PeeJay's Perpetual Organic Homebrewed Soil - Stealth Cabinet And Greenhouse Grow

[PeeJay]

It depends. chloramines are undesirable since they don't dissipate like chlorine does. Your water ppm is low, soft water. Another option would be to get drops like serious aquarium folks use. They will remove the chloramine. You can get 'em at large pet stores. If you treat your water with the drops you'd be pretty good. My tap water PPM is very high and so is the pH so the drops wouldn't really cut it for me.

 

[COorganics]

Oh that's an interesting idea PeeJay! Thanks.

 

[PeeJay]

Here's a link about chloramine removal by someone who likes to make fermented products like kombucha. The subject of chloramine removal is important to brewers, those who keep fish, etc.

Chloramine removal.

The part about drops breaking down the chloramine to chloride and ammonia is interesting. The amide group becomes a nitrogen source for the plants ( a minor one given the concentrations of chloramine in water.)

 

[COorganics]

Thanks for the share. I didn't know anything like AmQuel Plus existed. In my situation I can't see why it wouldn't work great for me.

 

[GardenFaerie]

I'd like to give some constructive tips about transplanting anything. It can be a tree into the ground or larger container, or any plant to any other place than it is currently growing. If you water your plants until they fully saturate using liquid kelp before moving them to their new location, you will cut down by 75% the length of time it takes for the roots to develop root hairs and react with the new soil and fungi. If you do not saturate the root ball before transplant, it is very difficult for water to wick back in toward the center of the plant and the roots just below the plant could dry out very easily and you wouldn't even see it.

The reason for the kelp are the micro nutrients and growth hormones found in kelp greatly reduce transplant stress. This is not anecdotal, it has been studied and documented. The nutrient value of kelp is usually .01-.01-.01 so there is no potential for this to over feed.

 

[B A R]

Always an abundance of knowledge from you PJ. What I want to know is how did you remove that transplant so perfectly. Also great info Brooklyn.

 

[PeeJay]

Interesting, GF. I was taught to have the new soil nice and damp but not soaked and the root ball on the dry side - then wait around 24 hours and water well - for well established container plants. Something smaller going into an outdoor garden would be different.

 

[GardenFaerie]

Interesting, GF. I was taught to have the new soil nice and damp but not soaked and the root ball on the dry side - then wait around 24 hours and water well - for well established container plants. Something smaller going into an outdoor garden would be different.

Yes, this is one method used with ornamental plants which growers use to force the roots to seek out into the moist soil to bring the roots to finish and set a flower for the sale bench. It is a very good technique for that purpose, but for really good root development on plants you want to perform optimally well, the method I use for both container and to ground xplant is to saturate the root ball before moving. The reality is, if something works for you, don't do anything else! Hahaha! I just can't wait to get out and garden already! Maybe do a little gardening tomorrow. Supposed to be 70.

 

[ProperGreen]

Superb Share! Had To Upload It To My Drive! Thanks Brother! And Nice Work!!

Here's a link about chloramine removal by someone who likes to make fermented products like kombucha. The subject of chloramine removal is important to brewers, those who keep fish, etc.

Chloramine removal.

The part about drops breaking down the chloramine to chloride and ammonia is interesting. The amide group becomes a nitrogen source for the plants ( a minor one given the concentrations of chloramine in water.)

Nice share brother! And great work in the garden for sure!
Plants are looking superb indeed!
Also, you didn't forget to add mycorrhizae to your transplant hole did you?! Just a friendly reminder for future reference at this point lol! You can also water some in, in case you did forget!

& Blessings

 

[PeeJay]

Re: Superb Share! Had To Upload It To My Drive! Thanks Brother! And Nice Work!!

Nice share brother! And great work in the garden for sure!
Plants are looking superb indeed!
Also, you didn't forget to add mycorrhizae to your transplant hole did you?! Just a friendly reminder for future reference at this point lol! You can also water some in, in case you did forget!

& Blessings

The dose of mycorrhizal inoculum in the Sunshine Mix fraction of the soil has been cooking for a good while. The seedling and early growth soil has added inoculum as well. I don't add any extra transplanting into the flower soil because I want a more bacteria/archea dominated soil biology as the plant progresses towards flowering. Fungal domination for early growth. Bacterial domination for late growth and flower.

 

[PeeJay]

Always an abundance of knowledge from you PJ. What I want to know is how did you remove that transplant so perfectly. Also great info Brooklyn.

Which one Reg? The plant that was in the ten gallon pot was inside a pot the same size as the weed plant. I used that potted plant as a mold to make the hole the right size.

Or if you are talking about how I got the cannabis plant out so neatly, I just held my hand over the top of the soil and tipped the pot almost upside down. It slid right out.

 

[GardenFaerie]

Re: Superb Share! Had To Upload It To My Drive! Thanks Brother! And Nice Work!!

The dose of mycorrhizal inoculum in the Sunshine Mix fraction of the soil has been cooking for a good while. The seedling and early growth soil has added inoculum as well. I don't add any extra transplanting into the flower soil because I want a more bacteria/archea dominated soil biology as the plant progresses towards flowering. Fungal domination for early growth. Bacterial domination for late growth and flower.

Why, praytell, bacterial for flowering? Is it because of the production of humates and available P in the soil?

 

[B A R]

Which one Reg? The plant that was in the ten gallon pot was inside a pot the same size as the weed plant. I used that potted plant as a mold to make the hole the right size.

Or if you are talking about how I got the cannabis plant out so neatly, I just held my hand over the top of the soil and tipped the pot almost upside down. It slid right out.

Oh, I got it now. I thought you pulled the plant out of the pot you molded the hole in. I was like "Holy crap".

 

[ProperGreen]

Fungal Dominated? And No Mycos? I'm Curious"

The dose of mycorrhizal inoculum in the Sunshine Mix fraction of the soil has been cooking for a good while. The seedling and early growth soil has added inoculum as well. I don't add any extra transplanting into the flower soil because I want a more bacteria/archea dominated soil biology as the plant progresses towards flowering. Fungal domination for early growth. Bacterial domination for late growth and flower.

You know that mycos will most likely fail to ever germinate if it doesn't come into connect with living roots within 24 hours after applying it to the soil. There's a video on page three of my thread in regards, that pretty much sums it up, but that information is available pretty much everywhere.
There's also a nice thread here in the organics section!

But In learning this a while back tho, I stopped adding it my soil mixes, and have since, never understood why ppl or companies add it to their soil mixes. In addition to that, given how costly mycos are, how much do you think said company actually adds per bag?
And what makes you think that adding mycos will shift the soil to being a fungally dominant soil?
As far as I've learned, for a soil to be fungi dominant, it needs to be really old and undisturbed, and mycorrhizae are a root fungus, versus a soil fungi, which means no roots, no host, no mycos!
Also, as far as I'm concerned, or have learned via Teaming With Microbes, the plants dictate the outcome/makeup of the soil, by producing exudates that attract the bacteria and fungi that it needs for nourishment.

But I'm curious as to your logic and what you may know that I don't!

& blessing.

Ps, in regards to this post

Why, praytell, bacterial for flowering? Is it because of the production of humates and available P in the soil?

Mycorrhizae actually fetch P in the soil, which is all the most resin to be sure that your roots are infected with the fungi during prior to flowering! Any thoughts ladies and gents?

 

[PeeJay]

I've got some work to get done tonight so I can't write a book. Mycorrizal spores can survive as long as ten years in stockpiled soil, so I don't think your information about them dying in two weeks is even close to correct Mr. Green. There are no videos on page 3 of your journal.

Your point about fungal vs. bacterial dominated soils is correct. I was just throwing out an answer on the fly. The main point is that if there are micorrhizal fungi growing on the roots in good soil already, they will grow all along the expanding root system. I don't need to throw more spores into the mix to make that happen.

 

[B A R]

That's good to hear. I was starting to think you had to put the plant in immediately after the Mykos. Can someone else chime in on these two diverse opinions?

 

[PeeJay]

Yes, this is one method used with ornamental plants which growers use to force the roots to seek out into the moist soil to bring the roots to finish and set a flower for the sale bench.

I will be doing lots of transplanting for my container garden in the next few months I'll do some comparisons. One thought, don't I want my plant to set flowers for the sale bench?

 

[GardenFaerie]

I will be doing lots of transplanting for my container garden in the next few months I'll do some comparisons. One thought, don't I want my plant to set flowers for the sale bench?

Growers like me always timed grows to coincide when people emerged from their homes with spring fever. Plants rarely, if ever, left the belts without a minimal level of flower buds. When you buy a plant at the store, the more squat plant with no flower is always going to be the best plant to buy, not the one with tons of buds and loose habit.

Now, for this topic of mycos; Indeed there are some very basic levels of survival for beneficial fungi in the soil and yes, it can take many, many years to formulate the adequate requirements to establish a fungal mat. The fungal mat does not depend on roots, it is the opposite. Back in the old days, about 20 years ago, when VAM Mycorrhizae was being introduced to the gardening market, there were many plants which absolutely did not benefit at all from the association, yet, it was still widely marketed without regard to this well known fact in the industry.

Now, I am not saying there does not have to be a symbiotic relationship with the root hair, but the evidence I've seen does not indicate the mycorrhizae is dependent on the root hair in order to establish a fungal mat and/or the ability to survive in soils sans roots.

 

[ProperGreen]

Hmm, I Had No Idea! I Thought Sure That I Was Correct..But I Guess Not!

I've got some work to get done tonight so I can't write a book. Mycorrizal spores can survive as long as ten years in stockpiled soil, so I don't think your information about them dying in two weeks is even close to correct Mr. Green. There are no videos on page 3 of your journal.

Your point about fungal vs. bacterial dominated soils is correct. I was just throwing out an answer on the fly. The main point is that if there are micorrhizal fungi growing on the roots in good soil already, they will grow all along the expanding root system. I don't need to throw more spores into the mix to make that happen.

Hmm, something else that I need to unlearn it seems. Do you have a source for that info? The mycos lasting for up to 10 years bit?
I'll go back to the books tonight for sure, to try and find exactly where I got my info from in regards to the mycos.
Also I said 24 hours lol, not two weeks! But that's even more extreme lol.

And understood that you've got stuff to do!
I'm def. taken a back tho. But that's a good thing lol. All the reason to familiarize myself that much more.
And I respect your opinion in not needing to add more mycos to your mix, I've just learned that its best to infect at every transplant, as it's the surest way to guarantee colonization.

But given your results, maybe there is enough in the sunshine mix!

& Blessings

Also, I think that video is on page 2 sorry. I can't see it from my iPad but I think it's there given my comments on page 2. If you can find it, don't worry, I'll get the info and share it again, because it was deserving of its place on the thread for sure!

 

[GardenFaerie]

One more thing; when I was talking about 20 years ago and VAM fungi, I do recall the material which carried the fungi did need to touch the roots for proper establishment. However, over the years they have managed to put the fungi into powder form, liquid, pellets, powder, etc. Now, if this fungi could not survive without a root hair, how is this possible? I can pull textbooks off my shelves, but I can say with certainty that, once you inoculate soil with mycorrhizae, you do not have to do it again and again. In a container, it would be better to be sure and inoculate it with each planting. It can't hurt; it can only just be a little expensive. I remember the days when one gram of VAM fungi cost over 40 dollars.