Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

[Hash Hound]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

great looking buds Doc.

Those small plants near the end of the pics, are they from seed?

Do you still start seeds from 12/12?

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

great looking buds Doc.

Those small plants near the end of the pics, are they from seed?

Do you still start seeds from 12/12?

Yep, those little ones are some Lemon Thai seeds. I started them on 16/8, which is where I'm running my veg room for a few weeks now. It's helping me get some nice open structure on the lanky plants, like the Jack. The lowermost buds on that thing were the size of golfballs and very dense, sticky and stinky.

I'm hoping to get this one purple pheno on those Thai seeds and propagate it. It's fantastic smoke and a delicious lemonyblueberry type of smell.

Here's something worth saying: I mixed 1 cup of Root Zone with each gallon of soil for those seeds, watered in with Transplant per the instructions. 10 out of 10 germed, and no obvious male vigor stands out. The temps and rH were optimal for females and they're under nice bright light. We shall see!

 

[ILuvJuicyLucy]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I've been waiting patiently for you to run that Lemon Thai again Doc! I'm very excited to see it grown High Brix style.

 

[budrunner]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

hope you dont mind found some interesting reading what are your thoughts on this

In hydroponics, standard quantities of NH4+ added to nutrient solutions for soilless culture are between 5 and 10 % of the total N supply and seldom will exceed 15 %. For rose it tends to 25 % during the vegetative stage, whilst for melon it tends to 0 % during fruit development, for example. The tuning of the NH4+ addition merely occurs during crop growth in relation with the pH development in the root environment. Addition of NH4+ lowers the pH in the root environment, because of an activation of the cation (NH4+) uptake and a reduction of the anion (NO3-) uptake. When NH4+ is taken up, the plant releases H+ in order to maintain the plant’s electrical neutrality, which causes a lower pH in the root environment. Optimum pH levels in the substrate solutions range from 5 to 6 for almost all crops.


Addition of NH4+ as a replacement of NO3- in substrate systems can reduce the uptake of other cations, like K+, Ca2+ and Mg2+, which can be explained by cation competition of NH4+ and these cations. The proportion of these effects depends of different factors like crop, growing conditions and the adjustments made in the ionic balance of the nutrients. Therefore, a careful use of NH4+ is recommended for crops which are sensitive to Ca deficiency. This is especially true when such crops are grown under climatic conditions that reduce the Ca transport to fruits. Good examples of this are the production of tomato and sweet pepper under dry and hot conditions. Both crops are sensitive to blossom-end rot, caused by Ca deficiency in the fruit, which is stimulated by a hot and dry climate. Under such conditions every reduction in Ca uptake becomes dangerous and thus, the use of NH4+ too

Advantages of nitrate over ammonium-containing fertilisers



Nitrates are the preferred nitrogen source:

Non-volatile: unlike ammonium, nitrate is non-volatile, so there is no need to incorporate it in the soil when applied by top- or side dressing, which makes it a convenient source for application.
Mobile in the soil - direct uptake by the plant, highest efficiency.
Nitrates synergistically promote the uptake of cations, such as K, Ca and Mg, while ammonium competes for the uptake with these cations.
Nitrates can be readily absorbed by the plant and do not need to undergo any further conversion, as is the case with urea and ammonium, before plant uptake.
No acidification of the soil if all the nitrogen is applied as nitrate-nitrogen.
Nitrates limit the uptake of harmful elements, such as chloride, into large quantities.
The conversion of nitrates to amino acids occurs in the leaf. This process is fuelled by solar energy, which makes it an energy-efficient process. Ammonium has to be converted into organic N compounds in the roots. This process is fuelled by carbohydrates, which are at the expense of other plant life processes, such as plant growth and fruit fill.

 

[Curso]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc that Jack is so bad ass!!!! Everything pictured is again incredible. I too am looking forward to the lemon thai. I think you have a Potm winner in that Jack.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

hope you dont mind found some interesting reading what are your thoughts on this

In hydroponics, standard quantities of NH4+ added to nutrient solutions for soilless culture are between 5 and 10 % of the total N supply and seldom will exceed 15 %. For rose it tends to 25 % during the vegetative stage, whilst for melon it tends to 0 % during fruit development, for example. The tuning of the NH4+ addition merely occurs during crop growth in relation with the pH development in the root environment. Addition of NH4+ lowers the pH in the root environment, because of an activation of the cation (NH4+) uptake and a reduction of the anion (NO3-) uptake. When NH4+ is taken up, the plant releases H+ in order to maintain the plant’s electrical neutrality, which causes a lower pH in the root environment. Optimum pH levels in the substrate solutions range from 5 to 6 for almost all crops.


Addition of NH4+ as a replacement of NO3- in substrate systems can reduce the uptake of other cations, like K+, Ca2+ and Mg2+, which can be explained by cation competition of NH4+ and these cations. The proportion of these effects depends of different factors like crop, growing conditions and the adjustments made in the ionic balance of the nutrients. Therefore, a careful use of NH4+ is recommended for crops which are sensitive to Ca deficiency. This is especially true when such crops are grown under climatic conditions that reduce the Ca transport to fruits. Good examples of this are the production of tomato and sweet pepper under dry and hot conditions. Both crops are sensitive to blossom-end rot, caused by Ca deficiency in the fruit, which is stimulated by a hot and dry climate. Under such conditions every reduction in Ca uptake becomes dangerous and thus, the use of NH4+ too

Advantages of nitrate over ammonium-containing fertilisers



Nitrates are the preferred nitrogen source:

Non-volatile: unlike ammonium, nitrate is non-volatile, so there is no need to incorporate it in the soil when applied by top- or side dressing, which makes it a convenient source for application.
Mobile in the soil - direct uptake by the plant, highest efficiency.
Nitrates synergistically promote the uptake of cations, such as K, Ca and Mg, while ammonium competes for the uptake with these cations.
Nitrates can be readily absorbed by the plant and do not need to undergo any further conversion, as is the case with urea and ammonium, before plant uptake.
No acidification of the soil if all the nitrogen is applied as nitrate-nitrogen.
Nitrates limit the uptake of harmful elements, such as chloride, into large quantities.
The conversion of nitrates to amino acids occurs in the leaf. This process is fuelled by solar energy, which makes it an energy-efficient process. Ammonium has to be converted into organic N compounds in the roots. This process is fuelled by carbohydrates, which are at the expense of other plant life processes, such as plant growth and fruit fill.

My thoughts are:

Yep.....yep. Yep.......yep......uh huh.
That's true information, but they're missing some info. When the soil is in balance and the biota are thriving, AND there's ample calcium, using a cationic drench (which has NH4) will stimulate reproductive growth.

A drench like this much be applied at the proper time, in the proper amounts. That's exactly what I'm working on as we speak...when is the best time to apply this drench?

All the mineral and ion interactions in that article you posted is spot on.....so we use to to our benefit. As for calcium, my soil is LOADED with calcium as are the foliar sprays.

Just remember, that article is looking at intereactions in plant tissue and sterile mediums. It's much different in a properly designed soil. But this is the type of science that, when applied properly, will be the difference between good and great.

 

[Xlr8]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Great journal Doc!

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Great journal Doc!

Thanks! The feeling is mutual regarding yours!

 

[BudTester420]

Hey Doc I just ordered my pro mix and it should be here in a few weeks, I was wondering when your second version of your kit will be available? I'm in no rush by any means just trying to plan stuff out ahead of time.

Thanks.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc I just ordered my pro mix and it should be here in a few weeks, I was wondering when your second version of your kit will be available? I'm in no rush by any means just trying to plan stuff out ahead of time.

Thanks.

I won't be packaging any changes until I do a final weight on the harvest I just finished AND the harvest I'll do in 2 or 3 weeks. Those were each given the cationic drench at different times, with very different results. I need to make sense of it all before I put it in the kit.

I don't want my customers experimenting for me.....I want them to be totally stoked and have confidence that if they follow directions, they'll hit a homerun first time.

But don't worry, the current version of the kit has still beaten everything so far.....except I have a very positive feeling about the upcoming harvest. The Lemon Paki that turned orange:

and 7 just like it were harvested, washed and are hanging. The buds are small, with no pistils, just swollen calyx's. The resin is ridiculous, I've never seen anything like it, but the yield doesn't look good.

So, let me work out the kinks so I can be confident that you'll exceed expectations. The current kit will deliver the goods and it may turn out that I stick with it in the end.

 

[BudTester420]

Excellent! I didn't want to be caught in the middle of two kits but like you said its better for you to test then others. I'm super stoked about your kit I mean I have never seen bud that looks as good as yours, I mean that green in the paki looks amazing I can't wait to see how it finishes. Keep up the good work!

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Excellent! I didn't want to be caught in the middle of two kits but like you said its better for you to test then others. I'm super stoked about your kit I mean I have never seen bud that looks as good as yours, I mean that green in the paki looks amazing I can't wait to see how it finishes. Keep up the good work!

Thanks bro. I'm just beginning to get the hang of this stuff. The Jack I've got going right now is pretty much the all time best I've grown to date. I'll get pics in a couple days. Heavy yield too. So for that strain, the cationic drench in week 4 of bloom is about right. I'll get the Lemon pakis in week 5 this time so I'll get an idea of how it works later on in bloom, during the ripening phase.

It's amazing how much effect one feeding can have in this soil.

Anyways, once I'm comfortable with adding something not recommended by pHD's in crop science and all kinds of biological gardens, I'll put it in the kit! In other words, there's not much chance of doing better than their recommendations.

But there are lot's of other avenues to explore once high brix is happening, and different ingredients can get you there as well, as long as you're damn clever.

I'm high. Too many words already.............

 

[Hash Hound]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

2 Q's for you Doc;

first on the kit and watering.

I know the foliar is approx. every other day, but if watering is needed, should it be done the same days as a foliar, or try to do on separate days, or doesn't matter?

second on drying.

when buds are super thick, do you still just hang them to dry, or do you strip them off the stem and put on a screen? I like to hang them, my friend likes to strip them.

one like this...she weighed in at 72g wet,

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

2 Q's for you Doc;

first on the kit and watering.

I know the foliar is approx. every other day, but if watering is needed, should it be done the same days as a foliar, or try to do on separate days, or doesn't matter?

second on drying.

when buds are super thick, do you still just hang them to dry, or do you strip them off the stem and put on a screen? I like to hang them, my friend likes to strip them.

one like this...she weighed in at 72g wet,

Nice bud!

hang or strip? I prefer hang, but I'm not sure how much it matters.

However, in theory a large one like that one you have might take a while to dry after washing it...so maybe trim that one up into individual buds after washing.

Watering: I doesn't matter when you do it.....but at least once or twice I give them a good soaking in bloom and I'll spray at the same time, mostly trying to conserve time.

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Picture day!

Newly washed and just dried Jack Herer. It's the best weed I've ever grown. Potent, just over 5oz dried from a single plant, and by far the best flavor of anything I've grown to date. ( I haven't trimmed up the newly washed and hung Lemon Paki yet.....so Jack's got some competition in a few days)

Random Garden shots.

 

[koffeekush]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Newly washed and just dried Jack Herer. It's the best weed I've ever grown. Potent, just over 5oz dried from a single plant, and by far the best flavor of anything I've grown to date. ( I haven't trimmed up the newly washed and hung Lemon Paki yet.....so Jack's got some competition in a few days)

What are you doing when you "wash" it? Do you water cure your buds?

 

[CaneyeBus]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Lovely Bud Porn Doc!

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

What are you doing when you "wash" it? Do you water cure your buds?

Good question! Here's what I do:

1. take off all fan leaves and really large sugar leaves.
2. Immerse partially trimmed buds in solution of 1 cup lemon juice and 2 cups baking soda in 5 gallons of water. Agitate for 30 seconds.
3. Immerse in second bucket filled with RO and agitate for 30 seconds
4. Immerse in third bucket of RO and agitate for 30 seconds
5. shake off as much water as possible, hang as usual and dry.

At the end of the drying cycle, trim off the dried up leaves that remain on the buds, being careful to keep them for the hash bag.

The buds come out so dang clean, with the best flavor I've had so far. They're super plump and stinky when you hang them, and they burn super clean.

That's what I'm doing.

Lovely Bud Porn Doc!

Thanks bro! I sure have fun doing this.

 

[shottafire]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Good question! Here's what I do:

1. take off all fan leaves and really large sugar leaves.
2. Immerse partially trimmed buds in solution of 1 cup lemon juice and 2 cups baking soda in 5 gallons of water. Agitate for 30 seconds.
3. Immerse in second bucket filled with RO and agitate for 30 seconds
4. Immerse in third bucket of RO and agitate for 30 seconds
5. shake off as much water as possible, hang as usual and dry.

At the end of the drying cycle, trim off the dried up leaves that remain on the buds, being careful to keep them for the hash bag.

The buds come out so dang clean, with the best flavor I've had so far. They're super plump and stinky when you hang them, and they burn super clean.

That's what I'm doing.



Thanks bro! I sure have fun doing this.

Plants look great doc?

Very cool info on washing the buds.. Do you do this to all plants harvested?

 

[Doc Bud]

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Plants look great doc?

Very cool info on washing the buds.. Do you do this to all plants harvested?

I do now. I've done a couple pounds this way and I'm never going back.

My methods utilize a great deal of stinky foliar sprays. Unwashed, the buds still taste great, but I could detect something not quite right towards the second half of a joint, or in a dry-hit pipe.

Not anymore! They taste smooth....

Yesterday, a collective owner was over begging, and I trimmed up an almost dry nug of Lemon Paki and handed him a bubbler and lighter.

Even not fully dry, let alone cured, he went ape. Said it was the first time he could really taste "the whole bud." I know what he means, although I hadn't quite thought of it that way.

You get flavors you never tasted before, because the smoke has zero harshness and very little smokey taste. We decided that Jack tastes like watermelon....yep, but both of us agreed it tasted like a super sweet watermelon.

The Herijuana---only drying for 2 days----tasted like hazlenut and mint. No grass clippings at all, and it's not dry.

Lemon Paki: lemon/coconut surfboard resin....

Each strain is so distinct, I'm certain I could pick them out in a blind taste test....no problem.