The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[013]

this is totally kewl and nope, no scowling at all.

Ok carbon as in coco coir or composted mulch but not biochar… thanks for clearing that up. And biochar not to exceed 5% of the mix. Thank you, thank you very much sir!

Right now I’d say I’m closer to 1% biochar content in my used soils, so there’s no worries there.

There’s only 4 nutes that I use, everything else is cooked into the soil. 1) Alaska fish ferts, 2) an organish product called Down to Earth 5-4-2 its meal based (see paste below) and 3) maybe Geoflora veg or bloom lastly 4) if I’m getting whacked hard with PK demands in flower I use The Fox Farm crystals 0-50-30 think it’s FF Beastie Bloom but it’s probably chelated out the wazoo. I don’t use it until late in flower anyways, while fully aware that I’ve probably shot myself in the foot crossing between organish and the FF Beastie Blooms. Again FF only in late late flower heck I’ll drag her kicking and screaming across the finish line if I have to.

Down To Earth
NITROGEN TOTAL (N) 5.0%
0.4% Water Soluble Nitrogen
4.6% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
AVAILABLE PHOSPHATE (P2O5) 4.0%
SOLUBLE POTASH (K2O) 2.0%

Derived from:
Fish Bone Meal, Fish Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Crab Meal, Shrimp Meal, Langbeinite, and Kelp Meal


ALSO CONTAINS NON-PLANT FOOD INGREDIENT(S):
2.5% Humic Acids derived from Leonardite
Endomycorrhizal fungi: Rhizophagus irregularis, Funneliformis mosseae, Glomus deserticola – 0.5 prop/gm each; Glomus clarum – 0.2 prop/gm; Glomus monosporum – 0.1 prop/gm; Glomus aggregatum, Glomus etunicatum – 0.05 prop/gm each;Paraglomus brasilianum, Gigaspora margarita – 0.02 prop/gm each. (878 prop/lb total)
Ectomycorrhizal fungi: Rhizopogon villosulus, R. luteolus, R. amylopogon, R. fulvigleba – 300 prop/gm each; Pisolithus tinctorius – 5,500 prop/gm; Scleroderma cepa, S. citrinum – 575 prop/gm each. (3.5 million prop/lb total)
Trichoderma: Trichoderma harzianum, T. koningii – 13,750 CFU/gm each. (12.4 million CFU/lb total)
Saccharomyces: Saccharomyces cerevisiae – 18,750 CFU/gm. (8.5 million CFU/lb total)
Bacteria: Bacillus coagulans, B. licheniformis, B. megaterium, B. pumilus, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Pseudomonas chlororaphis, P. fluorescens – 18,750 CFU/gm each. (68.1 million CFU/lb total)

Rice Hulls, sure it’s my pleasure

Started with the idea of rice hulls as mulch layer, but given the silica content figured it would be good overall amendment in my global mix. Next minute along comes BudsBuddy & Azi with their SIPS followed by Carmen and SWICKS so I use the rice hulls as the 40% extra aeration.

Technically speaking you can run straight rice hulls as soilless media provided you feed accordingly.

My last 10 plants were swicks, at first upcan I fill up smart pot with soil mix containing 40% rice hulls, top dress with EWC, Neem seed meal, skeeter bits, greensand, thick mulch layer of rice hulls with sprinkle of sand and rock on. I do break up the crust layer on top when it develops all thru the grow now (always knew it was crusted but didn’t grasp the reduced oxygen ramifications until this Gee64 guy on inter-webs hooked me up)

A week or so before flip I do it all over again… Another 2 cups of EWC, more Neem seed meal, mosquito bits topped with thick layer of rice hulls & sprinkled with sand. The rice hulls as mulch layer might get crusted or hydrophobic so I plow the indoor canna fields when necessary and use pump sprayer to apply top water and of course I keep the res filled too.

Never done Brix testing but figured once I get garden really stabilized it’s a tool that will pay for itself…

Thanks for trying to edumacate me!

 

[Gee64]

this is totally kewl and nope, no scowling at all.

Ok carbon as in coco coir or composted mulch but not biochar… thanks for clearing that up. And biochar not to exceed 5% of the mix. Thank you, thank you very much sir!

Right now I’d say I’m closer to 1% biochar content in my used soils, so there’s no worries there.

There’s only 4 nutes that I use, everything else is cooked into the soil. 1) Alaska fish ferts, 2) an organish product called Down to Earth 5-4-2 its meal based (see paste below) and 3) maybe Geoflora veg or bloom lastly 4) if I’m getting whacked hard with PK demands in flower I use The Fox Farm crystals 0-50-30 think it’s FF Beastie Bloom but it’s probably chelated out the wazoo. I don’t use it until late in flower anyways, while fully aware that I’ve probably shot myself in the foot crossing between organish and the FF Beastie Blooms. Again FF only in late late flower heck I’ll drag her kicking and screaming across the finish line if I have to.

Down To Earth
NITROGEN TOTAL (N) 5.0%
0.4% Water Soluble Nitrogen
4.6% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
AVAILABLE PHOSPHATE (P2O5) 4.0%
SOLUBLE POTASH (K2O) 2.0%

Derived from:
Fish Bone Meal, Fish Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Crab Meal, Shrimp Meal, Langbeinite, and Kelp Meal


ALSO CONTAINS NON-PLANT FOOD INGREDIENT(S):
2.5% Humic Acids derived from Leonardite
Endomycorrhizal fungi: Rhizophagus irregularis, Funneliformis mosseae, Glomus deserticola – 0.5 prop/gm each; Glomus clarum – 0.2 prop/gm; Glomus monosporum – 0.1 prop/gm; Glomus aggregatum, Glomus etunicatum – 0.05 prop/gm each;Paraglomus brasilianum, Gigaspora margarita – 0.02 prop/gm each. (878 prop/lb total)
Ectomycorrhizal fungi: Rhizopogon villosulus, R. luteolus, R. amylopogon, R. fulvigleba – 300 prop/gm each; Pisolithus tinctorius – 5,500 prop/gm; Scleroderma cepa, S. citrinum – 575 prop/gm each. (3.5 million prop/lb total)
Trichoderma: Trichoderma harzianum, T. koningii – 13,750 CFU/gm each. (12.4 million CFU/lb total)
Saccharomyces: Saccharomyces cerevisiae – 18,750 CFU/gm. (8.5 million CFU/lb total)
Bacteria: Bacillus coagulans, B. licheniformis, B. megaterium, B. pumilus, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Pseudomonas chlororaphis, P. fluorescens – 18,750 CFU/gm each. (68.1 million CFU/lb total)

Rice Hulls, sure it’s my pleasure

Started with the idea of rice hulls as mulch layer, but given the silica content figured it would be good overall amendment in my global mix. Next minute along comes BudsBuddy & Azi with their SIPS followed directly by Carmen and SWICKS so I use the rice hulls as the 40% extra aeration.

Technically speaking you can run straight rice hulls as soilless media provided you feed accordingly.

My last 10 plants were swicks, at first upcan I fill up smart pot with soil mix containing 40% rice hulls, top dress with EWC, Neem seed meal, skeeter bits, greensand, thick mulch layer of rice hulls with sprinkle of sand and rock on. I do break up the crust layer on top when it develops all thru the grow now (always knew it was crusted but didn’t grasp the reduced oxygen ramifications until this Gee64 guy on inter-webs hooked me up)

A week or so before flip I do it all over again… Another 2 cups of EWC, more Neem seed meal, mosquito bits topped with thick layer of rice hulls & sprinkled with sand. The rice hulls as mulch layer might get crusted or hydrophobic so I plow the indoor canna fields when necessary and use pump sprayer to apply top water and of course I keep the res filled too.

Never done Brix testing but figured once I get garden really stabilized it’s a tool that will pay for itself…

Thanks for trying to edumacate me!

Yeah that Gee guy, he's always trying to make people do stuff

It's almost bed time so 1 more quick question on rice hulls. Well 2. Do they break down and can I assume they are a perlite replacement?

And this question. Got any good plant pics, preferably right before harvest and right before flip?

Spam a ton, good or bad if you like. I love picks and swicks intrigue me.

And this one. Has your used soil been rebuilt before and how was it built/rebuilt?

 

[013]

No rush on this, one day next week is fine, lotsa peeps are gearing up for big weekend, roadtrip etc

 

[013]

They do break down but it takes about 2 years… they are still very easy to spot in the bucket. Still have some chunky perlite left in reserve for special projects but mostly have migrated to hulls and pumice, 40% hulls and maybe 5% pumice in the mix.

Oooh I’ll look on the pics but not sure if I can produce corresponding pairs of same plant before flip and at harvest…

Ok rebuilt soil yes, rebuilt soil properly that would be a big fat no… typically I’ll chunk few gallons of mushroom compost, EWC, some coco coir, a cup of blood, bone, kelp then water it in and make her sweat.

Same same my eyelids weigh a ton. Have a great nite, catch you later!

Edit to add: no dice on pics at flip, pretty slack at journaling, not intentional just time constraints. I’ll find some flower pics tho

 

[Carmen Ray]

Good morning Gee, may I ask you to help me to devise a schedule for when I must root drench with the hydrolysate, and what the full procedure should entail? I want to implement a new plan going forward. I'm planting in reconditioned soil from the last grow. Fortunately there is a recharging pack that I can use, called Dirty Hands Essential Blend. The instructions are simply to add a certain amount of the essential blend, mix well and cook a while. So the soil is ready for planting and all I need is some seedlings and a plan

 

[Azimuth]

I didn't get to topdressing today. Tomorrow it is. Sorry Ladies, life has been really busy this week.

What is it you topdress with and at what rate per gallon of soil?

 

[Gee64]

Good morning Gee, may I ask you to help me to devise a schedule for when I must root drench with the hydrolysate, and what the full procedure should entail? I want to implement a new plan going forward. I'm planting in reconditioned soil from the last grow. Fortunately there is a recharging pack that I can use, called Dirty Hands Essential Blend. The instructions are simply to add a certain amount of the essential blend, mix well and cook a while. So the soil is ready for planting and all I need is some seedlings and a plan

Certainly Carmen, and Good Morning️.

Fish hydrolysate isn't a root drench per se, it's just an additive for watering.

A root drench is done to ensure you have no dry spots, as Azi had, and pretty much every pot encounters one sooner or later, and to fix things in the pot such as inconsistant calcium cycling.

It homogenizes the pot. Calcium is very mobile in water so it spreads it around. That evens out the electricity in the soil and evens out the calcium to magnesium ratio which both sets the correct charge for the humates and colloids, what I refer to as the platters, so your CEC runs correctly, and ensures nitrogen isn't being locked up which also ensures magnesium isn't being locked up.

I like to either sprout in a 1.6gal or a 10gal, so I usually do my 1st root drench at about 3 weeks in the 1.6gal.

In the 10gal I do it before planting. Then I usually do a 2nd one at about week 5, as the 1.6gal is getting full and dry spots can occur fast once roots fill in, and then again right before flip. In thec10gal I can usually skip the 5 week one and just do a full heavy but very gentle watering to full runoff. Usually about 8 litres, then wait an hour, then 8 more litres.

You want all soil locked nitrogen released, and you want your Cal and mag working correctly which ensures a good CEC and PH, before flower begins.

Stretch is hard on a plant and deficiencies arise quite often just after stretch. That means they started duringvstretch, usually about 2 werks before you see them in the leaves.

A pre-emptive root drench can quite often help avoid this.

Once stretch is over, minerals become very important to flower production so no lockout and a good CEC/PH become paramount.

For the drench itself, it's not a flush. You aren't trying to rinse things out. You want complete hydration but as gentle as possible. I can't stress this enough. Gentle.

If you use cloth pots, get a tub taller than the pot, fill it half full with water, set the pot in it and help support the pot until it absorbs gently and settles on the bottom.

Then add water to the tub incrementally until the entire pot is almost submerged.

You will see the soil surface all of a sudden become really wet when the tub is almost as full as the pot is tall. At that point let it sit for 10-15 minutes in the water, then slowly lift it out a couple inches at a time and let the water slowly seep out, you don't want violent runoff, so don't just pull it out to drain.

After a couple minutes you will have the pot out. Set it on a rack to drip out and you are good to go. Slowly and patience are key here.

If you are in a hard pot then try to very slowly water the pot with at least it's volume in water, so a 1 gal pot would get 1 gallon of water, then wait an hour and do it a second time, or you could put the pot in a tub and do the same as with the cloth pot, but you don't need to fill the tub as deep. At about half depth the water will really slow in penetration as it can't freely run out the bottom and will pool at the surface.

This slowness allows better hydration into the soil.

I don't use hard pots and one of the main reasons is because it complicates root soaks. But either way just be patient and take your time.

Make an afternoon of it. It will pay off bigtime. All the excess water when done is great in house plants or outdoor gardens.

Any time you think a problem is starting, a root drench is a good start to fix it. After a root drench when the soil is evenly moist is also the best time for a tea as it will flow better in the wet soil and get into the entire pot evenly, so if you are thinking of giving a tea, try to combine it with a root drench. I like about 24 hours in between the 2.

Fish Hydrolosate - Follow the instructions, more is just a waste. Mine mixes at 1.5ml per litre of water.

In my 10gal pots I use 1 litre every 3rd watering, give or take. You will learn to read the plant. Any time it's starting to slow down give it some, but otherwise if you want a schedule, every 3rd watering.

It is in addition to watering. What I do is water 1st with water so the soil is evenly moist, then an hour or 2 later add the fish water.

It is safe for babies too. I usually give it to seedlings after day 10, as it's mainly for myco and myco takes a week or so to get established.

You don't need to overdo it, just a regular schedule. It's basically a vitamin water for plants. Myco flourishes bigtime with it, it's an immunity booster and a stress reliever. If a big event is looming such as an uppot or a pruning, fish water both on the watering before and the watering after really helps.

On the jug there will also be instructions for a foliar mix. If you have a sick seedling usually 1 foliar will straighten it out, and it doesn't keep, so if you need a foliar then after you spray use the rest to water with.

I don't foliar healthy plants but a sick seedling quite often recovers forever with one drenching foliar.

Most seedlings are healthy so this is rare, but it works.

 

[Gee64]

What is it you topdress with and at what rate per gallon of soil?

Normally in Rev's mix I do a top dress of all the ingredients in his mix, in ratio as per his mix, but leave the meals and the calciums out. So a mineral mix.

3 tablespoons per gallon per month, so a 10gal gets 30 tbsp/month, divided by 4 into weekly, and apply when the pot surface is dryish so it can be scratched in with fingers, then covered with EWC, then watered in. When scratching in, scratch the surface 1st, check for crustiness, then topdress and scratch it in again. If it sits on top it will repel water like nestle quick does.

Every strain requires more or less tho so less is uncommon, but more can happen.

You will know if they need more. They will start to look less than 100%. Hungry.

That usually happens in flower until you figure the strain out. Heavy feeders or huge plants require more. Twice as much isn't uncommon.

I don't topdress anything other than EWC in veg.

Small pots may require more topdressings at a lower rate because of the small surface area, but try to evenly achieve your monthly goal. The hidden part of brix, not 1 of the 5 main components, is good mineralization. It, like good light and water, needs to be present all the time for brix to climb.

Good minerals are best when cooked into the global mix and maintained via topdressing once flower begins.

 

[Gee64]

this is totally kewl and nope, no scowling at all.

Ok carbon as in coco coir or composted mulch but not biochar… thanks for clearing that up. And biochar not to exceed 5% of the mix. Thank you, thank you very much sir!

Right now I’d say I’m closer to 1% biochar content in my used soils, so there’s no worries there.

There’s only 4 nutes that I use, everything else is cooked into the soil. 1) Alaska fish ferts, 2) an organish product called Down to Earth 5-4-2 its meal based (see paste below) and 3) maybe Geoflora veg or bloom lastly 4) if I’m getting whacked hard with PK demands in flower I use The Fox Farm crystals 0-50-30 think it’s FF Beastie Bloom but it’s probably chelated out the wazoo. I don’t use it until late in flower anyways, while fully aware that I’ve probably shot myself in the foot crossing between organish and the FF Beastie Blooms. Again FF only in late late flower heck I’ll drag her kicking and screaming across the finish line if I have to.

Down To Earth
NITROGEN TOTAL (N) 5.0%
0.4% Water Soluble Nitrogen
4.6% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
AVAILABLE PHOSPHATE (P2O5) 4.0%
SOLUBLE POTASH (K2O) 2.0%

Derived from:
Fish Bone Meal, Fish Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Crab Meal, Shrimp Meal, Langbeinite, and Kelp Meal


ALSO CONTAINS NON-PLANT FOOD INGREDIENT(S):
2.5% Humic Acids derived from Leonardite
Endomycorrhizal fungi: Rhizophagus irregularis, Funneliformis mosseae, Glomus deserticola – 0.5 prop/gm each; Glomus clarum – 0.2 prop/gm; Glomus monosporum – 0.1 prop/gm; Glomus aggregatum, Glomus etunicatum – 0.05 prop/gm each;Paraglomus brasilianum, Gigaspora margarita – 0.02 prop/gm each. (878 prop/lb total)
Ectomycorrhizal fungi: Rhizopogon villosulus, R. luteolus, R. amylopogon, R. fulvigleba – 300 prop/gm each; Pisolithus tinctorius – 5,500 prop/gm; Scleroderma cepa, S. citrinum – 575 prop/gm each. (3.5 million prop/lb total)
Trichoderma: Trichoderma harzianum, T. koningii – 13,750 CFU/gm each. (12.4 million CFU/lb total)
Saccharomyces: Saccharomyces cerevisiae – 18,750 CFU/gm. (8.5 million CFU/lb total)
Bacteria: Bacillus coagulans, B. licheniformis, B. megaterium, B. pumilus, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Pseudomonas chlororaphis, P. fluorescens – 18,750 CFU/gm each. (68.1 million CFU/lb total)

Rice Hulls, sure it’s my pleasure

Started with the idea of rice hulls as mulch layer, but given the silica content figured it would be good overall amendment in my global mix. Next minute along comes BudsBuddy & Azi with their SIPS followed by Carmen and SWICKS so I use the rice hulls as the 40% extra aeration.

Technically speaking you can run straight rice hulls as soilless media provided you feed accordingly.

My last 10 plants were swicks, at first upcan I fill up smart pot with soil mix containing 40% rice hulls, top dress with EWC, Neem seed meal, skeeter bits, greensand, thick mulch layer of rice hulls with sprinkle of sand and rock on. I do break up the crust layer on top when it develops all thru the grow now (always knew it was crusted but didn’t grasp the reduced oxygen ramifications until this Gee64 guy on inter-webs hooked me up)

A week or so before flip I do it all over again… Another 2 cups of EWC, more Neem seed meal, mosquito bits topped with thick layer of rice hulls & sprinkled with sand. The rice hulls as mulch layer might get crusted or hydrophobic so I plow the indoor canna fields when necessary and use pump sprayer to apply top water and of course I keep the res filled too.

Never done Brix testing but figured once I get garden really stabilized it’s a tool that will pay for itself…

Thanks for trying to edumacate me!

If you added greensand and soft rock phosphate to your mix prior to cooking you may not see that P and K problem, and use spikes in flower that also contain kelp and bat guano in them.

P needs to be in the mix from the day of sprouting.

Every day of the plant's life it needs to take in a bit more. It accumulates in the circulatory system to haul nutrients in and take exudates out. So as the plant grows it requires more nutes in, and the soil requires more exudates to support tomorrows bigger demand because the plant grew overnight, otherwise sooner or later you fall behind and catching up without high dose P is pretty much impossible.

P is best always available in slow release forms. It's important that the microbes have to work hard for it. Too much at once kills myco.

K not as much, but it needs to be available too, and slow release is better.

Greensand and kelp in combination really shine.

In good soil you will never see a P or K def if your pot is big enough for the plant.

A small rootball in comparison to the amount of foliage, on the other hand, and you will see both.

Proper pruning helps here too. It allows the rootball to get ahead of the foliage so it can deliver more than is required to grow the foliage.

 

[Gee64]

So there is something that has been weighing on me lately, and I'm going to tell you about it.

Not to be dramatic, or try to "rally the troops" or anything like that. I would actually prefer that we never talk about or mention it moving forward, I just want you to know is all.

No need to reply to this post or even give it a like, and to be honest I really don't want any replies to it. So here goes.

A couple of times in the recent past I have had to rip someone a new asshole. Thats not me. It's a calculated statement that I have spent a lot of time writing to get it just right.

Organics is a thing that intimidates a lot of people and makes them defensive as soon as they walk into the room. I get that.

The problem is that every now and then you get someone who gets off on trolling. Thats where damage gets done.

You guys see how many words I need to type to slowly put the pieces together for you so the lights come on. A troll causes me a lot of collateral damage management.

So it comes down to the best piece of advice I was ever given, and it comes from My Father.

He said ,"Son, if 2 people are in a room and one of them is acting like an asshole, make sure it's never you, but if the room forces you to be an asshole, make sure you're the biggest asshole in the room".

So if any of you were unfortunate enough to see my bad behavior, I apologize as it's not me. I'm a very patient person. But sometimes there is damage being done and the room forces you to be an asshole.

So I don't want to discuss this or ask for support or rally anyone onto my team, so to speak, I just want you all to know that isn't my character, it was a nescessary evil at the time.

You guys are all getting your game on pretty darn good these days and one troll can cause a lot of damage.

So please don't reply to this, just know it's not me by nature, and if you saw it happen I'm sorry you saw it.

 

[013]

As requested, no comments

but pretty sure a trio of fist bump emojis fell out of my pocket and landed right on your page

 

[StoneOtter]

Good morning GEE!

 

[Carmen Ray]

Certainly Carmen, and Good Morning️.

Fish hydrolysate isn't a root drench per se, it's just an additive for watering.

Ah, sorry I knew that. Sometimes I'm not very good at articulating my thought.

A root drench is done to ensure you have no dry spots, as Azi had, and pretty much every pot encounters one sooner or later, and to fix things in the pot such as inconsistant calcium cycling.

It homogenizes the pot. Calcium is very mobile in water so it spreads it around. That evens out the electricity in the soil and evens out the calcium to magnesium ratio which both sets the correct charge for the humates and colloids, what I refer to as the platters, so your CEC runs correctly, and ensures nitrogen isn't being locked up which also ensures magnesium isn't being locked up.

I like to either sprout in a 1.6gal or a 10gal, so I usually do my 1st root drench at about 3 weeks in the 1.6gal.

In the 10gal I do it before planting. Then I usually do a 2nd one at about week 5, as the 1.6gal is getting full and dry spots can occur fast once roots fill in, and then again right before flip. In thec10gal I can usually skip the 5 week one and just do a full heavy but very gentle watering to full runoff. Usually about 8 litres, then wait an hour, then 8 more litres.

Thank you. This will differ with autos because we are on a clock and flower is typically 30ish days in.

You want all soil locked nitrogen released, and you want your Cal and mag working correctly which ensures a good CEC and PH, before flower begins.

Stretch is hard on a plant and deficiencies arise quite often just after stretch. That means they started duringvstretch, usually about 2 werks before you see them in the leaves.

A pre-emptive root drench can quite often help avoid this.

I'm going to draw your attention @Jon . I usually aim to top at first sign of pistils, do you think a pre-emptive root drench would be right at this point, either before or after topping? Sorry I know you're still learning the ropes with organics, but you know the lifecycle of an autoflower well enough to judge I'd say.

Once stretch is over, minerals become very important to flower production so no lockout and a good CEC/PH become paramount.

For the drench itself, it's not a flush. You aren't trying to rinse things out. You want complete hydration but as gentle as possible. I can't stress this enough. Gentle.

If you use cloth pots, get a tub taller than the pot, fill it half full with water, set the pot in it and help support the pot until it absorbs gently and settles on the bottom.

Then add water to the tub incrementally until the entire pot is almost submerged.

You will see the soil surface all of a sudden become really wet when the tub is almost as full as the pot is tall. At that point let it sit for 10-15 minutes in the water, then slowly lift it out a couple inches at a time and let the water slowly seep out, you don't want violent runoff, so don't just pull it out to drain.

I worry that I don't have the physical strength to do this. My cloth pots are 20 L and fully submerged in water they will be much heavier. I could probably lift them out in a hurry but then I'd end up with the violent runoff, and I know from previous experience, that compacts the soil.

After a couple minutes you will have the pot out. Set it on a rack to drip out and you are good to go. Slowly and patience are key here.


If you are in a hard pot then try to very slowly water the pot with at least it's volume in water, so a 1 gal pot would get 1 gallon of water, then wait an hour and do it a second time, or you could put the pot in a tub and do the same as with the cloth pot, but you don't need to fill the tub as deep. At about half depth the water will really slow in penetration as it can't freely run out the bottom and will pool at the surface.

This slowness allows better hydration into the soil.

I don't use hard pots and one of the main reasons is because it complicates root soaks. But either way just be patient and take your time.

Make an afternoon of it. It will pay off bigtime. All the excess water when done is great in house plants or outdoor gardens.

Any time you think a problem is starting, a root drench is a good start to fix it. After a root drench when the soil is evenly moist is also the best time for a tea as it will flow better in the wet soil and get into the entire pot evenly, so if you are thinking of giving a tea, try to combine it with a root drench. I like about 24 hours in between the 2.

Fish Hydrolosate - Follow the instructions, more is just a waste. Mine mixes at 1.5ml per litre of water.

Ok, makes sense. Thanks

In my 10gal pots I use 1 litre every 3rd watering, give or take. You will learn to read the plant. Any time it's starting to slow down give it some, but otherwise if you want a schedule, every 3rd watering.

It is in addition to watering. What I do is water 1st with water so the soil is evenly moist, then an hour or 2 later add the fish water.

It is safe for babies too. I usually give it to seedlings after day 10, as it's mainly for myco and myco takes a week or so to get established.

You don't need to overdo it, just a regular schedule. It's basically a vitamin water for plants. Myco flourishes bigtime with it, it's an immunity booster and a stress reliever. If a big event is looming such as an uppot or a pruning, fish water both on the watering before and the watering after really helps.

On the jug there will also be instructions for a foliar mix. If you have a sick seedling usually 1 foliar will straighten it out, and it doesn't keep, so if you need a foliar then after you spray use the rest to water with.

I don't foliar healthy plants but a sick seedling quite often recovers forever with one drenching foliar.

Most seedlings are healthy so this is rare, but it works.

Thanks Gee.

 

[013]

If you added greensand and soft rock phosphate to your mix prior to cooking you may not see that P and K problem, and use spikes in flower that also contain kelp and bat guano in them.

P needs to be in the mix from the day of sprouting.

Every day of the plant's life it needs to take in a bit more. It accumulates in the circulatory system to haul nutrients in and take exudates out. So as the plant grows it requires more nutes in, and the soil requires more exudates to support tomorrows bigger demand because the plant grew overnight, otherwise sooner or later you fall behind and catching up without high dose P is pretty much impossible.

P is best always available in slow release forms. It's important that the microbes have to work hard for it. Too much at once kills myco.

K not as much, but it needs to be available too, and slow release is better.

Greensand and kelp in combination really shine.

In good soil you will never see a P or K def if your pot is big enough for the plant.

A small rootball in comparison to the amount of foliage, on the other hand, and you will see both.

Proper pruning helps here too. It allows the rootball to get ahead of the foliage so it can deliver more than is required to grow the foliage.

I’m not always seeing PK deficiency in flower, some strains yes but last few clone sister plants ran pretty strong to the end. Maybe it was just that pheno or perhaps my soil is performing better over time as I’ve been adding old soil and coco.

I’ve never used the soft rock phosphate before but just bought it last week.

How do I ensure my cut up bits of weed stalks counts as proper carbon source? Is it best to compost them into a spare tub of my soil mix or mulch them in a smaller tub full of worm castings? Water them in and let them cook for 45 days or so?

Gimme minute to post up some pics…did I mention I take some real shitty pics?

Think these are all PPOG clones

0B801039-95E9-46BE-9415-2C630441DAFC.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

8D068267-9C46-4753-B0AB-55128F705371.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

5123E74A-DDE9-4E30-8537-7E995E042704.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

B613B1DE-8E94-4418-916D-CB96E5A9EF80.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

E38CC491-536A-4097-A038-EC07568DE04B.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

189CFFD1-30A1-4EBE-9BF1-D060C8F16CCE.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

82E62BB8-F671-4B98-B74B-6BABE0AE00F0.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

CAAF81B6-A001-4E22-A171-FF0103A386FA.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

This last one is right after 3 day blow job from the fan

6CFEEBD3-A768-42F6-BE71-5387C3AA4083.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

 

[Jon]

I’m not always seeing PK deficiency in flower, some strains yes but last few clone sister plants ran pretty strong to the end. Maybe it was just that pheno or perhaps my soil is performing better over time as I’ve been adding old soil and coco.

I’ve never used the soft rock phosphate before but just bought it last week.

How do I ensure my cut up bits of weed stalks counts as proper carbon source? Is it best to compost them into a spare tub of my soil mix or mulch them in a smaller tub full of worm castings? Water them in and let them cook for 45 days or so?

Gimme minute to post up some pics…did I mention I take some real shitty pics?

Think these are all PPOG clones

0B801039-95E9-46BE-9415-2C630441DAFC.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

8D068267-9C46-4753-B0AB-55128F705371.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

5123E74A-DDE9-4E30-8537-7E995E042704.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

B613B1DE-8E94-4418-916D-CB96E5A9EF80.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

E38CC491-536A-4097-A038-EC07568DE04B.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

189CFFD1-30A1-4EBE-9BF1-D060C8F16CCE.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

82E62BB8-F671-4B98-B74B-6BABE0AE00F0.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

CAAF81B6-A001-4E22-A171-FF0103A386FA.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

This last one is right after 3 day blow job from the fan

6CFEEBD3-A768-42F6-BE71-5387C3AA4083.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

Gorgeous.

 

[Azimuth]

Normally in Rev's mix I do a top dress of all the ingredients in his mix, in ratio as per his mix, but leave the meals and the calciums out. So a mineral mix.

Hmmm. That sounds backwards.

If meals are broken down and available in 2-4 weeks and the minerals take months to become available, I'm not getting your logic.

 

[Jon]

Hmmm. That sounds backwards.

If meals are broken down and available in 2-4 weeks and the minerals take months to become available, I'm not getting your logic.

I have a maybe not so dumb guess! Maybe if it’s on top and mineral, the idea is an extra time released benefit as you water atop it over the course of the grow? Wouldn’t that make it available around flower time?

 

[Azimuth]

I have a maybe not so dumb guess! Maybe if it’s on top and mineral, the idea is an extra time released benefit as you water atop it over the course of the grow? Wouldn’t that make it available around flower time?

Well, you'd likely get the water soluble stuff to put to work, but reusing your soil over multiple grows is how I understand you get to use the minerals since they take so long to breakdown. That's why organic mineralized soils get better every subsequent round.

If you dump a bunch of stone dust in a bucket of water it will turn the water cloudy which is the water soluble stuff getting captured in the water. But drain that water and put in fresh and you'll get less and less cloudy each round, eventually it'll be clear.

But maybe that's a cheat to get at the freely available minerals and why it's necessary to keep reapplying them every few weeks.

 

[Gee64]

I’m not always seeing PK deficiency in flower, some strains yes but last few clone sister plants ran pretty strong to the end. Maybe it was just that pheno or perhaps my soil is performing better over time as I’ve been adding old soil and coco.

I’ve never used the soft rock phosphate before but just bought it last week.

How do I ensure my cut up bits of weed stalks counts as proper carbon source? Is it best to compost them into a spare tub of my soil mix or mulch them in a smaller tub full of worm castings? Water them in and let them cook for 45 days or so?

Gimme minute to post up some pics…did I mention I take some real shitty pics?

Think these are all PPOG clones

0B801039-95E9-46BE-9415-2C630441DAFC.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

8D068267-9C46-4753-B0AB-55128F705371.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

5123E74A-DDE9-4E30-8537-7E995E042704.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

B613B1DE-8E94-4418-916D-CB96E5A9EF80.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

E38CC491-536A-4097-A038-EC07568DE04B.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

189CFFD1-30A1-4EBE-9BF1-D060C8F16CCE.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

82E62BB8-F671-4B98-B74B-6BABE0AE00F0.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

CAAF81B6-A001-4E22-A171-FF0103A386FA.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

This last one is right after 3 day blow job from the fan

6CFEEBD3-A768-42F6-BE71-5387C3AA4083.jpeg

• 013
• May 23, 2024

Nice 013. Looks like you filled some jars!. Thanks, I love pictures and as for picture quality... well you all put up with my crappy pics so fair is fair

 

[Gee64]

Hmmm. That sounds backwards.

If meals are broken down and available in 2-4 weeks and the minerals take months to become available, I'm not getting your logic.

When I say minerals I mean mineral dusts. I add green sand too but not much. Green sand is chunkier like rock phosphate so it takes longer, but SRP, guanos, glacial dusts, things like that break down fast as they are powdered already.

Meals are great if you still need proteins but if I need them I prefer them in teas so they won't hot compost with soil carbon. You can topdress meals too, just stop if it causes problems.

Once the plant finishes stretch it doesn't grow much but it requires a lot of minerals to photosynthesize enough to satisfy it's resin and terpene production.