and tell us what the amp is on the main shut off breaker in your house, please.

 

[Alaskan1]

He's right on this one... Those timers are rated for 15a. From the JD Lighting's website each 1000w lamp needs 8.74a at 100% For two lamps each, that's 17.48a

You could lower them to 75% for now as they'd only draw 6.64a. For two each timer, that 13.28a.

Hey, are those timers each on a separate breaker?

yes, i know. i already have two more timers they just aren't up there yet. There would be a total of 4 timers

 

[Alaskan1]

AK1 your not going to want to hear this, but the cable you ran for the 120 wont even run 3 ballasts at 120. The cable is 30amp right? (yellow) 3 ballasts are over 24amps at 120 not enough leeway for 4 ballasts.

You can use the same cable/wire. the amps are cut in 1/2 when you go to 220. 4 ballast at 220v is 18 amps or something.

sockets and wiring do not know they are 120 or 220 we decide that by the way we hook it up

You have to switch this to 220. go buy a 20.00 220 50amp breaker and wire it up it's the only way.

You use low cost 120 timer to activate the C.A.P unit. looks like you have plenty extra

Fires must be prevented in design. it is next to impossible to stop a electrical fire with a fire extinguisher. 1st usually the breaker over heats and sticks from to many amps being drawn causing the cable/wire to heats up inside your walls and then it catches on fire. the wire is red fuking hot and melting the covering from the breaker to the problem (ballast,a/c) what ever you are using that is causing the overload
the 1st thing that needs to be done is call 4 help, then cut the electric, and then fight the fire if possible.

AK1 I hate to say this but get your money back from the sentential and wire this room up right. You don't need it to run.

After talking with pops you can safely run 20 amps of the 220 voltage on the 12/2 wire I have. That is the max
I read the directions on both CAP and titan, each box would need 30amp min to safely run the boxes. this would require 10/3 cable

 

[Alaskan1]

i already have two runs of the 12/2 wire to the room so i could safley run the 4 lights This is the reason for 4 outlets. two timers per one run of wire at 20 amps per run

 

[SpaceGhost]

After talking with pops you can safely run 20 amps of the 220 voltage on the 12/2 wire I have. That is the max
I read the directions on both CAP and titan, each box would need 30amp min to safely run the boxes. this would require 10/3 cable

Thx for talking to Pops. We will get this running safely for ya.

 

[Alaskan1]

Well, after talking to a friend of mine who is an electrician he told me it would be fine to only run the 20 amps to the box. the 50 amps the controller directions said you could use is the MAX you could run. he said as long as you don't pull over the 20 amps of the breaker it will be fine. He said to make sure you mark the white wire with red tape so anyone would know it's hot and not neutral. All 4 lights will pull 18 amps with a some room for a little wiggle.
With that said I went and bought the CAP system with timer and a 20 amp 220 volt breaker

 

[SpaceGhost]

Well, after talking to a friend of mine who is an electrician he told me it would be fine to only run the 20 amps to the box. the 50 amps the controller directions said you could use is the MAX you could run. he said as long as you don't pull over the 20 amps of the breaker it will be fine. He said to make sure you mark the white wire with red tape so anyone would know it's hot and not neutral. All 4 lights will pull 18 amps with a some room for a little wiggle.
With that said I went and bought the CAP system with timer and a 20 amp 220 volt breaker

You say you got 2 lines running up there? Double them up on the same breaker, and tie both of them into the CAP, you just doubled your amp's and get a 30 amp breaker. just an I deer

then you can make a short 120 out of the Cap off one leg and have a 120 line right there. Like I did with the 220 out from the CAP. I just haven't set up the 120 like this yet. ( i think u can do this ask your friend 4 me, i would like to know before i get shocked)

 

[Alaskan1]

You say you got 2 lines running up there? Double them up on the same breaker, and tie both of them into the CAP, you just doubled your amp's and get a 30 amp breaker. just an I deer

then you can make a short 120 out of the Cap off one leg and have a 120 line right there. Like I did with the 220 out from the CAP. I just haven't set up the 120 like this yet. ( i think u can do this ask your friend 4 me, i would like to know before i get shocked)

I asked that question and he said NOT to double them up. he explained that electrcity takes the path of least resistence. so most of the amperage/voltage would go up one line and very little the other. This leave only one line taking up most of it and getting very overly hot while the other is doing verylittle.

 

[jandre2k3]

Okay, I knew you were working with Dad on this one, but for some reason, it slipped my mind. I will shut up now, because I know, being the professional that he is, if *HE* doesn't know about this shit, he'll tell you and then go ask someone that he trusts. Dad's a good man, I know, and we all need to just back off on this and let you two get back to it.

Sorry, buddy, I completely forgot.