Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Dajerm, I think it's looking pretty good myself considering you're only running 100 watts of lighting. You definitely want to upgrade that. Other than that it looks like you have your environment dialed in which in my opinion is the toughest part.


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Thanks for the reply!! I was thinking that led panel was perfect for my tiny grow cabinet. its only 18"x18" and I can't really get it much closer than about 10-12" from the top of canopy and the whole plant is only 34" tall. I dont know, it may be a bit small but with anything bigger I run into heat issues. But yes, I have been working pretty hard getting ready for some DBHBB!!! So close now!
 
I'd let that one go at least 2 weeks longer. Ignore the Amber triches, IMO. The flowers are not mature.

Thank you Doc Bud, Thats what I was thinking as well. Do you know or speculate any reason for the early amber? I don't usually check them that early but something about the way she looks made me do it. Anyway, I'm getting better every grow, getting all dialed in and getting ready for the good shit! I can't tell you how much I admire your grows and the work you do. Also the fact your willing to spend the time to help out people like me, Thank You so much!
 
Just wanted to leave these here for others to enjoy...

10 days in the jar.

Couldn't have done it without you all...

:thanks:
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Finding this conversation a little confusing.

I've always thought that some composting is normal in a worm bin. It's not just worm poo from feasting on fresh table scraps, is it? Do the worms not eat the partly composted feed?

And the whole "cooking" process. Thought we were composting the worm castings. Picture I had of the process is:

1. partial compost
2. Worms digest the partly composted goodies and excrete castings
3. Ewc mixed with promix and beneficial microbes, for final composting.

Am I misunderstanding?

Cheers! :peace::passitleft::reading420magazine:

It's been a while since I went over this....like two years. So thanks for asking.

Compost is naturally high in potassium, with a small amount of phosphorus, lots of digested organic matter and microbial activity. This is all well and good except that compost is also very low in calcium. If the soil doesn't call for potassium, adding compost will make High Brix impossible.

Pure earth worm castings are when the earthworms eat and digest all the organic matter they are feeding on and only their poop is left...little mucous covered pellets of nature's best fertilizer.

Compost is when microbial action and sometimes fungal action breaks down all the organic matter and we're left with various stages of digested material. Pathogens are often present and the nutrients in compost aren't nearly as available to the plants, plus EWC are much higher in humus than compost.....AND compost is far too high in Potassium while pure castings are not.

So with EWC, the worms digest the organic matter, while with composting, the material is digested by microbial action only.

Now, when this is all added to the Promix and mixed together with the amendment, the purpose of that is to:

1. Get calcium and phosphorus to form a battery in the soil
2. Get the myco to eat rocks and minerals....not organic matter so much like in the case of compost.
3. Allow the goodies in the Amendment to find little nooks and hiding places in the soil, only to be released with mycorhyza action from the roots.

We don't want our containers to be composting....we want them to be mineralized with myco being fed by the plant and the plant being fed by the myco.....not at all the same thing as microbial action breaking down celery, coffee grounds, kitchen scraps, lawn clippings, etc.

Compost is way overrated. Goofy hippy worship stuff to some. Me? I'd rather give the worms a standing O. They perform a service far more useful to us.
 
It's been a while since I went over this....like two years. So thanks for asking.

Compost is naturally high in potassium, with a small amount of phosphorus, lots of digested organic matter and microbial activity. This is all well and good except that compost is also very low in calcium. If the soil doesn't call for potassium, adding compost will make High Brix impossible.

Pure earth worm castings are when the earthworms eat and digest all the organic matter they are feeding on and only their poop is left...little mucous covered pellets of nature's best fertilizer.

Compost is when microbial action and sometimes fungal action breaks down all the organic matter and we're left with various stages of digested material. Pathogens are often present and the nutrients in compost aren't nearly as available to the plants, plus EWC are much higher in humus than compost.....AND compost is far too high in Potassium while pure castings are not.

So with EWC, the worms digest the organic matter, while with composting, the material is digested by microbial action only.

Now, when this is all added to the Promix and mixed together with the amendment, the purpose of that is to:

1. Get calcium and phosphorus to form a battery in the soil
2. Get the myco to eat rocks and minerals....not organic matter so much like in the case of compost.
3. Allow the goodies in the Amendment to find little nooks and hiding places in the soil, only to be released with mycorhyza action from the roots.

We don't want our containers to be composting....we want them to be mineralized with myco being fed by the plant and the plant being fed by the myco.....not at all the same thing as microbial action breaking down celery, coffee grounds, kitchen scraps, lawn clippings, etc.

Compost is way overrated. Goofy hippy worship stuff to some. Me? I'd rather give the worms a standing O. They perform a service far more useful to us.


Interesting, thank you. :thanks:

I wonder if any of your kit users are playing with active worm populations through the grow cycle.

Still confused about what's happening during the cooking process. It sure seems to behave a lot like an active compost, just going by the rapid decomposition of roots, stem, and trim material added to a well established soil bin. Are you saying that kit soil goes into compost mode only when plant material is added to the bin?

Also, if not from worm castings, where are the microbes getting the energy needed to break down the minerals, while the soil is cooking and before the crop and microrhyzal associations are established?

Regarding the composition of compost, I would have thought that to be dependent, at least in part, on the composition of material added to the compost bin.

Thanks again! :peace::passitleft:
 
Interesting, thank you. :thanks:

I wonder if any of your kit users are playing with active worm populations through the grow cycle.

Still confused about what's happening during the cooking process. It sure seems to behave a lot like an active compost, just going by the rapid decomposition of roots, stem, and trim material added to a well established soil bin. Are you saying that kit soil goes into compost mode only when plant material is added to the bin?

Also, if not from worm castings, where are the microbes getting the energy needed to break down the minerals, while the soil is cooking and before the crop and microrhyzal associations are established?

Regarding the composition of compost, I would have thought that to be dependent, at least in part, on the composition of material added to the compost bin.

Thanks again! :peace::passitleft:

Yes, there is some composting occuring during the cooking....but very little of it is due to composting of organic matter, especially on the first run. Sure, there's some organic material in the Amendment, but nothing like a pile of leaves, kitchen scraps, paper, etc. Nothing even close.

Mostly what is happening with the cooking process is the formation of a battery with phosphorus and calcium and other compounds associated with it.

The microbial populations used in the kit have been born and bred eating rocks....not organic matter, although they'll eat the latter too if they can. As for the energy required for this....remember the battery thing? Also, the Amendment has some organic fertilizer in it.

As far as the composition of compost goes, you're not alone. Lot's of people have specious ideas about compost. Some people think you can't add enough, that the secret to a good garden is compost, etc. The fact of the matter is that it's absolutely loaded with potassium, which means it has a limited application for gardening, despite the common knowledge.

Worms do a much better job breaking down organic material than bacteria found in compost piles.
 
Yes, there is some composting occuring during the cooking....but very little of it is due to composting of organic matter, especially on the first run. Sure, there's some organic material in the Amendment, but nothing like a pile of leaves, kitchen scraps, paper, etc. Nothing even close.

Mostly what is happening with the cooking process is the formation of a battery with phosphorus and calcium and other compounds associated with it.

The microbial populations used in the kit have been born and bred eating rocks....not organic matter, although they'll eat the latter too if they can. As for the energy required for this....remember the battery thing? Also, the Amendment has some organic fertilizer in it.

As far as the composition of compost goes, you're not alone. Lot's of people have specious ideas about compost. Some people think you can't add enough, that the secret to a good garden is compost, etc. The fact of the matter is that it's absolutely loaded with potassium, which means it has a limited application for gardening, despite the common knowledge.

Worms do a much better job breaking down organic material than bacteria found in compost piles.
So adding worms to the kit isn't beneficial because what is being broken down is more minerals than organic matter? I starting to understand I think. Or maybe I'm way off.

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So adding worms to the kit isn't beneficial because what is being broken down is more minerals than organic matter? I starting to understand I think. Or maybe I'm way off.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using 420 Magazine Mobile App

Adding worms....well, if you grew outdoors in the dirt there'd be lots of worms. Raised beds also seem to get 'em.

I don't think there's a problem having worms in small containers either....but why? The soil is already right where we want it. It's like we have the soil AFTER the worms are done with it, not during or before.

Despite my poor understanding of composting and lack of live worms (usually, I've had a few) the plants still manage to grow. I'll take some pics today.
 
Adding worms....well, if you grew outdoors in the dirt there'd be lots of worms. Raised beds also seem to get 'em.

I don't think there's a problem having worms in small containers either....but why? The soil is already right where we want it. It's like we have the soil AFTER the worms are done with it, not during or before.

Despite my poor understanding of composting and lack of live worms (usually, I've had a few) the plants still manage to grow. I'll take some pics today.
I have tons of worms in the soil in my yard that is mostly shaded. I was taking one days and noticed a few cone to the surface raked some more and there were dozens. No idea how good that soil is but it have tons of worms in it.

I was going to put some worms in the cooking soil but I'm not trying to change things my first couple of cycles will be by the book with the kit.

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just flipped today....is it too late to add blood meal?

girls are raging in 15's, gonna finish between 5'-6'

shameless bump, but also, the room is 3 strains:

master kush
blue dream
sour tangie (sour diesel x tangie)

would you suggest adding teh bloodmeal to one while omitting the others?

how much, its gonna go in the top as we already upcanned for final
 
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