All Organic High Brix

Doc

I just passed the 7th week of flowering. I figure another 1 or 2 weeks before harvest.

The last foliar feeding was at 6th week.

Question is, do you feed with teas up to the very end or do you go only water at a certain point?

CQ2 7wks flwr
CQ2_bud2_7wks_flwr.jpg

Nice!

I'm using some commercial products right now, designed to be sprayed from a sprayer on a tractor.....they spray right up until harvest, and in some crops, like strawberries, try to spray within 2 hours of harvest.

However, indoors, with the battles we face regarding PM, etc. I think it might be a good idea to stop a couple weeks before the end. With compost tea, there's really no reason not to keep spraying, just emphasize the leaves, not the buds, and make sure your tea is healthy and aerobic.

If you're feeding organic and using microbes to feed the plant, keep right on feeding right up to the end. There is no need to flush! It makes no sense at all with proper organic and high brix growing methods.
 
Of the three, Fullers earth, Diatomaceous earth or Montmorillonite clay (calcined) which do you think would make the best mineralizing component at 20% of the total soil mix? I have used all three and can't seem to find one better than the other though the Montmorillonite clay is the cheapest.
 
Of the three, Fullers earth, Diatomaceous earth or Montmorillonite clay (calcined) which do you think would make the best mineralizing componenet at 20% of the total soil mix? I have used all three and can't seem to find one better than the other though the Montmorillonite clay is the cheapest.

Do you mean as a source or micros?

I don't recommend mineralizing the soil using those products. Those are a source of silica and micro's, not minerals like we're talking about. Mineralize the soil with limestone, soft rock phosphate and gypsum, as recommended on this journal and elsewhere.
 
Doc,

For my current grow, I had already loaded my boxed organics and extras into my soil before reading how you used 2/3 supersoil on the bottom and plain soil on the top 1/3.

How ever I mixed mine with the 2/3 recommended flowering organic and 1/3 veg organic ferts on the bottom half of the 4 gal bucket. The top half got 1/3 dose of flowering nutes and 2/3 veg nutes on the top half.

Is it worth doing that?
Or should I mix it all together on the bottom 1/2 or 2/3 and plain soil on top?
Or should I have used the opposite of what I did and put the more veg ferts on the bottom and flowering on top?
OR just mix it all evenly throughout?
OR should I have just loaded the veg nutes in the soil then top dress with the flowering when the time is appropriate?

Getting ready for the next grow and I wanna do it right.
 
Doc,

For my current grow, I had already loaded my boxed organics and extras into my soil before reading how you used 2/3 supersoil on the bottom and plain soil on the top 1/3.

How ever I mixed mine with the 2/3 recommended flowering organic and 1/3 veg organic ferts on the bottom half of the 4 gal bucket. The top half got 1/3 dose of flowering nutes and 2/3 veg nutes on the top half.

Is it worth doing that?
Or should I mix it all together on the bottom 1/2 or 2/3 and plain soil on top?
Or should I have used the opposite of what I did and put the more veg ferts on the bottom and flowering on top?
OR just mix it all evenly throughout?
OR should I have just loaded the veg nutes in the soil then top dress with the flowering when the time is appropriate?

Getting ready for the next grow and I wanna do it right.
OK....I've got vertigo. Top, bottom, top, bottom.....:hmmmm:

If the soil is really hot, you'll burn the fine root hairs. The idea is to give the plants a chance to grow a bit before the roots really sink into the soil in the lower half of the pot. Sometimes, if the soil is hot enough, the roots never really get in there and merely lick at the roots.

So, I always load the hot stuff at the bottom, and regular soil at the top. Depending on how yours is mixed, you might want to copy that, or you might be fine just filling a pot and watering!

I really don't know unless I was familiar with your mix. But generally speaking, the hot stuff on the bottom 1/2 to 1/3 and the unamended soil on top.
 
All this measure it and shake it up and top dress and scratch it in and brew it up and spray it on!!!

I yearn for the good ol days of OC+, water and wait.:Namaste:

na who am I kiddin, i love it.

It's not that hard. If you use a large pot you don't have to add much. Brewing and mixing the tea takes maybe 5 minutes over 2 days.

OC+ is pretty cool too. It just doesn't deliver the final product quite as well....but still damn good.
 
Doc, sorry for goin off subject, got a quick question. Can the medium be reused after finishing a grow, or should it become the base for the next grow. My other option is to throw it into my outdoor garden and do a new mix in my secret garden.
:peacetwo:

Keep it Growing Chronicly !!​
 
Doc, sorry for goin off subject, got a quick question. Can the medium be reused after finishing a grow, or should it become the base for the next grow. My other option is to throw it into my outdoor garden and do a new mix in my secret garden.
:peacetwo:

Keep it Growing Chronicly !!​

I think it can be re-used. The question is how to amend it to get it back up to snuff? I don't have a good answer for that yet.

With Vermicrop, my favorite soil, they make a product that is designed to rejuvenate their soil for re-use. It might be as simple as that. A soil test would certainly be helpful, but I fear it's a long period of trial and error that shows us how to get it right.

They keys to re-using the soil are the same as those for using it the first time:

Humus
energy
minerals
trace elements.
 
Well you have done it again. I was pretty happy with OC+ with Teas but now as I am shut down for the summer I have no real reason not to try the Hi Brix method. I am still going to use OC+ but at half the rate, 1 tablespoon per gallon, I will mineralize as reccomended and put some oragnics in the soil, cut the soil with some perlite to make the texture needed for a wick system, and I am going to use the same 3 gallon buckets which is why I am still going to use some OC+ and feed with teas weekly. I am hoping to get away with just putting water in the reservoir and the buckets are designed to keep anything I pour into them out of the reservoir (98% anyway). I am not going to spray anything on them because humidity is so high generally here I don't feel comfortable with spraying. I will start with seeds but instead of doin 12/12 from seed I will wait a couple of weeks. It is obvious that growing is in itself very satisfying.
 
Well you have done it again. I was pretty happy with OC+ with Teas but now as I am shut down for the summer I have no real reason not to try the Hi Brix method. I am still going to use OC+ but at half the rate, 1 tablespoon per gallon, I will mineralize as reccomended and put some oragnics in the soil, cut the soil with some perlite to make the texture needed for a wick system, and I am going to use the same 3 gallon buckets which is why I am still going to use some OC+ and feed with teas weekly. I am hoping to get away with just putting water in the reservoir and the buckets are designed to keep anything I pour into them out of the reservoir (98% anyway). I am not going to spray anything on them because humidity is so high generally here I don't feel comfortable with spraying. I will start with seeds but instead of doin 12/12 from seed I will wait a couple of weeks. It is obvious that growing is in itself very satisfying.

Please, please find me and give me the link to your journal when you do that. I'm thinking that OC+ might be the tweak that is needed for high brix in small containers.
 
Please, please find me and give me the link to your journal when you do that. I'm thinking that OC+ might be the tweak that is needed for high brix in small containers.

:hmmmm: I hadn't thought about it that way... I'd love to keep it organic if I can, but they'll always be a soft spot in my heart for OC+. I can't recall coming across any studies on OC+'s effect on soil biology though. With a 3-4 month release period, that could be the ticket if they play nice together...I guess the proof could be found in the Brix at the end! :thumb:
 
:hmmmm: I hadn't thought about it that way... I'd love to keep it organic if I can, but they'll always be a soft spot in my heart for OC+. I can't recall coming across any studies on OC+'s effect on soil biology though. With a 3-4 month release period, that could be the ticket if they play nice together...I guess the proof could be found in the Brix at the end! :thumb:

I'm thinking like a 1/2 dose of OC+. With the quality teas we're using I don't think it would hurt the soil life at all....and it would keep the ERG's up as the soil gets consumed.

Speaking of soil getting consumed, here are some pics of the Lemon Thai, Purple Jack and Blue Dream.

The Blue Dreams were put into 3 gallon pots, started on 12/12. The soil was Black Gold right out of the bag. They were fed from the "kit" exclusively, until about 2 weeks ago, when they just crapped out. I added a light dose of Vigoro Rose Food and re-mineralized. Since then, I've been including organic matter in the tea, Alfalfa and kelp. I also have been feeding with fishy ferts, in addition to the kit. The small pots just didn't have enough food for the microbes. They're doing much better now, and are regaining their "shine."

The Lemon Thai and Purple Jacks were in 5 and 7 gallon pots, with un-amended Black Gold, and they have fared better, although they also ran out of gas and have been nursed back to health in a similar manner.

Lessons learned:

1.)Use large containers, the largest you can get.
2.)Fortified soil is best. I'm workin' on the right recipe.
3.)I haven't mentioned this one yet.....but High Brix plants grow faster from seed. I topped these plants at the beginning of stretch, which usually delays onset of bloom by about 2 weeks. Well, bloom was delayed for a month and the plants grew freakishly large.

Why? I speculatethat is was due to them being a bit further along and full of bloom hormones, which abide in the apical meristematic tissue. (the top of the growing tips, especially the main cola) When I topped "later" than normal, I severely cut off the hormone supply, which delayed bloom and stressed the plants. They've recovered, but I still have some funkiness on the Jack's.

I'll top a week earlier next time!

But, in spite of the mistakes, the product is still going to be decent.

Lemon Thai
IMG_26843.jpg

IMG_26852.jpg

IMG_26893.jpg

IMG_26904.jpg

IMG_26917.jpg

IMG_27011.jpg


Purple Jack Herer
IMG_26866.jpg

IMG_26876.jpg

IMG_26965.jpg

Blue Dream
IMG_26934.jpg

IMG_26944.jpg

IMG_26952.jpg

IMG_27024.jpg


Foam from one gallon of Nature's Own tea after 24 hours. This tea is the real deal:
IMG_26972.jpg


Root soak for seedlings:
IMG_26985.jpg


Group shots
IMG_26992.jpg

IMG_27002.jpg


This is what 4 115 gram jars of Lemon Paki grown high brix style looks like. There's room to spare in each jar.....normally I get 2-3 ounces in a jar this size. we're a gram over a QP in each now.
IMG_2704.jpg
 
I'm thinking that OC+ might be the tweak that is needed for high brix in small containers.

Very happy to hear this...:woohoo:
I was wondering if they would work together????

I'm using Fox Farm products now & fairly happy with them but looking for something else. I'm not ready to go full bore high brix but was thinking of switching to oc+ & start moving in the high brix direction.

Glad to hear you think it might work

:high-five:
 
I'm thinking like a 1/2 dose of OC+. With the quality teas we're using I don't think it would hurt the soil life at all....and it would keep the ERG's up as the soil gets consumed.

Speaking of soil getting consumed, here are some pics of the Lemon Thai, Purple Jack and Blue Dream.

The Blue Dreams were put into 3 gallon pots, started on 12/12. The soil was Black Gold right out of the bag. They were fed from the "kit" exclusively, until about 2 weeks ago, when they just crapped out. I added a light dose of Vigoro Rose Food and re-mineralized. Since then, I've been including organic matter in the tea, Alfalfa and kelp. I also have been feeding with fishy ferts, in addition to the kit. The small pots just didn't have enough food for the microbes. They're doing much better now, and are regaining their "shine."

The Lemon Thai and Purple Jacks were in 5 and 7 gallon pots, with un-amended Black Gold, and they have fared better, although they also ran out of gas and have been nursed back to health in a similar manner.

Lessons learned:

1.)Use large containers, the largest you can get.
2.)Fortified soil is best. I'm workin' on the right recipe.
3.)I haven't mentioned this one yet.....but High Brix plants grow faster from seed. I topped these plants at the beginning of stretch, which usually delays onset of bloom by about 2 weeks. Well, bloom was delayed for a month and the plants grew freakishly large.

Why? I speculatethat is was due to them being a bit further along and full of bloom hormones, which abide in the apical meristematic tissue. (the top of the growing tips, especially the main cola) When I topped "later" than normal, I severely cut off the hormone supply, which delayed bloom and stressed the plants. They've recovered, but I still have some funkiness on the Jack's.

I'll top a week earlier next time!

But, in spite of the mistakes, the product is still going to be decent.

Lemon Thai
IMG_26843.jpg

IMG_26852.jpg

IMG_26893.jpg

IMG_26904.jpg

IMG_26917.jpg

IMG_27011.jpg


Purple Jack Herer
IMG_26866.jpg

IMG_26876.jpg

IMG_26965.jpg

Blue Dream
IMG_26934.jpg

IMG_26944.jpg

IMG_26952.jpg

IMG_27024.jpg


Foam from one gallon of Nature's Own tea after 24 hours. This tea is the real deal:
IMG_26972.jpg


Root soak for seedlings:
IMG_26985.jpg


Group shots
IMG_26992.jpg

IMG_27002.jpg


This is what 4 115 gram jars of Lemon Paki grown high brix style looks like. There's room to spare in each jar.....normally I get 2-3 ounces in a jar this size. we're a gram over a QP in each now.
IMG_2704.jpg

You can just pack one of those jars up and mail it to me. :rofl:

(mods: I AM JOKING)
 
Will be popping seeds in late august. I wonder if the plants will take up the OC+ nutes first or that provided by the microbes? Won't really matter as long as it feeds all thru the cycle.
 
Back
Top Bottom