LukeHighWalker Chiquita Banana, Do-Si-Dos, Godfather OG HPA Grow 2023

LukeHighWalker

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone! I've finally gathered the courage to create my first GROW Journal. I'll be describing my system using pictures and comments. If you have any questions, feel free to ask! Essentially, this is my fifth project after a humorous start: it all began with a plastic box from Ikea and a 600l/h aquarium pump. After much trial and error, I've arrived at my current system, which I'll define below:

Strains: Chiquita Banana, Do-Si-Dos, and Godfather OG
Genetic Makeup: Hybrid Sativa/Indica
Pot/Bucket Size: 2x 600mm x 400mm x 320mm
Tent Size: 1000mm x 1000mm x 2000mm
Grow Space: 6m³
Number of Plants: 6
Environment: Indoor
Stage: Seedling
Medium: Jiffy tabs in net pots
Lights: 300 Watt Mars Hydro TSW 2000W
Nutrients: Aptus, Advanced Hydro of Holland, Atami, Plagron
Room/Tent Temperature: Controllable, between 16°C - 32°C
Relative Humidity: Controllable, between 35% - 75%
Media/Res PH: Controllable, kept @5.8
Pests: None
Watering: Cycle: 5s on / 600s off @ around 7.0 bar

I'll be addressing each element of my grow setup in separate posts; otherwise, this introduction might get a bit dull. I hope to connect with many of you out there and help some of you along the way or even learn more myself. Who knows? Now, I wish you all a lot of fun, and thank you for joining me on this journey this time. Cheers, community!

Edit: I'm still getting used to how to post pics with subtitles! :laugh:
 
The HPA system consists of:

- Connectors Diameter: 1/4" and 8mm
- Mesh filter for coarse impurities (Inlet suction line mesh filter and a second mesh filter on the suction side between the first filter and the membrane pump)
- Tubing with a maximum pressure of 10 bar, Diameter: 1/4", 3/8" (return), and 8mm (suction side of the pressure pump)
- 24v Max. 8.5 bar Rain Micro Systems Standard Membrane Pump
- 0.5mm misting nozzles (plug nozzles for 1/4" T-piece)
- Eurobox 600 x 400 x 320 mm with a plastic lid (root chamber)
 
The nutrient tank consists of the following elements:

- Food-grade Duropor container (with good insulation properties)
- Wooden board for tilting (tilting the tank is better for small fill volumes and drainage)
- Aquarium pump 1500l/h for solution circulation
- Wi-Fi water quality analysis device (temperature, EC, pH, ORP, humidity(?), TDS, ORP)
- Small refrigerator for water cooling (connected by 1/4" tubing and a 600l/h aquarium pump)
- Small 12v peristaltic pump for diluted acid dosing, including plastic tubing and a bottle for pH regulation
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The reverse osmosis system for pure water consists of:

- Complete RO system for 125 GPD
- 1x 10l bucket for RO water
- 1x 12l plastic bucket as a feed reservoir
- 1/4" tubing
- Rain Micro Systems 24v Membrane Pump (small, max. 8.5 bar)

With this setup I'm able to gain 10 liters of RO water with just 12 liters of tap water - doing my part for environment protection!
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The various pumps are controlled in two different ways: either through the central automation app or via an independent timer for 12V or 24V, specifically for the irrigation pumps. The irrigation pump requires independent control because it operates in one-second intervals, and server automation through Tuya does not allow timers of less than 1 minute. This ensures that the timing remains unaffected by communication losses to the server.

The pumps for the reverse osmosis system, circulation, cooling circuit, and so on, are controlled through the central Tuya app since any potential communication loss does not impact the well-being of the plants.
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Automation is primarily carried out using the Tuya Smart Home app. This app can integrate all the sockets and sensors that communicate via the Zigbee protocol. In my application, every operation is controlled through the Tuya app, except for the irrigation pump.

The irrigation pump is isolatedly controlled using a digital on/off timer module. Because the pump control operates on a one-second cycle, which the Tuya app doesn't allow (the smallest interval for cycles is in minutes), the control is managed by the module. Additionally, the system cannot afford any communication interruptions with the app server.
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This project is conducted within a 1000x1000x2000 mm tent. The tent has multiple openings for hoses and cable passage and features a reflective inner layer.

Ventilation is achieved through a continuous 3-speed cooling fan. Exhaust is managed through an activated carbon filter connected to a 125 mm duct fan with a capacity of 310 m³/h.

Humidity control is currently accomplished through an evaporation humidifier and a dehumidifier. The logic for turning these devices on and off is regulated based on the humidity level inside the tent via the Tuya App.

Inside the tent, there is currently a multifunction sensor that monitors CO2, temperature, humidity, and other values online. This allows for control through the Tuya App.
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The environmental parameters such as temperature, humidity, and pH are regulated through the Tuya App and the installed sensors. During the cold seasons, an electric space heater is used to maintain temperatures around 22°C - 27°C. For the warm seasons, an air conditioner is installed in the room.

To control the pH of the nutrient solution, a multifunctional water quality measuring device is used. The values of temperature and pH can be read from the app and are used to control smart outlets. This enables the activation of a simple peristaltic pump if the pH exceeds a certain threshold. It's important to note that the acid is diluted in the stock bottle; otherwise, turning on the pump could potentially result in pH levels dropping too low.
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I've been running my grow operation using seeds, and while I've read about the benefits of cloning, I haven't tried it myself. The main issue for me is space; there's simply no room in my setup for a second tent to house a mother plant.

So, I resort to ordering seeds online and storing them right in the fridge by the door. Those little guys seem to enjoy the cool temperature, and it's quite convenient because I can still snag good deals even when I'm knee-deep in another project.
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Now, onto the juicy stuff - how do I get those seeds to sprout? Well, I've experimented with various methods, but I eventually stumbled upon the magic of Jiffy tabs. Here's the lowdown: I let those tabs swell up in mildly acidic water (pH of around 6.0). Then, I nestle the water-soaked tab into a net pot, dig a cozy 2 cm hole into the moist medium, and tuck in the cannabis seed. Afterward, I cover up the hole with the damp mix, and this carefully prepared tab, along with the net pot, goes to a warm spot.
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Typically, those little pale sprouts make their grand entrance in just 3-4 days. If they decide to take their time, I sneak a peek inside the Jiffy tab. The weaker phenotypes usually decide to join the party a fashionably late 1-2 days afterward. This fun fact helps me assign the perfect spots in my tent for each of these plant personalities. The weaker ones get cozy in the middle, where they can strive for those prime sunbathing positions later on.
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Thank you very much @Roy Growin ! In my first project, I germinated the seeds in rock wool, using 1-liter net pots. Unfortunately, I faced significant issues with overwatering, and my ladies didn't handle it well. The solution with the Jiffy tabs provides me with enough buffer until the small plants grow into young ones, and their roots find their way out of the peat to access the nutrient spray.
 
Week #2 Vegetation

I set the seeds to germinate about a week ago. By now, all the seedlings are looking healthy, and as soon as the first serrated leaves start to form, I'll transfer the net pots to the root chamber.
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Here's the recipe for the nutrient solution I'm using for the seedlings:

- 20 liters of RO water
- 5 liters of tap water
- 6ml GROW - Advanced Hydroponics of Holland (AHH)
- 6ml BLOOM AHH
- 6ml MICRO AHH
- 6ml Aptus Ca/Mg Booster
- 3.0 ml Plagron GROW
- 1.5ml Aptus Regulator
- 3.0 ml Aptus Startbooster
- 1/3 teaspoon of sugarcane molasses

In this composition, the nutrient solution reaches an EC of 0.5 mS. I adjust the pH to 5.5 using nitric acid at the end.
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The tap water in my municipality isn't too hard, with an EC of 0.35 mS and a pH of 7.55.
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For those unfamiliar with the individual nutrients, I'd like to explain that it's a blend of mineral and organic fertilizers. I've read a lot about the use of organic fertilizers in hydro/aeroponic setups, and there are many conflicting opinions. Some believe that organic fertilizers don't have much impact in hydroponics because there's no room for microorganisms. However, my experience has been quite positive. While I haven't gathered scientific data, I've achieved excellent results, especially during the flowering phase, by incorporating organic additives.

Some of you might shake your heads at the number of elements in the nutrient mix for seedlings during this phase. I've found that the little ones appreciate a bit of everything, but it's crucial to keep the concentrations low.

Here are the Kids by name:
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Chiquita banana #1

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Chiquita banana #2

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Do-Si-Dos #1 (this one seems to be the weakest of all)

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Do-Si-Dos #2

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Godfather OG #1

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Godfather OG #2

Did anyone notice that I sealed the openings of the net pots with foam and duct tape? Well, there's a good reason for that. The net pots are transparent, and the root chamber should be pitch black. Additionally, I don't want the nutrient mist to escape through the side openings of the pots and spread inside the tent.
 
Week #3 Vegetation:

The little ladies are doing well so far. I've been closely monitoring the root development of all of them, and it turns out my initial assumption was wrong. DSD #1 isn't the weakest of the bunch; it's actually GFOG#2. She's barely growing, and her roots haven't penetrated the Jiffy Tab yet. I suspect the substrate might be a bit too dense for her. After all, she's developed two pairs of serrated leaves, and her color doesn't look too concerning. I've tried gently loosening the substrate by hand; let's see how she progresses next week.
The #1's
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A glance @ the root chamber
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And the #2's
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And their root chamber
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In terms of growth, the other ladies seem quite robust, until... CB#1.

With CB#1, I noticed these white spots on the leaves.
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Initially, I thought it was due to the nutrient solution, so I changed it, suspecting a calcium deficiency. This suspicion arose because when I initially started up the system, I had two issues with my super pH control. The pH of the solution briefly reached around 3.0 for about 4 hours while I was at work. This happened because the programmed logic didn't stop the acid pump, causing all the diluted acid to be pumped into the nutrient tank. However, to my dismay, it wasn't a nutrient deficiency but pests!
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I acted swiftly: I wiped the leaves with a 2% H2O2 solution, and I'm currently alternating between disinfecting the inside of the tent with H2O2 and 70% isopropyl alcohol every day. I've done this in the past due to high temperatures, and it saved the situation. I hope it works again here. The good news is that, so far, the pests haven't spread to the other plants. I'll keep you updated. Cheers!

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