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Flowering with issues

Grnthmb

New Member
Hello everyone, just a kwik question about one of my baby girls. I have two under 400 W high-pressure sodium and one looks good and one looks terrible, I've got a small srcog system I'm trying out ( for the first time if you couldn't tell LOL ). But I thought maybe I was scorching the plant with my life but I have about 3 feet between plant tops and bottom of the light so I'm just really not sure what's going on with it if anybody's got any ideas or comments all are welcome, thank you! Grnthmb (Will have pics asap trying to figure it out). I think I got the pic on here let me know if not. Thanks in advance!!



 
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Grnthmb

New Member
Re: Flowering with issues...

Thanks MRXC will def take into consideration cabinet temp runs around 76 - 80 F lights on and 70 lights off. Transplanted this am into bigger containers and better soil mix 3 parts verm, organic soil compost, and perlite. Mix has been doin wonderful with light nutes so hopefully this will help. Gonna let them rest today and recheck ph etc tomorrow. No water or nutes added yet. Want to make sure not overwatering or nute burn.
 

AKgramma

Well-Known Member
As your title says Flowering with Issues, I would narrow it down to nute burn. You also said you transplanted them, which was good strategy.

1) Give only plain water for a couple of weeks while they recover from transplanting.
2) Remove damaged leaves. They won't heal and will harbor disease or bugs.
3) Once the ladies are looking better, make sure you only give them nutes without Nitrogen, and then, no more often than 1 time a couple of weeks, diluted 1/2 to 1/4 of the directions on the bottle.
4) When you water, soak thoroughly and let drain. Don't water again until the pots feel light, the leaves look a little tired, or the soil feels dry when you stick your finger into the soil about an inch.
5) if, God forbid, you see spider mites on your flowering ladies use only a gentle home-made mixture of a Tablespoon of dish-washing liquid plus 1 teaspoon of cooking oil to a gallon of water. Spray liberally under and over the leaves just before lights-out, leave overnight, then rinse well under a cool-water spray in the morning. Repeat every other day till mites are gone. Remove any leaves badly damaged by the mites, or leaves that have a large colony of adults and eggs, with or without webs.

I've done this myself, and my Ladies LOVED the cool-water sprays. The trics shined like Xmas lights after their shower. You don't have to be too gentle with the spray. You want to wash off the dead bugs and dead leaf matter. I found that the commercial miticides were too hard on them once in flower for a few weeks. And yes, I sprayed the buds, too.
 

Grnthmb

New Member
Awesome info everyone thanks so much!! I transplanted them into each a 2 gallon pot with a three-part mix and added no nutrients for the past week and watered one time in the past week. I was thinking I might have some watering issues or a nuyeah def. but really didn't have any idea what. So I figured I'd start at the basics by transplanting them into a nice fresh soil keep them with fresh pH water and hope for the best. The plants are three weeks into veg under 400 W HPS with a pH around 6 to 7. That was with the old soil I checked with the new soil and it was around six and going to recheck in the morning for a better accurate reading and will repost Results.


Here is the other plant:
 

Grnthmb

New Member
Also removed small Scrog grid to be able to focus on what the issue is. Nutes are an orchid bloom booster 11-35-15 and during veg an orchid plus 20-14-13 both with essential micro elements. I also use a natural organic-based 5-1-1 fish fertilizer. All nute are given water-soluble and mixed at approximately 50% what's called for on the containers. Usually given about once a week directly to soil and foliage misted. All seemed well until this started happening approx 10-15 days into bloom.
 

AKgramma

Well-Known Member
Also removed small Scrog grid to be able to focus on what the issue is. Nutes are an orchid bloom booster 11-35-15 and during veg an orchid plus 20-14-13 both with essential micro elements. I also use a natural organic-based 5-1-1 fish fertilizer. All nute are given water-soluble and mixed at approximately 50% what's called for on the containers. Usually given about once a week directly to soil and foliage misted. All seemed well until this started happening approx 10-15 days into bloom.

Oh my.... your N (the first number) should be close to zero. These are not Orchids. You're better off with a tomato bloom formula. Nitrogen is for growing leaves and roots, not cannibus flowers or edible fruit.
 

AKgramma

Well-Known Member
I should have said "for the flowering phase". What you're using is fine for the veg stage, so they are not worthless. But when in flower, the chemistry changes in the plant and you need just certain elements. Unneeded elements at this stage will stall the maturation process, and confuse the hell out of your ladies. Look what happened to your leaves!
 

Grnthmb

New Member
Oh man the other plant is starting the same thing I really don't know what to do if anybody has any ideas please help I don't want to lose them and I think I'm on the verge of it.
 

Grnthmb

New Member
Here is both plants with lights out using the camera flash to get better actual color of the plants.
 

ShiggityFlip

Member of the Month: Jan 2016, Aug 2017 - Nug of the Month: June 2017 - Photo of the Month: Sept 2016

Grnthmb

New Member
The back wall is s conc. Block wall but I built up 3 inches off the floor and completely encased it except the back wall. Is this ok, or still same issues? I was hoping that would be up off the floor enuff. The cabinet temp runs +\- 76 to 78 F lights on and 65 to 70 F lights off. Let me know whatcha think and thank u for responding every bit helps.
 

AKgramma

Well-Known Member
Grnthmb, your temperatures are perfect. The basement seems to help keep your temps down. Concrete sucks heat up like a sponge. ;-)

editing post: You can use styrofoam sheets to insulate your pots from the floor. Concrete blocks tend to retain moisture, as well as suck up heat. Just one more way to insulate your Ladies and add some protection against stray electrical current. If you can get all your electrical connections well away from the damp parts of the enclosure (I hang mine from the top shelf) you can reduce the chances of shocks.
 

Grnthmb

New Member
10-4 All my elec is from the top as well, thanks so much for everything!! I did another flush with pure distilled water and have been using it only. I would like to say I'm noticing a lil difference and some new hairs but I hope it's not just optimism!! Thanks again!!
 

ShiggityFlip

Member of the Month: Jan 2016, Aug 2017 - Nug of the Month: June 2017 - Photo of the Month: Sept 2016
Awesome man. Like AK said a little styrofoam or a campers foam pad will really help. I would insulate the wall as well just where the pot is. The leaves will be fine. Concrete will suck heat even through wood. But foam stops the heat flow. In my grow I use pink builders insulation.
 
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