New Grower Using a BCNL Producer

Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

It looks like mold or something! PLEASE HELP!


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Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

I wish i known what is wrong that looks hopeless my friend. It might be time to cut your loses and toss all them seed get some more. and try for round two;)

This was my first grow
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Check me now days
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Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

Setting Sun said:
when you say you soaked them in "PH balanced" water, do you mean water that you adjusted to neutral PH at 7.0, or water that was PH balanced down to bring the rockwool PH down?
Click to expand...

No. I mixed one gallon of Distilled water to 1 Tablespoon each of Dutch Master Grow A and B. Then i ph balanced the water to 6.2.
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

Your plants look fine man they are a little stretch out but with some careful staking like a wood scure just lean it up next to it until it hardens off. don't over water that also causes stretch in seedlings. I like to start mine under fluorescents and I put the bulbs 1" above the top of the plant....:welcome::cheer::ganjamon::ganjamon:
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

I've been following and watching....this would have been me if I hadn't been lucky enough to have read a bunch of stuff on germination.

You're in hydro....but the principles from this expert grower, Uncle Ben, apply in your situation as well: Namely NOT using a humidity dome and starting seeds under strong light.

Originally Posted by Uncle Ben
Germinating Cannabis Seeds (for Bio Growers)

Your seedlings will be alot better off if you germinate directly in soil - less handling and mechanical disturbance means less chance of physical damage to the plant's taproot (and roothairs) and less food reserves used to position itself due to the natural hormonal influence called Gravitropism - that spells seedling VIGOR.

This is my foolproof method for Cannabis Seed Germination in soil:

First, if harvesting seeds from my own crosses, I air-dry newly harvested seeds for a couple of weeks, and then store them in the refrigerator with a little rice. Cold-treatment seems to increase viability and germination rates, especially with indica-dom strains. I almost always get a 100% germination rate with quality seedstock.

Soak the seeds in plain water for at least 12 hours prior to planting to hydrate them, which will speed up germination. In general, good seeds will sink, bad seeds will remain floating (they contain air, not an embryo). I first sterilize seeds in a bleach solution (1 Tbsp. bleach/1 gallon of water) for 1/2 hour to kill any fungus residing on the seedcoat. Dump the sanitizing solution and top off your glass with clean water, you do not need to rinse those seeds.

Sterilize enough *damp* fine soil with heat to germinate all of your seeds. You can do this by treating the damp soil to temps of (no more than) 200F for 20 mins in a conventional oven, or in a microwave oven on high for 2 minutes, while stirring a couple of times, or pouring boiling water thru the mix. Your goal is to get and hold the entire soil mix's temperature at 170F to 180F for about 20 minutes which can be monitored with a probe type thermometer. Let the mix cool thoroughly. This will insure that damp-off fungus spores have been killed in the soil mix. Make sure the soil mix is light and humusy (not real coarse). You can add a little sand or vermiculite to aid in drainage and weight. Stay away from perlite, it has a nasty habit of floating out of the mix (if you do indeed need to water later).

Buy some white 20oz styrofoam "drinking glasses", commonly called "Styro-Cups", and punch holes in the bottom (and side bottom) for drainage. I use a red-hot ice pick for this. These containers are 6 1/2" tall and will allow ample room for the taproot to grow before cotyledon emergence which will increase your seedling's vigor. The taproot (radicle) is already at least 4" long at the point of emergence - don't restrict it in order to maximize seedling growth rate. Styro-Cups can be found on the shelf displaying picnic items at your local grocery store.

Fill the pots almost to the top with your soil mix, water well to settle the mix, take a pencil and make a small hole about 1/4" to 1/2" deep, NO deeper, and drop *one* seed in. Cover the seed with *fine* soil, only enough to top up the hole, firm lightly with your finger, and lightly water until water runs freely thru the drain holes. Place in a warm spot around 80F/26C. Do NOT cover the cup with saran wrap or anything else. The seed has been hydrated from the soaking and will germinate soon. This container should not require further watering until the seedling is up and running.

During the first couple of days, mist the top soil surface lightly if need be, never allowing the top to crust over, but not to the point that the medium stays waterlogged which will invite pythium rot. "Less is more" at this point. Do NOT water this pot any more until the seedling is up, and only if it needs it at the point of emergence and do NOT mist the seedling once it is up as you're inviting damp-off disease if you do. Again, no need to cover with plastic wrap as the radicle (taproot) will grow at least 4" before the cotyledons emerge from the soil. IOW, even though you can't see it, the plant's root is seeking and finding moisture at the container's lower soil levels. I cannot emphasize this enough. The seedling will emerge anywhere from 2 to 10 days from the time you sow it.

That's all to it! With good care, your faves will be ready to transplant within 1 to 2 weeks, and will easily slip out of the "cup" with a solid rootball that will never know it's been disturbed if potted up gently and quickly. Move up to a final pot of 3 to 5 gallons to sex and finish.

An effective transplant solution can be made using (no more than) 1 level teaspoon of a 15-30-15 fert and 10 drops of Superthrive per gallon of water. Take note regarding the immediate growth spurt after this upcan!

Good luck,
Uncle Ben
Click to expand...

If I were you, I'd start another set of seeds in PH'd rockwool, well wetted, and then leave them alone. You could also try Root Riot or Rapid Rooter. Once the roots are showing, put 'em hydroton in the DWC. I also have a producer, and do not like the large rockwool squares they want you to grow in. I think you'll find the good growers on this site like hydroton.

While the new seeds are getting started, try to keep the old ones alive.

Oh, one more thing. I was under the impression that rockwool must be conditioned in PH 5.4 water. 5.6? I don't use the stuff, but I got a ton of it with my producer and remember reading something about that.

One thing for sure, if you keep the seedlings too damp, they get sick and die. Get a bright lite on 'em, don't over water, and you'll be fine.
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

Oldgrowerdude said:
Your plants look fine man they are a little stretch out but with some careful staking like a wood scure just lean it up next to it until it hardens off. don't over water that also causes stretch in seedlings. I like to start mine under fluorescents and I put the bulbs 1" above the top of the plant....:welcome::cheer::ganjamon::ganjamon:
Click to expand...

I am such a newbie to this! Thanks for your advice. So you are saying they are fine? As you can see, alot of other people say its doomsday for my plants! ANd how would I stake them? Wood Scure? never heard of that. :thanks:
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

NewGrower1 said:
I am such a newbie to this! Thanks for your advice. So you are saying they are fine? As you can see, alot of other people say its doomsday for my plants! ANd how would I stake them? Wood Scure? never heard of that. :thanks:
Click to expand...

I'm not sure OGD saw the latest pics...

First I'm not a big fan of rockwool. I would go with a SureTo grow 1.5 inch start cube or rapid rooters. When roots show transplant to hydroton in the net cups.. I do beleive the producer uses net cups right?

Your issues here could be from a number of things.

Over soaked RW could lead to root rot and the plants will no longer take up water or nutes and will shrivel and die.

Bad pH, can cause nute lockout or even pull nutes out of the plant if off by too much.

Your seedling were badly stretched out. They need to be lifted way closer to the light. Within inches if its a CFL style light.

Rock-wool has no nutes in it. Within the the first signs of sprouting you should have been using a very light veg/rooting mixture.

Unfortunately I would just do some more research and start over. Most of your plants wont make it and the ones that may, could end up male or hermie.

Sorry mate
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

NewGrower1 said:
I am such a newbie to this! Thanks for your advice. So you are saying they are fine? As you can see, alot of other people say its doomsday for my plants! ANd how would I stake them? Wood Scure? never heard of that. :thanks:
Click to expand...

The later picture are not good they are past the point of no return...as long as ther some green on top I woudent pitch them yet.....sorry
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

NewGrower1 said:
Where do you think I went wrong at? I really need to know so that I dont make the same mistake twice.
Click to expand...

I believe in borrowing the wheel....not re-inventing it.
There are several growers who do hydro from seed on the forum. Go to their journals and study how they germinate, feed and transplant.

From what I've been able to read and learn, if I ever do a hydro grow that uses net cups and such, I'll germ in Root Riot and put them in hydroton as soon as roots show.

Also, seedlings need light. Place the tray of germinating seedlings on that little shelf, inside the producer, and have the bright 250 watt CFL turned on, right above them.

Then, as soon as you see roots, put 'em in the cups and run the MH's.

Clones use a humidity dome, seedlings should not.....bad things happen when a seedling is too damp.

If you're going to use rockwool, soak it in PH 5.5 water for 24 hours, dip it in a very weak nute solution and give it a good shake to get the water out before you plant the seeds.

They shouldn't need much, if any water till the roots show. If they do, use an eyedropper and a weak nute solution to moisten them.
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

Setting Sun said:
Keep your chin up, this kind of stuff happens to all of us when we first begin growing.

The stuff from Uncle Ben on germination that doc posted up above is *excellent*.
Click to expand...

Thanks Setting Sun for the support. It has been a tough day but I'm starting to overcome! I will not let the plants defeat me! :thanks:
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

NewGrower1 said:
Thanks Setting Sun for the support. It has been a tough day but I'm starting to overcome! I will not let the plants defeat me! :thanks:
Click to expand...

that's the spirit! You'll bounce back and do fine!
The first time you smoke your very own, handcrafted weed will be a great day! It's gonna happen sooner than you think.

Try a non-rockwool medium and give it a go. Post your strategy here, before you start, and let some of these guys scope it out. You will NOT fail with a little planning.
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

Dude im really sorry for your girls getting all moldy... I really dont know why that happened ......Just keep trying and look at other journals in here that have the same type of grow you have going and see how they do it...good luck i'll be checking in from time to time...
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

New Grower1, My first grow was about 100 bagseeds. At the end there was 19. Strength in numbers I guess. Don't hang your head, we all have been there. If you have any doubts about what your doing, follow someone else grow all they way thru. Play the mimick. 1 under your belt, one notch in your grow light and you'll soar with eagles. Luv bro! :peace:
 
Re: New Grower that is using a BCNL Producer

scrap these plants. they look terrible. I think you need to retry on a smaller scale to save some seeds.

First off don't waste the large rockwool cubes on seed starting. You should take a single rockwool plug 1.5" x 1.5" x 2" approx size and follow these instructions;

1.) put some tap water in a shot glass
2.) drop in 1 seed
3.) wait 12 hours
4.) drop the seed into the dry rockwool/grodan starter plug
NOTE: if you smoke cigarettes, wear a latex glove whenever handling a seed or clone. nicotine will dmage these plants.
5.) water the rockwool/grodan plug until thoroughly saturated
6.) place the grodan cube in a warm place with no dome and put a ingle cfl 12 inches above the plant. Light should remain on 24/7
7.) wait 4 days
8.) water the grodan cube
9.) when the seedling sprouts the second and third set of fan leaves (first set are tear drop shaped sun leaves) place the rockwool plug in the larger rockwool cube and add your drip line
10.) place the plant under 24/7 HID or CFL lighting with a minium 2500+ lumens/sqft

From looking at your photos, something is terribly wrong with your setup. All these plants died hideously. You should step back and master sprouting a single seed before you attempt to try multiple seeds. It may take you a few tries but if you follow the above instructions, you should be fairly succesful. At no time before you move them to the larger grow cube, should you use any nutrients at all. ZERO. When the seedlings move into the main grow setup, you should only add 1/4 to 1/2 strength nutes for the first week.

I urge you to try this with 1 or 2 seeds and really master it before trying to attempt a full grow. Cheers, RM
 

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