COorganics - All Natural - No-Till With ACT's - Winter Attic Grow

[Conradino23]

Strong genetics means vigorous and healthy grow, couldn't agree more

 

[skunnymonster]

Seeing as we're talking clones here, has anyone cloned a skinny secondary shoot & did it grow into a big strong plant? I've only ever taken clones off the end of thick branches so I thought I'd ask if it worked for anyone reading this

 

[shuffledemon]

Seeing as we're talking clones here, has anyone cloned a skinny secondary shoot & did it grow into a big strong plant? I've only ever taken clones off the end of thick branches so I thought I'd ask if it worked for anyone reading this

Yes! Works well. When I take a bottom shoot, however, if there is any growth before the top set of leaves I trim it so that I am feeding less via the (as of yet) non-existent root base.

My grow journal below has clones that were taken this way. 4 for 4 on this go. Really not that hard. They need some babying at the start but are all good now.

 

[skunnymonster]

Thanks shuffle, I'm doing a flux & some of the arms have skinny secondary shoots that need cutting off, so now I know I can clone them it's great news

 

[B A R]

I have noticed that the cutting stay green when I PH balance the water, and they yellow and brown when I do not PH adjust the water.

How far out of balance was PH when they yellowed and browned?

Are you anywhere around Lab? I've been waiting for the answer to this one myself...

 

[labexperiment]

First off sorry for not being around, harvesting in the garden and making garlic+dill pickles, canning beans ect., plus work and I have been very busy.

How far out of balance was PH when they yellowed and browned?

PH was not adjusted from the tap and came in @7.2/7.3

Here I am confused, help me out Lab,
To me "balanced" would mean neutral.
But my understanding now is you guys are lowering it??
Please elaborate.

PH balance for hydroponics is around 5.4 - 6.3, with 5.8 being optimal.

Seeing as we're talking clones here, has anyone cloned a skinny secondary shoot & did it grow into a big strong plant? I've only ever taken clones off the end of thick branches so I thought I'd ask if it worked for anyone reading this

I have taken clones both small and large branches and in my experience the medium to medium/small develop roots the fastest.

Are you anywhere around Lab? I've been waiting for the answer to this one myself...

I am here, have barely had time to read and try to help in the FAQ section.

Next week will be rough as well, I just picked up a parts truck and have to disassemble it soon. I have been taking off a few parts here and there , time permitting but I have to get it gone soon.

Hope this answers your questions.

 

[Radogast]

First off sorry for not being around, harvesting in the garden and making garlic+dill pickles, canning beans ect., plus work and I have been very busy.



PH was not adjusted from the tap and came in @7.2/7.3



PH balance for hydroponics is around 5.4 - 6.3, with 5.8 being optimal.



I have taken clones both small and large branches and in my experience the medium to medium/small develop roots the fastest.



I am here, have barely had time to read and try to help in the FAQ section.

Next week will be rough as well, I just picked up a parts truck and have to disassemble it soon. I have been taking off a few parts here and there , time permitting but I have to get it gone soon.

Hope this answers your questions.

All that gardening, pickling, work and life due sound like good choices to me. Even the FAQ

I'm surprised at the 7.2/7.3. I can't imagine anything less than a successful grow in soil with those numbers, but I guess it takes all kinds of genetics.

Disassembling a parts truck sounds like my childhood. Except that was 40s and 50s cars

 

[labexperiment]

The 7.2/7.3 is the PH in the spray bar cloner, it is considered hydroponics/aeroponics.

I also have a LittleGiant fogger I can put in the cloner.

 

[Radogast]

Nice spray bar. It reminds me of the pvc based low pressure patio mister I installed when I moved to Arizona.
Except my Arizona tap water was 8.0-8.2 PH. (I used a full house water softener with a bypass for the yard.)

 

[COorganics]

Hey lab,
Good to hear from ya, thanks.

Is that cloner the 3 site super cash cropping model?
Messing around, of course. Ill get those better spray nozzles next chance I get.

I have roots here. Teas going, setting up a decent sized veggie grow in my house for the winter.
Last winter was a bitch! I need 6 cords of wood to start.
This winter will feature grow rooms all over the house, providing heat and humidity and food for humans.
Ill try and keep the cannabis upstairs and out of site for mother in law visit and just because discrete is still smart policy.

 

[COorganics]

Cleaning flower room today and reconfiguring some things. It's about ready. With 1200 watts of HPS it is bright, I forgot how damn bright it is. Wear your shades under HID and LED and eat your carrots too.

Used up all my castings in my soil mix and a little top dressing, cleaned out all the worms and cocoons I could from the castings. Let a lot of both go into my soil mix. I have a healthy population of worms in my farm and in all my containers now. Good stuff. Trying Peat for worm bedding this time in the worm farm. I pretty much have thrown the kitchen sink in the worm farm up until now. (With the exception of meat and citrus), Including a lot of goodies like oyster shell flour and egg shells. I'm trying to avoid veggie scraps now altogether and try feeding them compost and fan leaves and treats like tea and foliar leftovers, etc.

Now simply waiting for soil to finish cooking and outside temps to drop a little bit more.

Attic is about to be a garden again.

Shot from my yard the other day

 

[COorganics]

Look closely at the top of the container. Definitely not a barren wasteland. The little sprouts are adagio arugula. Who woulda thunk your weed plant's containers could also make you some cheap tasty food? And all the while keeping the soil alive and healthy.

Somebody is probably thinking doesn't the decomposing shit at the top of the container rob the soil of Nitrogen?
I use a sprinkle of a mix of blood and feather meal right under the mulch, in addition to fresh EWC. I'm not too worried about N. or P. or K. Or anything else for that matter. Just gonna see how it rolls along.

 

[labexperiment]

I used peat-moss for my initial bedding, the worms will eat and compost the peatmoss in about 2 months depending on how many worms you have. I started my vermicompost bin about a year ago with about 100 worms, and am guessing I am up to at least 1000 or more now. They are getting about 2 lbs of scraps a week now. I am feeding everything from the kitchen except bananas(due to sprays used for spiders which are toxic), meat and citrus. I use an old coffee grinder for making eggshell dust to add to the bin. I drain the worm pee every 2 weeks or so and get enough to add to a 5 gallon bucket(with an air stone). The worm tea seems to be as potent 2 weeks later as it was the first day I started the brew(just have to stir it up before use). Since I have not started growing organically yet I am wishing I had someone to give the castings to as I am up to 60 lbs or so.

Anyway, just thought I would share the peat moss knowledge and ended up ranting sorry bout that.

Got any pics of your vermicompost bin?

HA HA WORM PORN!

 

[COorganics]

I have the humble worm farm 360. Now it's one tray. I made several trays of castings in the year and a half that I had it. Not much but the goods! Maybe more than several trays I don't really know. I'm back to bedding, worms and a little food now, it's essentially all starting over.

Lab, your a smart guy. When you do an organic cannabis grow you will already have all the knowledge and supplies all there at your disposal. + reps=virtual High Five!

 

[COorganics]

Well lab you asked for it, and I delivered.
For the uninitiated, the last pic is of mating worms and worm cocoon.
Graphic worm porn next to a baby. Or more likely what will become 4-5 babies.

 

[COorganics]

I'd love to see some pictures here of other people's worm bins. Keeping worms is one of the best things you can ever do for your garden, IMHO. If you don't have one start up your google and buy/build one. Worm farm 360 is good for a small entry level pre-made stacking model. Would be nice in an apartment. And no, they don't stink.

Worm Factory 360 - Perfect Gardens

Or just build an entry level bin with Rubbermaid tubs.

Worms can be purchased alive online. Keeping them is a breeze.

DIY Worm Bin - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®

The link above to the worm bin looks ok to me, just gave it a quick glance. Research prior to building anything is always a good thing.

 

[COorganics]

I drain the worm pee every 2 weeks or so and get enough to add to a 5 gallon bucket(with an air stone). The worm tea seems to be as potent 2 weeks later as it was the first day I started the brew(just have to stir it up before use).

I have been using the leachate tea to inoculate my ACT's for some time now and it seems to get the job done. I read that it is very potent stuff. Even a little bit like a tablespoon per gallon should do it. I think it is a really good idea to incorporate it somehow. All the rest of the leachate tea goes back into the worm farm. That's just how I do it.

I find it interesting that you feel the tea is still just as good 2 weeks later. My reading suggests that microbes in teas eventually run out of food and die off. I've never tried bubbling a tea anywhere near that long. Of course the answer is really only a microscope away.

 

[labexperiment]

My reading suggested the same thing, the only reason I say it seems effective 2 weeks later is I always pour whatever is left in the same place before I brew up the new batch, and the growth of the tomatoes is substantially better then the tomatoes that get none.I was going to put a bucket with a lid under the worm bin and a hose from the bin to the bucket, drop an air stone in there and add molasses and water once a week. I was going to try that once I got all the information lined up. But the tomatoes that got the old tea became larger and had more flowers, so it did not seem necessary to add the molasses after all. And I never did add the hose but I guess I should stop being lazy and just do it. My plan was to have the worm pee feed directly into the 5 gallons of water and add molasses once a week for food for the microbes.

Oh I have read through your journals and I do not remember if you add molasses to your soil mix to super charge it when you first start the composting process. Do you?

 

[COorganics]

No, no molasses on its own. I brew and apply ACT's (molasses is the food stock for the microbes here) pretty liberally to kick start the "cooking".

 

[COorganics]

You could play around with adding things like kelp meal to your teas, but you should definitely do the molasses and some castings in addition to the leachate.

Why not? Molasses as a foodstock for microbes, castings to get the party started.

The teas I make have too many ingredients atm.