Jon's Dedicated Fruity Pebble Cookies Grow Plus The Mystery Plant

Cleaning/Organization Day for Gorillatown

About every three days or so I try to completely clean out the floor of the tent and the sides of the pots and such. It takes bending way over in a variety of positions from the chair and aiming the business end of a shop vac, so it's kind of a pain in the ass. But it does give me the opportunity to completely open the front doors, as I have to in order to get to all sides with the shop vac. Note: when I run the shop vac I unplug the AC unit for those few minutes and run the power from that cord. Every time I run the shop vac on the same circuit as the AC unit it blows (15 amp circuit). I guess shop vacs draw a lot of juice.

So while we had her open we took a few pictures (go figure).

Here's the whole tent as seen from the front door.

Here's a shot of what's going on downstairs.

This is about 2/3 of Elora.

And this is a picture of an emerging bud on a Fulvia branch.
 
Mother Nature's Canopy Work. Meh.....it's okay.....I thought this chick was supposed to be some extreme expert or something...

Twice in two days. Apparently he lives here now and was not just passing through.
 
New Toy

Just pulled the trigger on a dehumidifier, we'll unveil it Friday when it comes. Someone I respect a lot helped me out with some solid "ideal choice parameters" today, gratefully. It is possible that I smell a distinctive @Rexer influence here, lol!! (thanks, Rex!!) Picked one that has a continuous drain tube, the ability to set to a desired, specific RH, and covers more cubic footage than I need. It's #16 of all reviewed home dehumidifiers on the Zon, which I thought was pretty high. Also comes with wheels and is small enough to easily fit on the floor of the 5x5 between pots. I'm determined to maintain around 35% RH for the last three weeks at least of flower. My little RH/Temp on a stick sits smack dab in the middle of the canopy almost at canopy level, and won't read below 60% or so no matter how much moving air I have going on. Some theorize that the amount of moving air in there is already adequate to negate this level of RH in flower and bud rot won't be an issue. That may or may not be true. What I KNOW is true, however, is that having the same insane amount of moving air WITH 35% RH will guarantee it is not an issue, or as close to a guarantee as I am capable of creating. I'm pretty sure this baby will get me there:

New toy Friday.jpg
 
New Toy

Just pulled the trigger on a dehumidifier, we'll unveil it Friday when it comes. Someone I respect a lot helped me out with some solid "ideal choice parameters" today, gratefully. It is possible that I smell a distinctive @Rexer influence here, lol!! (thanks, Rex!!) Picked one that has a continuous drain tube, the ability to set to a desired, specific RH, and covers more cubic footage than I need. It's #16 of all reviewed home dehumidifiers on the Zon, which I thought was pretty high. Also comes with wheels and is small enough to easily fit on the floor of the 5x5 between pots. I'm determined to maintain around 35% RH for the last three weeks at least of flower. My little RH/Temp on a stick sits smack dab in the middle of the canopy almost at canopy level, and won't read below 60% or so no matter how much moving air I have going on. Some theorize that the amount of moving air in there is already adequate to negate this level of RH in flower and bud rot won't be an issue. That may or may not be true. What I KNOW is true, however, is that having the same insane amount of moving air WITH 35% RH will guarantee it is not an issue, or as close to a guarantee as I am capable of creating. I'm pretty sure this baby will get me there:

New toy Friday.jpg
Don't worry, @Rexer, you gave me everything you got on this one, and I greatly appreciate your efforts on my behalf. If it ends up being a lemon I promise it's on me, not you. Lmao!!!

Edit: this post is due to Rex pointing out to me that this unit does not automatically restart itself after a power outage, which was quite on the ball and kind. Since I don't have them here due to hurricane technology we have on the house, I went ahead with it anyway, but he was awesome to catch that. :thanks:
 
Don't worry, @Rexer, you gave me everything you got on this one, and I greatly appreciate your efforts on my behalf. If it ends up being a lemon I promise it's on me, not you. Lmao!!!

Edit: this post is due to Rex pointing out to me that this unit does not automatically restart itself after a power outage, which was quite on the ball and kind. Since I don't have them here due to hurricane technology we have on the house, I went ahead with it anyway, but he was awesome to catch that. :thanks:
Glad to help!
Now your gonna be laughing at high RH, and have your environment dialed in an extra notch :thumb:

Try one grow where you drop that RH as low as possible in the last, or last two weeks.
 
Hmm..........

I was just reading a blog on LEDs I subscribe to from Fohse and read this statement:

In order for photosynthesis to work as efficiently as possible, leaf surface temperatures need to be within 85-88º Fahrenheit, the goldilocks zone for cannabis plants.

I have always thought 85 degrees was the warmest you ever wanted to let the leaf temps get and operated as such.

Here's the rest of the relevant passage:

While photosynthesis occurs throughout the plant, the areas with the most photosynthesis producing chloroplasts are the leaves of the plant, so any rise in leaf surface temperature beyond the goldilocks zone will result in the plant entering photorespiration, burning more carbon than it consumes.


So it would seem that 88 degrees is the absolute top leaf temperature you ever want. The article does not explain why the "goldilocks zone" is that narrow 85 to 88 degree range, and that's really what I want to know. If it is indeed so, then I need to reevaluate my chosen daytime temps.

Anyone have any input on this by chance? @Emilya, this may be up your alley?
 
Glad to help!
Now your gonna be laughing at high RH, and have your environment dialed in an extra notch :thumb:

Try one grow where you drop that RH as low as possible in the last, or last two weeks.
I'm going to on this grow!!! Thus the Immediacy of the purchase.
 
Hmm..........

I was just reading a blog on LEDs I subscribe to from Fohse and read this statement:

In order for photosynthesis to work as efficiently as possible, leaf surface temperatures need to be within 85-88º Fahrenheit, the goldilocks zone for cannabis plants.

I have always thought 85 degrees was the warmest you ever wanted to let the leaf temps get and operated as such.

Here's the rest of the relevant passage:

While photosynthesis occurs throughout the plant, the areas with the most photosynthesis producing chloroplasts are the leaves of the plant, so any rise in leaf surface temperature beyond the goldilocks zone will result in the plant entering photorespiration, burning more carbon than it consumes.

So it would seem that 88 degrees is the absolute top leaf temperature you ever want. The article does not explain why the "goldilocks zone" is that narrow 85 to 88 degree range, and that's really what I want to know. If it is indeed so, then I need to reevaluate my chosen daytime temps.

Anyone have any input on this by chance? @Emilya, this may be up your alley?
I love physics. Some study should be done on how much heat is generated right at the surface of the leaf simply because of the type of light hitting it, with photons being absorbed and annihilated and all. The temp at the surface isn't necessarily the ambient temp of the room, it would logically be higher in a well lit room. Then other factors come into play... how green is the green of the leaf, and how does that exact color affect the surface temp because of what it reflects and what it absorbs? I always heard that the best ambient temp for the room was 79F, and it is not hard to assume that the leaf temp in a hotly lit room could be 6-9 degrees higher. And then thinking about the efficiency and beauty of nature's designs, combined with what we know about VPD, could this higher temp at the leaf's surface in an ambient temp slightly lower, aid in the ability to evaporate water from the leaf, making transpiration even more efficient?
What is even more remarkable is that some brilliant researcher likely got a nice research grant to study this feat of nature so as to come up with a name for the process, and he called it goldilocks because of all the money it made him. As icing on the cake he also labeled this whole goldilocks thing as carbon negative, as a double heroic fist pump to academia everywhere. Makes me want to go hug a researcher. :love: :rofl:
 
Evening @Jon! How big is that unit and does it go in the tent? How many watts ? The RH here is consistently mid to low 30's all winter, but that's about to change soon to 70% ish. I've grown in that before and the plants seemed fine, I'd be just as interested in something like that for a drying room. I hate when they have to hang over a week to dry. Around here it goes from drying in 3 days to 7+, keeps you on your toes lol. Have a great night!
 
New Toy

Just pulled the trigger on a dehumidifier, we'll unveil it Friday when it comes. Someone I respect a lot helped me out with some solid "ideal choice parameters" today, gratefully. It is possible that I smell a distinctive @Rexer influence here, lol!! (thanks, Rex!!) Picked one that has a continuous drain tube, the ability to set to a desired, specific RH, and covers more cubic footage than I need. It's #16 of all reviewed home dehumidifiers on the Zon, which I thought was pretty high. Also comes with wheels and is small enough to easily fit on the floor of the 5x5 between pots. I'm determined to maintain around 35% RH for the last three weeks at least of flower. My little RH/Temp on a stick sits smack dab in the middle of the canopy almost at canopy level, and won't read below 60% or so no matter how much moving air I have going on. Some theorize that the amount of moving air in there is already adequate to negate this level of RH in flower and bud rot won't be an issue. That may or may not be true. What I KNOW is true, however, is that having the same insane amount of moving air WITH 35% RH will guarantee it is not an issue, or as close to a guarantee as I am capable of creating. I'm pretty sure this baby will get me there:

New toy Friday.jpg
Hi @Jon, I would also like to know what he asked you to do @BubbaKush909, I also wonder what you were choosing the dehumidifier? I have one small one and it is useless, as if there was none:D.
 
Hi @Jon, I would also like to know what he asked you to do @BubbaKush909, I also wonder what you were choosing the dehumidifier? I have one small one and it is useless, as if there was none:D.
Morning @BubbaKush909 and @Kanno26 - I haven't even gotten it yet, so I can't give you any direct reporting on it, but I can share with you the parameters and process I used to decide. Rexer helped me with these.

First I decided on a budget that was on the high side, due to Rexer's belief that when it comes to dehumidifiers, you get what you pay for. His thought echoed my own direct experience (and sounds like yours too Kanno) that those little $30-$40 ones that run on a tiny cord or batteries and you have to empty a small reservoir whenever it fills are complete garbage and do next to nothing. My budget was $150, $200 MAX. That's pricey I know. But in theory it would get me one that will last and work properly for a long time.

Next I identified the following features as must haves:

"Real" power cord, no batteries
Option to hook up drain line
Rated to cover more cubic footage than the volume of my tent by a decent margin
Sized to fit in the tent regardless of my chosen growing scenario
Possesses feature that allows you to set the unit to a chosen RH level and maintain it at that spot
Varying speeds/power levels
Clear and easy to read display that is easily covered for lights if necessary
Wheels
Well reviewed
Ideally!: feature that allows the unit to restart itself in case of a power outage when the power comes back on

Then I went digging. I looked at dozens of them, considering the scenarios that would have to be in play given the shape and size of the various units. I narrowed the list down to around four or five based on everything but the reviews. Then I checked the reviews for each and the ranking on the Zon in it's given category.

After all of that I showed you what I came up with.
The only compromise on my list was the auto-restart feature, but as we have the hurricane proofing infrastructure that makes power outages impossible, I wasn't too worried about that one, especially given that it came in underneath the bottom end of the budget (around $140).

I will install and begin running it when it arrives on Friday, and it will take no time at all to see if it works as advertised. Of course I will report on my results.

Hopefully that helps you guys out a little!
 
Tuesday Morning Picture

This is a closeup on the very top of Titan's two main colas. What's noteworthy is that we've now been at 100% power on the 420h for several days, and the very tippy top of the plant is showing no signs of pistil damage or burning whatsoever.

I love this light so much.

ttt.jpg
 
Zkittlez Auto
Day 41


I was feeling a bit ornery this morning, and since it's a beautiful, relatively windless day with just a slight breeze, I decided to give our girl one of her periodic days in natural sunlight. She is up on a chair both to Molly proof her and to raise my middle finger a little higher.

Here's a front and back view of right now.

Z front side view in the sun.jpg


Z back side view in the sun.jpg
 
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