1080w LED Inferno

Outdoors, plants can send roots down into the soil where it will be cooler. They can tap into moisture and facilitate the plants' transpiration ( a LOT of it). Most days even when the air is still will still have occasional air currents which help in the transpiration process and its inherent cooling affect. While the humidity might have been high at times, even a puddle on a 99% RH day will evaporate when it becomes hot enough. And even though the CO2 content of any given volume of the outdoors is less than a like volume grow room that has CO2 supplementation, that outdoors is not separated into grow rooms - the CO2 (along with everything else in the air) is pretty stable at that level because it is being constantly refreshed. The roots of a plant that is growing in decent soil are also going to have access to O2. Also, most areas don't start at 100°F the moment the sun rises but instead take a few hours or longer to get to that temperature (but a poorly-cooled grow can jump 20°F or more in an hour) so I would expect that there would be at least some growth (sic) even on the highest peak-temperature days.

Plants seem to be better able to adjust when their green parts are warmer than their white parts. When they have adequate amounts of CO2 - either through supplementation or via constant air-exchange. When their roots are given mad supersaturated dissolved-oxygen levels via the nutrient solution. When their is enough airflow to aid in transpiration.

Higher ambient temperatures make it more important.

But you know all of that, lol, so I guess it was a rhetorical question like, "Why did the chicken cross the road?" (Because he was f'king high:grinjoint:.)

And as you mentioned, choice of strains would play an important factor. A native strain or one bred for success in like conditions can oft times be more productive (and have higher "net potency") than the ones that are merely bred for highest potential yield and potency.

great post! +rep. Ive had plants grown in pots out in summer heat and they did just fine, 5gal pots. i try to make my room as close to the outdoor as possible.lol. tons of fresh air coming in from out side and getting sucked right out so everything stays fresh. just like out doors. and i made my hempy buckets to act like the ground out doors, little dry on top but underneath their O2 just like in the out side ground above the hard pan that holds the water under the out side dirt. I have a good friend thats a soil expert and he kinda ran me threw on how the typical type on soil is that seems to make plant thrive, thats what he does for a living testes different types of soils and stuff. and i made my DI buckets to try to mimic the mother nature's ground. my buckets have different layers of mixes just like the outside ground. more aerated mix on top then it gets moister as the roots go down until the have all the moister they want. i am not saying i did it right.lol, but i tried my best. mixing different lays or sunshine and perlite to mimic outside ground.

your right! most area dont start off at 100F* just like my grow room doest, its gets hooter as the sun rises and heats up the outside air. since i am drawing in fresh air from out doors its bringing in the heat from out side also.

allot of led growers are miss lead by sales people! some have told me the same BS. with leds you dont need to run ventilation because they run cool. well if you here this dont buy into their BS because they dont know too much about growing! you do need fresh CO2 and it has to be pulled away once it stale. Fresh CO2 is key to growing good buds. can you grow in a sealed room? yes, but dont expect any crazy yield are really healthy plants. its just a sales scam.

Ive done it before with a good strain with leds in the heat like this and i believe i can do it again, but better without the spider mites.lol.. high temps and spider mites is no joke, never seen something spread that fast and web things up the quick. worst time of my life. but a lesson learned about being clean. who know this grow good go to shit? one way to find out. if so their always out doors.
 
popping in to see how it is going...cute babes....might get a tad rough, but it will work....at least i'll always think it should have....see ya later, lavendar
 
Hey IrishBoy,
I`m in for the run.... Another lot of information I can see and learn by within another grow of yours....

Not sure if any of this means anything, But I think you are right about the exchange of air at all times and you feeding them Moisture will do the trick as long as they keep wet to some degree.....

My theory is that heat stress come from the Radiant heat HID throws off not from room temps. The HID Radiant heat is what drawls out all the moister from your plants and dry them out and burns them....That makes sense to me, But I don`t know ,I am just a New person here and in growing, trying to learn what I can...

But I will say yes it can be 100 Degs outside but where I live in the summer it gets HOT , but theres always alot of Humidity in the air and I think that helps keeping the plants with moisture, even though its HOT as the sweat pours of me in the Hot weather ,

So high humidity and HEat I don`t think is bad for the VEg. stage not sure about flowering,( maybe depends how ya can control the Humidity once in flower mode )...But maybe none of what I just said makes any sense LOL..

But I`m here and learning once again..Thanks Bro....!:nomo:
 
Hey IrishBoy,
I`m in for the run.... Another lot of information I can see and learn by within another grow of yours....

Not sure if any of this means anything, But I think you are right about the exchange of air at all times and you feeding them Moisture will do the trick as long as they keep wet to some degree.....

My theory is that heat stress come from the Radiant heat HID throws off not from room temps. The HID Radiant heat is what drawls out all the moister from your plants and dry them out and burns them....That makes sense to me, But I don`t know ,I am just a New person here and in growing, trying to learn what I can...

But I will say yes it can be 100 Degs outside but where I live in the summer it gets HOT , but theres always alot of Humidity in the air and I think that helps keeping the plants with moisture, even though its HOT as the sweat pours of me in the Hot weather ,

So high humidity and HEat I don`t think is bad for the VEg. stage not sure about flowering,( maybe depends how ya can control the Humidity once in flower mode )...But maybe none of what I just said makes any sense LOL..

But I`m here and learning once again..Thanks Bro....!:nomo:

hey good to see you here.

i have my DI pots in different layers or perlite to control the moisture and air to roots. the deeper the roots got the more moist it gets until they hit the res and they have all the food/water they can eat and drink. their is plenty of moister to keep them cool in these high temps but still allow them to breath.

What you said about the RH makes sense to me. the more moister in the air the less/slower its drawled from the plant, just like when were drying our buds. their would be a fine line on the RH% so you wouldn't get mold in flowering. kinda like when ur drying them also.

I truly believe if you apply these few things you can grow in any temps. A good strain, plenty of fresh air moving at all times, moist medium, a light with low Radiant heat and Silicon. Silicon is very important when growing in the conditions.

silicon benefits plants in the following ways: improved resistance to wilt, resistance to water stress (heat and drought), enhanced leaf presentation resulting in improved light interception, enhanced reproductive growth, and increased tolerance of excessive phosphorus, manganese, sodium and aluminum concentrations, zinc deficiencies and cold temperatures. Silicon, deposited in the cell walls, forms a protective layer reducing transpiration through the outer cells. Silicon deposits in the cell walls of xylem vessels prevent compression of the vessels under conditions of high transpiration caused by drought or heat stress. Temperatures much above 90°F cause plants to virtually cease their metabolic functions because water is lost through transpiration faster than it can be replaced via the plant's root system. This results in harmful increases in intracellular mineral concentrations that inhibit plant functions. Increased levels of silicon in cell walls reduce transpiration loss caused by higher temperatures thus allowing continued metabolic functions at higher temperatures. Plants wilt less, resist sunburn and are generally more tolerant of heat stresses. Cuttings and plugs are more tolerant of the stresses encountered during root formation and potting up as a result of decreased transpiration.
Silicon has also been shown to result in higher concentrations of chlorophyll per unit area of leaf tissue. This means that a plant is able to tolerate both lower and higher light levels by using more of the available light. Moreover, supplemental levels of soluble silicon have been shown to produce higher concentrations of the enzyme RUBP carboxylase in leaf tissue. This enzyme regulates the metabolism of carbon dioxide and enables the plant to make more efficient use of available levels of CO2.

Silicon deposition in the epidermal cells of plants act as a barrier against penetration of invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Following a fungal infection, greater deposits of silicon are found around the affected plant tissue showing that silicon is selectively accumulated at the site. Silicon is also deposited in the cell walls of roots where it acts as a barrier against invasion of the stele by parasites and pathogens. Tests conducted on cucumbers, melons and tomatoes determined that soluble silicon must be available to the plant during the period of infection by fungal spores. The silicon is deposited at the sites of infection to form stronger, harder cell walls to deter the fungus. Silicon also stimulates the production of polyphenolic compounds which form part of a plant's natural defenses against fungal infection and insect attack. Silicon is rapidly bound in leaf tissue and will be deposited in a non-translocatable form within 24 hours. Therefore a continuous source of soluble silicon is very important to combat pathogens. This can be from constant feeding in hydroponics or from retention in the growing medium with soils or soilless mixes.
In some plants, foliar applications appear to lead to even lower rates of disease probably because deposits of silicon compounds on the leaf surface promote physical barriers to the infection process. Foliar sprays of soluble silicon have also been shown to be effective for control of aphids and other sucking insects on many plants. Epidermal cell walls containing silicon deposits act as a mechanical barrier to the styles and mandibles of sucking and biting insects In addition to the silicate deposits in the leaves, the intracellular content of silicic acid also acts as an effective sap sucking inhibitor for many insects.
 
Awesome...... Im in. :popcorn:

Just wondering about growing in temps like this with the watering system you have, do you have a chiller or something on your reservoir or are the nutes temps going to be at ambient temp? Is there any benefits to cooling the nutes down before you turn on the pump? Could you just prefreeze some already mixed nutes into cubes and drop them into the reservoir just before turning the pump on?
 
Awesome...... Im in. :popcorn:
Just wondering about growing in temps like this with the watering system you have, do you have a chiller or something on your reservoir or are the nutes temps going to be at ambient temp? Is there any benefits to cooling the nutes down before you turn on the pump? Could you just prefreeze some already mixed nutes into cubes and drop them into the reservoir just before turning the pump on.

Welcome Maccar!

the only thing that worries me is getting root rot. I might by some Hygrozyme just to be safe. but that stuff is allot of money, but works great. i am still debating on that one?

I know the PH of your nute mix changes with the water temp. I learned that one from watering in the colder months and in the hotter months.

so I can see cooling the water down before feeding them a benefit and a few others. but i am not 100% sure on that one, this is my 1st hydro grow. I believe the sun shine mix i put in the DI buckets will insulate the roots and keep the res cooler. I have been throwing is a frozen water bottle into my mixing tank before i feed them to cool things down. i am not sure 100% if that helps or not but i couldn't see why it wouldn't? i dont think the roots like getting 90+F* water on them.lol
 
Welcome Maccar!

the only thing that worries me is getting root rot. I might by some Hygrozyme just to be safe. but that stuff is allot of money, but works great. i am still debating on that one?

I know the PH of your nute mix changes with the water temp. I learned that one from watering in the colder months and in the hotter months.

so I can see cooling the water down before feeding them a benefit and a few others. but i am not 100% sure on that one, this is my 1st hydro grow. I believe the sun shine mix i put in the DI buckets will insulate the roots and keep the res cooler. I have been throwing is a frozen water bottle into my mixing tank before i feed them to cool things down. i am not sure 100% if that helps or not but i couldn't see why it wouldn't? i dont think the roots like getting 90+F* water on them.lol

Yeah i remember reading on here recently about maintaining cooler root zone temperatures on hot grows. From memory the theory most of the posters was that root zone temperatures are much more critical than that of the plant zone. I couldnt tell you where i read it though! Theres just to much on this site!

Ill try dig it up. :reading420magazine:
 
Just found this......

High root zone temperatures often plague indoor growers running hydro systems. These systems are subject to rapid heating by intense HID lighting, which increases root zone temperatures, which decreases dissolved oxygen (DO) levels. Rapid plant growth, combined with low DO levels, can cause oxygen deprivation which in turn can result in infection by opportunistic pathogens such as pythium.

The key to maximum growth is to keep the air temperature at 75-80F, but the root zone at 68F or less. Note: the reservoir should be kept slightly cooler than the rootzone - irrigation and system heating will warm the water by the time it reaches the roots.

Optimum root growth occurs at 70-75F; however, destructive root diseases also grow and reproduce rapidly at these root temperatures. Maintaining nutrient temperatures at or under 68F maximizes root growth and DO, and inhibits pythium.

Hope it helps.....
 
Just found this......

High root zone temperatures often plague indoor growers running hydro systems. These systems are subject to rapid heating by intense HID lighting, which increases root zone temperatures, which decreases dissolved oxygen (DO) levels. Rapid plant growth, combined with low DO levels, can cause oxygen deprivation which in turn can result in infection by opportunistic pathogens such as pythium.

The key to maximum growth is to keep the air temperature at 75-80F, but the root zone at 68F or less. Note: the reservoir should be kept slightly cooler than the rootzone - irrigation and system heating will warm the water by the time it reaches the roots.

Optimum root growth occurs at 70-75F; however, destructive root diseases also grow and reproduce rapidly at these root temperatures. Maintaining nutrient temperatures at or under 68F maximizes root growth and DO, and inhibits pythium.

Hope it helps.....

very nice post!

another reaon why i am using Silicon. Silicon deposition in the plant's epidermal cell layer acts as a barrier against penetration of fungal
hyphae from powdery mildew, black spot, Pythium and Phytophthora, etc. Silicon is selectively
transported to the site of fungal infection and is utilized by the plant metabolically to combat the
growth of fungi.

Silicon is also deposited in the cell walls of roots where it acts as a barrier against invasion of the stele by parasites and pathogens.

I love this stuff it has so many benefits! I dont know why more people dont use it? But this does not mean i can let my guard down with high temps in my res. but i just dont see how i can keep my res cool when its built into the bottom of my bucket under all that soliless medium? all I can do if try to feed it cool nute mix and add stuff to prevent root problems and hope for the best. not too much i can do to keep the res cool. this grow has all the odds against me. very very poor environment conditions for growing right now. Thats why it will be amazing if i can pull this off and get good yield. I would be so amazed!!
 
Irish, If you wanna see what mites did to me, check out my grow, see if they did that shit to you bro.....NEVER want them again....although that Pythrethurem had them packing their undies.

Man you just gave me flash backs! Never ever want those little fu*kers again. Evil bastards. I used Pythrethurem and all it did was piss them off. they went nuts and webbed everything. I lost my grow to them! had to pull things and fight them bastards. nothing worked until i got a "No Pest Strip" up in my room. its been almost a year and haven't seen them again. in the back of my mind i am scared because this is around the time i got them last time. I always buy a fresh new No pest strip every grow now. i also have some Flora mite on hand ready to nuke those bi*ches if they come back. The thing about mites it what works for some wont work for others. they adapt to thing and it doest work anymore. They will also hibernate in the colder months in your room and come back when it gets warm again. I pray that's not the case with me and this grow. I will burn that room down. I hate them!!
 
Hey Irish, sorry I'm late. I'll get caught up.

Looks like you've got the wattage to do some serious growing. Good luck handling the heat issues, I know you've got some experience with that already, so you'll probably be fine.
Good stuff on silicon, I've got Silica Blast on my buy list.
Sittin' in.
 
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