thebeast27
On Vacation
Bet ur plants will be loving yesterdays and todays temps in the uk. Lovely day ahead my friend and lots of plant growth to come
Auto Guerilla Grow Near Glasgow - Scotland
- Thread starter
- #122
It was well needed. Just a shame my balcony plants couldnt have been outside to enjoy all the sun. They enjoyed some of it though. Temps on the balcony were hitting 45°C for a while yesterday (wind going the wrong way for much of a breeze), that the problem with being in a sun trap. Hoping the high temps continue for a wee while so i can give them more water. It a week or more between waterings.
420Amard
New Member
Looking great man good vibes coming your way 
- Thread starter
- #124
DISASTER!!!! Look at the pic. This is what i found on a few leaves earlier on. Removed what leaves i seen with this and hoping i have caught it very early on and that it does not spread too quickly. Powdery mould/mildew. Have been reading how to combat it but would like more info from anyone else that has had this problem outdoors and will my crop be safe? Cant get out again till wed afternoon.
NIGHTMARE!!!!
So sorry to see that bud! I'm not sure how best to protect against that outdoors to be honest.
Indoors the best method is keeping a sterile grow room, temps above 26C and humidity below 50%.
So sorry to see that bud! I'm not sure how best to protect against that outdoors to be honest.
Indoors the best method is keeping a sterile grow room, temps above 26C and humidity below 50%.
You could try spraying the plants with a diluted mix of water and baking soda a couple of times. But it would probably mean being out at the site two or three days in a row.
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- #127
I would mix it one table spoon to five litres of water. Spraying in the evening would be best as it wont evaporate too quickly in the cooler nights.
Yeah spray top and bottom of leaves, stems, buds and remove any obviously infected leaves.
Maybe spray Wednesday, check them Thursday. Spray again Friday and check again on Saturday.
Now it's apparent it could happen, it would probably be a good idea to treat the plants once a week to keep it at bay
- Thread starter
- #129
I got baking soda so will go out tomorrow evening for 1st application. Got hydrogen peroxide on order for tue so out on wed to apply that (1 part h2o2 + 3 parts water). Not sure how often to apply that solution but hopefully will do the trick. Will also mean i have it to do a proper h2o2 wash once harvested meaning that i can get rid of any remaining spores and will mean i still have good smokeable bud.
- Thread starter
- #130
Pics from yesterday's visit. Firstly site 1. A lot of grass has grown along with weeds. Going out on wed for a full clean up of all the sites.
A shot next of thc bomb and bubba kush.
Next are the 2 hod. The snapped stem has fixed itself! So for anyone snapping a stem it can be fixed.
Site 2 - bombs. All good apart from the pm.
Site 3 - 4 x rrf and 1 bomb. 1 rrf hitting the sheeting so prob need to remove sheeting or lst it.
A shot next of thc bomb and bubba kush.
Next are the 2 hod. The snapped stem has fixed itself! So for anyone snapping a stem it can be fixed.
Site 2 - bombs. All good apart from the pm.
Site 3 - 4 x rrf and 1 bomb. 1 rrf hitting the sheeting so prob need to remove sheeting or lst it.
Slowpuffer
Well-Known Member
Pics from yesterday's visit. Firstly site 1. A lot of grass has grown along with weeds. Going out on wed for a full clean up of all the sites.
A shot next of thc bomb and bubba kush.
Next are the 2 hod. The snapped stem has fixed itself! So for anyone snapping a stem it can be fixed.
Site 2 - bombs. All good apart from the pm.
Site 3 - 4 x rrf and 1 bomb. 1 rrf hitting the sheeting so prob need to remove sheeting or lst it.
[/QUOTE Up to date and subbed !! I think your plants are is competition with to many weeds. I'm in Massachusetts, USA and Will be watching, and learning, good luck !!
- Thread starter
- #132
Went out a wee while ago and removed all infected leaves and used around 750ml of 1L mixed with a teaspoon of baking soda sprayed all over ALL the plants including underside of the leaves. This will ensure any PM that i may have missed will be got. Get hydrogen peroxide tomorrow and will be out with my pal on wed to fully sort out the sites by giving a good tidy up and re-assembling the meshing and coverings, and to spray plants with peroxide (1 part peroxide with 3 parts water). Will reapply on fri and then once a week till harvest. Once harvested i will be bud washing with peroxide 1st, baking soda and lemon juice 2nd and then rinsed with plain water last. Am hoping that these measures will save my bud.
420Amard
New Member
I heard bio bizz leaf coat is really good at getting rid of the one we shall not speak it's name but they are a huge improvement from last year for that I say
Found this write up on it not my words but sharing is caring
Good luck
Lesser know options include:
Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) -This is possibly the best known of the home-made, organic solutions for powdery mildew. Although studies indicate that baking soda alone is not all that effective, when combined with horticultural grade or dormant oil and liquid soap, efficacy is very good if applied in the early stages or before an outbreak occurs.
Use this recipe to make your own solution—mix one tablespoon of baking soda with a teaspoon of dormant oil and one teaspoon of insecticidal or liquid soap (not detergent) to a gallon of water. Spray on plants every one to two weeks.
Potassium bicarbonate– Similar to baking soda, this has the unique advantage of actually eliminating powdery mildew once it’s there. Potassium bicarbonate is a contact fungicide which kills the powdery mildew spores quickly. In addition, it’s approved for use in organic growing.
Mouthwash – If it can kill the germs in your mouth, certainly the fungal spores of powdery mildew are no match. And that’s the premise. Generic, ethanol based mouthwash can be very effective at control. Tests using one part mouthwash to three parts water worked for well for Jeff Gillman, Ph.D and Associate Professor at the University of Minnesota, Department of Horticulture. Just be careful when mixing and applying mouthwash as new foliage can be damaged.
Vinegar – Similar to mouthwash, the acetic acid of vinegar can control powdery mildew. A mixture of 2-3 tablespoons of common apple cider vinegar, containing 5% acetic acid mixed with a gallon of water does job. However, too much vinegar can burn plants but at the same time, higher concentrations (above 5%) are more effective.
Sulfur and Lime/Sulfur – Direct contact by sulfur prevents disease spores from developing. When mixed with hydrated lime, the solution will penetrate leaves for even greater effectiveness. A widely available version of this combination includes copper sulphate and hydrated lime, known as Bordeaux mix. However, all of these solutions can burn plant tissue and is damaging to microorganisms in the soil and harmful to beneficial insects. It is also considered moderately toxic to mammals and humans. Use sparingly and with caution if at all.
Milk – The latest player in the fight against powdery mildew is milk. It’s not clear yet why it works so well, but it is believed that naturally occurring compounds in the milk are at work to combat the disease while also boosting the plant’s immune system. One experiment showed good results by applying a weekly dose of one part milk to two parts water.
Water – Ironically, dry conditions and high humidity are the most favorable conditions for powdery mildew to form. But straight water is its enemy because it washes off the spores before they have time to embed. However, water isn’t something that I promote for control because wet foliage is friend to many other plant diseases. If you’re going to try this option, do so early in the day so foliage has time to dry out quickly.
Neem oil – This is a readily available organic option to disease and pest control. Neem oil is extracted from the neem tree, native to India. This is an effective disease control and a broad spectrum, natural insecticide that is kinder to beneficial insects and mammals. As for controlling powdery mildew, results vary but it is not the best option. Results are usually moderate at best.
Found this write up on it not my words but sharing is caring
Good luck Lesser know options include:
Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) -This is possibly the best known of the home-made, organic solutions for powdery mildew. Although studies indicate that baking soda alone is not all that effective, when combined with horticultural grade or dormant oil and liquid soap, efficacy is very good if applied in the early stages or before an outbreak occurs.
Use this recipe to make your own solution—mix one tablespoon of baking soda with a teaspoon of dormant oil and one teaspoon of insecticidal or liquid soap (not detergent) to a gallon of water. Spray on plants every one to two weeks.
Potassium bicarbonate– Similar to baking soda, this has the unique advantage of actually eliminating powdery mildew once it’s there. Potassium bicarbonate is a contact fungicide which kills the powdery mildew spores quickly. In addition, it’s approved for use in organic growing.
Mouthwash – If it can kill the germs in your mouth, certainly the fungal spores of powdery mildew are no match. And that’s the premise. Generic, ethanol based mouthwash can be very effective at control. Tests using one part mouthwash to three parts water worked for well for Jeff Gillman, Ph.D and Associate Professor at the University of Minnesota, Department of Horticulture. Just be careful when mixing and applying mouthwash as new foliage can be damaged.
Vinegar – Similar to mouthwash, the acetic acid of vinegar can control powdery mildew. A mixture of 2-3 tablespoons of common apple cider vinegar, containing 5% acetic acid mixed with a gallon of water does job. However, too much vinegar can burn plants but at the same time, higher concentrations (above 5%) are more effective.
Sulfur and Lime/Sulfur – Direct contact by sulfur prevents disease spores from developing. When mixed with hydrated lime, the solution will penetrate leaves for even greater effectiveness. A widely available version of this combination includes copper sulphate and hydrated lime, known as Bordeaux mix. However, all of these solutions can burn plant tissue and is damaging to microorganisms in the soil and harmful to beneficial insects. It is also considered moderately toxic to mammals and humans. Use sparingly and with caution if at all.
Milk – The latest player in the fight against powdery mildew is milk. It’s not clear yet why it works so well, but it is believed that naturally occurring compounds in the milk are at work to combat the disease while also boosting the plant’s immune system. One experiment showed good results by applying a weekly dose of one part milk to two parts water.
Water – Ironically, dry conditions and high humidity are the most favorable conditions for powdery mildew to form. But straight water is its enemy because it washes off the spores before they have time to embed. However, water isn’t something that I promote for control because wet foliage is friend to many other plant diseases. If you’re going to try this option, do so early in the day so foliage has time to dry out quickly.
Neem oil – This is a readily available organic option to disease and pest control. Neem oil is extracted from the neem tree, native to India. This is an effective disease control and a broad spectrum, natural insecticide that is kinder to beneficial insects and mammals. As for controlling powdery mildew, results vary but it is not the best option. Results are usually moderate at best.
- Thread starter
- #134
I had read that from a site or 2 that i was researching. Baking soda is dirt cheap and i have a tub. Also hydrogen peroxide is dirt cheap and got a 6% 200ml bottle from Boots for £1.09. Mix 1 part h2o2 with 6 parts water (3 parts if 3% strength) and give a good spray. Will head out on thur or fri to do with baking soda solution and then again on fri or sat to do once more with baking soda. Will be out once a week till harvest to spray with h2o2 only just to keep on top of the PM.
- Thread starter
- #135
Got out today. All plants sprayed with h2o2, full tidy up done and meshing reinforced. All sites now have a proper home-made cover done.
Sites 1-3 in order.
Did find some bud rot on 1 of the bombs so cut that out. Hopefully i caught it in time and no more damage will be done.
Sites 1-3 in order.
Did find some bud rot on 1 of the bombs so cut that out. Hopefully i caught it in time and no more damage will be done.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
Looks good mate, hope you avoid the budrot and win the battle against PM 
- Thread starter
- #137
So do i. Both should not pose much of an issue (i hope). I have done what i can to kill and reduce PM, plus washing afterwards will help remove and kill any remaining spores. Covering the sites will also vastly reduce the amount of rain falling on them to virtually zero. The plastic still allows the sun to reach the plants and left the outsides uncovered to allow airflow round the plants. The covers do have holes to let the rain fall in places around the plants thus keeping them watered and the holes are around each plant so the buds dont get wet. Also means that rain cant collate on top of the plastic sheets which if it did and was heavy enough could collapse the whole structure. Would be pretty stupid to do that and come back after a week or so to find a site or sites flattened by a collapse.
Am reckoning on 4 weeks to harvest so the buds that are there should DOUBLE in size. Will now be heading out with a microscope to check trich's and keep an eye on things. Will be watering with only black treacle. Possibly 2 or 3 more feeds of water and black treacle from now till the end.
Am reckoning on 4 weeks to harvest so the buds that are there should DOUBLE in size. Will now be heading out with a microscope to check trich's and keep an eye on things. Will be watering with only black treacle. Possibly 2 or 3 more feeds of water and black treacle from now till the end.
Hope the work you've done helps the plants get through to harvest bud.
- Thread starter
- #139
Well i may have over-estimated what i would pull and even at the start i wasnt being too over-optomistic at what i would get. I reckoned an oz per plant but now not so sure. The 1st site looks like i may get an oz between the 5 plants but we will see. The other 2 sites i reckon around 8oz between 10 plants. The bombs are thick with buds but not too tall in height. The rrf's are a bit taller but sparse with buds. They should fill out nicely though over the next few weeks. Am hoping for a bumper crop of sunshine to help them grow.
- Thread starter
- #140
1st pic is the budrot under main cola on a rrf. The next 2 are pics of 1 of the bombs. Think it supposed to be that colour but not sure. Will know more when i chop. Gonna chop on sun unless you guys advise otherwise.
