Huge problem in my tent - Need advice

[Major PITA]

No problem Major. Getting differing opinions is the nature of the FAQ's and personally I always post just to give my 2c to the mix, never thinking everything I say must be always right- that would be way too much responsibility.
It's just been my experience that they don't last when dry, and (almost) everything I've read tells me to keep ph probes wet. All the cheap ph pens I used to buy came with a cap designed to store solution in them to keep the probe wet. It says on my Bluelab meter- 'if it dries, it dies'.
Regardless of the wet/dry conditions- a ph tester should last more than a month before screwing up. Should check the calibration though.

Major, do you think this soil mix he is using would be affected by feeding with a poor ph? Isn't soil somewhat immune to ph swings?

Good question - and I have no idea. I've never used Roots 707 (or coco). I read a little about it and it could be anywhere for PH. It doesn't mention lime or other PH buffer. I don't like that it is low porosity/high water retention. That sounds like the opposite of what we want.

 

[Dwight Monk]

Good question - and I have no idea. I've never used Roots 707 (or coco). I read a little about it and it could be anywhere for PH. It doesn't mention lime or other PH buffer. I don't like that it is low porosity/high water retention. That sounds like the opposite of what we want.

Off the Roots 707 website:

DO I NEED TO PH MY NUTRIENTS? IF SO, WHAT PH SHOULD I MAKE MY NUTRIENTS?
Our heavy organic soils have a buffering capacity, to which you can add nutrients (according to our “feeding schedules”) without adjusting the pH. The buffering capacity of the soil will regulate the pH of the soil solution, so that necessary micro and macro nutrients will become available. If you prefer to have more control over the pH of your solution, we recommend adjusting the pH to 5.8-6.3. When in doubt... err on the side of acidic. Too acidic is much easier for most plants to deal with than too basic(pH over 7). Mixing our Roots Organics fertilizer for 24 hours will help raise the pH naturally. In hydroponics settings, the Soul line is designed to remain stable at an ideal pH of 6.0. Again, circulation and aeration is key.

For whatever that worth lol

 

[Weaselcracker]

Sounds like running a lower ph might be a good idea.

 

[Weaselcracker]

I got curious because the pH range (5.8-6.2) listed on the post by by urbanmonk is a hydro range, which makes me think the 707 isn't really soil. So I went and looked at their website and it's basically a peat moss and coco concoction mixed with a little bit of compost and other supplements. Not sure of the ph buffering qualities but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.

I am growing using sunshine mix which is basically peat moss. It uses the same Hydro range, 5.8 -6.2. I've been doing some experiments for the last month running one clone at 6.2 and another clone at 5.2 - just to see the difference. The results are posted here. The Hexapus's Garden. Not sure if that link to the post is working properly but if you have to scroll down its post 1018


The gist of it though- The plant at 6.2 is quite unhealthy and growing very slowly with a lot of leaf curling. The plant on the diet of 5.2 pH is kicking ass. This tells me that the low-end of the ph spectrum is definitely preferable.
My experiment is on vegging plants. During flower is when the plant gets much more susceptible to problems and I'm sure the high ph one would show even worse symptoms.

 

[Dwight Monk]

OK I got curious because the pH range (5.8-6.2) listed on the post by by urbanmonk is a hydro range, which makes me think the 707 isn't really soil. So I went and looked at their website and it's basically a peat moss and coco concoction mixed with a little bit of compost and other supplements. Not sure of the ph buffering qualities but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.

Even if I was making high tech magic soil not sure I would make that claim, even if it took care of itself w/o testing PH, as that just asking for annoyed customers IMHO.

 

[Weaselcracker]

Well- 'real soil' doesn't generally need any pH monitoring at all. This 707 stuff sounds more like soilless that's been jazzed up a little. Nothing wrong with that but it needs to be treated differently than soil. Just the fact that it's using a hydro ph range kinda says its not soil.

 

[AngryBird]

HI
I am glad my idea of cause was the correct and you got help from more experienced growers Good luck

 

[Dwight Monk]

Well- 'real soil' doesn't generally need any pH monitoring at all. This 707 stuff sounds more like soilless that's been jazzed up a little. Nothing wrong with that but it needs to be treated differently than soil. Just the fact that it's using a hydro ph range kinda says its not soil.

Maybe I read into their statement on website wrong, to me it saying you can use in example: well water 7.0 PH or filtered water 5.7 PH with added nutrients and the soil will buffer itself so you don't need to worry about PH.

 

[Weaselcracker]

Yes you're right. Not having used I can't say whether that's true or not.

 

[SCROG IT]

Lots of great info on here guys, much appreciated. Ive used roots 707 for going on 6 years now, never had any issues like this. Guess at this point all i can really do is let the flush dry out a bit and feed em my bloom nutes which is GH bloom, sweet , cal-mag, and MOAB. Hopefully they will pull out of it and make it till harvest.

 

[Weaselcracker]

Well keep us posted. Hope you solve the mystery.

 

[SCROG IT]

Will do, here is a pic of some mothers i started recently. Under a t5 in my garage

Same roots 707, ph the water with the same pen... only difference these getting light veg nutes.

 

[SCROG IT]

I know this is info that should have been already posted , work alot and posted this in some what of a panic