Living soil sitting idle in pot 2 weeks too hot for autoflower?

H1gherD1mensionz

Well-Known Member
So my fresh biobizz allmix has been sitting idle in the fabric pot for about 2 weeks while I waited for new seeds to arrive after a failed germination. There is a slight white fuzz at the bottom sides of the pot, but the soil looks fine. Will the microbes have made the soil too hot since they've been active? Is it better to play it safe and just use new soil at this point?
 
Your "fresh biobizz allmix", it isn't a soil/brand that I am familiar with, but from google they recommend to first germinate then transplant into bio-buzz allmix, it has enough nutes for the first 4 weeks of growth apparently. In general I feel letting a soil sit/settle/cook is a good thing. I would have thought a period of time sitting idle would help the microbes balance out any 'hotness' in the soil. The slight white fuzz is likely to be part of the healthy biology of the soil. It sounds like you're good to go!
 
Soil is fine. It’s the ingredients that make it hot.... not the microbes. I would scoop out a part in the center about the size of a 20 ounce plastic party cup and replace it with a very light seed starter mix. It’s a professionally made bagged soil so it should be precooked from biobizz. Autos are funny, they can be transplanted like most any other plant but if you disturb the plant or the roots doing so then it can stall out.
 
Highly unlikely bagged soil of any kind will be "too hot" as far as thermophillic microbe reaction unless you got a huge pile like 50 bags and its very compost rich soil.
It could be too hot with synthetic nutrients but thats going to be there until it gets used or washed away.

If you want to check stick a thermometer into the soil.
 
Seedlings should be grown in old depleted soil until hardened off. A very active micro herd can eat up seedlings roots no problem. Seen it happen.

A good starter mix is 50% peat with 40% EWC and 10% aeration (rice hulls etc).

Or just some old used soil you have laying around. Hardening off usually takes a few weeks with a small fan on the plants. This does a few good things for seedlings. Strengthens stems and helps with plant growth. I usually start them in solo cups with slits cut in the btm once I see roots coming out I transplant to final containers.

Seedlings dont need any or very much nutrients since they have coteleydons that supply enough energy for the plants to grow roots big enough to support the plant.
 
Thank you for the help guys, looks like I'll stick with the same soil then. And good news the root has popped from the seed! Time to plant.

If you want to check stick a thermometer into the soil.
Haha for the record I was referring to the microbes increasing the availability of the nutrients thus making it "hotter"
I would scoop out a part in the center about the size of a 20 ounce plastic party cup and replace it with a very light seed starter mix.
That will be my plan for the next one. This time I just put some of my soil from the previous grow in the middle.
A very active micro herd can eat up seedlings roots no problem. Seen it happen.
That makes me wonder if that is what happened to my failed seed because I did peek and notice a root pop out but then the next day it seemed to have vanished and there was a single predatory mite sniffing around the seed.
 
Mice like seedlings too... so if you have a seedling "disappear" that could be a thing too.

Microbes will be constantly breaking down soil organic matter. it should never be too "hot" for a plant but seedlings yes. Its not so much the nutrients but the microbes eat the delicate roots of a new seedling if the conditions are right for them. The new seedling has to start generating root exudate. That takes a few days as the seedling has cotyledons supplying most of its food for the first week.

I wont put seedlings into my regular soil until they are hardened off. I will grow them to hardened off in peat pellet in old soil. Once the roots move out of the peat pellet they are strong and developed enough to deal with microbes.
 
This is an older thread and the person you asked has not been around in about 2 months.

What do you mean by "pre soak"?
When I take out the organic living soil out the bag I bought and put it into my 5 gallon pot do I water the soil as EC & PH has been killing me plus over watering 😪 so I'm trying living soil but I don't know if it'd be too hot for my baby seedlings autos lol thank you for replying
 
and put it into my 5 gallon pot do I water the soil as EC & PH has been killing me plus over watering
If it is damp it should be OK and ready. If it is dry then yes, some water.

As for overwatering, have you read through the thread on How to Water a Potted Plant?

so I'm trying living soil but I don't know if it'd be too hot for my baby seedlings autos lol thank you for replying
A "Living Organic Soil" should be ready to go as is. It will not be too hot since all the organic material has already started to be broken down.

My understanding of a "Living Organic Soil" is that there is no need to worry about EC or pH. When the soil was blended and the raw organic material allowed to start decomposing the pH and EC and all those numbers that go along with a hydroponic style grow were taken care of.
 
When I take out the organic living soil out the bag I bought and put it into my 5 gallon pot do I water the soil as EC & PH has been killing me plus over watering 😪 so I'm trying living soil but I don't know if it'd be too hot for my baby seedlings autos lol thank you for replying
I was using coco coir before
If it is damp it should be OK and ready. If it is dry then yes, some water.

As for overwatering, have you read through the thread on How to Water a Potted Plant?


A "Living Organic Soil" should be ready to go as is. It will not be too hot since all the organic material has already started to be broken down.

My understanding of a "Living Organic Soil" is that there is no need to worry about EC or pH. When the soil was blended and the raw organic material allowed to start decomposing the pH and EC and all those numbers that go along with a hydroponic style grow were taken care of.
Yes circles about an inch from the stem once spouted then gradually increase distance for example I read 100-150Mls 1 week daily inch from the seedling stem? I've been trying coco for about 8 months I NEVER get past 1st week 😪 this is why I went organic as Dr organics said i don't need to de chlorinate or ph & is ideal for seedlings, I'm just panicking as I say I've failed every single time.
If it is damp it should be OK and ready. If it is dry then yes, some water.

As for overwatering, have you read through the thread on How to Water a Potted Plant?


A "Living Organic Soil" should be ready to go as is. It will not be too hot since all the organic material has already started to be broken down.

My understanding of a "Living Organic Soil" is that there is no need to worry about EC or pH. When the soil was blended and the raw organic material allowed to start decomposing the pH and EC and all those numbers that go along with a hydroponic style grow were taken care of.
Yea I read 1st week about 100-150 mils inch from stem to incourage root growth, I used to pre water my coco coir before planting as i was obssessed with ec run off as it was like 2.8 & boom seedlings die in a week 😪 or yellow leaves then die. I pray organic as Dr organics says no need to ph or de chlorinate, wow, so now I'm freaking out 🤣 but thank you again 👍 plus I paper towel germinated I've never just plopped the seed in after a 12-18 hour soak
 
I've never had much luck with autoflowers in LOS, most autoflowers are rather touchy and not quite ready for prime time.
My soil because I have worms, bugs etc always seems a bit too alive for autoflowers and they tend to get stunted.

A good LOS should be in at minimum a 15 gallon fabric pot preferably much larger.
Should have at least 30-35% aeration in form of pumice, rice hulls and precharged biochar.
A cover crop and a thick mulch layer.
It should never be allowed to dry out and remain moist at all times.
 
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