- Thread starter
- #101
Intelligent gro: How to get a supplier to fix their product?
- Thread starter Squeeg
- Start date
Nope. He may be waiting for parts from China ...
But I think he just blew me off. My understanding is that he's abandoning the whole thing, and opening a vape bar instead.
Wizgrow bought directly from CTLite and was able to get parts from them when his failed. If necessary, I can always do that. Meanwhile, I have 5 good modules, and I'll just turn them down to 80% power and hope for the best. I'll probably look into a beefier power cord, too. Even 400 watts is too much for 18 gauge.
PrimalUrge
New Member
That's a real shame man, sorry you had to go through that bs.
- Thread starter
- #104
Please excuse my stupidity here, but I've been trying to wrap my head around the term "cobs", and have been winging it whenever I see it. Can anybody out there help my out with this?
As for Jummejum's question, you can take it to my thread, but I would need a lot more info as to what you have in mind, and what the 10W LED you have in mind. I can tell you this much, I don't believe an all white led light is a good idea, but I could be wrong. I'd want a good look at the spec sheet, but all the white LED's I've looked at are not full spectrum, and weak in the far red's. Then I could be wrong as they keep changing things all the time. Hiker is right about getting those drivers pre made unless you know how to build a good power supply.
As for Jummejum's question, you can take it to my thread, but I would need a lot more info as to what you have in mind, and what the 10W LED you have in mind. I can tell you this much, I don't believe an all white led light is a good idea, but I could be wrong. I'd want a good look at the spec sheet, but all the white LED's I've looked at are not full spectrum, and weak in the far red's. Then I could be wrong as they keep changing things all the time. Hiker is right about getting those drivers pre made unless you know how to build a good power supply.
- Thread starter
- #106
The "cob" is the center cluster of led. If you look at the design of the lights, there's a small array of lights north, south, east and west. They are all 3w or 5w LEDs. The center is the big one. It's just a 1.25x1.25 inch board with a whack load of diodes. 20 or 25 if I remember correctly. There's a video on YouTube that shows you how to change the cob. Just found it yesterday.
COB = Chip on Board ... ?
Sumpin "On Board"
21 x 3 watters = 63 watts each. The COB design has some distinct advantages - source mixing of the spectra and more effective lensing - but low heat isn't one of them.
[Edit] Interestingly enough, one of 420's sponsors uses the opposite approach. Smart Grow uses many 0.3? watt diodes across much more area. They also are developing phosphor tech - more efficiency. Very interesting stuff!
Check 'em out.
Sumpin "On Board"
21 x 3 watters = 63 watts each. The COB design has some distinct advantages - source mixing of the spectra and more effective lensing - but low heat isn't one of them.
[Edit] Interestingly enough, one of 420's sponsors uses the opposite approach. Smart Grow uses many 0.3? watt diodes across much more area. They also are developing phosphor tech - more efficiency. Very interesting stuff!
Check 'em out.
- Thread starter
- #108
- Thread starter
- #109
Chip On Board, in other words a string of LED's driven by one driver. I would have called it a line. I figured it was something like that. I have heard the turn tossed around, and in some cases incorrectly so I was confused. I still have yet to see a LED system, all I've seen is pictures of some of them. This by no means is saying I don't have a handle of how these things work, just that I have not seen a manufactured unit from anybody up close and personal. Only the one I made.
White LEDs are wasteful. One of the big advantages of LED lighting is providing specific wavelengths.
I do prefer a couple in the panel, but they are for the grower, no so much the plants.
Well Hiker, I know you are right about the white LEDs for the most part, and this is just opinion, but I think the whites do more than just give the user more to see. I would not have bothered to use them if I didn't think they were doing something for me. I believe the whites are covering a lot of the minor colors that would have taken a bunch more LED's to cover. For instance, I would not waste money putting yellow LED's, but I hear plants use a small amount of it. So I think of the whites like minor nutes they don't do much, but if you don't have them are you missing something. Keep the whites, they are doing no harm. I would not spend money on an all white LED system, but in the blend it should be good.
I lost another module overnight ... 
What a piece of crap.
What a piece of crap.
wizgrow
New Member
I lost another module overnight ...
What a piece of crap.
Damn bro.......this shit is starting to concern me. I'm still solid since all the replacements but........Damn!
I also just starting using GLR to fill my SCROG (moved the 8x 180w' s into the 4x8 for much more light) and found out neither of my controllers (version 3.16) hold the settings during power off and go directly to sunny
If it's not one thing.......it's another.....
PrimalUrge
New Member
I lost another module overnight ...
What a piece of crap.
. If only 420 cared as much as the members do. Sorry bro.- Thread starter
- #117
newoldguy
Well-Known Member
Hard to think that someone didn't figure out (the manf) that running lots of current needs a larger power cord.
That isn't anywhere near rocket science.
That isn't anywhere near rocket science.
- Thread starter
- #119
wizgrow
New Member
Hmmmmmm....... I am running a bit warm now at peaks of 85.....maybe dumping the daisy chain and more direct power will help out a bit - thx
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