I am not familiar with the use of hydroguard for pests like fungus/root gnats. I thought it was more for keeping the reservoir clean from bacteria/fungus.

But one of our sponsors Sierra Natural Science has a natural pesticide that should take care of the problem. It does look more like a pest issue than a deficiency.
 
I am not familiar with the use of hydroguard for pests like fungus/root gnats. I thought it was more for keeping the reservoir clean from bacteria/fungus.

But one of our sponsors Sierra Natural Science has a natural pesticide that should take care of the problem. It does look more like a pest issue than a deficiency.
Found this as a one way to prevent/avert fungus gnats:
  • BT Bacteria – Another thing you can water your plants with is something that contains “BT” bacteria (specifically, Bacillus thuringiensis var israelensis – there is another type of BT that’s meant for caterpillars), for example Mosquito Bits. However, they need to be crushed up into a powder so it will mix in the water for the best results when watering your plants. Just like any other time, always pH your water right before giving it to your plants!

Ordered couple days ago Botnicares Hydroguard which contains BT Bacillus. Sadly it didn’t arrive on friday, so guess gotta wait till monday..
1633079664255.png


Also tried to check for the bugs and managed to catch this lil fucker, but looks more like fruit fly when I was scoping on it.
E5135C86-3051-4260-B946-02532839ECC7.jpeg


It still keeps appearing on the leaves, but the growths being faster now. Not lookin healthy yet, but I guess doable if the roots would get the needed supplements.
0D4BEB51-FBD2-400D-A5D8-BA5513FFF4C8.jpeg


Also mixed a first actual nutrient water for the potted seedlings.
~ 0.75ml/l Micro
~ 1ml/l Grow
~ 0.75ml/l Bloom
~ 0.5gram/1l Silicate
EC: 1.5
pH: 6.0 (from 6.7 to 6.0)
First 1.5 weeks been a struggle but hopefully they catch up on 3rd week.
BADFAB3D-DEC9-4268-B77F-6C321B1E4EA6.jpeg


I’ll do a proper update when I hit 2 weeks mark.
Until then wish me luck, it is needed now :oops:
 
10/3 | Day 14 | Week 2

Hello and happy fresh start of August.
Two weeks full since they emerged! (DWC Criticals being 18 days old now) And theyre at so different stages, hopefully they catch up each other on 3rd week.
Feels like 250w HPS were better decision or at least they responded better for reddish color, rather than white 4500K color temp… Which seems a bit strange. Vegging plants should like more blueish color temp.
3ACBD078-6199-4D9A-8E23-780338B1D77B.jpeg



Let’s take a quick individual comparison…

Blackberry Kush (soil)
So far her growth has been healthiest and for my liking more horizontal. She staying nice and flat. Very dense spacing between each internode :)
Shes potted in BioBizz Lightmix and Ive fed her only couple of times with:
- 0.75ml/l GHE Micro
- 1.25ml/l GHE Grow
- 0.5ml/l GHE Bloom
- 1tsp of Silicate/1l water
- 4ml/l Kelp/Seaweed extract
29C698FF-B877-4152-BCCF-7C13BE0ED044.jpeg

93D88820-1873-4A14-8714-10AE115FE8B5.jpeg


Blackberry Kush (coco)
Nothing much to mention about her… She definitely took up on herself when transplanted and little damaged the roots. She was idling for like 3-4 days so theres a lot to catch up with.
I’ve fed her with GHE’s recommendations (1ml/l of each from TriPart) ~1.2EC and pH adjusted water to 5.8-6pH
She jumps into the the third week mini like this:
56293DAF-EF4B-4FBB-BC30-83C759D25457.jpeg


Critical 2.0 XL (coco)
This one also having a very lanky growth. I guess these Criticals needs their own time to settle down. Just a bit worried since 3rd week is starting and shes still very small.
I’ve fed the coco plants with the same mix (1ml/l of each) and rising the dose up on next week.
F6C53067-BEA2-4662-820E-9479C64A2F57.jpeg


Critical 2.0 XL (DWC)
I guess shes getting better and recovering from whatever it was..
Shes bout to open up 5th node
D15455EE-96A9-4202-9CD6-098977FD9AA4.jpeg


She also having a very lanky growth. Thought no matter what in DWC plants would grow more bushy…
Theres from 0.5 to 2inch gap between each internode and she just keeps growing vertically like inch or two per day.
So trying to figure out if I should TOP or NOT.. would be so easy to fim her as well:
FD774AF1-BCF3-4478-8677-4983A88D5A03.jpeg

27050F2C-F8E2-452E-8F7A-41E1731EF52E.jpeg


Yesterday did a res change with a new mix:
- 0.35ml/l Cal/Mag
- 1.7ml/l Grow
- 1.2ml/ Micro
- 0.7ml/ Bloom
- 2.5g/10L Silicate
EC: 1.6 (looks like she would go even higher)
pH: adjusted to 5.8 (overnight it keeps climbing up to 6.1-6.2)
Res water temp: 21C
Tent temp: 24-27C

Hopefully Hydroguard arrives by monday. And for the last ”root porn”… The brown/dark tint probs comming from GHE’s Micro. HPS makes them look more yellowish but they actually look happy and white.
5C6DBA20-2A2A-48EA-8C5A-65B3FB719D23.jpeg
 
I'd give her a day or two for recovery, and start some LST.

She seems to be getting over whatever was slowing her down- :thumb:
That being said, you should start to see more rapid growth, especially if you start training. Normally I personally wouldn't top an auto that age unless she was particularly healthy and robust, that being said it's been done (by others and you).

Once you start some training you should start to see more of that bushiness your seeking.

The medium has zero to do with how bushy a plant grows my friend (unless it's absolutely garbage). She looks to be on the path to recovery from what I can see this morning...
 
If I’m not mistaken, a reddish spectrum light like HPS will result in more lanky growth. A more bluish spectrum is supposed to result in more compact growth and shorter internode distance. My brother used 6500k T5s to start his seedlings and those nodes were actually too close (practically on top of each other).
 
If I’m not mistaken, a reddish spectrum light like HPS will result in more lanky growth. A more bluish spectrum is supposed to result in more compact growth and shorter internode distance. My brother used 6500k T5s to start his seedlings and those nodes were actually too close (practically on top of each other).
Nope that sounds about right. I used to use a MH/HPS combo light. Always started with the MH, as the blue spectrum is more prevalent vs the red dominant hps to finish in flower
 
My money is on success :cool:
Bet placed.

I'd give her a day or two for recovery, and start some LST.

She seems to be getting over whatever was slowing her down- :thumb:
That being said, you should start to see more rapid growth, especially if you start training. Normally I personally wouldn't top an auto that age unless she was particularly healthy and robust, that being said it's been done (by others and you).

Once you start some training you should start to see more of that bushiness your seeking.

The medium has zero to do with how bushy a plant grows my friend (unless it's absolutely garbage). She looks to be on the path to recovery from what I can see this morning...
Yup going to start LST:ing soon/when the main stalks gets a bit better ”anchored”.

If I’m not mistaken, a reddish spectrum light like HPS will result in more lanky growth. A more bluish spectrum is supposed to result in more compact growth and shorter internode distance. My brother used 6500k T5s to start his seedlings and those nodes were actually too close (practically on top of each other).
This is what Ive been actually researchin a lot lately..
reddish spectrum (in my case red/far red 2100K) contributes more space between each internode which leads to more lanky growth. Sigh.

Wanted to test HPS since thats so far my most powerful light (33000lm). It is true they responded better for reddish color than 4000-4500K white color temp. Actually 4000-4500K white is the worst spectrum to give for a cannabis plant at any stage.
56BFD799-0E63-40C0-A24E-9F28EED356E9.jpeg



Wasn’t satisfied to the HPS yet, so assembled a 85W CFL 6500K blue spectrum, which should be ”the best” color temp for the leaf growth/vegging stage. Being said 85w CFL doesn’t have light power at all, but the spectrum is good.
965B1150-9556-4C94-92F8-D885CE8BCB5B.jpeg



Life would be so much easier if I would just buy a full spectrum LED. Wish I would have a spare 300$ now for that. :eye-roll:
 
Life would be so much easier if I would just buy a full spectrum LED. Wish I would have a spare 300$ now for that. :eye-roll:
I feel ya, brother!
Lol fuck thats me, spend money on a better lighting just because the plants wont grow up how I want :ganjamon: jokes. Needed to upgrade my lighting anyway.

Did a quick search for the best budget and optimal lighting surface for my 60x90x140 tent. Decided to buy @Mars Hydro TS1000 Hope your LED’s are worth of it! Not too easy to find them from Finland, but found one site selling it for 175€. Most LED’s here on the market are Quantum boards with Samsung chips.
1633341139311.jpeg


How well @Mars Hydro chips perfom against those?
At least reviews for TS1000 were 4.7/5 so should expect a quality budjet light.

Also very excited to see how well it covers the 2x2 surface, since I can fit 4 plants (for now) on that area. Sweet spot would be like 15" above the plants and dimming options good to have, makes it easier for fine tuning.
1633341185037.jpeg

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1633341304019.jpeg
 
I think you'll like that light!

Also, don't be shy/hesitant to have two lights in the same grow space, if you've got the room.
250w HPS with a cool tube would be a nice addition, but TS1000 takes some room and really cba with the cool tube tubing… that eats a lot of space in that small tent.
Might add those 100W 4000K panels if it starts to feel of a need more light :D
 
10/6 | Day 17 | Week 2


Hello!
@Mars Hydro TS 1000 arrived yesterday :bravo:
Hopefully the growth catches up even a little now.
Lamp is set 15" above the plants and running at 100% power.

DWC Critical still having some issues and can’t figure out what exactly is it. Guessing it could be Calcium deficinecy, even tho theres now 0.7ml/l (6.5ml total) available in res. Could be fungus gnats as well…the damn Hydrogurd still has not arrived. 9€ shipping and takes over a week to be shipped inside the same country. No customs or non. Meh.

Otherwise this is half way thru the second week:

TS 1000 & assembled:
FC7A52A0-9897-4A00-B69E-6DB7E0AB5591.jpeg

F087E70B-008E-46D1-A052-A0B6A7B67ACD.jpeg


Blackberry Kush (soil)
Shes in my like :) short and bushy. Might top her and start LST:ing today
Feed:
- 0.8ml/l GHE Micro
- 1.4ml/l GHE Grow
- 0.66ml/l GHE Bloom
- 0.33ml/l Cal/Mag
EC of the mix: 1.4 & pH lowered to 6.2
843F4E72-E156-4B01-8542-DA133015FA42.jpeg

Should top between 4th and 5th node:
5B5C0717-47C9-4270-BDF0-744900DEA1F0.jpeg


Blackberry Kush (coco)
She still being sooo tiny. Not much to mention about her… she has grew a bit since last sunday.
Feed is still GHE’s recommendation 1ml/l of each from TriPart. Also gave her 0.35ml/l Cal/Mag
Irrigation water pH: 5.8 & EC: 1.2
EBC951D1-E9BB-4E49-A1CF-D91654405C35.jpeg



Critical 2.0 XL (coco)
Lol at the growth.. By own mistakes: too big differences in day/night temps, too much red spectrum and not correct lamp distance ”managed” to grow like 3" gap between each internode.
Hopefully the stalk strengthens fast enough to support the plant as it should grow faster now.
0005FC52-F9A3-4056-9103-099C945673AB.jpeg


Critical 2.0 XL (DWC)
Again, not looking the happiest plant.. Symptoms would mostly match on Calcium deficinecy or Fungus gnats.
Could pH fluctuations cause this kind of symptoms? Theres not that much yo-yoing tho. Overnight after res change pH usually climbs up to 6.3 and adjusting pH back to 5.8 bout twice per day.
She already got a lot better under the HPS, so gotta hope she likes the Led as well..

10/4 reservoir change:
- 0.7ml/l Cal/Mag
- 0.8ml/l GHE Micro
- 1.8ml/l GHE Grow
- 0.85ml/l GHE Bloom
- 1tsp Silicate/9L
EC: 1.7
pH: 6.5 and lowered to 5.7
28F63700-92D3-4DE7-8A8F-2CD65E15C497.jpeg


Roots 10/6:
5203EADD-00BF-4880-8FA9-166B62AC1DDE.jpeg


Second node of actual leaves starting to get worse as three fingers and first actual leaves has died :S
3891A864-037B-4DC4-86E4-16D074E5698D.jpeg
 
10/6 Update

Topped soil Blackberry Kush :)
4D75F403-CDEC-4766-912F-C36212750648.jpeg

4 potential nodes
6F6CD965-21F5-4331-85A2-D0C0CEDFB68C.jpeg


Starting to LST in couple days. Giving her day or two to recorver if she stressed at all.
 
Hi V

Here’s the images that I can’t attach to the PMs

Mulder’s chart showing antagonistic relationships between elements:
9C587F0F-6F61-452C-9F50-82B764E10BEC.png

You can see from this that too much Fe can cause problems with Ca uptake.

And here’s an excerpt from the weird Micro label showing 6% EDDHA - 11% DPTA = 0.12% for Fe (I went with the 0.12%)

FAED7FDD-E1C3-47D1-9609-8FB00E8AAAB7.jpeg
 
Yes, sorry for the confusion. I edited my above post.
:rolleyes:

Just had a nice after-lunch bowl.
Hah no problemo. But as we realized it was Micro containing more Fe, is it the same deal? If only Fe available from Micro is there still going to be excess Fe? Silica had 2.4% so thats a real iron boost then yeah.

And this one goes to the book, thanks for this
Mulder’s chart showing antagonistic relationships between elements:

9C587F0F-6F61-452C-9F50-82B764E10BEC.png
 
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