- Thread starter
- #621
Will your light be air cooled? Is your closet properly ventilated? If so, stick a 1000 in there.
Low Watts - High Yield - Let's Smash the 1 GPW Benchmark Together
- Thread starter 420fied
- Start date
Will your light be air cooled? Is your closet properly ventilated? If so, stick a 1000 in there.
- Thread starter
- #622
The voting won't open until the 16th of the month. You can revisit the same thread then and cast your vote.
Can I tell you about mine? I have a 2'x 2.5' closet but because of the 600w hps (used, old, cheap 2d hand, lol) it only hangs semi-evenly over 24"x24" of it. heat with the door open is easy in the low 80's tops but hard to keep in the mid 70's. Humidity durring the day, the real day (lights off durring outside daylight hours, on durring nightime) can creep up to the 50-60% range durring flowering w/o over watering. If its not to cold outside, it pretty much stays around 40%. Suggestions on heat, if it matters creeping to 82-83 degrees and how high up do you think perhaps on average should the light be? It has a glass bottom. Hope its okay to ask when you actually had asked someone else, but seems he'll still be able to ask also...so I'm hoping no harm done.
- Thread starter
- #624
Hey jamthe,
No problem at all bro. That's why I run these journals. I want the pleasure of interacting with the community - so never apologize for inquiring. That's why I'm here. Playing it forward.
Anyway, about your space... it would help me if you could add a picture of the setup but from your description, it sounds like you have a 600 watt, air cooled hood, which isn't being air cooled, hanging in a 2' x 2.5' closet. When the door of the closet is open, the temps are still creeping to 82-83* during lights on.
That's warm. You said nothing of a fan of any sort. If you don't have a small fan blowing between the bottom of the light and the tops of your plants, get one. You can get a small one and mount it to the inside wall of the closet if you have to. The fan will cool the ambient temperature of the air that lays in the hot zone between your bulb and the tops of your plants.
I have fans blowing down the length of my tables and I am able to inch my 600 watt bulbs down to within 6 inches of the tops of my plants with no sign of heat stress(remember, they're on light movers). However, in your current situation, I would advise that you keep your light 14-16 inches above the tops of your plants.
How far is the light over the tops now?
I had it about 12-14" above the tops most of the grow & lowered it to about 8" for the last week or so. I chopped about 10 days ago and think I'm ready to try some real seeds (have done a couple flourescent grows w/ bagseed and this last one flowering w/hps from a clone.) Funny, I've had no problem w/clones when I did it in cocopeat po man's style; but when I got the rockwool plugs and the rooting hormone I finally had my first one not take...lol, NONE of them did!
You're very insightful, that's for sure...yes its not being air cooled. Had a computer fan blowing air out of the closet close to the "exhaust" of the hood high, and a box fan blowing air into the closet low. I think I probably should drill a proper exhaust through the wall into the bathroom though...frick'in hate leaving the gosh darn door open.
jokerjon00
New Member
I dont think I see any dots, not like the ones ive seen in your other posts anyway. I'll show a few pics, but do you think i should add a humidifier to up the humidty or? Thanks again for all your insight. Here are pics
- Thread starter
- #628
If it were me, I'd definitely address the ventilation. It's not TOO hot, but it's too hot. My Flower room is running 76* with both lights on and 68* during lights off.
I hope a small adjustment will enable you to cool it off just a bit.
- Thread starter
- #629
I dont think I see any dots, not like the ones ive seen in your other posts anyway. I'll show a few pics, but do you think i should add a humidifier to up the humidty or? Thanks again for all your insight. Here are pics
I'm seeing the clones in the background and they still look healthy so no, if it were me, I wouldn't run out and grab a humidity dome. You still never told me how long they've been in the cloner for?
I'm guessing that your strain takes longer to root because I'm not seeing any slime or stem rot. Hang in there.
Hey 420fied just been reading thru, getting caught up.
Nice results .I have a comment about aero cloners, from what I understand they do not need a humidity dome. something about all the water constantly spraying the stem, roots to be.
Nice results .I have a comment about aero cloners, from what I understand they do not need a humidity dome. something about all the water constantly spraying the stem, roots to be.- Thread starter
- #631
As I stated earlier in this journal, misting is the best way to help regulate water loss in newly taken cuttings due to the fact that it lowers the VPD (Vapor Pressure Deficit).
I will attempt a quick lesson in basic plant physiology to try explain the basic concepts of transpiration and how to regulate water loss from clones (cuttings) to help prevent wilting.
I got many of these pictures off the web but didn't credit the websites I snagged them from because these are well known facts and I didn't think that citation is in order here. This is brief summary I hope you all can understand.
1) First of all, there are hundreds of stomata on the underside of each leaf. This is where CO2 enters the leaf and where water vapor is transpired (exits the plant). Guard Cells around each stomatal opening control the transpiration and gas exchange rates. K+ ions play an important role here.
Notice that in figure A the guard cells are turgid, or swollen, and the stomatal opening is large. This turgidity is caused by the accumulation of K+ (potassium ions) in the guard cells. As K+ levels increase in the guard cells, the water potential of the guard cells drops, and water enters the guard cells.
In figure B, the guard cells have lost water, which causes the cells to become flaccid and the stomatal opening to close. This may occur when the plant has lost an excessive amount of water. In addition, it generally occurs daily as light levels drop and the use of CO2 in photosynthesis decreases.
An important fact to keep in mind: The stomata open for photosynthesis. Therefore, at night, when plants are not photosynthesizing, the stomata are closed and transpiration (water loss from the leaf) is absent or very, very slow.
What is the primary driver of transpiration (Water loss from the plant)?
Than answer is Light.
What other environmental factors affect transpiration?
a. temperature
b. humidity
c. wind
d. water supply
e. leaf size and # of stomata on each leaf
A plant is like a big straw in a glass of your favorite beverage. When you suck on the straw, you create a pressure potential that is greater than what is in the glass and your favorite beverage moves into your mouth.
When a plant is photosynthesizing, water is being pulled through the plant from the Roots to the Shoots to the Leaves. The stomatal openings on the leaves are similar to the end of the straw in your mouth drinking your favorite beverage.
When the plant is not photosynthesizing (at night), the stomata are closed and there is no (or very little) water loss through the leaves therefore, the pressure potential drops significantly.
At the roots, the pressure potential is lowest, in the shoots, the pressure potential increases, at the leaves, the pressure potential is the greatest.
Again, a plant is like a big straw drinking its favorite beverage....water with Blue Planet Nutrients in it.
How can we regulate transpiration?
#1 turn the lights off - easy
#2 increase the humidity - easy as well
#3 decrease air flow around the leaf - just as easy
#4 lower temperatures - more complicated
How reducing air flow and increasing humidity will help newly taken cutting lose less water.
Water inside the leaf is liquid and inside the leaf there is 100% relative humidity.
Outside the leaf, water is in vapor form (gas).
Water turns into a gas (vapor) as the transpiration process takes place.
If the relative humidity of the air surrounding the leaf is high, then the Vapor Pressure Deficit (layer around the leaf where water transitions from liquid to gas) is lower and water loss is mitigated.
Reducing airflow and increasing humidity reduces the Vapor Pressure Deficit therefore slowing down water loss.
This LINK is BADASS. Not only as it explains water loss in cuttings, it is from Texas A&M where I studied plant science. Home - Aggie Horticulture Aggie Horticulture
420fied, you are now armed with more tools in your tool box to perfect and hone your craft. You can now use your powers of observation to determine what works best in YOUR particular system.
In every journal, there are certain posts that are considered "gold nuggets". In fact, I authored a list of them a couple of pages back. The post I'm about to make is one that I will end up referring folks back to again and again.
This post is for any grower that dips their clones in gel and then experiences wilt after placing them in the aero cloner.
I guess the REAL gold nugget was authored by my Mad Scientist Brother back on page 37, post #548. It happens to be the post that's quoted here for everyone. Keep it in your notes.
Let me give some backstory... As most of you know, over the course of the last month I have started dipping every clone in clonex gel and then placing it in my aero cloner. Although the clones are rooting vigorously, I have been experiencing a 24-36 hour of extreme wilt. They eventually recover and produce thriving root systems but 36 hours of wilt can't be good for them. Here's what I was experiencing:
The advice Corey gave me in the above post is spot on. Tonight I took a single clone. I misted it while still on the mother, lightly scraped it, and then cut it and stuck it in a cup of water. After it sat there for about 15 minutes, I dipped the bottom 1" in clonex gel and placed it in one of my inactive cloners with no spray hitting it and misted it again. I let it sit for 20 minutes before transferring it to a running cloner where I misted it for the third time and it began to receive spray.
I'm happy to report that we're 6 hours in and the clone(the one on the corner) never looked worse than this. She drooped just a tiny bit within the first 30 minutes but it was hardly even noticeable. I'm going to cut more clones tomorrow and I believe misting will do wonders for them as well. If you're experiencing wilt, try this. I'm betting you'll like what you see.
Thank you Corey.
Mrgivemethat
New Member
Nice job fied quick question, if your aware im running in a 5 x 5 tent as of now Im only running a 400 in the corner but im about to but a reflector and ballas, I already know im getting a jd ballast but on reflector im kinda stuck or impartial if thats the word im looking for, so for my area , what do you think of the weird sized reflectors ie. 34 x 25 or 37 x 29? I was pondering if a square reflector wouldnt work better in a square area, do you think a more square a/c hood would fit and make a more uniform light ie. The blockbuster? or something similar?
Edit: 5 x 5 tent
quick question, if your aware im running in a 5 x 5 tent as of now Im only running a 400 in the corner but im about to but a reflector and ballas, I already know im getting a jd ballast but on reflector im kinda stuck or impartial if thats the word im looking for, so for my area , what do you think of the weird sized reflectors ie. 34 x 25 or 37 x 29? I was pondering if a square reflector wouldnt work better in a square area, do you think a more square a/c hood would fit and make a more uniform light ie. The blockbuster? or something similar?Edit: 5 x 5 tent
jokerjon00
New Member
I'm seeing the clones in the background and they still look healthy so no, if it were me, I wouldn't run out and grab a humidity dome. You still never told me how long they've been in the cloner for?
I'm guessing that your strain takes longer to root because I'm not seeing any slime or stem rot. Hang in there.
As of yesterday it was 9 days in the cloner, today is day 10.
- Thread starter
- #634
Definitely no need to panic just yet. It takes some strains 2 weeks to show. Hang in there.
- Thread starter
- #635
Nice job fied
Edit: 5 x 5 tent
Thank you. Like you, I'd be looking for a large, rectangular hood. I'm a fan of the bigger square hoods. I plan on upgrading at some point as well but I haven't really researched hoods thoroughly yet.
I'm running a 5'x5' tent as well. I ran a smaller hood with 1k light and found it just didnt give the spread I needed.
Did a fair amount of research, including going to my local hydro store and looking things over. My hydro store gtd me that the Raptor hood would not leak (huge importance) and it obviously was big as hell. In the end, that's what I bought. I am highly satisfied with this hood! It doesnt like a bit of air, has a very low profile which is good for useable height adjustment. And the foot print covers the 5x5 pretty damn well.
It's expensive, but the quality seems to be there.
******* Don't forget if you buy this to get the proper adapter plug because it uses the hydrofarm plug which does not fit the JDL ballast! ******
Did a fair amount of research, including going to my local hydro store and looking things over. My hydro store gtd me that the Raptor hood would not leak (huge importance) and it obviously was big as hell. In the end, that's what I bought. I am highly satisfied with this hood! It doesnt like a bit of air, has a very low profile which is good for useable height adjustment. And the foot print covers the 5x5 pretty damn well.
It's expensive, but the quality seems to be there.
******* Don't forget if you buy this to get the proper adapter plug because it uses the hydrofarm plug which does not fit the JDL ballast! ******
Mrgivemethat
New Member
Thanks Bass, and a couple ?s for you I always see you alot around the community and always wondered is "Bassman" bass as in fiahing or bass as in loud music or drum?
soecond do you find your raptor to show less or grow less size on the short sides of it? Like real nice colas dowm middle long ways and smaller on the short or width ways? If this makes any sense at all im really stoned atm.
I run Raptors and Radiants and there is no comparison,the Raptors rule. Personally I like to keep the Raptors to a 4' footprint. I have two 4x6 flood tables loaded with 2L hempy's going,one with two Radiants over it and the other with two Raptors over it and you can see the difference on the plants on the periphery,not much as even the Radiants will cover a 4' area but there is a definite degradation in plant size on the last row under the Radiants. The difference in price between a decent standard sized reflector and a Raptor is about a hundred bucks,how much increase in yield does one have to get to pay for the difference in price,not much. If I could do it all over again I would buy nothing but Raptors with 1000w dual arc's running in them,I have switched two of mine over to dual arc's and when it is time to switch out my last two HPS's they will get dual arc's also,same theory,the dual arc's pay for themselves multiple times over.
AkThunderFunk
New Member
How many times have you knocked those over fied? Tall, skinny, and stacked like dominos.
Similar threads
