Quest for 1G/W: 1K HPS Liquid Cooled on a 6' Mover in a 4x8 Tent
- Thread starter WheeloFortune
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #402
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
@ Kamikaze, sounds good bro. Later if you want to upload and post some pics, pm me and i'll help you figure out how, and how to start a thread so you can update us whenever you want to.
thanks soniq. your opinion is much appreciated. (i do love that chart too)
i'm not sure either fit very well according to this guide. . . i read the other guide when i was trying to figure it out. maybe if i give more details, because neither of them fit perfectly.
PHOSPHORUS:
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue colour to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green colour with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
the size of my plants seem fine to me, biggest i've ever grown. slow growth is not a problem, but the stems do seem slightly weak, like they have a low turgidity. The edges of the leaves are turning a light brown (tan) and you are right, not yellow yellow, and it does work its way inwards causing the leaves to curl, but they dont curl up, they curl down and roll in on themselves. I am not showing any blue, purple, or dark hues in the fans or the flowers, infact almost the exact opposite, overall the fans are slightly pale green with some weak interveinal chlorosis.
So although some pieces fit, i dont feel like this matches my symptoms very closely.
POTASSIUM
Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red colour and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of colour (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.
i don't know how leaves show retarded growth, but i don't feel they are, but they definitely have scorched tips and edges. also the branches do seem slightly weak. the edges of the leaves curl and die. the older leaves do show a reddish brown mottle, but there is also thrip damage. your right that it's not very vein-y for the part that have the most damage, but the ones showing less are more interveinal, looking kinda like a mg deficiency leading up to the burn you see on that leaf.
sorry to post so much here, but i want to look at everything. Here is from Mr. HIGHway:
Phosphorous
Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration, and vegetative growth.
Phosporous deficiencies are distinct. Purple stems, leaf stems, leaf veins and stunted growth are a sure sign of a Phosphorous deficiency. Leaves will also tend to be smaller and dark green, and may or may not include necrotic patches. Bud size will be smaller and underdeveloped, as will the root mass.
Potassium
Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in it?s life stage will keep your seedlings from falling over.
Potassium deficiencies are identified by necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves. Necrotic patches can be seen on the leaves as well. Leaves will eventually turn yellow, brown and die off. Most of the plants that show signs of a Potassium deficiency are going to be the tallest and best looking plants you have.
from this, it ssems more like potassium to me. especially the bold part.
.............................................................................................
ANYWAYS
.............................................................................................
whatever the problem is, the solution seems to be the same when playing it safe:
1)Flush (with something to battle any bad bacteria i might have)
2)Feed a nice fresh balanced nute reg.
hopefully that will be enough to carry me through the second half of flower (which officially starts today)
I added 30ml/gal of 3% H2O2 to this latest flush, as per how to use h2o2 guide which was actually not written for a flush, but just to add it to your res.
I will add about 20 ml/gal to this res as a follow up treatment.
thanks bro. . . they are getting bigger everyday.
exactly half-way to day my friend. here's where the buds should start to kick ass.
@ Kamikaze, sounds good bro. Later if you want to upload and post some pics, pm me and i'll help you figure out how, and how to start a thread so you can update us whenever you want to.
Could be potassium but there's more veins present in this problem and the necrosis is more yellow brown or green brown. Yours seems to be more brown-brown
Could be a phosphorous deficiency. Smaller sweet spot - so more sensitive to being out of range?
Here's the nutrient absorption range chart I like the most
thanks soniq. your opinion is much appreciated. (i do love that chart too)
i'm not sure either fit very well according to this guide. . . i read the other guide when i was trying to figure it out. maybe if i give more details, because neither of them fit perfectly.
PHOSPHORUS:
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue colour to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green colour with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
the size of my plants seem fine to me, biggest i've ever grown. slow growth is not a problem, but the stems do seem slightly weak, like they have a low turgidity. The edges of the leaves are turning a light brown (tan) and you are right, not yellow yellow, and it does work its way inwards causing the leaves to curl, but they dont curl up, they curl down and roll in on themselves. I am not showing any blue, purple, or dark hues in the fans or the flowers, infact almost the exact opposite, overall the fans are slightly pale green with some weak interveinal chlorosis.
So although some pieces fit, i dont feel like this matches my symptoms very closely.
POTASSIUM
Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red colour and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of colour (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.
i don't know how leaves show retarded growth, but i don't feel they are, but they definitely have scorched tips and edges. also the branches do seem slightly weak. the edges of the leaves curl and die. the older leaves do show a reddish brown mottle, but there is also thrip damage. your right that it's not very vein-y for the part that have the most damage, but the ones showing less are more interveinal, looking kinda like a mg deficiency leading up to the burn you see on that leaf.
sorry to post so much here, but i want to look at everything. Here is from Mr. HIGHway:
Phosphorous
Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration, and vegetative growth.
Phosporous deficiencies are distinct. Purple stems, leaf stems, leaf veins and stunted growth are a sure sign of a Phosphorous deficiency. Leaves will also tend to be smaller and dark green, and may or may not include necrotic patches. Bud size will be smaller and underdeveloped, as will the root mass.
Potassium
Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in it?s life stage will keep your seedlings from falling over.
Potassium deficiencies are identified by necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves. Necrotic patches can be seen on the leaves as well. Leaves will eventually turn yellow, brown and die off. Most of the plants that show signs of a Potassium deficiency are going to be the tallest and best looking plants you have.
from this, it ssems more like potassium to me. especially the bold part.
.............................................................................................
ANYWAYS
.............................................................................................
whatever the problem is, the solution seems to be the same when playing it safe:
1)Flush (with something to battle any bad bacteria i might have)
2)Feed a nice fresh balanced nute reg.
hopefully that will be enough to carry me through the second half of flower (which officially starts today)
I added 30ml/gal of 3% H2O2 to this latest flush, as per how to use h2o2 guide which was actually not written for a flush, but just to add it to your res.
I will add about 20 ml/gal to this res as a follow up treatment.
You're doing the STG proud Wheel.
Not bad on the buds either,
Bout half-way, nice bro!!!
McLuvin it!
Sf.
thanks bro. . . they are getting bigger everyday.
exactly half-way to day my friend. here's where the buds should start to kick ass.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
Hey, I know you already got the Stern Look for tossing your plant material in the trash, lol, but here's a thought for small amounts: The leaves AND the roots are great in a salad. Well... Maybe not great (but they taste a lot better than kale that was picked before it went through a frost or two), but still palatable - and healthy.
Yeah. I'm spaced.
Hey, I know you already got the Stern Look for tossing your plant material in the trash, lol, but here's a thought for small amounts: The leaves AND the roots are great in a salad. Well... Maybe not great (but they taste a lot better than kale that was picked before it went through a frost or two), but still palatable - and healthy.
Yeah. I'm spaced.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
WOW too much high tech stuff here. Kind of sort of. Sorry I have came repects, but didn't know ya was here. Hydro is well not my trip. But I know I have acouple plants that the edges crispy creatured. Still got my bud from it. H2O2 is peroxide rite? Walmarts 3% 1.00$ I forget what the % is from the hydro store but I'd bet you can look up the label. The one at the hydro store I think is like 9%. Don't quote me but look it up. Plants looking good dude. I was looking into dutch leach tray with a rockwool slab. I see people get 4 plants on a slab. I guess the secert is finding some low stance indo's. I wonder how well that bushmaster's works. I'm waitng on some to try now on any plants I got to start flowering. See if it kill's the 'strecth'. Gettem green dude. +++ if I can
WOW too much high tech stuff here. Kind of sort of. Sorry I have came repects, but didn't know ya was here. Hydro is well not my trip. But I know I have acouple plants that the edges crispy creatured. Still got my bud from it. H2O2 is peroxide rite? Walmarts 3% 1.00$ I forget what the % is from the hydro store but I'd bet you can look up the label. The one at the hydro store I think is like 9%. Don't quote me but look it up. Plants looking good dude. I was looking into dutch leach tray with a rockwool slab. I see people get 4 plants on a slab. I guess the secert is finding some low stance indo's. I wonder how well that bushmaster's works. I'm waitng on some to try now on any plants I got to start flowering. See if it kill's the 'strecth'. Gettem green dude. +++ if I can
- Thread starter
- #405
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
lol, silly rabbit. . .
my mom has some guinea pig babies, i wonder if they'd eat em? if they did i could have a couple.
lol, silly rabbit. . .
my mom has some guinea pig babies, i wonder if they'd eat em? if they did i could have a couple.
- Thread starter
- #406
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
Thanks for checking in on me NorCal. Can't be everywhere.
Hydro, apparently, is not my forte either. lmao. Always F'n something up, but in the end I get my bud too, and can at least say it always smokes better than anything you can buy.
Just trying to figure out the cause of the burn. knowledge as they say is power.
Yeah, i got the good old personal hygiene 3% like from x-mart, i think my hydro store carries like 32% for 10-12 bucks, but my local x-mart had buy one get one so i bought a bunch of the weak stuff instead. safer and easier to dose.
Personally I hate rockwool, but i was basically flooding it and relying on wicking, which is probably different from a top fed system. . . but i still hate it. i dont think it has very good aeration, even though the stats about it would seem like it does. anyways, i had a tough time with it, so thats why i am biased against it.
I have a bottle of the bushmaster, and did a couple foliar squirts at the end of week 2, but i didn't notice anything. . . it seems that it takes at least one grow f testing to find the right dose for any strain, so hope you like monoculture, or at least keeping the same strains around for a while.
apparently if you find the right dose, it does what it says well.
glad you found me bro.
Thanks for checking in on me NorCal. Can't be everywhere.
Hydro, apparently, is not my forte either. lmao. Always F'n something up, but in the end I get my bud too, and can at least say it always smokes better than anything you can buy.
Just trying to figure out the cause of the burn. knowledge as they say is power.
Yeah, i got the good old personal hygiene 3% like from x-mart, i think my hydro store carries like 32% for 10-12 bucks, but my local x-mart had buy one get one so i bought a bunch of the weak stuff instead. safer and easier to dose.
Personally I hate rockwool, but i was basically flooding it and relying on wicking, which is probably different from a top fed system. . . but i still hate it. i dont think it has very good aeration, even though the stats about it would seem like it does. anyways, i had a tough time with it, so thats why i am biased against it.
I have a bottle of the bushmaster, and did a couple foliar squirts at the end of week 2, but i didn't notice anything. . . it seems that it takes at least one grow f testing to find the right dose for any strain, so hope you like monoculture, or at least keeping the same strains around for a while.
apparently if you find the right dose, it does what it says well.
glad you found me bro.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
That Bushmaster is suppose to do a good drenching the week you start flowering. So I heard....... Tight nodes they say. No strech, faster flowering. 20$ 4 oz's. I guess I'll try it on all the plants I put inside the flowering room. We'll see. I hear that spraying doesn't really work takes a full drench. All good. Well my friend best with ya, I got to go transplant some NRT. Don't ask me if it's any good. KC Brains say's it is. So must be huh????????? LOL We'll see. GL with yours.
That Bushmaster is suppose to do a good drenching the week you start flowering. So I heard....... Tight nodes they say. No strech, faster flowering. 20$ 4 oz's. I guess I'll try it on all the plants I put inside the flowering room. We'll see. I hear that spraying doesn't really work takes a full drench. All good. Well my friend best with ya, I got to go transplant some NRT. Don't ask me if it's any good. KC Brains say's it is. So must be huh????????? LOL We'll see. GL with yours.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
yup u need to drench BM. it does work 100% for sure. all their products work as claimed. i can vouch on that
yup u need to drench BM. it does work 100% for sure. all their products work as claimed. i can vouch on that
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
Haha why, is she from South America? They eat them like we eat chicken. Not much meat on them though.
HEY... Wait a minute...
Haha why, is she from South America? They eat them like we eat chicken. Not much meat on them though.
HEY... Wait a minute...
- Thread starter
- #410
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
lol tor.
also about the BM, even right on my bottle, humbolt says that experimentation will most like be needed to find the "magic dose" level for your strain. on their site the say the dirt from clone is the easiest way to find the magic number because your first harvest you can pick 4 or 5 and dose all at different levels, find the one that stacks like a son of a bitch, and you have the magic number for the rest of your runs until you switch strains. hydro that has a shared res like my setup would take several harvests to find the magic number and without a real time direct comparison of results you have to compare only to pictures and memory.
of course you both inferred that you will use it foliar, and that what i think i'll do too. then you can dose individual plants if you want to find the right dose, and makes it way more feasible for hydro. I have to get some kelp or seaweed to compliment, as humbolt says make all the difference in the uptake.
lol tor.
also about the BM, even right on my bottle, humbolt says that experimentation will most like be needed to find the "magic dose" level for your strain. on their site the say the dirt from clone is the easiest way to find the magic number because your first harvest you can pick 4 or 5 and dose all at different levels, find the one that stacks like a son of a bitch, and you have the magic number for the rest of your runs until you switch strains. hydro that has a shared res like my setup would take several harvests to find the magic number and without a real time direct comparison of results you have to compare only to pictures and memory.
of course you both inferred that you will use it foliar, and that what i think i'll do too. then you can dose individual plants if you want to find the right dose, and makes it way more feasible for hydro. I have to get some kelp or seaweed to compliment, as humbolt says make all the difference in the uptake.
- Thread starter
- #411
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
I got some Bud Candy today, and added it to the res.
I asked my hydro guy about my flush with peroxide, and he suggested 4 oz per gal or 30 ml per liter for 3% H2O2 to kill nasties. sorry for my mixed units here but its how i like to think, i used 30 ml per gal and he suggested 120 ml per gal.
The article that suggested 30 ml per gal was written for adding to your res and nutes, not a flush, so it sounds like its about right to me. . . that makes 6 liters of 3% for a 50 gal res. would cost about $6 with the sale at x-mart. not bad. i could do that whenever it's called for.
its too late for this res, it is set now and i ran out of bud factor x, so i don't want to change it. that shit is like 75 bucks a liter, which i don't have spare at the moment. so hopefully even the weak h2o2 did some good, and i have 20ml/gal in there right now, so i hope that gave them a boost. if the pH still dives in a few days, I'll go big next flush.
anyone think 120ml/gal is too much? I don't have much experience using it.
I got some Bud Candy today, and added it to the res.
I asked my hydro guy about my flush with peroxide, and he suggested 4 oz per gal or 30 ml per liter for 3% H2O2 to kill nasties. sorry for my mixed units here but its how i like to think, i used 30 ml per gal and he suggested 120 ml per gal.
The article that suggested 30 ml per gal was written for adding to your res and nutes, not a flush, so it sounds like its about right to me. . . that makes 6 liters of 3% for a 50 gal res. would cost about $6 with the sale at x-mart. not bad. i could do that whenever it's called for.
its too late for this res, it is set now and i ran out of bud factor x, so i don't want to change it. that shit is like 75 bucks a liter, which i don't have spare at the moment. so hopefully even the weak h2o2 did some good, and i have 20ml/gal in there right now, so i hope that gave them a boost. if the pH still dives in a few days, I'll go big next flush.
anyone think 120ml/gal is too much? I don't have much experience using it.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
One day Dude I hope to see your wheel in full flower. I myself once thought of buying one. I think the majic is you need a ton of lowrider seed 'maybe' or something that stacks as you say, and they all need to be cloned from same mother at same time. I'm thinking of buying some lowrider X AK-47, or this Lowrider X Mosscow. I grew that Mosscow once at the start of my first thread here. It got to be a monster 38" and close to 2 oz's per. I wish I knew for sure which strain it was. I'd like to get 10 reg seeds and produce abunch of sedd stock. Hell plant 100 seed and flip 50 females in acouple months. Sounds like a decent plan to me. I still rememeber Lowrider #1. Man scrawny little 5 10 gram plants of questional quailty. But it was intresting. I planted like 500 of them in the wild back in southern Ill. I wonder if they still are growing there. I planted them in a good location, lots of water, and only deer hunters vist the area. Be intresting to see if they took hold. GL in your grow there. I got 'RAIN' again. Man I'm pissed
One day Dude I hope to see your wheel in full flower. I myself once thought of buying one. I think the majic is you need a ton of lowrider seed 'maybe' or something that stacks as you say, and they all need to be cloned from same mother at same time. I'm thinking of buying some lowrider X AK-47, or this Lowrider X Mosscow. I grew that Mosscow once at the start of my first thread here. It got to be a monster 38" and close to 2 oz's per. I wish I knew for sure which strain it was. I'd like to get 10 reg seeds and produce abunch of sedd stock. Hell plant 100 seed and flip 50 females in acouple months. Sounds like a decent plan to me. I still rememeber Lowrider #1. Man scrawny little 5 10 gram plants of questional quailty. But it was intresting. I planted like 500 of them in the wild back in southern Ill. I wonder if they still are growing there. I planted them in a good location, lots of water, and only deer hunters vist the area. Be intresting to see if they took hold. GL in your grow there. I got 'RAIN' again. Man I'm pissed
- Thread starter
- #414
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
maybe, one day when i'm more experienced and wiser, have more room to breath, and more time to dabble, I will fire her up again and give her a good run. I was thinking the exact same thing about the autos which is why I ran that auto run to try to get some auto fem seeds. I did ok and got about 50 good seeds all female. But I've found out that when you have only one sex changed male there is not enough pollen to make a ton of seeds, at least when you use STS. . . so sometime I am going to run them all and make like 10 of them male. let their genes mix, I don't care, they are all short autos with the exact same flowering period. so those traits should be consistent, and i should be able to pull a few hundred seeds at least, maybe a great deal more. That would set me up for a pretty ideal situation with the wheel, and there are still a bunch of things I'd like to try, like forcing some 4" sure to grow cubes in there after I've played around with the stuff, i like it much better than RW for damn sure, or some other medium i can rig up diy.
I have hundreds of LR#2 seeds i made but they are regular m/f and to be honest, i didn't like the taste or the high all that much, but thats just me. Man a REAL male plant puts off so much good pollen its incredible. But i probably will only grow those if I get desperate.
the Bush Master should be the answer to the height problem and even let you veg for a week or two if you want with normal phototropic varieties.
up here, rain is a good thing. lol. rarely do we suffer blithe or other too wet problems.
maybe, one day when i'm more experienced and wiser, have more room to breath, and more time to dabble, I will fire her up again and give her a good run. I was thinking the exact same thing about the autos which is why I ran that auto run to try to get some auto fem seeds. I did ok and got about 50 good seeds all female. But I've found out that when you have only one sex changed male there is not enough pollen to make a ton of seeds, at least when you use STS. . . so sometime I am going to run them all and make like 10 of them male. let their genes mix, I don't care, they are all short autos with the exact same flowering period. so those traits should be consistent, and i should be able to pull a few hundred seeds at least, maybe a great deal more. That would set me up for a pretty ideal situation with the wheel, and there are still a bunch of things I'd like to try, like forcing some 4" sure to grow cubes in there after I've played around with the stuff, i like it much better than RW for damn sure, or some other medium i can rig up diy.
I have hundreds of LR#2 seeds i made but they are regular m/f and to be honest, i didn't like the taste or the high all that much, but thats just me. Man a REAL male plant puts off so much good pollen its incredible. But i probably will only grow those if I get desperate.
the Bush Master should be the answer to the height problem and even let you veg for a week or two if you want with normal phototropic varieties.
up here, rain is a good thing. lol. rarely do we suffer blithe or other too wet problems.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
Think I had a similar issue arise my side I just harvested. This does make sense. The only thing I can think of (for my setup) is more frequent res changes and not using any pH down to start with. When I do it this way it drifts up into mid sixes then comes down. The rate of this is all depending on size of the plants, temps, transpiration etc. I think Now that I've gone longer veg time, denser root systems larger plants in general a 10 day res swap needs to come back to 7 days and I need to make sure to keep topped off with fresh RO water or ppm could go to high. (Also helps cool it off a bit)
Good growing
Think I had a similar issue arise my side I just harvested. This does make sense. The only thing I can think of (for my setup) is more frequent res changes and not using any pH down to start with. When I do it this way it drifts up into mid sixes then comes down. The rate of this is all depending on size of the plants, temps, transpiration etc. I think Now that I've gone longer veg time, denser root systems larger plants in general a 10 day res swap needs to come back to 7 days and I need to make sure to keep topped off with fresh RO water or ppm could go to high. (Also helps cool it off a bit)
Good growing
StinkFinger
New Member
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
Not just you man. I'm still drying mine out, but I've been leaning towards your assessment for quite a bit. Shit just doesn't smell or taste like "normal" landrace bud.
Sf.
Not just you man. I'm still drying mine out, but I've been leaning towards your assessment for quite a bit. Shit just doesn't smell or taste like "normal" landrace bud.
Sf.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
I've read that a lot about LR2. I've also read that the original LR was the better choice for a breeding parent. But IDK personally.
With your limited gene-pool it might not be a bad idea to do a straight-up seed run in which you crossed things every way that you could. It'd make for a jumbled set of seeds but you might end up liking the ultimate results of those seeds more. Probably wouldn't enjoy the actual business of picking seeds out of each and every bud you smoke though lol. But long-term... Yeah.
I've read that a lot about LR2. I've also read that the original LR was the better choice for a breeding parent. But IDK personally.
With your limited gene-pool it might not be a bad idea to do a straight-up seed run in which you crossed things every way that you could. It'd make for a jumbled set of seeds but you might end up liking the ultimate results of those seeds more. Probably wouldn't enjoy the actual business of picking seeds out of each and every bud you smoke though lol. But long-term... Yeah.
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
Bah, you just break the bud up on some cardboard, tilt it a few degrees, and the seeds run right off.
No, I don't miss those days, but people are so spoiled now.
sinsewhata? lol
Bah, you just break the bud up on some cardboard, tilt it a few degrees, and the seeds run right off.
No, I don't miss those days, but people are so spoiled now.
sinsewhata? lol
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
Haha yeah I remember cleaning sativas on double-albums back in the day. Maybe that's why they call the music in them classic rock now?
Haha yeah I remember cleaning sativas on double-albums back in the day. Maybe that's why they call the music in them classic rock now?
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.
wow i just had a flash back of the old days. good old cardboard.lol
wow i just had a flash back of the old days. good old cardboard.lol
Similar threads
