Perfect Sun 1000 Basement Grow - First Timer Welcomes Guidance

[CatnipTC]

Subbed up Looking good! Nice light

~HP

I truly appreciate the Visit

I love the light so much I'm going to get another one ASAP. Hopefully a 6module ver. of the perfect sun 1000 I sound like a walking commercial but this isnt even a sponsored thread but this light is the Shiznitz if you in the Market for one. Light will pay for itself with the first grown alone if you follow neils instructions and put it on a mover

 

[mouser]

Looking good in there! Ive heard nothing but good things about that light. If I had the room Id be seriousy interested. I'll leave the auto questions to those with more experiance than I...my brief encounter with autos was somewhat less than stellar. Gonna stick with photos for a while, but maybe I can pick up some tips here if I ever want to start using all thse Auto seeds I have.

 

[thebeast27]

Mouser autos are awsome get some planted mate

 

[CatnipTC]

Mouser autos are awsome get some planted mate

I'm still a little iffy on Auto's the auto Lemon was my first. My next grow is going to be all auto's so I'll have a better feel for them. I'm iffy so far cause all my Photo's seem like they will be producing some fat nuggs. The autos dont have a many Pistols showing

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

My best yields with autos is under 18/6 their whole life.

But so far, no auto matches the lab results of regulars that I've grown. And people at dispensaries really care about those stupid numbers.

 

[CatnipTC]

Okay I think I have a problem!!!! I go into the garden today and notice two plants with some type of fungus on them. I've Removed both of them from the Garden so it doesnt spread to the other plants. I've seen Budrott before but it didnt look like this. It's whitish Gray kinda look like ashes. Help!!!!!!!!!! anybody know what this is? Hope its not going to ruin my harvest

So Far it's only on one of the outsiders and One of the Atomics All the rest of the plants seem to be clear so far It's only on the leaves an not on the buds. should I defoil all the leaves with the fungus on it?

 

[AKgramma]

I always remove diseased leaves. Don't want any crud spreading among my ladies!

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like powdery mildew. The crap is systemic and super hard to get rid of completely from your room once it is there, which is now. Spores everywhere.

I find burning sulfur works really well. Just be sure if you burn sulfur, not to do it if you have sprayed with any oil based spray, such as Organicide, which works great at controlling PM.

Spraying milk or water with PH UP in it works okay at controlling PM.

Burning Sulfur in my experience works the best.

I recommend using a wet clothe with soapy water on the leaves with the powder on it.

 

[thebeast27]

I had this powdery mildew a few week back on my leafs.i used organic apple cider viger and water and it worked a treat

 

[CatnipTC]

I had this powdery mildew a few week back on my leafs.i used organic apple cider viger and water and it worked a treat

I will give that a Try and Thanks so much for the info

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Thebeasts, keep an eye on them. PM is systemic, so unless the environment keeps it away, it will start to come back in like two weeks because vinegar doesn't kill it. It changes the PH of the leaves making it harder to grow.

Then after the grow, you have to bleach the hell out of the room because the spores stick around and infect new plants.

I would rather deal with spidermites any day over PM.

 

[dr.h00k]

By Joe Lamp'l...

...Judging from the number of questions I get every summer about the plant fungus known as powdery mildew, I’ve learned three things over the years; it’s everywhere, you don’t like it and you want to know how to get rid of it. So, here’s what you need to know to prevent, control and even eliminate it after it appears.

You’re not alone

Powdery mildew is one of the most widespread and easily identifiable plant fungal diseases. From vegetable gardens to rose gardens, ornamental trees and shrubs, almost no type of plant is immune.

If you find that some of your plants or trees have powdery mildew, don’t worry. This fungus is host specific, meaning just because you find it on one plant species, does not make it a threat to other type plants in your landscape. Although there are many different species of powdery mildew, the symptoms all look about the same from one to another.

What to look for

You’ve likely seen it many times. White or gray powdery spots appear, often times covering most if not the entire leaf surface. It’s also found on plant stems, flowers and even fruit. Fortunately, the symptoms of powdery mildew are usually worse than the actual damage. Rarely is it fatal to the plant.

Advanced stages can cause plant foliage to yellow, curl or turn brown and eventually cause the plant to defoliate prematurely. On flowering plants and trees, the fungus can lead to early bud drop or reduce the flower quality.

So Now What?

Conditions that favor mildew formation include dry foliage, high humidity, low light and moderate temperatures. Proactive steps to avoid or minimize this risk include:

· Look for disease resistant varieties. Contact your local county extension service for named varieties and cultivars.

· Provide adequate air circulation by not crowding plants.

· Site plants where they will get sufficient light of six hours or more each day. Minimize shade and trim trees and shrubs that block the light.

· Avoid over fertilization. New growth is more susceptible. Instead, apply a slow-release fertilizer that provides more controlled growth.

Controlling an existing problem

Should you find the need to react to an existing condition of powdery mildew, early detection provides the best way to contain and potentially eliminate the problem. There are many commercial products that are effective at containing the spread. However, eliminating an existing problem is not a given.

Most conventional products are made for prevention and control, not elimination of an existing infection. That’s why it’s important to start a control program before powdery mildew occurs or at least at the earliest sign of detection.

There are many retail, off-the-shelf fungicide products that are effective at treating mildew. One of the most common active ingredients used for control is “chlorothalonil”. Although effective, it coats the leaf surface with a white milky film that is quite noticeable.

Lesser know options include:

Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) -This is possibly the best known of the home-made, organic solutions for powdery mildew. Although studies indicate that baking soda alone is not all that effective, when combined with horticultural grade or dormant oil and liquid soap, efficacy is very good if applied in the early stages or before an outbreak occurs.

Use this recipe to make your own solution—mix one tablespoon of baking soda with a teaspoon of dormant oil and one teaspoon of insecticidal or liquid soap (not detergent) to a gallon of water. Spray on plants every one to two weeks.

Potassium bicarbonate– Similar to baking soda, this has the unique advantage of actually eliminating powdery mildew once it’s there. Potassium bicarbonate is a contact fungicide which kills the powdery mildew spores quickly. In addition, it’s approved for use in organic growing.

Mouthwash – If it can kill the germs in your mouth, certainly the fungal spores of powdery mildew are no match. And that’s the premise. Generic, ethanol based mouthwash can be very effective at control. Tests using one part mouthwash to three parts water worked for well for Jeff Gillman, Ph.D and Associate Professor at the University of Minnesota, Department of Horticulture. Just be careful when mixing and applying mouthwash as new foliage can be damaged.

Vinegar – Similar to mouthwash, the acetic acid of vinegar can control powdery mildew. A mixture of 2-3 tablespoons of common apple cider vinegar, containing 5% acetic acid mixed with a gallon of water does job. However, too much vinegar can burn plants but at the same time, higher concentrations (above 5%) are more effective.

Sulfur and Lime/Sulfur – Direct contact by sulfur prevents disease spores from developing. When mixed with hydrated lime, the solution will penetrate leaves for even greater effectiveness. A widely available version of this combination includes copper sulphate and hydrated lime, known as Bordeaux mix. However, all of these solutions can burn plant tissue and is damaging to microorganisms in the soil and harmful to beneficial insects. It is also considered moderately toxic to mammals and humans. Use sparingly and with caution if at all.

Milk – The latest player in the fight against powdery mildew is milk. It’s not clear yet why it works so well, but it is believed that naturally occurring compounds in the milk are at work to combat the disease while also boosting the plant’s immune system. One experiment showed good results by applying a weekly dose of one part milk to two parts water.

Water – Ironically, dry conditions and high humidity are the most favorable conditions for powdery mildew to form. But straight water is its enemy because it washes off the spores before they have time to embed. However, water isn’t something that I promote for control because wet foliage is friend to many other plant diseases. If you’re going to try this option, do so early in the day so foliage has time to dry out quickly.

Neem oil – This is a readily available organic option to disease and pest control. Neem oil is extracted from the neem tree, native to India. This is an effective disease control and a broad spectrum, natural insecticide that is kinder to beneficial insects and mammals. As for controlling powdery mildew, results vary but it is not the best option. Results are usually moderate at best.

Even with many choices for control, prevention is still the best medicine, not only with powdery mildew, but with other diseases as well...


...Good Luck...h00k...

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Catnip, I should have a 5 panel ready for you in about 3 weeks. Worst case is you don't buy it and I grow with it.

 

[CatnipTC]

Catnip, I should have a 5 panel ready for you in about 3 weeks. Worst case is you don't buy it and I grow with it.

Pretty Sure We are going to go all out and get the 6panel

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

I'm not sure if I am going to build the 6 panel version. It will use about 800w and only cover the 4 width with a bit more par than the 5 panel, which only uses 675w.

Also, it will cost even more in shipping for the 6 panel, thus raising the price more, but if you or someone wants to pay for it before hand, and are willing to wait 3 weeks or so, I can do it.

It will be like $1300.

I personal think watt for watt, 5 panels is the way to go, though, and of course the 1000

 

[CatnipTC]

White widow clone from the burnt mother. She is now taller then mom. Not many branches on her though

 

[CatnipTC]

Incredible Bulks

 

[CatnipTC]

Devils Cremes

 

[CatnipTC]

white Widow/Big Bud

 

[CatnipTC]

another incredible Bulk