DWC & Soil: Verb's Purple Puncher Autos, Mars Hydro TS 1000

[StoneOtter]

Hey Otter good to have you back!
Yeah I guess excess fe or tox being solved by now. Feels like it is hard to find a good balance in nutrition using DWC or then the plant might be very nutrient sensitive, or the excess Fe having still negative impact.. Hard to tell

But true dat TS 1000 were real worth of budget upgrade. It is doing great work and feels perfect for that small tent.

Having periods where I can't be here is hard. Migraines and keeping the place up mainly. I appreciate your patience.
I have a tsl2000 to use in the next phase of my grow. Great lights these @Mars Hydro 's!

 

[Rexer]

Thanks for the information brother
Earlier tried in ”a test sense” to feed coco Critical first then DWC with GHE recommendations (a bit higher overall NPK than right now) the coco Critical showed excess/nitrogen toxicity as mentioned in my previous update (days 24-25) but DWC Critical did not show same kind of ”clawing”. But instead of clawing these symptoms were more present: dark green foliage, slight burn on the tip of the largest fan leaves, weak new shoots, weak stems overall and couldn’t keep up with the leaf growth and most likely had effect on nutrient uptake.
So Ive tried to do some research how does excessive amounts of each macro nutrient affect on other nutrients uptake, how do they present the symptoms and do they have synergism with other elements causing more unwanted occurrence.

Found this chart would make sense for me:
Went thru every bottle and calculated the nitrogen nitrates. Cal/Mag agent, GHE Micro, Grow, pH minus are VERY RICH in nitrates. Every bottle has Nitrogen in a nitrate form 70% all the way up to 90% and those remaining 30-10% from total nitrogen are ammoniacal.

So watching the N antagonism above; too much N would lockout/reduce Ca and K uptake…which would make 100% sense by looking at my plant. Green grows like no tomorrow but new shoots being weak and flimsy, Ca deficiency looking symptoms appear there and there, newest growth (micro nutrient deficiences) looking symptoms etc.

So the best option to do would sound like reduce the N amount, right? Thats not too easy… if I reduce the amount of micro (primary N source) then Im reducing all the micro nutrients including Ca… Okey that would be doable to increase Ca&Mg values from other source example adding Cal/Mag. BUT Cannas Cal/Mag does contain 5.9% N total which has 5% Nitrogen nitrates. So that would be plus minus zero. Or even worse in worst scenario if the amount of nitrates just increases if theres two sources instead of one. Do you follow me?
So being said there is too much N available, excess N reduces other nutrient uptake and excessive N fucks up the N&K ratios…even more if theres excess and it has negative effect on K uptake.
Nitrogen being the easiest macro nutrient to absorb and it absorbs from 5.5 all the way up to 7pH for example. So there most likely wont be a situation where plant would have problems to absorb N, compared to other nutrients.

This is the most reasonable thing I come up with. Also DWC Critical being between week 4-5 and no signs of pre-flowering (in my understanding too much N delays or could even block the start of the flowering).

If @FelipeBlu could confirm that Im on the right track would be great! Dunno if youre still on the road brother and have no time.
Also thinking about trying the lucas formula to achieve about 1:2 ratio of N&K, but idk if increasing Bloom (0-5-4) would quickly skyrocket the P values(?) And what would be the max ppm for the phosphorus at this stage to avoid any further lockouts or nutrients excess

I'll be straight up honest- that was one of the reasons I was surprised you choose a cal mag with a high N in it. GH makes a product, Calimagic - it's fairly available worldwide and is a 1-0-0. Total Plant Science has a 0-0-0 Cal mag product, but it's harder to get a hold of (at least here).

Even switching to a Lucas formula grow, you would still encounter some N issues, **I think**, as you still need to supplement with Cal mag.

Do you still have a fan pointed at the plant?

 

[Verbalist]

I'll be straight up honest- that was one of the reasons I was surprised you choose a cal mag with a high N in it. GH makes a product, Calimagic - it's fairly available worldwide and is a 1-0-0. Total Plant Science has a 0-0-0 Cal mag product, but it's harder to get a hold of (at least here).

Even switching to a Lucas formula grow, you would still encounter some N issues, **I think**, as you still need to supplement with Cal mag.

Do you still have a fan pointed at the plant?

Searched it online and it was told that it contains Ca,Mg, hummus and fulvic acids. But when got the bottle the label said 5.9% N, 6.8%Ca 2.4% LOL..

So pretty much ditched the calmag agent as well…
Since GHE Micro has new ingredients, meaning it has 6% of Ca now days. And there has been upped GHE Bloom’s Mg to 3%.

Excess N might be still a problem if the plant cant handle 1:2 (example 1ml/l micro and 2ml/l Bloom aka Lucas formula) …to achieve NPK ratio of 5-10-10
But since tap water contains ~75ppm of Cal&Mg and from current dosage of Micro 0.8ml/l (6%Ca) I get extra 60ppm of Ca and from bloom 0.45ml/l (3% Mg) extra 20ppm of Mg it gets close to 150ppm ish of Calcium and Magnesium in current res mix.
If going to try lucas formula the Ca and Mg ratios rise as primary NPK values rise. So can’t see, why not?

Also just read many articles regarding how plant uses Ca and Mg. That makes sense if any Ca def appears the first thing should try is to rise VPD. Ca indeed should absorbs better if it present in smaller quanties. And rising VPD: When humidity lowers and/or temp rises the VPD rises and leaf transpiration increases when it has to absorb more Calcium.

Most calcium deficiencies are actually not the result of Ca missing in nutrient solutions but they are caused by faulty Ca transport, which is often related with environmental issues. Calcium transport depends substantially on transpiration, so the solution to Ca deficiencies can be as simple as increasing your vapor pressure deficit (VPD). Ca is also absorbed more effectively when its at a lower concentration than at a higher one, so often increasing Ca will decrease its transport to leaf tissue.

If remember right Felipe sent me this article to understand Calciums role better. And source for it: Calcium’s behavior in hydroponics – Science in Hydroponics

Main problem right now could be the imbalace of nutrition.. Too much N, N&K ratio is like 1:1 or even more nitrogen nitrates than Potassium. And this in my understanding causes symptoms of excess nutrients and deficiences at the same time.

And yes Ive a clip fan pointed on them. They get easily wind burn. that could also be because of the imbalance in nutrition causing weak immunity system and lockouts on micronutrients.

 

[FelipeBlu]

Total N: 75ppm, P: 16ppm, K: 81ppm & Cal/Mag about 150ppm total.

Thanks for the information brother
Earlier tried in ”a test sense” to feed coco Critical first then DWC with GHE recommendations (a bit higher overall NPK than right now) the coco Critical showed excess/nitrogen toxicity as mentioned in my previous update (days 24-25) but DWC Critical did not show same kind of ”clawing”. But instead of clawing these symptoms were more present: dark green foliage, slight burn on the tip of the largest fan leaves, weak new shoots, weak stems overall and couldn’t keep up with the leaf growth and most likely had effect on nutrient uptake.
So Ive tried to do some research how does excessive amounts of each macro nutrient affect on other nutrients uptake, how do they present the symptoms and do they have synergism with other elements causing more unwanted occurrence.

Found this chart would make sense for me:
Went thru every bottle and calculated the nitrogen nitrates. Cal/Mag agent, GHE Micro, Grow, pH minus are VERY RICH in nitrates. Every bottle has Nitrogen in a nitrate form 70% all the way up to 90% and those remaining 30-10% from total nitrogen are ammoniacal.

So watching the N antagonism above; too much N would lockout/reduce Ca and K uptake…which would make 100% sense by looking at my plant. Green grows like no tomorrow but new shoots being weak and flimsy, Ca deficiency looking symptoms appear there and there, newest growth (micro nutrient deficiences) looking symptoms etc.

So the best option to do would sound like reduce the N amount, right? Thats not too easy… if I reduce the amount of micro (primary N source) then Im reducing all the micro nutrients including Ca… Okey that would be doable to increase Ca&Mg values from other source example adding Cal/Mag. BUT Cannas Cal/Mag does contain 5.9% N total which has 5% Nitrogen nitrates. So that would be plus minus zero. Or even worse in worst scenario if the amount of nitrates just increases if theres two sources instead of one. Do you follow me?
So being said there is too much N available, excess N reduces other nutrient uptake and excessive N fucks up the N&K ratios…even more if theres excess and it has negative effect on K uptake.
Nitrogen being the easiest macro nutrient to absorb and it absorbs from 5.5 all the way up to 7pH for example. So there most likely wont be a situation where plant would have problems to absorb N, compared to other nutrients.

This is the most reasonable thing I come up with. Also DWC Critical being between week 4-5 and no signs of pre-flowering (in my understanding too much N delays or could even block the start of the flowering).

If @FelipeBlu could confirm that Im on the right track would be great! Dunno if youre still on the road brother and have no time.
Also thinking about trying the lucas formula to achieve about 1:2 ratio of N&K, but idk if increasing Bloom (0-5-4) would quickly skyrocket the P values(?) And what would be the max ppm for the phosphorus at this stage to avoid any further lockouts or nutrients excess

Heya V!
Yep, still in Portugal and internet has been sketchy.
A 1N:2K should be okay - I understand that over 1:3 can cause issues. I am very surprised that you are experiencing N toxicity at your current level - this strain sounds like a pain in the ass! 100ppm N should be okay. I wouldn’t worry about your fertilizer being mostly (>90%) nitrate - excessive ammoniacal nitrogen can burn and cause lanky stemmy growth - i.e. long internodal spacing.

As far as P - personally, I would not go over 60ppm - 35 to 45 should be sufficient.
As always, best of luck!

 

[Rexer]

Searched it online and it was told that it contains Ca,Mg, hummus and fulvic acids. But when got the bottle the label said 5.9% N, 6.8%Ca 2.4% LOL..

So pretty much ditched the calmag agent as well…
Since GHE Micro has new ingredients, meaning it has 6% of Ca now days. And there has been upped GHE Bloom’s Mg to 3%.

Excess N might be still a problem if the plant cant handle 1:2 (example 1ml/l micro and 2ml/l Bloom aka Lucas formula) …to achieve NPK ratio of 5-10-10
But since tap water contains ~75ppm of Cal&Mg and from current dosage of Micro 0.8ml/l (6%Ca) I get extra 60ppm of Ca and from bloom 0.45ml/l (3% Mg) extra 20ppm of Mg it gets close to 150ppm ish of Calcium and Magnesium in current res mix.
If going to try lucas formula the Ca and Mg ratios rise as primary NPK values rise. So can’t see, why not?

Hey Verb!
Well if you decide to go that route (Lucas formula), there is a calculator online that can be found quickly with the help of a search engine. My 1st grows were Lucas Formula, it does provide for the basic needs.

Also just read many articles regarding how plant uses Ca and Mg. That makes sense if any Ca def appears the first thing should try is to rise VPD. Ca indeed should absorbs better if it present in smaller quanties. And rising VPD: When humidity lowers and/or temp rises the VPD rises and leaf transpiration increases when it has to absorb more Calcium.

If remember right Felipe sent me this article to understand Calciums role better. And source for it: Calcium’s behavior in hydroponics – Science in Hydroponics

ooh I'll have to read that one later. And my apologies if my previous comment was a bit off, I just want you to succeed brother.

Main problem right now could be the imbalace of nutrition.. Too much N, N&K ratio is like 1:1 or even more nitrogen nitrates than Potassium. And this in my understanding causes symptoms of excess nutrients and deficiences at the same time.

I haven't the slightest clue why she's being so fussy, but you're doing great, lots of my questions are to get the ball rolling and prompt conversations that might help.

And yes Ive a clip fan pointed on them. They get easily wind burn. that could also be because of the imbalance in nutrition causing weak immunity system and lockouts on micronutrients.

Wind burn is normal with a fan pointed right at them. It can get them rather ugly and hard to look at (where the wind hits them). West Hippie dropped a valuable nug of info on fans, he uses a bunch of small ones, and a large one on a timer to come on a few times a day. I gotta copy and use that timer trick.

I should take a picture to show the wind burn on my plants. It looks like something is amiss, but when you look at the parts of the plant that the wind isn't touching, you see that healthy green. Now...that being said, too strong a wind can create problems (such as closing plant stomata), that's a whole conversation on its own. In my case, they get wind burn from the AC/heater, and I don't want to remove that from the tent.

Using a fan can to create a constant breeze can cause a few benefits, including:

• Beneficial micro fractures
• Release of hormones and auxins that help the plant strengthen stems and create more "bushiness", among other benefits.

I've yet to add Si to any of my grows for some time. Right now I can barely get my thumb and index to touch on the trunks.

I know that probably doesn't solve your current problems for the nutes- but it's one of those balancing properly details that can have a huge benefit...and I wanted to explain why I asked again about the fan.

Also, I'm still learning too brother and the conversations in your journal have helped (and hopefully helped other readers).

 

[Verbalist]

Heya V!
Yep, still in Portugal and internet has been sketchy.
A 1N:2K should be okay - I understand that over 1:3 can cause issues. I am very surprised that you are experiencing N toxicity at your current level - this strain sounds like a pain in the ass! 100ppm N should be okay. I wouldn’t worry about your fertilizer being mostly (>90%) nitrate - excessive ammoniacal nitrogen can burn and cause lanky stemmy growth - i.e. long internodal spacing.

As far as P - personally, I would not go over 60ppm - 35 to 45 should be sufficient.
As always, best of luck!

Feel you corruption over interwebs xD

And yes thats what im most likely aiming for 1:2 ratio for N&K and could be done with lucas formula.
In my understanding it could create an excess in N at that low ppm if theres not enough K or Ca absorbtion isn’t in function.
Also there has been res mixes where Ive had +150ppm of N and most likely less K than that.

Couple Critical 2.0 XL strain reviews saying its typical for this plant to have very long spacing between internodes and it does not have that much leaf growth compared to similar hybrids.
So thinking bout nutrition it would make sense it needs far less N and lots of K + micros to build and keep the stems strong.

Also just read a journal where some1 grew Critical 2.0 XL from same seed bank as mine and using a DWC. And seems like he never gave it more than 0.79ml/l (3ml/gallon) of GHE Micro which is ~50ppm of N. He had a slight N bump on 3rd week and late ripening when he used PK booster (assuming that N bump were to balance N&K ratio for a bit). End of the day he harvested such an awsome plant, and on this site (not linking it, since thats against the rules) *growdiaries* having a bud picture from his Critical as the strain thumbnail on that site..

Obv theres different phenos but looks like this strain could do well with so little N..

This is still complete mystery for me when Criticals start to droop/wilt every day like 3-4hrs before lights go off.. It didn’t seem to matter if I run 20/4 or 18/6 lights.
Now runnin 18/6 schedule and it gets droopy/wilts like this 2-3hrs before lights go off:

And at the morning when I wake up shes standing and perks up like nothing would happened:

Some cases thats normal when plants adapt to their schedules. They usually start to wilt max 1h before lights go off. But 3hrs before lights go off seems a bit weird(?)
Ive tried with different dimming but it has no effect if it runs a day with 25% or 75%, they start to wilt always couple hours before.

 

[Verbalist]

10/23 | Day 34 | Week 4

Saturday! And bout to finish the 4th week.
Haven’t updated much lately. Hopefully it gets more interesting when Criticals would start flowering, eh..

BB Kush on soil doing great and the stretch phase seems to be over and budlets starting to develop faster.
Criticals has no signs of pre-flowering yet.. and its bout to start the 5th week. Don’t know if I should try to ”force” autoflowers to start flowering? Have anybody else tried that before?
Just read giving them couple days 12/12 lights would trigger them into bloom. Is this complete BS or can it be done? Obv Criticals not being in the best shape, YET.. but + 5 weeks and no signs of pre-flowering sounds a bit odd since they should only flower for 45-49 days.

10/23
Tent temp: 22.1C / night 19.5C
Res temp: 20C steady
Humidity: 50%
VPD: 1.45

Blackberry Kush automatic
Shes slowly starting to produce those purplish/black flowers Going to look great in a week!
Haven’t touched on a single leave since all the colas pretty much stretched at the same height. Might defol a bit later when need more light to the lower canopy.
Feed:
- 2ml/l GHE Micro
- 4ml/l GHE Bloom
- 0.25g/l Silica
- beneficials + bloom boosters
Irrigation water EC: 2 / TDS: 1000ppm
pH adjusted to 6.3

Slight chlorosis on newest foliage

Critical 2.0 XL (coco)
She got an own cabinet for couple of days. Need some space for training and do some light stressing with a fan so the stems would get more structure.
My 2x2,5 tent is getting waay too small for these three.. I guess the tent upgrade is needed. Would need like 4x4 tent.
Cabinet lighting is 2x 100W LED Panels - 4000K color temp
Feed:
~150ppmish of Bio Cal/Mag
- 1.5ml/l Micro
- 3ml/l Bloom
- 0.25g/l Silica
- Bio Topmax for Fulvic & hummus acids
EC: 1.5
pH adjusted to 5.8 before irrigation

Oh yeah and topped off her two uppest nodes couple days ago. She was growing way too lanky.

Critical 2.0 XL automatic (DWC)
I guess shes doing a bit better now.. Even tho the issue still remains and just can’t figure out what it is. But since the growth is faster and the issue has slowed down it looks heaps better now..

Did a res change couple days ago, and decided to grive a try for Lucas formula.
It is funny how people see the Lucas formula in two completely different ways…
The way as I and some other sees it would be just 1:2 Micro:Bloom. Just ditchin the grow and using micro and bloom 1:2 when achieving NPK ratio of 5-10-10.
Then other people blindly just swears it has to be 8ml/gallon of Micro and 16ml/gallon of Bloom.. This one makes sense as well since this dose gives you 1.5 EC / 750ppm TDS if using RO water. This EC could be a bit high for young seedlings and a bit low for flowering plants. But I gues that way the idea being that you use the same ml amounts thru the whole growth. Personally don’t trust these 8ml of micro and 16ml of bloom would be any kind of magic dose for the plants. Using it 1:2 ratio makes a lot more sense.

Did the new res mix like so:
- Tap water 0.15 EC (~100ppmish of Ca&Mg)
- 1.2ml/l GHE Micro
- 2.4ml/l GHE Bloom
- 0.5ml/l Hydroguard
- 0.5g/10L Silica
EC: 1.3 / 650ppm (Overnight dropped to 1 so topped res with 1:2 micro and bloom to get 1.5 EC) now pretty stable between 1.4-1.5 — Gradually increasing EC depending if the plant keeps drinking and eating.
pH being adjusted daily to 5.8 (climbs max to 6.1)

Shes too big to be lifted off from the tent What am gonna do?? Need bigger tent like ASAP.

No signs of pre-flowering… shes just making whole lot new bracts but wont start making pistils?

Also noticed theres some slight chlorosis on the newest growth and newer leaves having blue hue on edges. In my understanding that reffers to phosphorus deficiency(?)
Dunno hows that possible..only if P being locked out somehow.
New res mix contains 55ppm of Phosphorus.

PS. @Mars Hydro TS 1000 doing great work! Had to dim it down to 50% because Critical keeps growing and growing so theres only like 30cm gap between the lamp and top of the canopy

 

[Verbalist]

Hey @Rexer I’ll get back on your #125 post soon! In a hurry right now.

Hey Verb!

Theres some fair points I need to take a look at

 

[FelipeBlu]

New growth is typically a bit lighter green if she’s growing fast - those leaves will likely turn greener as she catches up.

 

[Verbalist]

Hey Verb!
Well if you decide to go that route (Lucas formula), there is a calculator online that can be found quickly with the help of a search engine. My 1st grows were Lucas Formula, it does provide for the basic needs.

Hey Rexer! Hope youre doing fine and enjoin it

As mentioned on my prev update that Im kinda like using Lucas now. Just doing it 1:2 micro:bloom and gradually increasing doses. Ive found couple online calcs for ppm conversion when using that ratio, but Felipe actually taught me how to quickly calc them.

I haven't the slightest clue why she's being so fussy, but you're doing great, lots of my questions are to get the ball rolling and prompt conversations that might help.

Ik brother I really appreciate it
Shes being, or more likely the whole strain being so sensitive.. Now feels like some kind of new stretch phase started out of nowhere

whole lot new shoots everywhere but no single sign of pre-flowering and shes 5 and half weeks… She has overgrown out of the tent and longest nodes almost touching the lampp. Smh, cant lift the lamp anymore.. Srsly need a new tent but fuck my budget.

Wind burn is normal with a fan pointed right at them

Yuh Im having clip fan circulating the air inside the tent and bigger oscillating fan outside pointed to the tops. Had to place it outside of the tent due the lack of the space. Which means cant even keep the zippers closed

They all set up so theres nice breeze all over and plants wont get wind burnt anymore.

New growth is typically a bit lighter green if she’s growing fast - those leaves will likely turn greener as she catches up.

Hey Felipe! Yup Ive noticed that as the speed of veg growth increases. It wont really show up on the pictures but theres whole lot leaves havin blue hue on the edges. That alone probs wouldn’t be a big deal, but theres more ”symptoms” which reffers to P deficiency.

• Blue hue on leaves
• Lower/mid leaves r lush dark green and tips might be slightly burnt.
• Purple stems and petioles (cant be LED than either because it keeps appearing all over the plant, on lower fan leaves which being in shade)
• Purple vertical streaks appears on fastest growing points
• Ca def looking symptoms as well
• Poor photosynthesis (under 18/6 lights plant starts to wilt 2-3hrs before lights go off)
• Root growth has slowed down (but at least they look healthy)

As the affected leaves get worse they usually end up something similar to this:

Just more brownish, but tips and edges curl just like that and they just drop off or crumbles if touched

 

[Verbalist]

10/24 quick update

Topped res this morning (~1.5L)
- 1.1 EC before topping (dropped from 1.4)

Now feeding Lucas on full str (1.6 EC / 800ppm)

Went thru my diary and noticed during these 5 weeks never went over 35ppm of Phosphorus.
Found a study/example values how much phosphorus being used during the cannabis life cycle in this comparison:

Figure A who gave a higher ”P spike” during the pre-flowering/bud set and lowered it down for the rest of the bloom yielded 23% more than Figure B who gave higher P doses during the flowering.
But the thing was that both gave from 130-200ppm of P during the pre-flowering.

So my current res NPK is now something like:
N: 100ppm
P: 120ppm
K: 195ppm

This whole strain is giving me a headache.. Now the res should have some what recommended P&K ppm values and I set the lights timer on 12/12 for couple of days to see if it starts to produce calyxes and pistils.
Plant just grows new bracts, no calyxes nor pistils..
Started to wonder if this strain has fuckkin poor half baked genetics and theres not enough ruderalis to be an autoflower.

Not to mention I ordered total 5x of these seeds and only 3 of them germinated, one of them never break the ground, it just died when planted it. These two Criticals just barely made it and theyre not in the best shape either.

If 12/12 and high enough P&K values does not ”trigger” the bloom then Im bout to throw it… Garden of Green is supposed to be trusted seed bank. But actually bought the seeds from local head shop. They never sent these Critical seeds in their original GOG packages..which makes me think if they breed these by themselves. Would explain a lot

 

[West Hippie]

10/24 quick update

Topped res this morning (~1.5L)
- 1.1 EC before topping (dropped from 1.4)

Now feeding Lucas on full str (1.6 EC / 800ppm)

Went thru my diary and noticed during these 5 weeks never went over 35ppm of Phosphorus.
Found a study/example values how much phosphorus being used during the cannabis life cycle in this comparison:

Figure A who gave a higher ”P spike” during the pre-flowering/bud set and lowered it down for the rest of the bloom yielded 23% more than Figure B who gave higher P doses during the flowering.
But the thing was that both gave from 130-200ppm of P during the pre-flowering.

So my current res NPK is now something like:
N: 100ppm
P: 120ppm
K: 195ppm

This whole strain is giving me a headache.. Now the res should have some what recommended P&K ppm values and I set the lights timer on 12/12 for couple of days to see if it starts to produce calyxes and pistils.
Plant just grows new bracts, no calyxes nor pistils..
Started to wonder if this strain has fuckkin poor half baked genetics and theres not enough ruderalis to be an autoflower.

Not to mention I ordered total 5x of these seeds and only 3 of them germinated, one of them never break the ground, it just died when planted it. These two Criticals just barely made it and theyre not in the best shape either.

If 12/12 and high enough P&K values does not ”trigger” the bloom then Im bout to throw it… Garden of Green is supposed to be trusted seed bank. But actually bought the seeds from local head shop. They never sent these Critical seeds in their original GOG packages..which makes me think if they breed these by themselves. Would explain a lot

Thanks for the phosphorus charts . I’ve been looking for phosphorus for hydro for the top off water . That helps I’ll quit looking for it .
Garden of Green would more than like you to let them know and where you got them, might even send you more !
I know my girls are a little dark but the sponsor want me to use more calmag for the light . I’m at the manufacturer’s suggest dose with no lock outs !

 

[Verbalist]

Thanks for the phosphorus charts . I’ve been looking for phosphorus for hydro for the top off water . That helps I’ll quit looking for it .
Garden of Green would more than like you to let them know and where you got them, might even send you more !
I know my girls are a little dark but the sponsor want me to use more calmag for the light . I’m at the manufacturer’s suggest dose with no lock outs !

Np mate! Theres a N and K charts from the same study as well attached on bottom if youve got use for them.

Yeah might DM them.. Guess theyre not sponsors here?

And yup Ive watched your diary over 1000ppms / over 2 EC when they were way smaller than mine and seems had no problem at all.. Starting to belive in that more and more every day this patch is just legit dog shit. Should just order a bit more expensive seeds from trusted banks and pay couple more bucks rather than support locals

 

[West Hippie]

I’ve got the charts bookmarked , thanks .
Yes they are sponsors and they love 420 or they wouldn’t be here . I guarantee they’d like to hear from you and where you got them ! A lot of fakes out there. Also have you checked out MSNL seeds , There sponsors. Full line of autos last time I looked . And they all guarantee delivery.
I need to get a calmag that’s 0-0-0 , I’m using 1-0-0 and it has mine pretty dark at lights out . That Perfect Sun Led Goliath V2 is the same as my 1000 watt hps and close to half the electricity.

 

[Verbalist]

@GardenofGreen is your legit user?

I’ve got the charts bookmarked , thanks .
Yes they are sponsors and they love 420 or they wouldn’t be here . I guarantee they’d like to hear from you and where you got them ! A lot of fakes out there. Also have you checked out MSNL seeds , There sponsors. Full line of autos last time I looked . And they all guarantee delivery.
I need to get a calmag that’s 0-0-0 , I’m using 1-0-0 and it has mine pretty dark at lights out . That Perfect Sun Led Goliath V2 is the same as my 1000 watt hps and close to half the electricity.

Theres actually not too many Cal/Mag supplements which would only contain CaO & MgO.. always some additional gunk which isn’t necessary. But if you dont mind if its organic Cal/Mag supplement for hydro, I would suggest BioBizz’s 4.2% Ca and 2.1% Mg nothing else.

 

[Rexer]

I’ve got the charts bookmarked , thanks .
Yes they are sponsors and they love 420 or they wouldn’t be here . I guarantee they’d like to hear from you and where you got them ! A lot of fakes out there. Also have you checked out MSNL seeds , There sponsors. Full line of autos last time I looked . And they all guarantee delivery.
I need to get a calmag that’s 0-0-0 , I’m using 1-0-0 and it has mine pretty dark at lights out . That Perfect Sun Led Goliath V2 is the same as my 1000 watt hps and close to half the electricity.

Can you get TPS cal mag? It's a 0-0-0

Bit pricey and I can't get it, but thought I'd throw that out there

Edit- didn't see/know the BioBizz one

 

[Verbalist]

10/25 | Day 36 | Week 5

Helllowhellow, Start of the 5th week!
10/24 - 10/25 Critical had her first long night (timer set on 12/12 for couple of days)

DWC Critical were just as picky as I thought.. Rised EC to 1.6/800ppm, overnight she drank ~0.5L and there was a slight bump on EC. It kept hovering between 1.6-1.7 so there was like 50-75ppm increase.
Topped res and now its back to 1.6 - Going to keep 800ppm as a base EC for now and start gradually increasing when she starts to eat properly.
If Criticals does not start showing sex/pistils in next 4-6 days with 12/12 lights might just order a new seeds and buy two-seater bubbler. So fingers crossed!

Tent temp: 24C / night 19C
Humidity: 40%
VPD: 1.8

Blackberry Kush Automatic
She had a long night as well.. Vertical growth seems not being over yet. This is the main reason why Im not interested in to fug with 12/12 lights.. Yields from this plant will suffer if kept under 12/12.

Otherwise she looks great! Budlets starting to form and slowly stack up. Also those ”Blackberry shades” are bout to show up on the buds. Result should be purplish/deep blue or almost black buds
FEED:
- 0.45ml/l Bio Cal/Mag
- 1.5ml/l Micro
- 3ml/l Bloom
- Couple drops of GHE Pro bloom
- 1ml/l Bio TopMax
pH being adjusted to 6.5 before irrigation

Structure going to be sativa looking

Critical 2.0 XL Automatic (coco)
Meh. Gotta keep training her. Hopefully achieving the wanted structual look.
60x50cm closet is also getting a bit too small for her.
FEED:
- 0.75ml/l Bio Cal/Mag
- 1.2ml/l Micro
- 2.8ml/l Bloom
- 0.5ml/l Hydroguard
- 0.4g/1L Silica
pH being adjusted to 5.8 before irrigation

Idk why shes still asking for so much Ca & Mg even tho I ”buffered” the coco with 6pH water diluded with Cal/Mag & root booster..

Critical 2.0 XL Automatic (DWC)
First night had no noticeable difference. Whole lot new bracts pushing from nodes but no visible calyxes or pistils.
Hopefully thats just how she starts the pre-flower
If she would show the first pistils could start scropping stern hand to avoid this mad stretching.

Res temp stays steady 20C and roots are looking healthy. She drinks like 1-1.5L per day.
From pics you can see just slightly burnt leave tips, and some of them hook down and some upwards. Idk if thats an excess of something or some micro deficiency since it keeps appearing on newest/upper mid leaves.
Anyway shes fucking massive lol

After first 12h sleep:

 

[Roy Growin]

Looking pretty good V - agree the closet is looking a bit tight
Looking forward to seeing that baby covered in bud, she looks like she's ready to pop

 

[Verbalist]

Looking pretty good V - agree the closet is looking a bit tight
Looking forward to seeing that baby covered in bud, she looks like she's ready to pop

Thanks mate
Hopefully that autoflowering happens by ruderalis genes… if DWC Critical only appears to start flowering under 12/12 then will most likely the coco one as well.

And @Squiggle you asked what happened to my clones. Well was cba continuing their diary. I harvested them last week:

2x 1L Air pot clones yielded almost oz each and total from 3 clones 120g (~4oz) dry/before jarring. Might still lose like 5-10g from the weight.

 

[Verbalist]

Can you get TPS cal mag? It's a 0-0-0

Bit pricey and I can't get it, but thought I'd throw that out there

Edit- didn't see/know the BioBizz one

Yeah found it when used Bio’s nutes last round.
Would prob use it for DWC but since micro has 6% Ca and bloom 3% Mg and doing lucas so those two already provide right ratio of Ca & Mg.
I think adding extra Cal/Mag could at this point mess the nutrition balance again. Theres still some Ca def looking symptoms tho but it didn’t fix neither if I had 100 or 250ppm of Ca.

PS. Biobizz calmag is cheap!