1st time grower

side branching looking great on that bushy plant. I still think you will be much happier if you take off that top node. You will have an almost flat topped canopy of colas that way. You still will be fine if you don't do it so don't let me bully you lol.
 
Id like to put these 2 plants, 6 weeks old now, into bloom stage by changing the lights to 12/12....for a couple of reason if i can. I dont mind less yield.
Its Jan and cold. Im having a VERY hard time keeping temps much above 70 or so, and usually around the high 60s at times. If I turn up the heat I get low humidity due to forced air heating. If I turn the humidifier on, the plant droops because its taking more cold air from below..lowering the temp again.
Its a fight between the two.
If I go into blooming stage, thatd be around 1.5-2 months, which puts me at April for a new grow..with much better stable temps I can control. But, I still dont know sex yet...so this could all for nothing at this point.
Thoughts?
 
Let's see the plants again.
Remember a few things. If you have a hard time keeping heat up it will be very hard on 12 hours light instead of 18. So we have to fix your heat issue. What I would do for the forced air heater is have a bucket right in front of the heater exhaust. Hang a towel into the bucket which is full of water. The towel will stay wet and the heat will evaporate the water humidifying the room.

Your plants are almost ready maturity wise. You can flower them for sure. I would take clones from them before flowering.
 
The heat vent is up near the ceiling to the left about 3.5 feet above the top of the tallest plant blowing the opposite direction..but still. I dont think id have a way to hang a bucket of water there. I could raise the humidifier a few feet by putting it on top of the washing machine..lol. I turned off the humidifier as soon as I saw the leaves drooping. I can put trays of water, 9 inches by 6 inches by 1.5 inches deep, full of water near the plants on the shelf.
That temp/hum device I ordered should be here Monday sometime. I read that it gives highs and lows for the day..so Ill know what happens when the lights go out.
Ill ppost new pics in a few..I just took them yesterday
 
All new, just taken.
#2. The bushy one that never has had any problems
1_223.JPG


#1 with some humidity problems and some drooping leaves.
1_221.JPG

Both
jan_20_5.JPG
 
I run 80 degrees in flower but yes they do like lower humidity late flower. Still higher temp though. The low humidity is to prevent bud rot.
 
Well...I went ahead and changed the timer on the lights to 12/12.
Its 20 degrees warmer today and I can SEE a big change in my plants. When its 20 out, my furnace runs every 20 minutes. Today it only runs every hour or so. Big difference. I think the probs Im experiencing are due to lack of consistency in heat, humidity.
I will keep the temps up as best I can and will hang a water dush and towel of some sort for humiity. I looked at my set-up..I have a way to put it there by the heat vent that would work.


Q: Have you heard of th DIY CO2 maker? Gallon jug, sugar and yeast. ?
 
I have heard of it but not tried it. I am not sure how well they work or what ppm co2 they can bring things to. Your grow room would have to be sealed to have a good effect.
 
Jamesnns said:
Well...I went ahead and changed the timer on the lights to 12/12.
Its 20 degrees warmer today and I can SEE a big change in my plants. When its 20 out, my furnace runs every 20 minutes. Today it only runs every hour or so. Big difference. I think the probs Im experiencing are due to lack of consistency in heat, humidity.
I will keep the temps up as best I can and will hang a water dush and towel of some sort for humiity. I looked at my set-up..I have a way to put it there by the heat vent that would work.


Q: Have you heard of th DIY CO2 maker? Gallon jug, sugar and yeast. ?
Click to expand...

your environment is most important , just say'n :)
 
Temp is 79-80 degrees, humidity is 39% (humidifier is on max now, I expect that to rise)

From a distance, it doesnt look bad....but
photo679.JPG

Heres the problems now.
photo_5226.JPG

photo_4336.JPG

photo_3431.JPG

photo_2522.JPG

photo_1593.JPG

What is going on?
The short bushy plant is doing great.
 
looks like a bit of a micronutrient deficiency starting up. What pH are you adjusting fluids to?
 
Heres a major problem..if this is a nute prob..as I stated in my first post, these are in MG soil. I dont think I can flush it without causing even more problems.
Ugh......
 
ok, problem solved... no need to stress.

There are two deficiencies working together here. The yellowing around the edges is showing a need for calcium... the dead spots at the ends of the leaves and in the middle, and seems to be progressing up the plant, that is magnesium.

Almost everyone needs to supplement magnesium. A good bit comes in via tap water for most of us, but you are supplying pure water. There is nothing the plant can use in that. Get some calmag... there are 3 or 4 variations of it out there, and all of them will work for you. Start supplying magnesium and calcium via this supplement, and I think your problem will stop progressing. The damaged leaves will NOT recover fully... the damaged areas are gone. The supplements will stop the progression of this problem however... the sooner the better.

Also, this is when being able to adjust to the proper pH becomes important. Up until now, the plant's needs were easy to accomplish, nitrogen is available across a huge range of pH... but now the plant is developing more mature needs, and you are going to need to dial this in a bit. You are not getting magnesium and probably calcium in the amounts that your plant now needs. It is going to be very important now to adjust your pH to 6.5 every time you apply fluids so that you can pick them up.
 
I ve got the Clmag coming too...by Monday...

I JUST watered. Any sooner with the Ph and Clmag Ill ned up witgh an over watered plant again..? Then if i wait..the problem gets worse. ?
I put thse into 12/12 3 days ago..should I reverse?
 

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