Medical Grow

[Doc Bud]

hey Doc could you explain gypsum to me a little? how much to use and all the info i need to know. how often do i apply it or how long does it last. i need a way to add
Cal.

Sure bro.

It's dirt cheap. 10 bucks for a lifetime supply for you AND your neighbor. It can be used for many things....it helps hard compact soils drain....so it kind of subs for perlite.

It won't alter soil pH.

It's a rich, long acting form of calcium for plants.

Mix it into the medium, about 3 tbsp per gallon of soil. However, please be advised that too much calcium will inhibit magnesium.

dolomite might be a safer alternative.

 

[IrishBoy]

Sure bro.

It's dirt cheap. 10 bucks for a lifetime supply for you AND your neighbor. It can be used for many things....it helps hard compact soils drain....so it kind of subs for perlite.

It won't alter soil pH.

It's a rich, long acting form of calcium for plants.

Mix it into the medium, about 3 tbsp per gallon of soil. However, please be advised that too much calcium will inhibit magnesium.

dolomite might be a safer alternative.

i dont want to use DL because my mediums PH should be in the right rang, i dont want to raise it up too high.

but like you said i dont want to have too much cal, but i am going with a 50/50 of soil and coco so the extra cal should help.

maybe ill just rely on the Mater magic with the DM red? night be a safer bet for me? i am going with 5gal pots so that will be 15tbsp, thats not too high?

 

[Doc Bud]

i dont want to use DL because my mediums PH should be in the right rang, i dont want to raise it up too high.

but like you said i dont want to have too much cal, but i am going with a 50/50 of soil and coco so the extra cal should help.

maybe ill just rely on the Mater magic with the DM red? night be a safer bet for me? i am going with 5gal pots so that will be 15tbsp, thats not too high?

I don't know about the coco. I don't understand that stuff.

But it's hard to go wrong with the CRF's. I'll always grow in organic soil of some sort. The smell from this grow and the resin production is the best I've ever had. Adding a CRF to that is pretty close to the Holy Grail as far as "just add water" grows. At least that's how I'm interpreting it, based on the Blackberry.

Hempy style yields better, but the smell isn't near as complex and the resin not quite as thick as in the soil.

 

[Grower Z]

I haven't been able to find much on guidelines for Gypsum use, but here it is.

Galuku Cocopeat

To improve the wettability and water holding ability for indoor and outdoor potting mixes add between 20% and 50% Cocopeat (Galuku Coir) by volume to the mix. Thoroughly mix the Cocopeat (Galuku Coir) in and add about 20 grams of Gypsum to every 100 litres of Cocopeat (Galuku Coir) used. Do not lime as Cocopeat (Galuku Coir) is not acidic. Feed the mix with liquid feed or slow release fertiliser.

and a paper:

Effects of Gypsum Addition on Solubility of Nutrients in Soil Amended With Peat (.pdf)

 

[MountainHigh]

i dont want to use DL because my mediums PH should be in the right rang, i dont want to raise it up too high.

but like you said i dont want to have too much cal, but i am going with a 50/50 of soil and coco so the extra cal should help.

maybe ill just rely on the Mater magic with the DM red? night be a safer bet for me? i am going with 5gal pots so that will be 15tbsp, thats not too high?

Hope you don't mind me offering what I am doing and some of the reasoning behind it. I decided to try growing pot like a tomato...that's why I thought Mater Magic would be the ideal source for most of my organic macro nutes...it offers significant Nitrogen (8), Phosphates (5), and Potassium (5), but also treats Calcium as a significant macro at (4.5) and additional sulfur in macro range at (1). I add a teaspoon or so of Epsom Salt to my soil mix to cover the balance needed with the calcium from many sources as I add steamed bone meal too (additional Phosphates if I remember correctly)...needs to be a proper ratio of both in the soil for one of the transports in the root cells to work right, I think..., the teaspoon is an educated guess.

I added OC+ to cover macro's, with the help of some Azomite, which is really slow release and if you don't "cook"/compose your soil long enough, won't be of tremendous benefit til later in bloom, so the OC+ is insurance.

The proper size of dolomite lime is the key..wait, I don't wanna get this wrong so I suggest this article, it explains the how and why so much better than I could. I use a large grain (pelletized) dolomite so it is never much of a worry for me anyway.

I know my soil adds some bene's but, I decided to add more to get a good colony going fast. Also added some dry molasses and humic acid...not 100% on the reason for humic acid, but seen it in a few experienced growers arsenal's.

Those are my why's and I kinda get it after I read that article a few times...brain fried the first time I think.

Hope you didn't mind me sharing brother. Your girls are beautiful and I know you are happy with the organics mixed with the OC+.

 

[Doc Bud]

Hope you don't mind me offering what I am doing and some of the reasoning behind it. I decided to try growing pot like a tomato...that's why I thought Mater Magic would be the ideal source for most of my organic macro nutes...it offers significant Nitrogen (8), Phosphates (5), and Potassium (5), but also treats Calcium as a significant macro at (4.5) and additional sulfur in macro range at (1). I add a teaspoon or so of Epsom Salt to my soil mix to cover the balance needed with the calcium from many sources as I add steamed bone meal too (additional Phosphates if I remember correctly)...needs to be a proper ratio of both in the soil for one of the transports in the root cells to work right, I think..., the teaspoon is an educated guess.

I added OC+ to cover macro's, with the help of some Azomite, which is really slow release and if you don't "cook"/compose your soil long enough, won't be of tremendous benefit til later in bloom, so the OC+ is insurance.

The proper size of dolomite lime is the key..wait, I don't wanna get this wrong so I suggest this article, it explains the how and why so much better than I could. I use a large grain (pelletized) dolomite so it is never much of a worry for me anyway.

I know my soil adds some bene's but, I decided to add more to get a good colony going fast. Also added some dry molasses and humic acid...not 100% on the reason for humic acid, but seen it in a few experienced growers arsenal's.

Those are my why's and I kinda get it after I read that article a few times...brain fried the first time I think.

Hope you didn't mind me sharing brother. Your girls are beautiful and I know you are happy with the organics mixed with the OC+.

Thanks for sharing! We're all pretty much on the same path here.....giving the plants a well rounded, nutrient rich root zone that translates into tasty, frosty buds.

I totally appreciate you sharing your mix!

 

[Skid Mark]

Well, were are your trichs? BTW, Blue Dream is 80% Sativa and 20% Indica. For folks that can read, this means BD is Sativa dominant. HA!

Strain: Blue Dream
Lineage: Blueberry X Haze
Genetics: 80% Sativa / 20% Indica
THC Level: 15% – 20%

 

[Skid Mark]

hey everyone! thanks for the kind words!

Tonite we should have everything finished. It's really hot here right now....102 during the day....

Yesterday, the high temps were 82 degrees during the day, and 66 at night, with no lights on. So, tonite we'll run all 3 lights for 12 hours and see what happens to the temps. I'm hoping to NOT have AC....but we've got one if needed.

As far as Co2 goes, I've got a CAP 4 burner generator that runs on propane.

I'm still trying to decide exactly what I'm going to grow first.....hoping I can run a few clones in order to catch up.

As far as seeds go, I'm looking at:

1.)Blue Dream
2.)Flo
3.)Blue Cheese
4.)Violator Kush
5.)Bubba Kush
6.)Skunk/Sour diesel

The idea is to have 20 plants SOG-style under each light, with 50 under the T5 until sex can be determined.

I'll take the best female and breed it to the best male to perpetuate the seed bank. Then, I'll do the same with some other genetics till I have a good little assortment of seeds.

There are a couple of crosses I really, really want to experiment with:

blueberryxflo (floberry?)
JTRxFlo (I'll call it flipper)

Flo is strange stuff.....you can't really tell you're high unless you really think about it. You just know that nothing hurts, you're happy, and you feel 20 pounds lighter with all kinds of energy. It's quite unique.

Type Flo: 60/40 Sativa-Dominant Hybrid [Combination of Highland Thai, Purple Thai, and Afghani Indica]

Great medical strain that Flo!

Another one of my favorites is "The Purps.">

Purps:
Sativa 60 / Indica 40
Origins - Mendo Purps clone x Purps
Flowering - 56-63 days
Harvest - Late October


I have the original Purps strain grown for many years in the "Mendo" region by a medical grower of 30+ years. I crossed his Purps strain 5 years ago with a pure male Purps. Still have many seed's and have replicated this cross many times over since to acclimate to my region. Excellent medical strain!

BTW, Doc Bud, what strain is that seeded Lady you have in the woods? Looking good! For mature seed's, make sure you let her go at least 3 weeks past harvest marker. This will insure mature seeds that will greminate with little effort. As usual, I am sure you have done your home work on this issue too.

 

[Skid Mark]

The word dank in stoner talk: Urban Dictionary: dank

The word dank in human talk: Dank | Define Dank at Dictionary.com

Now if I were a stoner (Doc Bud) I would use the Stoner version of "Dank" to describe your grow. But I like to think of myself as a professional Marijuana Hortculturist like our fello grower Ed R. YouTube - Ed Rosenthal - Cannabis Horticulturist, Marijuana Author, and Advocate. So I will use professional words to describe your grow like "impressive" "excellent" "super."

Keep up the great grow! You are on the right track.....

Hear that folks "most of the THC is on the leafs." Don't trim away all that great medicine.

 

[Doc Bud]

skidmark!

Thanks for dropping by! People here don't know who you are...don't know that you've been growing this stuff for 30+ years, that you know the "legends" personally, etc. Thanks for all your help!

also, I can't agree more....the THC is in the leaves!

However, because the general public don't/won't know that, you've got to grow it "dank" if you want folks other than yourself to use it.

Hopefully, our little collective will educate folks!

BTW, that seed plant is a Blue Dream. Male and female in the same pot. Hard to miss.

 

[Planter]

great video. that hash is def the best ive had!! thanks for postin Skid Mark

 

[cburns135]

ok guys sorry to but in here bu need advice
got 6x5 and want to do hempy bucket in 5 gal with hydgroton
got 6.5 head room
considering hight to light and cement floor
how log should i veg to get the biggest plants that will fit in the room?
thinking 6.................9.................12 plants?
thinking 6 week veg 4 week veg 2 week veg?
trying to get the most out of the fewest plants

 

[Doc Bud]

ok guys sorry to but in here bu need advice
got 6x5 and want to do hempy bucket in 5 gal with hydgroton
got 6.5 head room
considering hight to light and cement floor
how log should i veg to get the biggest plants that will fit in the room?
thinking 6.................9.................12 plants?
thinking 6 week veg 4 week veg 2 week veg?
trying to get the most out of the fewest plants

I'll help you out with one post here, but this would be a great question for the hempy thread. This is an organic soil grow.

1.)Don't use hydroton in the hempy bucket. Use perlite instead.

2.)5 gallons is too big. 2-3 gallons is more than adequate. You don't want to waste all that time making the roots travel to the bottom.

3.)What strain are you growing? Some are taller than others.....your headroom issue.

4.)Veg time: It depends. See above.

5.)What kind of ligting?

Generally speaking, vegging for 8 weeks will produce a good yield indoors. Too much bigger and the lights can be challenged, depending on your set up. I'd top them when they have 5 nodes, just above the 2nd node......4 main colas that open up the inside of the plant.

I saw a grow like this recently....very impressive. Much more leaf material exposed to the lights, fat buds....very nice!

 

[hydronewbie]

Doc: I bought a 2 cubic yard bag of perlite for $12. That will fill a lot of 2 gallon buckets.
I'm using Osmocote based on your recommendation. That was cheap too. Can't wait for more photos.
Cheers,

 

[cburns135]

docbud thanks im gonna go look for the hempy thread

 

[Barry Manilow]

docbud thanks im gonna go look for the hempy thread

Here it is.

A Guide to Hempy (Just put a hole in a bucket)

 

[Skid Mark]

Doc Bud: As we have discussed in detail the method below. I think it's time we share one of our grow secret's.

Dankness ripening phase from the Mayan God "Gukumatz:"

A great way to enhance your Medical grow is the “Dankness Ripening Phase.” This is a scientifically proven method of promoting 10 times the amount of THC production with your Medical Marijuana grows. The method used throughout the World since the time of the Mayan race was developed by Gukumatz. Since “Gukumatz” will return to Earth “at an undisclosed time.” It is important to follow his “Dankness Ripening Phase.” This will ensure you will be one of the few who will be granted permission (by Gukumatz) to continue to grow his Godly method of “enhanced mega powered Medical Marijuana of the highest dankness.” Please follow this patented method below for all future grows. Or all your future grows will be crap!

Indoor, outdoor, indoor Dankness Ripening Phase as prescribed by the Mayan God Gukmatz.

1. Start plants indoors, grow for 4 weeks.
2. Once you start the flower cycle (indoor) place plants outdoor for 4 weeks.
3. Bring plant back indoor and finish plant.

If you are growing strains that take less or more time to flower, adjust the time you will need for each phase. Method is not dependent on how plants are cultivated i.e. clones or seed.

__________________________________________________________________________

Gukumatz was a culture hero who taught the Toltec’s, and later the Maya, the arts of civilization, including codes of law, agriculture, fishing and medicine. He came from an ocean, and eventually returned to it. According to Mayan legend, Gukumatz will return to the Earth during the End Times. He also represents the forces of good and evil, similar to the ying-yang paradigm of Asian religions.
Gukumatz was a god of the four elements of fire, earth, air and water, and each element was associated with a divine animal or plant:
Air -- Vulture
Earth -- Maize
Fire -- Lizard
Water – Fish
__________________________________________________________________________

Below you will find the chemical breakdown of Marijuana.

Marijuana
• Cannabinoids (THC, CBD, CBN...)
•
• The Active Ingredients Of Cannabis
• Below are some of the naturally occurring cannabinoids found in cannabis products like marijuana, hashish, and hashish oil. In addition to natural cannabinoids, there are many synthetic cannabinoids which are not covered in this article. Synthetic cannabinoids are not found in marijuana, hashish, or hashish oil unless they have been intentionally added.
• THC (Tetrahydrocannabinol) gets a user high; a larger THC content will produce a stronger high. Without THC you don't get high.
• CBD (Cannabidiol) increases some of the effects of THC and decreases other effects of THC. High levels of THC and low levels of CBD contribute to a strong, clear headed, more energetic high.
• Cannabis that has a high level of both THC and CBD will produce a strong head-stone that feels almost dreamlike. Cannabis that has low levels of THC and high levels of CBD produces more of a stoned feeling. The mind feels dull and the body feels tired.
• CBN (Cannabinol) is produced as THC ages and breaks down; this process is known as oxidization. High levels of CBN tend to make the user feel messed up rather than high.
• CBN levels can be kept to a minimum by storing cannabis products in a dark, cool, airtight environment. Marijuana should be dry prior to storage, and may have to be dried again after being stored somewhere that is humid.
• THCV (Tetrahydrocannabivarin) is found primarily in strains of African and Asian cannabis. THCV increases the speed and intensity of THC effects, but also causes the high to end sooner. Weed that smells strong (prior to smoking) might indicate a high level of THCV.
• CBC (Cannabichromene) is probably not psychoactive in pure form but is thought to interact with THC to enhance the high.
• CBL (Cannabicyclol) is a derivative product like CBN. Light converts CBC to CBL.
• If you are a grower, you can experiment with different strains of cannabis to produce the various qualities you seek. A medical user looking for something with sleep inducing properties might want to produce a crop that has high levels of CBD.
• Another user looking for a more energetic high will want to grow a strain that has high levels of THC and low levels of CBD. In general, Cannabis sativa has lower levels of CBD and higher levels of THC. Cannabis indicia have higher amounts of CBD and lower amounts of THC than sativa. See marijuana strains.

Enjoy!

 

[Grower Z]

Docbud, Setting Sun, Irish, et. al.

Have you played around with plain ol fertilizer spikes yet? This takes away the question of how to mix the CRF and they last for a shorter time than OC+.

I only have used them with houseplants so far.

The Jobes houseplant is 13-4-5. They also have a 4-4-4 organic all purpose and a few others.

a 50 pack of the Jobes organic 4-4-4 is $6.19 on amazon.com...looks like it might be less at Ace Hardware and Sears if in stock.

here is another more expensive product:

Organic Fertilizers

Nutrients = Nitrogen 4%, Phosphorus 4%, Potassium 4%, Sulfur 2%, Calcium 8%, Humic acid 1%. Derived from all natural materials: Fish meal, Crab meal, Shrimp meal, Rock phosphate, Potassium sulfate, Potato meal, Leonardite, Zeolite, Kelp, and mychorrhiza.

These spikes should last 6 - 8 weeks on a tomato crop and additional spikes should be added at that time. The actual life of each spike will vary with size of plant, fruit load, time of year, average temperature, etc.

Manufactured in accordance with USDA Organic Program Guidelines, 205.105 and 205.601 section "J" (Et SEQ). All of the ingredients are OMRI approved, however, the finished spike has NOT BEEN OMRI approved.​

 

[Setting Sun]

I haven't used the fertilizer spikes, but did you know that OC+ also comes in that form?


https://osmocoteisbest.com/_docs/labels/canadianmicromax/98415.pdf

 

[IrishBoy]

Docbud, Setting Sun, Irish, et. al.

Have you played around with plain ol fertilizer spikes yet? This takes away the question of how to mix the CRF and they last for a shorter time than OC+.

I only have used them with houseplants so far.

The Jobes houseplant is 13-4-5. They also have a 4-4-4 organic all purpose and a few others.

a 50 pack of the Jobes organic 4-4-4 is $6.19 on amazon.com...looks like it might be less at Ace Hardware and Sears if in stock.

here is another more expensive product:

Organic Fertilizers

Nutrients = Nitrogen 4%, Phosphorus 4%, Potassium 4%, Sulfur 2%, Calcium 8%, Humic acid 1%. Derived from all natural materials: Fish meal, Crab meal, Shrimp meal, Rock phosphate, Potassium sulfate, Potato meal, Leonardite, Zeolite, Kelp, and mychorrhiza.

These spikes should last 6 - 8 weeks on a tomato crop and additional spikes should be added at that time. The actual life of each spike will vary with size of plant, fruit load, time of year, average temperature, etc.

Manufactured in accordance with USDA Organic Program Guidelines, 205.105 and 205.601 section "J" (Et SEQ). All of the ingredients are OMRI approved, however, the finished spike has NOT BEEN OMRI approved.​

ive looked into the Jobes ones, but i did like the fact you have to add them every few weeks, and ive read a few things for MJ plants and they didnt seem to be to happy with the results, but it could have just been the grower lacking skills and the spikes took the blame? i like the idea that you can take them out for flushing, ive looked at the OC+ ones but they are lacking some micro nutes.

my question is why cant you just fill some OC+ or DM in a pvc pipe and drill all kinds of little holes and stick it by the roots?