OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
They look healthy to me!
Boo municipal water.
I'm not a fan of someone playing with my drinking water.
Plants will be happy as long as the pH range is appropriate. I use well water 8.5ph most of the time. I didn't notice big issues until last year. I kept chasing my tail with deficiencies. Probably cause of lockout. But I did have some plants that didn't slip a beat on high ph. Now I pH down that shit, 6.3-6.5ph
The meters I've purchased are crap. I triple check once a week meter-drops-strips, set my amount of pH down for watering.
Our dugout water which we use as tap water has a pH of 8+ and runs around 300 - 400ppm depending on season. In the spring when it gets diluted with fresh snow melt which like rain is slightly acidic but very low ppm it will still be well over pH7 and the lower end in hardness.
When you use an acid to lower the pH of you hard water you do bring the pH down but all the minerals that made the pH high are still in that water you give your plants. Your plants can't use all those extra mineral salts so they remain in the soil and each time you water the mineral salts build up.
Think of that crust that builds up inside kettles, coffee makers or even in the water heater for your house. That same thing, albeit on a smaller scale, is happening in the root zone your plants draw their nourishment from.
That leads to imbalances and lockouts. Can even lead to toxic salts buildup that gets stored in leaves and causes plants to start developing hard, crusty fan leaves that basically burn all over rather than along the edges first like classic nutrient burn.
We water the garden with our dugout water but out there rain and snow melt wash those extra minerals out of the root zone so doesn't really allow for buildup. We dilute tap water half and half with RO water for the wife's raised beds in the greenhouse for her tomatoes and peppers so that soil doesn't get overloaded with mineral salts.
There's more than just pH to consider.