Gelato & Super Lemon & Gorilla Glue, Feminized

I have Jakes and I also have Bug B Gone. I am in the throws on my take down. Will they be in the flower? Will will come out if they are drying?
 
YUPPERS! well frig.... That sounds so gross. Will it affect the flower if I don't see them on the ones I'm taking down? I can just take them down right?
 
This is how to get rid of them. They hatch every 3 days. So you have to break the cycle. Really simple as that. But it's not simple to get done because it's difficult to spray every single part of every single branch. First thing I did was cut back all my plants. Less mass to spray
 
You just caught them early, iso alcohol mixed with water 1:9 will kill them too. Alternate between 2 or 3 different products every 3 days.
 
I was going to link to this page but they've added so much ads lately it's useess, so it's a long post but worth the read to understand the cycle and the pest. Not all of it is relevant but it will give you some options to add to what Penny and Dank have mentioned already.

SPIDER MITES
Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.

Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.

Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.

Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.


Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.

Life Cycle
Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.

After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.

Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial. (Watch any fans you have on so you don't spread them to your other plants)

Damage
Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.

The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:

  • On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
  • On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
  • On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
How to Control
Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.
  1. Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
  2. Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
  3. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
  4. Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
  5. BotaniGard ES is a highly effective biological insecticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains! Weekly applications can prevent insect population explosions and provide protection equal to or better than conventional chemical pesticides.
  6. Mix Pure Neem Oil(use caution using NEEM and not during flower) with Coco-Wet and apply every 3-5 days to kill pest eggs indoors and interrupt the reproductive cycle. Make sure to spray all plant parts, including the undersides of leaves. Do NOT apply when temperatures exceed 90˚F and wait at last six hours before turning lights on.
  7. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
  8. Insecticidal soap or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
  9. On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
  10. Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
  11. Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.
Tip: Just targeting the adults will do little good if eggs and larvae survive. Repeat treatments are almost always necessary. The use of leaf shines and washes helps control and prevent further infestations.
 
When I had them I was trying to figure out how I got them. I don't let anyone in my grows. After some reading I found out the are on lots of different trees, bushes, flowers. I was shocked at all the different outdoor plants and trees they live on.

Unless it's frozen winter. I take a shower or at least put clean clothes on before entering my tents. Sounds crazy but it's just biosecurity or at least piece of mind for me
 
MrSauga said:
I was going to link to this page but they've added so much ads lately it's useess, so it's a long post but worth the read to understand the cycle and the pest. Not all of it is relevant but it will give you some options to add to what Penny and Dank have mentioned already.

SPIDER MITES
Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.

Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.

Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.

Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.


Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.

Life Cycle
Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.

After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.

Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial. (Watch any fans you have on so you don't spread them to your other plants)

Damage
Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.

The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:

  • On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
  • On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
  • On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
How to Control
Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.
  1. Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
  2. Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
  3. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
  4. Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
  5. BotaniGard ES is a highly effective biological insecticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains! Weekly applications can prevent insect population explosions and provide protection equal to or better than conventional chemical pesticides.
  6. Mix Pure Neem Oil(use caution using NEEM and not during flower) with Coco-Wet and apply every 3-5 days to kill pest eggs indoors and interrupt the reproductive cycle. Make sure to spray all plant parts, including the undersides of leaves. Do NOT apply when temperatures exceed 90˚F and wait at last six hours before turning lights on.
  7. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
  8. Insecticidal soap or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
  9. On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
  10. Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
  11. Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.
Tip: Just targeting the adults will do little good if eggs and larvae survive. Repeat treatments are almost always necessary. The use of leaf shines and washes helps control and prevent further infestations.
Click to expand...

WOW Thanks Mr S

I guess I may have brought them inside but I always work in the garden first thing in the morning because my lights are on then. I have been gardening outside, mixing soils and seeds etc... but that is always after lights out. All I can say is I hate gnats, but spider mites...omg just the thought of these tiny little bugs could be me, now I am scratching and my mind is playing games. I hate spiders right up there along side, heights, electricity, and phlegm even the word sounds disgusting. So I have no love and want the hardest hitting crap out there without hurting my flower. When I saw the spots on the first plant I pulled to the side then watched it then looked at the plants closest to it and they had spots too as if the were dusted with pollen. No pollen just using that example. So I went and got my magnifier and saw white and black spots. The black ones were usually larger and you could see it moving and the sick sucker I swear was waving at me. Game on!

@MrSauga what would you use. I am so afraid it will spread to the rest of the room, or rooms.
 
Happy belated 420 momma K!!

sorry to hear about those damn spider mites!!
 
Momma’s Kitchen said:
@MrSauga what would you use. I am so afraid it will spread to the rest of the room, or rooms.
Click to expand...
I would go with what Dank and Penny suggested. But you have to keep hitting them and you need to kill the cycle as they mentioned.
Alcohol mix that Penny mentioned should work. If you have a large bath you can hose them down in the shower as I've heard others do that too. Pretty stressful on the plant I would think.
 
Okay Thanks everyone. I blasted them yesterday with Bug Be Gone. I will try to find some alcohol, couldn't find it yesterday. I haven't gone in there yet. I thought I would come write my feedings...
Dankman_420 said:
I'd take them down. Just look them over. They may not be infested yet
Click to expand...
I have been taking them down and those seem un effected thank god. It is only the shivas and 5 plants at best. the one in the centre and then the 4 that surrounded it. Even then it was very slightly noticeable bite marks however when I used my scope they were thriving. I will keep you posted....
 
Bud Room
Date: 4.20.20
Serving: 30.5g MC/5gal
Serving fluid amount per plant: 2L
Pot Size: 3 gal
RH: 39
Temp: 24
Stage: Late Bloom
Additives/Medicine: Bug Be Gone
Pest: Spider Mites
 
They responded very well to the dose. I have taken down the GG and G. I am so amazed at the quality and size of the bud. I was taken back by how well Mega Crop is. I only wish I could buy more somewhere....
 
Bud Room
Date: 4.20.20
Serving: 26.75g & 27.00g MC/5gal
Serving fluid amount per plant: 2L
Pot Size: 3 gal
RH: 39
Temp: 24
Stage: Middle Bloom
Additives/Medicine: Bug Be Gone
Pests: Spider Mites
 
Veg Room
Date: 4.20.20
Serving: 20g MC/5gal
Serving fluid amount per plant: 1 solo
Pot Size: 1 gal
RH: 40
Temp: 24
Stage: Early Veg
Additives/Medicine: Bug Be Gone
Pests: Spider Mites

I have noted in another journal that there are no mites in the veg room although I have sprayed for them in there just incase. It's a matter of time... I pray I'm wrong. I sprayed all plants thoroughly, took most my day but it's done. I will repeat tomorrow. I am still in the throws of my take down and will move alot of 3 gallon into bud to make some room.
 

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